I’m glad it is of some use to people. This was all rebuilt inside my apartment. Sadly it’s a little hard to find one of the most worn parts of the transmission, which is the 3rd gear shift fork which makes it hard to get into 3rd and 4th. I was lucky as I was one of the last few in the world to get a brand new OEM shift fork from Honda. I wish you best of luck on your project!

What breaks on yours? Mine has been going for 10 months so far and it works great after this rebuild. My 2nd gear went out due to the countershaft bearing walking out, 3rd and 4th was due to the shift fork wearing down.

@@CivicFiberglassDoor first I was breaking them flat shifting, synchro'd transmission just cant hold that at 400hp+. I stopped flat shifting but Inow 'm still constantly breaking 3rd gear. Hopefully though I won't be rebuilding transmissions anymore, have a dog box gear set on the way!

@@CivicFiberglassDoor company in my country agreed to develop the gear set back in 2022, unfortunately I'm still waiting. Not sure what to expect at the moment, they might never get around to finishing it

Not a god, I was just following the factor service manual, in video format.I am just someone that tries to make guides useful for others to follow. Its also entertainment.

25,000 miles on this so far and this transmission is still working great. Measuring the proper clearances with feeler gauges and the dial indicator gives solid peace of mind. My clearances worked out to be correct as it was put together, but if wrong, my measuring tools would have let me know so I could have corrected them.

I hope it helps you out. My transmission has 20,000 miles on it and its still going great. No problems at all. Making the video helped me learn to do it properly. At the time I thought it was required, but a press for this transmission isnt truly needed, just a nice-to-have. The shafts can be taken apart like this the following video link, or tap the tops with a mallet: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNeHdNSTt56UeH0.htmlm1s Remember that the clearances are very important, such as the differential and main shaft clearance. Buying a dial indicator and stand for the mainshaft clearance is relatively cheap and will save you much headache down the road. If you dont switch out gears, only synchros, you shouldn't have a problem with the main shaft but its still peace of mind to know its correct.

@@CivicFiberglassDoor Thanks for the advice buddy

At the time I couldn't find a video that went through all the clearances with the proper tools. The transmission built to factory spec has been going for 2 years so far with zero issues. If its built properly, it will serve you well.

What keeps happening to it?

@@CivicFiberglassDoor bent 2 1-2 shift forks then installed the 5th gear slider not aligned so it got stuck then reinstall one of the bent shift forks by mistake then got the fork welded with 2 gussets hopefully this one holds together. Lol. My d16 makes 502hp and I really drive it hard.

D16 with 500+ HP? Respect

I hope it helped! The rebuilt transmission is still going strong. Swapped at 293K miles, currently at 318K. It would have more but I bought another EK civic to use as a project car, so when that is not down, I drive it about half the time. Its going K-swap, but staying a sleeper. The most important part of the video is at 5:05

@@CivicFiberglassDoor thank you so much and I hope your projects go well. I will make sure to wear socks with sandals in the future!

@@BoostedPastimeGood choice. Its always preferable to look cool while taking a 25 year old transmission apart.

it could be the issue for those gears. The detent ball bearings with springs help make the gears "click" and stay in place. If that is the issue, holding the gear in place (such as holding the shifter with some pressure in gear and not let go) may make the gear work. 43:15 - Did you make sure to line up the interlock as well? Some people dont do this, install it, and bend the interlock. The interlock is shown at 8:25 and If you need to check the interlock, the transmission will have to be pulled again. If you take it apart, use the guide (or civic ek factory service manual, PDFs are available online) and go through checking all bolts are installed inside, the gear shift forks move the sliders properly, that the springs on the synchros are properly installed...etc. When you said when the car is on, all gears are no good. This makes me think the clutch release fork/bearing may be an issue, or at least something to check out. How does the clutch pedal feel? Smooth always, sketchy, too easy to press down? One other possible thing it could be is the clutch fork bearing may have been knocked off the clutch release fork, or the clutch release fork could have been knocked off its little ball(held in by that long wire type spring, Honda part number 22835-P20-010, that clips into the shift fork), and isnt able to release the clutch by properly pressing on the clutch release bearing. If the car is on and you cant shift into any gears, it may mean with the clutch pedal pressed in, the clutch isnt released from the flywheel so its still spinning the gears so you cant press the shifter into gears. This happened to me when I bumped the fork (piece the slave cylinder presses against when the pedal is pressed), and it popped off during mating it to the engine, but luckily I caught it before the transmission was even bolted back on. Definitely dont give up. Its a pain but in a few years time you wont think "yes, im glad i gave up". Many people may say the Transmission is "shot" or "done for" but they dont understand the workings of it. They just see the transmission as a mystery box, dont understand how it works, so they just think the transmission is "bad". I recently pulled an RSX transmission that would only turn half way then lock up. it was a "bad transmission" but pulling it apart revealed the problem. The problem was found, fixed, and it works like new.

