Currently have this problem with my 99 s10. Thinking about grinding off the stud on the trans arm end and replacing it with a slim metal shaft I could then run a cotter pin through to secure it rather going through the hassle of replacing the cable.

I zip tied mine 6 years ago... use ty-wrap brand with the stainless lock. No problems.

Could be both actually. Even the aftermarket cables should have the adjustment tabs replicated to perform the procedure. I believe this is a common mistake nowadays, where shops are not familiar with these older trucks and their service procedure details anymore.

I can't go into 2nd or first but I can go thru all the other gears

Check that you have the cable aligned properly at both ends, and locked into position. If you can't downshift to 2 or 1, this sounds like either an incorrect cable for the vehicle model, or a misalignment.

Thanks. Can't control what ads KZfaq runs, but certainly depend on the ad revenue to help make doing these videos worth my time.

Where can I find the clip

Cable isn't that difficult it's a few screws and some clips not a big deal

When you say _"die cast shifter"_ are you referring to the shift lever that is part of the transmission? If so, this lever only mounts on one way, and it will correspond 1:1 in position to each gear P, R, N, D, etc.

@@DrShock Nope. The shifter assembly on the column. Easy to change, just out $100 thanks to my gorilla fingers.

Ah, ok. So no adjustment in reinstalling the shifter itself, but you want to get it into the matching positions at all three points. Start with "P"ark. Shifter in "P", transmission shift lever in park position, and then connect both ends of the shifter cable. One at the column (with no adjustment) and one at the transmission shift lever as I show. This latter one having the adjustment procedure I showed. Test and then lock it in with the small clip made into the cable as I show.

Some things to check. Is the transmission actuator arm installed on backwards? Is this the correct model/era transmission for this truck or has someone installed a later model/design? When you performed the cable adjustment, did you unlock the white nylon clip first and then relock it?

@@DrShock same era truck, same era trans, installed new cable, adjusted as video shows, same issue. Will only go down to 2 with column shift but can go under and nudge arm back and extra 1/2" and it will go into 1st and the dash will show 1st...shift back up to park and then back to 1st..stops at 2nd again...what's the deal??

I added a link in the description for the genuine GM manual. Out of print for years, but you can still find them on eBay.

@@DrShock Thanks.

Thanks. No, I can't say I've heard of that one before.

Presuming the transmission lever itself is in the correct _detent_ for Park before you start the adjustment, and that the cable is a genuine GM OEM one (some aftermarket ones just do not have good fitment), then I would make sure you have gotten the correct cable part number for your year and type of truck. These do vary across years. I could also suggest to recheck the steering column end of the assembly for both proper cable bushing seating, and the mechanism to the actual range selector lever being correctly aligned.

@@DrShock thank you for the advice! The OEM part was not on hand at the parts store, so I settled for the Pioneer brand, which is made in Colombia. I’ll double check the things you mentioned and try again.

Need a little more clarity as to what exactly broke. The bushing end of the shifter cable, or the steel ball it attaches onto at the column end? If the latter, the easiest repair would be a trip to the local LKQ and pull the rod assembly.

It's recommended to perform the repair with the transmission and shift lever both in the park position. You could move the transmission range selector lever manually into park, from below the vehicle, like I show in the testing part of the video. Technically, one could do it from the neutral position too if you had previous experience with this repair procedure. but it can be more difficult to ascertain that the transmission is in fact in that position. It's important because if it's out of position, the vehicle will not start due to the protection of the neutral safety switch mounted onto the side of the transmission which is keyed to the neutral position.

Thanks. So first I would disconnect the shift cable and determine if the range selector lever (this is the arm with the stud attached to the transmission) smoothly cycles thru all transmission gear positions. This test is to determine whether the binding is in the cable or the transmission itself. Each transmission selection on with the range selector arm will have a solid _detent_ tactile feel so that you know you are there. Just count from Park thru 1st and back. If that all works smoothly, then the problem is in the shift cable. Either the cable is mis adjusted, or internally damaged or the bushing at either end of the cable is damaged and not holding onto the attachment point securely. For this test you will need a helper, and want to observe both ends of the cable (fully connected as normal) cycle thru each gear shift position. You're watching for the stud coming loose from the nylon type bushing at the cable end(s). At some point you're going to be able to determine if the bushing at the cable end is shot and introducing play that prevents the shift, or you're going to see that the cable is internally damaged or out of adjustment.

