AH Thanks Bax! That's why I make them. Glad it all worked our for you. Just give me a thumbs up for the thanks. If you would like to help my channel subscribe, even if you don't come back it helps. I"m working on an AC video series just for the 99-2004 F250 & F350 trucks. I show how to diagnose & change every component in the trucks AC system. Part of the series will be on how clean the Evaporator in two hours without having to let the refrigerant out. Doing this cleaning It will cool the truck down faster and help insure it works for years to come. It's going to take a few months to get it all edited, list the tools, part numbers and where to get them, but it will be worth it. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You're welcome Mr.T. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Yeah it's always good to measure. I didn't figure that out until I had ordered them. Hope it all works out for you. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Sounds like you've got it well under control. You should post an instruction video on the rear ones. Glad you liked the video and the comment. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yep, check the description I put some part numbers in there so you can order the correct ones. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Thanks Ruiter. Cool, I didn't know they made them with grease fitting, and yep it was the wrong size, LOL, I almost didn't post it because of that. However I left it up so to show how easy it was to do it. I did find the correct size on line after measuring the bar and posted the correct P/N: and size in the show more comments above. Thanks for watching and not making to much deserved fun of me. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

They are bent to clear the frame. So check that.

@@keithnoneya They both clear fine. It's just that the bushing on the driver's side seems too far to the left; almost into the curve of the sway bar. Seems off center. Handles fine, but makes a little noise when the springs flex.

@@azcharlie2009 Try putting a little sliver of a inner tube strip in the pocket of the U-Strap that holds them on, it might take up a little bit of the slack and fix that.

Thanks Freedom 1, Yeah I guess as long as you put the cut in the same direction on both sides it won't matter. Personally I wish they had cut it in front like the original. Thanks for the comment. Best Wishes n blessings. Keith Noneya

Hey Ralph try this 4wd PN K80201 link; www.amazon.com/s?k=K80201&ref=nb_sb_noss or this 2wd PN: K80072 Link www.amazon.com/s?k=K80072&crid=629IZJXHWRXX&sprefix=k80072%2Caps%2C2102&ref=nb_sb_noss_1 Hope that helps. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

It was one of many issues I had. I had to change the Carrier Bearing ( middle of the drive shaft), the bushings in the video, the sway bar links & the front Right Outer Tie Rod to the passenger side. After that the majority of the rattles in the suspension when away. As far as the sway bar bushings, there are two sizes. You'll have to figure out which one you have before you order the bushings. At the time I ordered them I didn't know that, so I got the wrong ones. To help out those who watch the video I put the sizes and part numbers for both in the description above. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

You can pick that up at the wrecking yard or even the Ford Dealer. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yeah it did for me too. Hope the video helped show how easy it was. There a two sizes that I can tell. You have to measure the swaybar and then look in the description of the part for sale and make sure it's the right size. In the video I purchased the wrong size as can be seen by the rattle in the end. I purchased the right size yesterday, been a little slow in putting the right size in, LOL. Thanks for watching I hope the video helped. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith

Thanks. The headlights are off a 2004. They don't look the same because they're smoked and they have clear lenses instead of ribbed. So I thought they would look better with my black trim. I was right, so I purchased them off eBay a few years ago. eBay item No. 381543140434 $75.99. You can get a set here: www.ebay.com/itm/Smoke-1999-2004-Ford-F250-F350-F450-Superduty-Excursion-Headlights-Bumper-Corner-/381543140434?fits=Year%3A2004%7CModel%3AF-350+Super+Duty&hash=item58d5be4c52:g:dnUAAOSwFNZWvAaa&vxp=mtr Installation video is here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/fL6jqdGEtazMink.html Hope this helps. I also have a playlist for all my F350 Videos, if you're interested, here: kzfaq.info/sun/PLVLXGvrQp0OtT4QJeMKZ764rC2A87eiXz If you subscribe it will help me reach my channel goal of 1,000 subscribers. If not that's ok. Thanks for watching, Best Wishes n Blessings Keith PS feel free to ask any questions, if I can help I will. Keith

I have to agree, plain and simple, wish all you tube videos were like this.

Thanks Joker. I try to make all my videos complete. I'd rather they were all short like this one but I try to include tips, tools and part numbers. Try my front shock video, it's a little shaky but anyone could do it easily after watching it. Here's my F350 Playlist link: kzfaq.info/sun/PLVLXGvrQp0OtT4QJeMKZ764rC2A87eiXz Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings Keith