@@CivicFiberglassDoori started simple and just undid the wrong bolt i put in the top and it worked. 1st and 2nd are back! i’m not sure where the little spring and ball is so that’s going to be a struggle to find. in australia we don’t have pick and pull junkyards.

@@rxefy are the rest of the gears back when the car is running?

@@CivicFiberglassDoor i haven’t tested it out yet as i don’t have a battery and i need to re bleed the clutch. but i will update either tonight or the next couple days. this has been a huge boost in motivation for me, thanks heaps

@@rxefyGood luck on this project. I hope what you did fixed everything, but if not, you fixed one thing and can now move to the next thing. Once solved, you will have a working transmission. As said before, a factory service manual is valuable to have if you need to reference anything.

1.) I used the bearing and seal kit from Synchrotech transmissions. The bearings didn’t have the Honda package on them but they were genuine NTN bearings. The seals weren’t Honda packaged but they were the same manufacturer as oem, so it’s the same. I did order the differential bearings from Honda though. I used online oem sellers so it’s at a discount. 2.) i reused those needle bearings. if there’s any scoring or marks on the needles, the shafts or gears, use new ones. Out of the 5 I’ve taken apart, I haven’t seen a bad one. 3.) I did have to put a new shim on because I used different case parts from a few transmissions (bell housing, transmission base, main shaft and countershaft) to make this work. I used the best parts and put them together to make my current transmission. if you don’t change parts that change the length of the shafts, you may not need to change the shims. If you install a new input shaft bearing, at least check that it’s exactly at the depth as the old one that comes out. If you do check the main shaft, there are other tools out there you can use to put tension on the main shaft. I just got the Honda tool to show the exact factory way to do it. I also got one of the last ones I’ve seen on eBay. It was $65, but new tools are a lot more

@@CivicFiberglassDoor Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Yesterday I dissembled the spare gearbox that I took to learn and experiment on. As expected the bearing on the main shaft facing the transmission housing has a huge play. The one on the clutch housing seems better but still, I guess it has too many miles on it. Small but still noticeable play on countershaft bearings as well. Differential bearings seem ok. 1st/2nd and 5th/reverse shift forks have minor wear, but 3rd/4th one has deep grooves. For this one let's say I will check what is the condition of my 3rd/4th gear shift fork that is on my vehicle (no shifting issues when driving so probably should be still usable). I can select the best parts from the 2 gearboxes that are within specs and assemble one at the end. Anyway, I am thinking that before purchasing a rebuild kit I need to assess the condition of all expense-sensitive parts that may need replacement. It's not mentioned in the service manual how to inspect the condition of the gears (tooth wear), only axial distances measurements. Any idea what reference can be used when judging whether the gears are ok or worn out? The current issue I am facing with my gearbox is that I have increased (bearing) noise on 1st, 2nd and reverse gears, and also huge radial clearance on the driveshafts that probably is the cause for the noticeable clunk noise when moving slowly back-forward. When I disengage the throttle completely while driving at 2000rpms I can notice there is some clearance somewhere between wheels and engine, something is loose. Same when I hit the gas pedal from driving in neutral...there is noticeable clearance in the powertrain.

@@ceckoslav I didnt really check for gear wear, since they all appeared to be good; there were no cracks or warped teeth faces. My guess is to look at the faces of the teeth and if they look smooth and not warped, they should be ok. Two years later and it is still going strong.

Does the sound go away when pressing the clutch in? If so, the input shaft bearing may be the cause. I havent opened one that hasnt had a bad ISB in it. Search for the 1996-2000 Factory Service Manual PDF for more info.

