You're welcome! Glad it helps.

Awesome!

Glad it helped Robert!

Nice!

farmboy30117 ;7

Did that work? The new relay?

What key?

I'd check the fuel line running from the filter to the injection pump first. If you have a leak in the supply line, the pump will draw in air and won't pump.

I have a good many on my other channel Farmboy's Garage. If you go to my channel page and view all videos, I believe you can search my videos with keywords like 1993 or Silverado.

Could be the throttle body needs cleaning. My trans shifts hard from 1-2 sometimes too. I'm not sure why but it seems to be ok otherwise.

It turned out to be the fuel pump relay. I got a bad one from autozone.

farmboy30117 That was my first choice. An easy way to check the relay on a Camaro is to swap it out with the fan relay on the other side under the hood. I replaced mine anyway. Not that expensive. Didn't work, put a new oil sending unit on car, that didn't work either. Same with my truck. Sounds like you got lucky.

Wow, sounds like you've eliminated the usual suspects. I believe your issue is electrical, but the wiring diagrams I've looked at seem a bit confusing. It appears there's a 5A crank fuse on the lower right hand corner of the fuse block on 5.0/5.7 engines. The wiring diagrams doesn't show this for 4.3/7.4 engines. On another diagram, it showed a 3A fusible link on the pink wire from the ignition switch to the ECM. I believe both of these are just for crank indication to the ECM. I'd take a test light and make sure I had power at the purple wire in the ignition switch harness with the key in the crank position. If not, you may have a bad ignition switch. If so, trace it on down to the neutral safety and so forth until you get to the starter solenoid. You may have a broken wire somewhere in the circuit. Good luck!

Toney Charles check the fuse block on firewall.

@ Toney Charles, that sounds like you have a bad distributor pickup coil, if you're running a hot wire to the starter solenoid to get your engine to stay running after starting it.

Haha, good luck with it! If there are no codes, check for fuel when cranking and then spark. Most of the time, as far as I've seen, it's either the fuel pump relay or a bad distributor.

Mine bumps sometimes too when accelerating or decelerating. I think it's the slip yoke in the transfer case. It could also be a bad CV in the front that could be causing some issues when turning.

+farmboy30117 yeah thanks man. I notice that top Mount on left tire arm that is most visible is worn too. I have the ext cab long bed. She's a boat but I love her. She needs to breath though. gotta get her opened up intake and dual out exhaust.

not on tbi engines you dont need 60psi need roughly 7psi

Electrical issues can be a real pain to sort out. You might want to check for a voltage drop between the battery positive post and the relay. Also between the battery ground post and the relay (ground) - this will only be active for a few seconds when the key is turned on. Bad grounds can cause all sorts of issues. I assume you're only getting the code but not an issue with the fuel pump.

Also i mine does not fire when i get oil pressure and did not start when i jumped the fuel pump not sure why it didnt start

Sounds like the Idle Air Control is not working properly. Here's a good place to start: www.wikihow.com/Check-an-Idle-Air-Control-Valve

Ben-David Armstrong Sounds like a bad starter solenoid. The solenoid pushes the drive gear out to engage the ring. You can verify by viewing the end of the starter while someone tries to crank it (or film it with a camera). If it doesn't come out, it's easier to just replace the starter since it has to be removed anyway to fix. Hope this helps.

thank you i think thats what did the trick!

That's great!

Could be the fuel pump, but first, unplug the brown wire and make sure the timing is set to factory spec. Should be on the emissions label on the radiator core support.

dont know if it matters either im getting no cel light

The CEL on these old trucks usually means something on the emissions side has failed, so I wouldn't expect it if its timing, spark or fuel related.

figured as much but im a jeep guy dabling with a chevy truck and its giving me fits

Saul, my best guess would be a vacuum leak.

Can u help me how to fix the vacuum leak

@@sauljuarez3941 Take it to a reputable shop

It means there are no codes set

I added a ground wire from lock ring on fuel tank to the frame and it fixed my problem. I drilled a 1/16 hole in the ear on the lock ring, then ran a small metal screw into hole in the lock ring ear and attached the wire with a crimp-on eye. Also, a faulty oil pressure sending unit behing the intake manifold will cause low voltage and or no voltage.

+david wilkins Yes, it was a faulty "new" fuel pump relay.

I'm sure you have a fuel pump relay somewhere, just not sure if it's in the same spot.

Yes, it should be the exact same way

+farmboy30117 that was a very informative video, thanks a lot!

Thanks, you're welcome!

Yes, it should work up to '95 models with OBD1.

It only Chevy

It was a faulty fuel pump relay. Bought a bad one from the auto parts store. Go figure!

12 is normal. It means there are no trouble codes.

@@farmboy30117 Man. Well that takes me back to the start cause my truck is not starting. Did the whole paperclip and its what it gave me :/

@@denisemoseley9662 These OBD1 vehicles usually only set a code if it was related to emissions or a sensor. Need to see if it's a firing or fuel issue.