There's only one aftermarket company that makes something like that for these year of trucks that's of high quality, there's a link in the description for it. But I've not tried that route personally.

@@DrShock got the parts for under $20at auto zone drilled out the cable side and popped the new part in all done.

It seams to me there should be a way to take the plastic apart on the transmission end and install a new bushing from Dorman, part #14055. I came here because I thought you'd show how it comes apart to put the new bushing in. That's all that is wrong with mine.

The nylon material in the bushing holds onto a metal ball stud. It has to rotate as the stud is attached to the shift lever which is angled. You would be better off trying one of the bushing replacement kits in the video description than a jerry rig.

It can get expensive throwing parts at a problem. I like to diagnose what specifically is causing the symptoms, before replacing that particular part only. Given what you've described, I would start with the shift cable like this video describes (tho your 2001 is a newer quite different design than shown here). I would make sure I can manually move the transmission shift lever into park, to confirm it's not a problem with the transmission itself (be sure to note and return the lever to the position you started with!). I would next check that the shift cable is not out of adjustment and both end bushings are securely attached, and performing the full range of travel necessary to cycle thru all of the gear positions (this is often the root cause for the symptom you describe). If the transmission will shift into the park position manually, then the problem is related to the shift cable not being able to travel far enough to reach that position.

It sounds like you're saying if you manually actuate the gear selection lever on the transmission itself, behavior is as expected. But if you action it via the gearshift lever on the steering column itself, there is failure to move from R to P correctly. If so this is a classic symptom of a problem with the shift cable, either the bushing at one or both ends has failed, or the cable itself internally, or both. You could visually observe this at the transmission end by having a helper work the gears as I showed in the testing portion of this video. Though it can also be a problem with the bushing at the other end of the cable, connecting on the steering column side.

I think you're referring to the metal "U" retainer that secures the cable at the 1:29 time index? If so that clip is needed to prevent the cable from moving out of position in the mounting bracket, which if it did it could cause it come off of at the transmission range select lever end. You'll need to replace that, there's a link with the GM part number for the U clip in the video description.

The cable can break inside the sheath, but the bushing at the steering column end is more likely, I would check there first. Regardless the cable would need to be replaced.

@@DrShock Thank you sir. I appreciate you taking the time to comment on these old videos. It really helps those of us who have recently purchased a GMT 400 vehicle.

If it's stuck and not unlocking, I would suggest some silicone spray to free it up. But removing it would most likely break the part.

That's a form of _delayed engagement_ which could stem from a number of causes internal to the automatic transmission itself. If it's the original transmission still on that 1995, long overdue for a rebuild.

Tip, if you cannot shift into Drive 2 or Drive 3 manually from the steering column , the cable is stretched and you're on borrowed time...

@@thomasbartlett3409 It shifts into Drive and through the forward gears just fine. Just delayed engagement when shifted to reverse and engages hard. 158k miles on it with orginal transmission.

@@DrShock are all cause the tranny? It is original tranny with 158k miles on the truck.

All causes of _delayed engagement_ are going to be inside the transmission. Based on what you've described, that's what I would suspect you have going on. Delayed engagement can be as simple as dirty ATF, or as bad as the reverse drum or band being worn out (and everything in between including just a bad seal). About all you can address without pulling it out is an ATF and filter change. You can sometimes get some more life out (for a delayed engagement to reverse ONLY) by replacing the reverse servo pin with a longer one. This can be done without removing the transmission from the engine, but will require removing the valve body to gain access.

You mention side to side motion, has the bushing popped off the stud? It's a common failure with the plastic/nylon material of the bushing.

Since the trans goes into park I wouldn't suspect the shift cable. On these OBS model years this video covers, the neutral safety switch also doubles as a gear position sensor to the instrument cluster. I would check out that device. It's either out of alignment (special tool required to adjust), or faulty.