Hi jsp, you can tell easily by crawling under the truck and bumping the sway bar at the bushings, and don't forget to check the drag links that bolt to the frame on the end of the swaybar ends. However this could only be part of your problem. I think you may have a wheel hub bearing going out. You can lift the truck front tire, one at a time, leave the tire bolted on and wiggle it in and out on the top and bottom and then left to right. If you hear any clunking noise you'll need to have the wheel hub assembly, tie rod and drag links inspected, or replaced. Go with some quality hubs, like Timken, or for suspension components use MOOG. They are not cheap but you don't want to skimp or you'll be back at it again in a year or two. Most automotive repair shops will do the inspection for free if you ask them. I must tell you that it's not a cheap repair, it should cost around $500.00 to $800.00 depending on who does it and what's replaced. You can do the hub yourself for around $300.00. But you have to have the tools and experience in order to perform the job. If you're not familiar with this kind of repair get a professional to do it. Here's a few links on what's involved: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mZxpepWlntubkZ8.html Oh by the way skip the torch, just by new ones, as they are not expensive. For more info on hub replacement just do a search on it. I hope I've given you some ideas on what to check. Feel free to ask as many questions as you need to. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Keith Noneya Keith Noneya I replaced my passenger side hub a couple months back. It made a totally different noise though. This noise is much different. I had them check this hub when I was getting my other one done and it was fine. Drag links were replaced about 3 years ago after an accident. Could this be universal or ball joints? Literally one day it was fine and the next day it was making the noise.

Hum, OK, if you have your 4WD hubs locked and it's not in 4WD at the transmission it could be the U-Joint on the front drive shaft, so check that by disengaging them one at a time. If it's the ball joints you can watch them while someone turns the wheels, if you see side play then you've probably found you problem. There's also motor and transmission mounts that can cause that noise but it's very unusual for them to go. Also fan shrouds and check your axles mounting bolts, it's a guess since i'm not there to hear it. These are just a few odd things I've come across over the years. Let me know what you find out, cause i'm curious now what's causing it. Keith Noneya

Keith Noneya i checked my hubs and apparently one was locked and the other wasn’t. I unlocked both. And I cannot hear noise anymore. I’ll keep an eye on it though and I’ll definitely have everything checked when I get it serviced next. Thanks for your help!

Wow that's awesome! Glad to help. You should be able to leave them both locked but it chews up the mileage. So I leave both mine unlocked unless I think i'm in an area I might need 4WD. I would definitely get those front shaft U-Joints checked since at least one of them was making noise. Anyways, thanks again for watching. You should do a video on it and post it. Someone else may be able to use it. That's how I got started in YT. Then a friends said, "You make some pretty good simple videos, how much do you make?" I laughed and told him I didn't make anything. He showed me how to monetize my videos, now I make about $165.00 a month on YT with my vids. If you're good at it, and work at it, not me, you can make a little money, if you're really good at it you can make a living at it. I don't really do it for the money, but hey if i'm going to put them up, I might as well make something off those companies who make money using my videos, right? Anyway gotta go bud, gonna do some LAN gaming with my son. Again feel free to ask, comment or drop some tips any time on my channel. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Hi James, I went out to my truck and took it off and measured it. - Bolt dia is10mm x 1.5 pitch. - Thread length is 38mm, - Total bolt length with the head is 47mm. The head on the bolt is 13mm's. I'm sure you can pick up an exact duplicate at the wrecking yard or find one on line or the dealer. When you pick up the bushings for the sway bar, make sure you get the right ones. There are two different diameter sizes. As I show in the video, i got the wrong one. If you measure your bar I put the size and part number in the description above. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya Keith you are the man!! Seriously appreciate you taking some time to do that for me. I'm going to check out the Ace hardware bolt section and see if I can find some grade 8's in that size - if not Ford is the next stop. Thanks again sir

@@qodebrojames Hey James just because it's the dealer doesn't mean that's it's over priced, well maybe a few bucks extra, but at least you have the exact part. Are you going to put a stock swaybar on it or aftermarket? If stock man check out those wrecking yards. It should have all you need cheap including the swarbar bushings. Keith

I know it's an old post, but I broke my bolt removing my sway bar bushing bracket. I believe and hoping QodeBroJames and Keith are talking about the same thing. That way I can drill/tap/remove the old bolt. I just need confirmation so I can tackle the job. I took a nut off a threaded post to remove the bracket. Is it possible this is a stud pressed into the housing?

I've heard that for decades. If you put the torque wrench up high it's no different than doing a torque, which is how I do it. Now with that said it's a $20.00 dollar POS I use for doing automotive work, I have another one for more critical torquing. Besides I've had one that I used in the manner I described for over a decade. Took it to a calibration lab and it was dead on. So does it hurt to use one to break bolts free, well I guess that depends on how you use it, above the torque or below it. I always set it higher than it takes to break the bolt free, but I don't use my special one for that. These cheap ones make really cheap 1/2" ratchet wrenches. I would like to see someone come up with a cheaper ratchet wrench. If you know of one let me know, when I break this one in the next 20 years i'll consider it. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yes but not because of the sway bar bushings. I've had four other main issues with my truck: 1. Rattles on bumps - Was the Sway bar Links. 2. The engine dropping to idle - Was the PPS Peddle Position Sensor. 3. The engine cutting out at any speed - Was the CPS Cam Position Sensor. 4. Oil in the valley pan and dripping on the driveway - Was the ICP Injection Control Pressure Sensor. Hope that helps. If you have any more questions, feel free to ask. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

Keith Noneya I meant did the bad sway bar cause any issues besides the knocking noise

Oh Sorry about that Samuel, nope didn't cause any other issues. I suppose if one or both were missing they might have caused a little more roll in turns, but other than the noise I didn't notice anything. Just out of curiosity what year is your truck?

