I am no mechanic, and by no means had ever changed ball joints before owning my 99 F250 7.3, but after receiving a quote for ball joints I decided to give it a go. For under $200 I replaced the front shocks (specialty lift shocks), changed both sides upper and lower ball joints, installed new tie rod ends and sleeves, and put 3 inch lift blocks under my front coil springs, and I did it all in under 6 hours in my garage. The only special tools I used were a set of ball joint presses, a big set of pliers, and a set of spring compressors. The special tools cost me $150 total to purchase from harbor freight. Oh, and a little mini propane torch. lol. Between youtube and google, almost any man or woman can do a job like this. If I can I know you can!!

Very well done and explained for those that are a bit timid about doing the job.

I have only recently purchased an 2002 F250 superduty 4-wheel drive and your channel has helped save me thousands in labor. Any 22yr old truck needs repairs from both age and neglect. By far you are my favorite channel. Beautifully clear do's/don'ts in your narration. Thank you

Thank you for this video. I am working on my son F350 getting all the parts and did not want to buy the knuckle seal tool and seeing you used that 4" flared pipe will help me too.

I'd just like to state for the record that as a result of this video - and all the others I've watched - I have judged you to be a fantastic teacher / instructor. If I'm going to bang on my Excursions, Automedic Garage is my first stop nowadays. I don't have confidence or skill. Or talent. But I gain enough to do these jobs after spending some time here. Thanks for taking the time!

Nicely done how to video. I did mine last year and had the same problems with the same ball joint tool

Oh man oh man. To take not rusty things apart….. Nice work dude.

Thank you for the video! I didn’t read all of the comments so someone might have caught the procedure you used when you torqued the ball joints.I rebuilt my 60 and learned the hard way that there’s a right and wrong way to torque the ball joint nuts. The wrong way can likely give you memory steer which I ended up getting. Best way is to leave the top camber/caster spacer out while you start by torquing the bottom to 40 ft lbs then install the camber spacer just setting it in then torque the top nut to 69 ft lbs then go back and torque the bottom to 150 ft lbs. if you miss this step the top ball joint will be overloaded causing sticky steering also known as memory steer. Trust me don’t do it like this video shows because there’s a good chance you’ll get memory steer. it sucks especially after going through all the work to rebuild the front end. One more thing make sure you clean the camber/caster bushings 26:19 with Emory along with the socket in the knuckle so it fits nice and smooth this will help it seat. Hopefully this excursion in the video didn’t end up having the dreaded superduty memory steer that drives so many guys crazy trying to keep it going straight down the road.

This is one of the best super duty ball joint videos out there. I have done this job before and getting ready to do it again. I saved my diy pipe tool for the seal to tap it in. Im sure there is a video somewhere that shows how to make it in case someone doesn't have the 4" muffler pipe.

Well done and Thanks for posting this! Ive been contemplating wether or not to take my truck to a shop definitely can do it myself after watching your tutorial. Wish you the best with your new shop.

Great instructions! Thank you.

I’ve got a 02 F-350 4 wheel drive 7.3. I’m about to do them so thank you very much for your help and time to show us. I am a new subscriber, thank you very much.

Awesome video man. Thanks.

About to do mine in my v10. Thankful it's not rusty yours came sorry pretty easy.

Extre honesty is great. When money is involved its very rare. I'm impressed.

Got my ball joint press at harbor freight years ago. I use it for so much more than just ball joints.

Great video thanks for the step by step!

Thanks for the video. It sure helped me.

Bro thx for the vid great job as long as you have the correct tools anything is possible with a little guidance you rocked it

thanks for the video it's gonna help me too doo this job

Great work!

Great video hardly ever do you see a how to video on the same model. Took me a few hours thanks for the tutorial

Good job brother

Legend. Thank you

Thank you for this I am about to do mine!

super helpful man. big thanks!

Just ordered kryptonite ball joint set for my 02 F350. I ask the ball joint question on a 7.3l Facebook technical page and spicer seemed to be the majority of the votes with kryptonite a close second. Had several comments warning me to stay away from Moog. Factory driver side lower ball joint is bad with 138,000 miles, I also tow a 35" 5th wheel and run 35x12.50 tires. We'll see how long these krypto's last. Diesel power products had them for a great price.

25:10 Learned my new thing for the day. Thank you. I don't have the special tool either or that nice pipe. I have a 3.5"OD to 4"OD stainless exhaust pipe that was a drop from some long time ago job. Works though for these type seals.

Great video thanks brother

Thanks!

I have a 2004 f350 6.0 diesel 4x4, having problems with loose steering. Took it to a shop and they told me that I need new front hubs so I told them to put new shocks on as well. $1663 is what they charged me. Driving home same problem. I called them they said bring it back. I didn't. Went to a different shop with the same steering problems. They charged me $65 for the exam and told me that it would cost $5,300 😖. I'll be ordering my parts online and do my best to get the job done, of course with KZfaq 😁.Thanks.