@@CivicFiberglassDoor Input shaft bearing is definitely bad. I suspect car thieves are getting worse and worse at driving manual transmissions so it must have been quite a joy ride. I think we will throw a set of bearings at this transmission since we found nothing too bad. We just tore it down and found that bearing to be noisy. Luckily I bought the service manual years ago and it's been very helpful!

I got the NTN bearing kit from SynchroTech transmissions. They sell a rebuild kit. I’d also replace the seals as well since they don’t cost too much.

Lucky kid! I wish my pops would do stuff like that with me. Instead, im learning how to wrench on my own

This video shows a “best practice” according to the official Honda manual, but in reality you can remove the bearings with something like a rented puller or banging it against the ground. This Video shows a mechanic removing the bearings, after removing the 32mm nut, by banging it against the ground against a towel: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/bNeHdNSTt56UeH0.htmlm1s

This was my first time building a transmission, but I am very mechanically inclined and followed manufacturer specs. I ordered all new bearings even if they seemed ok. The input shaft bearing is usually bad on these. The transmission in the video is actually one of a few that I pulled from a junk yard to rebuild so I know I’d have a good one before I pulled my failing transmission off. On the transmission in the video, the input shaft and countershaft bearings were bad, and the 3rd gear shift fork was out of spec; both are common. My transmission that was failing had the same bad bearings, the countershaft case bearing walked itself out causing 2nd gear to not engage very well. The 3rd gear shift fork made shifting into 3rd impossible and 4th very hard; lots of grinding. Most synchros were ok and within spec. A single synchro was less in spec (but still in spec) compared to others on the other junk yard transmission so I swapped in the better synchros. if I didn’t swap it, the synchro would still work well. More than a year later and there are zero issues with the transmission. Having extra parts from the junkyard and my failing transmission allowed me to build another one (with new case bearings though, always do that if possible, with NTN)

Do you mean what’s at 2:14? There are 3 screws/bolts that have a spring and a ball bearing that the spring presses against, and that ball bearing presses against the shift fork. 2:26 shows the ball bearings in the hand. 44:32 shows the ball bearing, spring and screw being installed.

@@CivicFiberglassDoor no I'm actually talking about the detent ball between the shifterfork on the shifterfork shaft. Maybe I missed it in the video. Your video is saving me on this first time rebuilding an s40. I noticed the teeth on my 4th gear are pretty rounded after watching this. I've got a spare s20 sitting around and I'm looking into snagging the 4th gears out of it possibly. Some people say they are interchangable. I guess I'd just have a taller 4th. Might not be so bad for gas milage and would still be fun 1-3 lol.

@@NoSleepRacing Let me know if these are what youre looking for: 24:35 where the spring and collar is installed, 25:13 where the bearing is dropped on top of the spring/collar and the shaft is slid over it while a chopstick holds the bearing down. 8:07 is when I pull the shaft out and that bearing launches into the air. 26:54 where I installed the detent bearing for the input shaft. Those are the only times I can remember there being a detent from when I rebuilt this way back.

​@@CivicFiberglassDoornope it's literally a detent ball on the shaft the shifter forks themselves. The detent groves are on one sifterfork and the hole sling and ball are on the shifter fork assembly that has a hole in the shifter fork. (the one the other shifter fork shaft goes though.)

If what you're talking about is at 20:22 as the shift fork is rotated, where the detents are on the left side of the screen, continued through 21:25, or on the shift fork that comes into frame at 39:24 (on 2 of the visible shafts), the ball bearings that are shown at 2:14 (removal) and 44:32 (re-installation), are the ball bearings/spring/bolt that press against that shift shaft. The 3 ball bearings/spring/bolt set are installed or removed from the outside of the case. These help the shift forks click and stay in gear. If you have the factory service manual, either physical or in PDF electronic format (easy to find), look at page 13-12 on the bottom left of the page, and 13-42 on the bottom left of that page. Those 3 sets are what press against the 3 shift shafts. That is one thing that I should have explained more clearly in the video. Reply back if this is what you are seeing, or not.

This is the P4A-B000 I followed the Honda Factory Service Manual for the 1996-2000 Honda civic. I own a physical copy of this I have used for many years, but I heard that PDF copies of this same manual exist on various websites such as Honda civic specific forum websites.