Keith Noneya I have a 99 7.3 f350

Keith Noneya I'm trynna figure out why my truck wanders

The original weren't greased so I don't think doing that would make them work better or make them last longer. My originals lasted from 2001 to 2016 so keeping them stock probably wouldn't hurt. Funny I thought about that and also thought about painting the undercarriage. It's a nice truck and I love it, but I don't really want to spend the time detailing it for show. Maybe some day I'll scrub it up and paint it. Thanks for watching. Oh don't forget to check the description as I put the part numbers for both sizes in there. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@@keithnoneya good video thanks

A lot of times you can get Ford parts on line rather than from the dealership itself. Some dealerships even sell parts on line. It's always best to shop around or even use another bolt with the same threads. Cost of the part at the dealerships aren't always higher, it depends on the supply and demand for the part and how well the dealership is doing and of course the manager of the parts department. There's also the wrecking yards that have good used parts as well. If you have the time shop around for it first. Also the dealership has EXTREMELY HIGH operating costs that an on line supply warehouse doesn't. So when you go to the dealership expect to pay through the nose for the convenience of the those parts being stored and ready for you to just pick them up. Most people don't even know the dealership has to pay the government just for the privileged of owning it even AFTER they have purchased it to put it on the shelf and store it for you to come and get it. The government calls these "Inventory Tax", and the shelves and ALL the equipment, computers etc used to sell and track that part have a tax called "USAGE TAX". Usage tax is you have to pay the government money to own and use YOUR OWN EQUIPMENT to run your business. On top of that they have; building tax, property tax, electrical tax, sewage tax, water tax, phone tax, income tax, employee matching SSI tax, employee unemployment tax, environmental tax, on the chemicals, sales tax on the parts they buy to stock & the list goes on and on. Heck the government even taxes them on the carpet and chairs and office supplies the business has. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Yep I mention that in the description and give the sizes and part numbers. Ironically I still ran these for years until I got off my lazy butt and changed them. Thanks bud. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

@keithnoneya shoot I measured my sway bar got the bushings for that size sway bar, was tight on the bar an there was slack on the bracket side....... Sometimes.....haha thank you for the video. God bless

@@msyverson7936 😂😂😂 Yep that's how goes sometimes. You can see been there done that! Thanks for the kind words. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

I've used this CHEAP Torque Wrench for over 20 years. I set it higher than the expected torque and it works great as a 1/2" ratchet. I took it to a friend who has a calibration laboratory and he said it's still right on the money. So I appreciate the concern but it's unwarranted. I do have a nicer torque wrench for critical torques though. Cheap Torque wrenches make EXCELLENT ratchets IF you use them correctly. They give you better leverage and can still do non-critical torques. But you can NOT use them in high stress area as you can damage it, even if set on a high setting. For those really tough breaks I do use a breaker bar. Thanks for watching. Best Wishes & Blessings. Keith Noneya

Rayfire50. This statement is a very common misconception. I've used these LOW quality Torque wrenchs as a light to medium breaker bars for 20 plus years. After years of using it as such I took it to a calibration lab to see if it would effect it, nope it had ZERO effect on it's calibration, proof is in the pudding. The trick is to use it on a very high setting, if it weren't capable of doing that it couldn't perform any repeatable torque properly. So like I said the trick is to use it at a high setting, if not I agree the torque wrench could easily be damaged. For heavy duty breaking bolts free i ALWAYS use an actual breaker bar. Would I do this to an expensive high quality torque wrench like a Snap-On, absolutely not. I get this comment every now and then, I think I'm going to start educating people on how to use a low quality torque wrench as low to medium breaker bar in my videos, and how to do it safely without damaging the Torque wrench. Also if the torque wrench was to break i'd just throw it away and buy another cheap one and use it for another 20 plus years. Thanks for the comment. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya

LOL I get that once in a while. It's a cheap torque wrench I use as a ratchet because it's cheaper. Also I do raise the torque setting way High so that it will not ruin the actual torque mechanism. I've used them this way for over 30 years and have taken them to a NIST Calibration Lab, certified Lab and there was not change. The trick is you have to put the setting higher than the expected break point of the nut you're loosening. If you don't do it, you can ruin an expensive torque wrench pretty quick. With that said I wouldn't do that to an expensive torque wrench, it would work but I just wouldn't. Hope it helped anyways. Take it easy and thanks for the laugh. Best Wishes & Blessing. Keith Noneya

And completely forgot to grease it 🙃

No you don't, it's supposed to be snug, which is why I purchased some new ones because the ones in the video were still a little loose. In the Show more tab below the video I put the part number for the 1-1/4" size 4WD sway bar, the ones I should have used. When I purchased these they didn't make a distinction on swaybar size differences so I purchased the wrong ones, to large for my sway bar. Which ever size swaybar you have the procedure is the same, so I hope the video helps you. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya