Thanks Charles! I'm glad it helped!

@@farmboy30117 I could use help on same issue same engine.

Try gettng aaa roadside. 5 free tows every year

hi i had replaced the clips that go to the distributor.my truck would start with starter fluid but now it doesn’t can it be the coil?

​@@559Obsalexsame here with my caprice. How did you resolve it?

So my issue is the tachometer wire, how did you fix the issue permanently. I would love have operating tachometer as well lol

Thanks, I'm glad it helped!

farmboy30117 what if the car runs ok but i keept that black / tan wire unpluged what will happe ? thanks man hope u replay to me

farmboy30117 what if no spark still after distributor changed .igintion module. The pink wire is getting no power whatsoever

My husband has 98 Sierra he has changed everything,hoping this is his problem...will turn over but won't fire...we had no clue about an ecm,until this web search,hes outside ride now hunting down that black tan wire,trying to do what you said for retiming... praying it works..thanks alot for the video

@@mikeanderson1994lol lll

Awesome! Glad it helped :)

How did you set the timing

So u unhooked the ICM witch is the PCM correct.... And u left it unplugged

Yeah, that's pretty common. Glad it helped!

@@farmboy30117 every morning i have no spark and have to replace my pickup coil. Any idea on what to test

This could also be caused by a bad pickup coil in the distributor. I believe autozone can test the ICM but don’t buy one there. Get it from a higher quality supplier like NAPA.

Thanks, you too!

And yes this ain't a 454 but it's the same, and helped me figure out the issue on my 454

It's possible that something is bad on the shaft, but not too common.

You you can do what ever you want to it. You can run coil on plugs all the way to a stand alone ecm. Just takes a lot of money

Will it fire on starting fluid?

Haha, well I do agree that the ICM is a finicky module and it does not like heat at all. Don't buy a cheap one either or it will not last long. I doubt OEM modules even exist nowadays though :(

It should still crank with the ICM before swapping to the ECM. The brown wire connects the ECM to the distributor. The only time you should have to disconnect the brown wire is to do the initial timing.

@@farmboy30117 ok, well i think its my distributor and rotor, what a ding dong i didn't check for spark first and just did and there's nothing. thanks

What was setting the code 42?

Did you ever figure it out

Sounds like it isn't getting a ground signal from the computer. Might be a bad connection, wire, or PCM.

solid angel the ignition module can go bad to where it still has spark but doesn't send a signal to the ecm telling it to power the injectors.

solid angel did u find out whats wrong ? i have same issue. lots of new parts pump. injectors. distr. n ign. all of a sudden i crank and no spray whats going on?

Your problem is the computer

I'm glad it helped!

Sounds like it's fuel related. When it fired up on starter fluid, did it run ok? Try cycling the key 3-4 times to prime up the system. Make sure the oil pressure gauge is showing pressure when cranking, a bad oil pressure sending unit could possibly quit sending power to the pump. I'd rule out the pump/wiring/relay before looking at the injectors.

My 88 does the same thing runs fine when cold but warms up it misfires under load and sometimes dies at idle

Well it's either going to be fuel or ignition related it sounds like. I assume it cranks right back up? Have you changed the fuel filter recently? No codes?

No, it will not crank.. Turns over and we smell fuel. Spark seems very weak.

When we use our spark tester (small tube put inline with the spark plugs), the spark is very dim. It is normally a bright blue color. We have replaced the entire distributor module and I swapped out the starter with a new one just for good measure because I have a lifetime warranty on all of the parts. It still will not start.. the only thing I think I can check for is to see if it has an ignition relay thats gone bad or the ignition switch itself is bad. Why would it have a weak spark?

matron81 did you find out what it was?

Thanks Luke!

Mine has spark but no pump on fuwl

Sounds like a wire with a bad spot that grounds out every now and then. Have to trace the power wires out and see if any are chaffed.

When you timed the distributor, did you unplug the wire so that the computer wouldn't effect the timing? Not sure, but it sounds more like a problem with the Idle Air controller.

No I didn't not unplug that thing. I had no idea about that plug until I watched this

There is a ground isolator I believe that is supposed to reduce ignition noise.