This is the B000 from an EX so it is short gear. The A000 is a long gear

This transmission and engine was not made to fit 6 gears. The whole transmission would need to be re-engineered to fit a 6th gear. It would be cheaper to swap a k20/24 engine and use a 6gear transmission. A lot more power/torque, and it’s a platform that accepts a bolt-on 6 gear transmission.

Thanks a bunch! Will that transmission bolt to d16y8 with a auto trans

Yes. You just need to get a flywheel in place of the flex plate that’s bolted to the crank. The d16y8 is from the EX. I believe the A000 transmission can also bolt up to the y8. Someone tested both. The B000 from the ex is quicker but the A000 had better gas mileage due to their gearing.

I definitely should have used a hammer. It is a made in USA old time Craftsmen so it handled it well. You can see later in the video that I used an impact wrench. I bought that half way through making the video. I 100% recommend getting one. It makes work so much quicker. I am building an Acura RSX transmission now for a project car. I wish I bought an impact wrench years ago.

@@CivicFiberglassDoor Question. I did everything correctly save one thing. I did not get my interlock lined up correctly the first time and the bolt caught the edge. I noticed it couldn't shift it on the bench. went back and watched the video and immediately knew what I did wrong. pulled out the interlock bolt and realigned it and reinstalled. shifts fine now. Do you think the interlock is wrecked due to bolt catching it? How bad could it be?

​@@tonyd7164 Its hard to say since i cant inspect the interlock or the bolt. It may be fine since it shifts on the bench now, but its hard to say. When you screwed in the interlock guide bolt, was there any resistance? Was the bolt screwed in all the way at the time you bench tested it and it didn't work? Is there physical damage to the interlock when you look through the hole? The "correct" way is to take the transmission housing off and undo the interlock to check for damage. This requires you to re-do the sealing of the transmission with Honda Bond (or equivalent), along with re-sealing the interlock shift shaft bolt, and interlock guide bolt hole. I checked and the interlock is discontinued from Honda (Part # 24430-PL3-010) so if yours is damaged, visiting a junk yard may be an option to get a part to replace it.

you can try HondaAutomotiveParts.com. But since the car is old, they may be discontinued. One thing you can do is look at SynchroTech Transmissions website. They well rebuild kits, so if the physical gear is ok, you can use one of their synchros to use with that. If the gear is not OK, you may need to go to a junk yard and tear a transmission apart to get the main/counter shaft, or look on ebay for counter/main shaft gears.

Ebay

I think it may be similar. You can download the factory service manuals online. I have a physical paper copy of mine but also use a PDF. Thats where I got all the specs and procedures.

este é o d16y8 com a transmissão B000. Acredito que a transmissão para o d16y7 seja o A000. o A000 tem rolamentos diferenciais de 35 mm e oferece melhor consumo de combustível, mas o B000 oferece melhor capacidade de resposta da potência do motor.

@@CivicFiberglassDoor muito obrigado pela atenção. Estou querendo muito abrir ele pois as marchas engatam com muita dificuldade e Também esta com folga no diferencial. Muito obrigado 😃

normalmente as engrenagens #2 e 3 apresentam problemas. a engrenagem nº 2 porque a engrenagem do contraeixo sai sozinha da carcaça e o garfo de mudança nº 3 está muito gasto.

@@CivicFiberglassDoor bom dia meu amigo. Acredita que meu câmbio é o p4A s40 B000? E o bloco é um d16y7. Deve ser igual ao que você abriu então.

correto. este vídeo é o b000. algumas pessoas colocam o b000 no motor y7 porque ele pode fazer o carro acelerar mais rápido, mas não fica tão bom quanto o a000. outro canal fez uma revisão de a000 versos b000. eles instalaram ambas as transmissões em seu único motor para testá-las.

Does a body good

I don’t understand your comment? This video shows the proper Honda manual way to do it. No one is telling you you have to follow this guide. Some people may not have the tools. But they can rent most of them for free from an auto parts store. For the few tools you may need to get, it’s way cheaper to buy them than to buy a prebuilt transmission. Adapt the guide to your liking if needed. Other than the vise used to hold the shaft while torquing the top not, this whole video was shot in a 1 bedroom apartment.

Then move on. This isnt an engineer from Honda. Theyre showing how the manual says to do it. If you dont have the tools, dont do the job. Other than the dial indicator, I dont see anything else that any basic mechanic wouldnt have.