I got moog ball joints for both sides at orileys & connecting rods + a grease gun and grease with a new steering stabilize for under 500$ and bought the best they had to offer 💪 I'm not a mechanic but know this is too easy to let the dealership rob me

Damm bro you made all that look very easy !!! 👍🏽

Can you do a follow up vid with the sequence of torques?

What about mevotech supremes? I've had good experience with them but I'm not a full time mechanic so I dont have the experience to make a good call. I especially like mevotech TTK lineup too. They seem pretty heavy duty

Loved the video, I did my wheel bearing a couple of years ago, didn’t do the ball joints now I’m going in to do ball joints. Does the camber sleeve on the upper ball joint come out when you press out the upper ball joint? Is there a certain setting I need to be aware of when installing? Thanks again, great instruction!

Thanks for this great video. Planning on doing this job on my '03 F-350 Superduty 4X4. Can you comment with the brand and part number of your ball joint service tool kit? Do you like the one you have or have a better recommendation?

Thank you much for putting this video together. Where did you get the 4” pipe with a flare?

Thanks a ton. Doing these and full steering linkage on my 03 F250. I don’t have air tools, but do have the ball joint press kit from Harbor Freight. Hope that with regular hand tools/breaker bar etc. is enough. Anyone have recommendations? Thanks again

Great video. Been watching a bunch of them. Question - 2001 F-350 7.3 - ball joints don't have any play and were replaced a few years ago before I got the truck. My issue is steering memory. Can I fix this problem be retorquing the ball joints (remove them and reinstall) or do they have to be replaced (since now they are possibly ruined from being installed incorrectly)?

Kryptonite, dynotrac, ball joints are rock steady parts with lifetime warranty ta boot. But they do come at a lil extra cost. If money's not an issue I'd go with dynotrac, if your on a budget Kryptonite, then Moog or TRQ.

How far does that axel shaft seal go into the knuckle when your putting it back in?

Nice vid! I’ve watched several others and all spec the same upper and lower ball joint but torques as you. In my Ford SD manual for 99 it specs both nuts at 101 ft-lbs. Is the difference a Moog thing, Ford thing, or ??

Moog offers a standard ball joint and a .005 oversize ball joint. Which do you prefer?

Have to sub I’ve seen this video 6 times! My problem is one of my new lower ball joints just spins when I try and tighten it :( so I’ll get it tight with a wrench and hex socket but know way to torque it right like the other side oh well

Has anyone else had clearance issue with moog upper ball joint grease zerk? On a 4x4 the 90 degree?

I usually default to cutting the ball joint studs off with a grinder and cutoff wheel before even attempting to remove them.

I just did moog 3 months ago and i had to replace everything i did a week ago

Whew buddy that lower joint was a challenge. Press kit was lacking the right pieces. Got her set the primitive way hammer town. One thing you didn't touch is that camber sleeve up top. Does the book call for resetting that deal?

Do you preferred Moog over Ford OEM Motorcraft ball joints?

Dealer quoted 7hrs of Labor for ball joints. It's now a DIY project. How long did this take you?

Does doing the ball joints affect the allingment?

But i do like the pipe trick i bought the tool for that

The inner seals don't tear when you pull the axles?

What’s the average cost of this procedure typically? Had my mechanic quote me $8-900 for upper and lower on both sides. 2007 F350 4x2.

What is the drill that you are using?

👍

The lower the better, lot easier to put that tire and wheel back on!

Top doesn't require snap ring?

The problem is your cup and the Maddox Harbor Freight cup also pushes on the round part of the Balljoint .. The Maddox will mushroom over the round part and compress it and make the ball joint tight.. They need a cup that drives the on the seat of the Balljoint

Go with spicer

xrf balljoint

I'm going with kryptonite ball joints and wheel bearings

seems like all the 4 ×4 s have more problems than the 2 wd s why is that

Where are you located

No need to greese the ball joints?

Lol the whole front linkage from moog is 1200 lol

Jack stand be careful

Man my knees hurt...you do a great video but your knees have to ache.

Kryptonite ball joints and tie rods

Great, considering that I just replaced the spindle. Off to Princess Auto to get a ball joint press. I'm going to be behind on my internet porn..

My sister has an f-250 diesel that needs ball joints- dynamic diesel is asking 5 grand to do it- screw that -

Moog sucks ass. I was disappointed how cheap the ones I bought felt. Joint was already loose so i decided not to install them. Went with a set of Kryptonite, although they were pricey, I'm not trying to remove the axles yet again...

@7:13 a jack stand with the jack would be appropriate. NEVER PUT YOUR LIFE under a vehicle suspended by a JACK. Put some stands under it!! I there's one on the driver side already, wouldn't hurt to do the passenger side!!

Moog isn't any better than anybody else anymore. I've got about a year and a half on a set of upper and lowers that have failed at 8000 miles. Can't get a reply back from anyone concerning their fantastic claims of replacement. Just done with the whole globalization of everything. Anything you buy anymore is just a stab in the dark. But thanks for the video. 👍

I guarantee it won't be that easy for me.

May be a good film, but I ditched because of music.

Use timken ball joints.. everything moon now is junk unfortunately. Had a hub last less than 10k

You are dead on about moog parts .

Thought this was a how to video.

Moog is junk