Impossible to diagnose over the internet. When it won't crank, check fuel and spark to see which one you don't have. That'll help narrow it down.

i have a 82 gmc and i get lights on dash when i turn the key on but i get nothing at all ytrying to start it

NCS on transmission or look under mate on driver's side you will see black tar tap under it is a fuse

Sounds like a bad/weak starter motor that won't crank after getting hot.

Glad it helped!

I've heard they are in different areas depending on the year.

Me too bro did you figure it out

@@Michael-wk4yo Pickup coil in distributor.

@@Michael-wk4yo Kind of funny this came up. Last few week, my pickup was running like crap. Getting crappy fuel mileage. Apparently I didn't put loctite on the distributor bolt when replaced the distributor. It backed out and slowly spun my distributor. If your pickup coil is bad and you replace your distributor, make sure you use loctite on that bolt! Good luck!

No, sorry. If it's not on the firewall, look around the PCM under the dash.

thanks man!! I've changed almost evreything and no go. your video helped me have a better understanding of the start up process.thanks again

glad it helped

Can you swap the connector from the good injector to the bad one and see if the injector works?

Will it crank right back up after it shuts off? If it does, it probably isn't the ignition control module. If it has to cool off, then I'd suspect the ICM.

Sounds like a fuel issue but very weird for a gas engine to act like this. No idea on this one.

@@farmboy30117 I noticed off or the key on no fuel comes out of the injectors. So guess I can start tracing and testing there

@@hangoversamuiadmin3163 Maybe start with the fuel pump relay

@@farmboy30117 Will do, thanks for the help

@@farmboy30117 Ok, so replaced the fuel pump relay, same issue, reset the computer and it was flashing code 21, read about it... cut a hole in the bed and replaced the fuel pump... not the problem... Its a long bed so was not able to lift it myself and I filled the tank like a day before this started... Today went and got a fuel filter and a new TPS... Replaced both of them and now it works fine, my code 21 is no longer there so guessing it was the TPS that caused the issue. I can honestly say after reseting the computer the idle is perfect now and it even seems to run better! Thanks for your help man very very much appreciated!

@Ricky definitely most likely cause of lean exhaust.

I wouldn't think the engine harness would be too bad. There's not a lot of sensors compared to later models.

Did u find out the problem same exact problem same truck

Replaced a lot of parts

I've never done a swap like that before, but is the HEI distributor computer controlled or vacuum advanced?

farmboy30117 The stock is an 8 pin controller, electronic controlled, and the new streetfire is a 4 pin, vacuum advanced. I just need a signal to pulse the injectors. Will the "B" bypass pin provide timing pulse to injectors?

I would contact MSD and see what they have to say. I have no idea.

I'm guessing, but it sounds like an issue with the Throttle body. Not getting enough air? Dirty? Injectors worn out?

Doesn't sound good. Loss of oil pressure sounds like a clearance issue. Maybe spun bearing? I'd definitely want to pull a couple of bearing caps off and look. Good luck.

Heat kills them more than anything. First though, always buy from a quality auto parts store like NAPA. Don't buy them from Autozone, I've seen multiple failures with those. Next, always use heat sink paste and make sure the heat sink is clean when installing.

I'd suspect something wrong in the ignition switch.

I had the same issue several years ago. It was the pickup coil but I just replaced the entire distributor. It was easier and cheaper than just the coil.

David, if you're sure it's not sparking, then it generally is something in the distributor (or coil) causing the issue. It does sound like a fuel issue to me. Did you use a good quality distributor when you replaced it? Some cheaper ones use crappy pickup coils. Funny that it starts after 10 minutes of cranking, usually ignition control modules go bad when they heat up from my experience. Good luck!

If it will not start with the wire unplugged, more than likely the ignition module is bad. I've seen it where the ignition module is bad when they're new. I think Autozone can test it, or they used to be able to test it. Don't buy one from Autozone or Advance Auto. NAPA is your best bet if it's bad.

@@farmboy30117 Thanks for you quick response. Since I wrote you, I set timing on TDC with EST plugged in and it ran smooth, I took it around the block and it even had a little more pep. How can the ignition modular be bad yet start and run so well? I put an AC Delco ignition modular from Rock Auto hoping it would be a good one to buy. Do you think it will hurt anything to run it like this?

@@gtuttle4 I probably misspoke about the ICM. I'm no expert on this. Here's a good video that explains how a GM bypass system works: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/la-am8xoxs-VeI0.html I'm not sure why it won't crank with the reference wire unplugged unless that's not the reference wire you're unplugging.

@@farmboy30117 Yeah, I just now found his video, I'm sure it's the EST plug, it has the tan and black wire plug, although the location of the EST was not where it was suppose to be for a '89. It's located on the firewall on the driver's side like a '87 model. Thanks for your help!

Always get the AC Delco ignition control module D1984A or D1943A I believe they are the same. And always use actual thermal heat sink paste and not that clear di electric grease. The aftermarket china made ignition control module are junk.

Knock sensor in front of starter

I know they went to a vortec 4.3L which had a balancing shaft in it. Not sure if it was '94 or '95 though, but I'm thinking it was '94.

A dirty throttle body would be my guess

Sounds like the timing is off. Unplug the wire from the PCM to the coil and set the initial timing with a timing light

Thanks I'll give it a try

I'm sorry it's the 4.3 V6

+Edwin Padilla You didn't mention a check engine light, so all the sensors are probably ok. Looks like you've ruled out the ignition system, so one thing to check is a clogged exhaust (usually the catalytic converter), too much back pressure can cause strange things. If that isn't the issue, I'd look at the fuel system and make sure your fuel pressure is adequate. Hope this helps and good luck.

I think initial timing should be around 8 degrees BTDC but it should be on a sticker under the hood.

Have a 94 Silverado 5.7 there are two sets of wires coming off the ignition coil. A pink wire then a white wire that are bigger in size that run into main wires, then a pink wire and a white wire that are smaller that plug into the distributor. The bigger wires I believe are the primary wires, my question is, should the pink wire (Primary) always be hot or have constant power to it? I used a test light and no power showing, but then I had my daughter crank the motor and it showed power? Have a no spark condition. Dist cap, rotor, ignition control module, and ignition coil are all brand new.

Duane, to be honest, there's a lot of things that can cause one not to crank. I'd recommend finding a local shop that you can trust to diagnose it. Some things are: low battery, bad starter, bad starter solenoid, bad ignition switch, broken wire, etc.

farmboy30117 return work. I never had a cavity till I went to a dentist

Sounds like the harness is fine. Can you rev the engine without it stumbling? This could be caused by several things that I can think of: weak ignition, weak fuel pump, PCM issues... Hard to tell from here. Good luck!

Thanks for the info!

cccalhoun

cccalhoun I have a 1994 GMC pickup two seater I think it's a Stepside and I have the same exact problem and I got everything and nothing is doing the trick. It'll drive for a few days as soon as I buy a new battery and then it just dies and I think that's the problem is the brown wire. But I don't understand what do you mean turn or go to the number one spark plug and 0 degrees? And also so you're saying I can go behind my glove compartment which I already found all those other relays and change them so I can find the brown wire there undo it then I could turn my car on and then turn it off find the one spark plug and do what how do you turn it through degrees what do you mean by 0 degrees I don't get it I really appreciate all this information I've been looking on KZfaq for 2 weeks and on the schematics and everything you can think of especially being broke

cccalhoun or is that too just set timing I still don't get it do I do all that first the bypass does starting point because my truck won't turn over are you saying unplug the brown one and my truck will start and then do it all over again for the timing can you give me a detail I know you don't know me I would appreciate it

So you probably have a fuel or ECM or Injector issue. (1) Without a fuel pressure tester, it is difficult to determine whether the fuel pump is producing adequate pressure. (2) The pink wires going to the injectors are coming from ECM1 Fuse (20 Amp) and should be hot in run or start on ignition key. Make sure you have power here with a test light or multi-meter. (3) The dark blue & dark green wires come from the ECM which provides a ground path (or ground side switched) to operate the injector solenoid. With no ground supplied from the ECM, there will probably be residual power on those wires. If you supply a ground to the blue or green wire, the injector would spray (assuming it has power from the fused wire and fuel pressure). It is difficult to see if the ECM is trying to operate the injector without a noid light or a special test light because it pulses so rapidly. (4) Check power and grounds at the ECM. You can do a Google Image search for "1995 Chevrolet Silverado wiring diagram" (AutoZone has a good one) that will show where to look for power and grounds to the ECM.

thanks merry Christmas I will do exact and get back to you from Hawaii Oahu aloha

I believe the white wire would go to a tachometer