The heat mark's on the crank, those are from when they are assembling the pin that the Connecting rod rides on, they heat it with a torch, and it expands the hole, sometimes they might also freeze the pin to shrink it, the Combination produces an extremely easy assembly and a tight Press fit 👍 !

I really enjoyed this video! I’ve never attempted to do this myself due to my fear of really screwing something up. I’ve always had to pay the big bucks to have crank seals replaced but you’ve inspired me to give this a try when they need them again. One complaint though… Don’t call yourself stupid. You are an intelligent young man that is willing to admit his mistakes. That takes courage and humility. Keep up the great work!

Really enjoy your content especially with no snow in Minnesota or out west where we ride. If you don’t have a clutch puller handy we use the clutch bolt with a bunch of wraps of Teflon tape and water, it will pop the clutch off using hydraulic pressure and no issues with broken pullers. We have used this method for years on our Summits.

Great video. I like that you show your mistakes so we all can learn from them. If you are looking for summer content. I would love to see older atv videos. Seems like every atv video out there is all newer stuff. I personally like the older 80s 90s. Even early 2000. Stuff. Anyway thanks again for all your videos. Hope you get tons more subscribers you deserve it.

Newsflash: If your crank seals are leaking, then you likely have all kinds of damaged bearings. Yet in this video, I did not that the crankshaft was pulled and the bearing individually cleaned and spun by hand to test the spinning ability and test for the sound of rattling ball bearings. The piston rods could also be bouncing on the crank, but there was no test for that little detail. End bearings can easily be removed and replaced without a press. The crank ends should be sanded down with 2000 grit sandpaper or finer. I did not see any grease applied to the backside of the crank seals. I did not see any oil compatible grease applied to the exposed end bearings.

Great vid!! You should use Yamabond #4 or Three Bond on the case halves. It's what we used at the dealer. I loved the fact that you showed your mistake. It takes balls!! I think your channel will do well.

Just found your channel so getting caught up on all your vids, great job! Low end bog on these could also be clutching. Not a worry though if you're just going to flip it.

I know this is an old video but for future reference, hardware on the chassis are American 9/16 on carb side nuts. Exhaust side are 5/8 head 11/16 nut. A stubby (short wrench) helps by tie rods. Engines are metric hope that helps

NICE, BOTH PART 1 & 2 WERE COOL. FEELS GOOD TO COME TO AN END. TOO BAD IT WASN'T IN YOUR TIME FRAME AND COST MORE THAN YOU WANTED TO PART WITH. BUT NOW SHE'S READY FOR A NEW HOME... STAY COOL, PEACE FROM CREEL CHIHUAHUA, MEXICO...🏞

Great video 👍👍

Quad season is upon us. Since you’ve got the puller, Polaris quad time.

Subbed. Nice video very helpful. Did you use a puller to get the fly eheel off?

At least on a 488 or 500 Indy there is a skidoo seal that can be used on the PTO side with out having to split the case there are videos out there on it

Could we get a video on the Delorean this spring?

I sincerely hope you put the yamabond to the case halve surfaces !

Nice job. Doing is learning. I have to ask... did you bleed the oil pump? And did you pre mix the fuel tank with oil since you opened the oil system?

Nice sled

Nice delorian

Next, replace the crankshaft bearings.

Remember, Always lift with your back?

You are subjecting the carb needles to unnecessary potential damage, why?

Water and a bolt.... done

Good ol wedgie.

Blue on the crank is never good. There is very few sealants that are good for case half’s. Yamabond or ultra gray or ultra black

Front motor mounts are always a pain.