√ *Watch the Video* √ *Buy The Part at 1A Auto* 1aau.to/m/Visit-1AAuto √ *Do it Yourself* √ *Save Money*

So glad I live in the south. I been working on cars for over 20 years and I've never not once had to use heat. A little PB blaster is all I've ever needed.

FYI - make sure you check the size of the studs before you start pulling everything off. My truck is a 1999 and my previous hub had 14mm studs and my replacement hub has 12mm studs. 1999-00 was a crossover year supposedly with a mid year change. So it’s best to check ahead of time so you have the correct size lug nuts. The size of the studs doesn’t affect the wheel since they are hub-centric. All factory Ford wheels from this generation have the same size holes I believe.

Great video, thanks. Just did mine, but one at a time on the ground, so I also unbolted the tie rod end to make it easy to swivel the knuckle.

Great video. Thanks for doing this it was very helpful!

Awesome video! I love how you include the torque specs so I don't have to look them up!

Thanks for an informative video. The title would be more helpful to 2WD owners if you specified that the vehicle was 4WD, but it was great to see how you did it. Regarding rounding off the bolt heads, you might mention that a quality 6-point socket, such as the ones you were using and that 1A-Auto sells, are less likely to round off the bolt heads than the 12-point sockets that many people have in their tool kits. Thanks for the video. Please consider making a video on changing the front wheel bearings on 2WD F150 trucks of this vintage, including the Ford-recommended way of seating the new bearings and the final tightening of them to the proper torque spec.

Is this install the same for a 2000 ford expedition 4.6L V8 Triton XLT 4 wheel drive?

Good job bro

I just did my front end and in my 1999 f150 4.6l 4x4 wanted to change the hubs as well but I found there's a anti-seize sensor that is installed into the hub. My new parts look exactly except it did have the spot to re-install the sensor. 😥 Back to the drawing board. Any advice?

Can you replace a lug stud without having to removing that? I’m not finding any clearance to do so, a PIA.

Dude thank you so much for how much you explained everything and showed so smoothly

I definitely subscribed, I'm no mechanic, but now with the internet, anyone can do the basic maintenance, I just don't do internal mechanic specs of internal engine , or the transmission, but everything else I can do myself

Something that this video failed to mention. If the hub assembly has gotten water in it due to a failed axle seal, the hub will be rusted together,making it hard to remove. I had to use a Cold Chisel to pry the hub from the spindle.

i wonder if turning the 4wd on with the other three tiress on the ground will let us get that big axel nut off

Do you have that part number on hand for the axle shaft seal? The one that doesn’t come with the hub assembly? 02 f150 v8 5.4

Great info and informative video. I'll be doing the same thing soon. Does the new hub come with new bearings or is that extra? I have a 94 GMC Sonoma 2WD (S15). I have new rotors, brake pads but I want to replace everything as new. Thanks again.

What is the seal name or part number? I’m tired of getting the wrong one for the 3rd time

What’s the name of the seal In the knuckle

Doesn't the new one come with the new studs,and assembly bolts!

At least he knows what to do

Can it be the bearings without the hum noise cuz I have an issue going on with my Ford it started out with a popping noise and I know it's my tie rod kind of when you turn it it kind of like flips up I'm assuming I can readjust that and it wouldn't it'll stop that but also I don't have any really grinding noise or humming noise or anything all I have is where my tires are walking in and out real bad especially when I'm driving down the road can it still be my bearings I'mma do it myself or so I'm willing to watch and take in any videos I can to help me assess my situation my next question is can I buy them whole without having to put it in little piece by little piece and packing it is there a bigger system I can buy and just bolt it on and go please feel free to hit me up on messenger or Facebook or anything I normally do mechanic work myself I'm normally pretty confident about my mechanical work I work for a towing company and I work in a very well-known shop up north it was family owned but still we got treated like grunts and got a measly paycheck LOL I think the main reason why I'm little extra nervous is because it's not just me it drives us vehicle it's my beautiful wife and I don't want nothing bad to happen to her and sometimes our daughter is in the truck so any tips in any way is saving any money or anybody's in the area and would like to help when I get to parts that would be awesome my wife and I have five beautiful babies we have three boys and two girls and two of the boys are twins our babies from the age of four to almost a year anyways please help me out throw me some good ways to going on this I don't want my wife and children and an unsafe vehicle and with this virus work is talk work is hard to come up with so I can would love any help I can get thank you very much

Would it be the same if the truck is Equipped with abs?

Is it the same for a ford f150 2000 4.2 it should be but i wonder thanks in advance

Is there a video for the non 4x4 f150 on how to replace the front bearings ?

Can you just replace the inner bearing? Your store seems to sell mostly the inner bearings, on ebay at least. Any video on that?

Trying t ofind a video for replacing the hubs on a 2001 Ford Expedition 2WD. Can this be the same application??

Rather than leave the ignition key on, I disconnect the tie-rod end so the knuckle can be turned easily plus that allows the tie-rod to be out of the way.

what is the part number for the axle seal?

He was worried about damaging the old treads but they was being replaced anyways. Lol

Why didn't you grease the bearings?

So don’t replace hub and continue driving with 4 lugs instead of 5? Sounds good to me

Thank you

And once again nobody puts the torque specs

Where is the ABS wire?

That's not my 99 f150 - must be different for the 5.4 liter

Shit buddy. My bolt was finger tight

just fyi the torque specs are not correct for rwd. I tried torquing my spindle nut to 250 and it completely stripped my spindle!! oops, guess i shouldn't go off the first video i watch--costly mistake

What is the reason you didn't loosen the axle nut on the ground? You just take the center cap off and voila.....cause we all know axle nuts don't typically come off that easy

yeah!!! this is definitely not a 1998 ford F150. Shame on you 1A Auto.