did you also remove all the hoses behind?

gaps widen with age.

yup itll be fine until you fuck up that ONE thread and usually its something really important

+Nigel Morgan Thank you Nigel! I am using a BSH true seal intake. What I like about it is that it draws colder air directly from outside of the vehicle thanks to the air box that encloses the filter. I had a Nuespeed P-flo before this, and I would say the difference is marginal. Ultimately most cold air intakes are going to function the about same. I would recommend the BSH true seal because it is a better fit than the P-flo, and its not quite as loud (I found the sound to be a little obnoxious after the novelty wore off).

+Joelkswagen Cheers Joel, sounds like a great choice as a good fit and less obnoxious sound is important to me. There are so many on the market to choose from so it's always good to get other people's opinions. I look forward to future DIY/How to videos from you - definitely helped me with my MkV GTI. Thanks again!

Mine was Pcv valve causing back pressure of vapour which was oiling

Or I might have a boost leak. The clamp on the turbo intake is too large and I spun the hose it cracked the seal that caked itself so now I’m experiencing slipping.

Pero take it to a vw specialist covers about £200 replaced

Haha it’s a vacuum pump seal , costed me 20 bucks on amazon

+bryanviper Hey Bryan! Great question. I moved to the true seal intake because I had heard that it would lead to better fuel trims due to shape of the MAF sensor housing. I made the switch because I have been getting a check engine light for fuel pressure issues. One of the most inexpensive possible fixes was to change out the intake to hopefully fix a fuel trim issue, therefore alleviating the CEL. The BSH also does a better job of pulling cold air from outside the vehicle with the provide air filter housing. Unfortunately I can report that it did not fix the CEL. It is likely the aftermarket HPFP I bought used... probably low quality and it might just barley not be meeting the request fuel pressure from the tune. I get a CEL, but not noticable performance loss so for the time being I'm not messing with it. Not about to throw down $500 for a new pump Your second question, it was very easy to clean up the area where the valve cover seats onto the engine. I got lucky and the seal pulled off in one piece. I know this isn't always the case. If you have more than 70k miles, you might need to remove pieces of the seal with something plastic ( as to not scratch the metal surface). Let me know how your gasket replacement goes!

+Joelkswagen Great thanks for the info. I'll have to give it a try this spring/summer probably. Not leaking oil as bad as yours however it is slowly getting there. I currently have about 136,000KM (84,500Miles) on mine.

+Joelkswagen Great thanks for the info. I'll have to give it a try this spring/summer probably. Not leaking oil as bad as yours however it is slowly getting there. I currently have about 136,000KM OR 84,500Miles on mine.

+Joelkswagen Damn, sorry to hear that the BSH didn't fix the CEL. Your old P-Flow has been holding up strong in my car btw. Hopefully you can get a better HPFP. I've been looking into the Autotech internal kit. But I fear my stock pump has too many miles on it. Might cause a failure. I just don't have the cash to drop on an APR HPFP or HPA sadly.

This is actually a myth. They're red.

Hi Pedro, I have no experience with the so called benchmark coil pack, but the R8 coil packs have been very good to me. The consensus online seems to be that the R8 are the ones to go with once you need a replacement.

Thank you, my friend.

one cylinder missfire is only due to spark plug or coil pack only not processing well, but your engine shaking could be something else like check the engine mount or something like that.

If you don't have a cel check mounts

David Villegas why do U need to disconnect battery ???

That's a different engine

As far as I know it is 1-3-4-2. Number 1 is the one at the pulley side and 4 at the gearbox side.

check for oil in the spark plug holes that's the only way it would cause a misfire edit: that's the only way the gasket could cause a misfire recommend to change the gasket and plugs I just did the gasket a few days back and have only plugs left to do but car runs way smoother I also had oil in the spark plug holes 1&2

@@dhavalbhandari5554 thanks! that would make sense, since it only misfires after driving for a long time

@@lenamazel33 no problem let me know how it goes. also if there is no oil in the spark plug hole then you may have other issues other than the coil and plugs

most likely 2 other things: carbon buildup in air intake port (very likely). and second likely: injector clogged. So put some fuel cleaner first, for 2500km (5 bottles). if no improvement: remove intake manifold and clean valves.

@@vindieu thank you!! I've since sold the car and bought a Mazda 3s, because I just couldn't deal with the carbon buildup anymore. But you were right, it was carbon in the cylinder, and wouldve had to be blasted out. When I replaced the PCV valve it was literally coated in carbon, and the cylinders were bad too. Smart catch!

1 liter per 800 miles is a lot, about double what my GTI consumes. Hard to say if its the turbo, you might want to have a shop try and diagnose this.

Mine averages about that much consumption

Hello friend...do you have oil consumption in 2.0T I’ have oil consumption ever time I fill the gas tank I fix ignition coil cover gasket spark plugs but still misfires Need more oil I’ need suggestions !! Help

Thanks for pointing this out! I have always thought the ticking sound is somewhat normal of these engines with aftermarket intakes, but now that you mention it, it has been rather loud. As far as I can tell the sound is the only symptom I have and it has been this way for at least 30,000 miles. I'm sure a little digging will give me the answer, but do you happen to know of any CEL that would be associated with this kind of wear?

I didn't have a CEL. After the plastic guide breaks free, the tensioner rod extends enough to compensate and keep chain tension. I had to take the cover off to check it, by that point you're committed.

I guess it is one of those things you can audibly diagnose but not know for sure until you have a look. My car currently have 83,000 miles, given that it seems to drive just fine despite the noise, I think I will give it a check around 100k. Again, thanks for the information!

No problem, good luck!

I thought the FSI came with Belt not chain.. TSI come chain

I have a 2007 MkV GTI with 182.000km on it. Used about 1L in 3.000km but I had an oil leak. I replaced valve cover gasket (very brittle...literally it broke in hundred pieces when removing it) and reasealed the vacuum pump that was also leaking. I also replaced the HPFP cam follower and put a new o-ring when reassembling it. Now the leakage is gone and it drinks about 1L in 7000km. I use 5w30 which definitely doesn't help... Next oil change maybe I'll go for a 5w40.

JC Mac that's what I'm thinking

Ben yeh he showed it while looking at the cover lol

They crack.

Hi! I am sorry to hear that the turbo replacement did not fix your issue. I will say replacing the valve cover cut back on my consumption by quite a bit, but now at 90,000 miles on my FSI I burn about a quart ever 2,500 miles. Before replacing the VC I want to say it was closer to a quart every 1,500 miles. What is interesting is that I recall VW saying that this kind of consumption is "normal" for these motors... I wish I still knew where I had read that. Oil consumption is definitely compounded by tuning and messing with the PCV system, such is the case with my car. So I think the take away is that at some level of consumption it is likely from a single serious issue that should be addressed, but if it is something like only pouring in an extra quart or 2 between oil changes, it is probably a number of ageing components of the engine/factors that might not be resolved with one job. With my car I have accepted the amount of oil consumption as "normal", and I'm at peace with it because it doesn't effect driveability at all. I am not sure all the details with your situation, like mileage, amount of consumption... but its something to thing about it, if the wild goose chase is worth it for a motor that is notorious for oil burn. Hope this helps.

It's 3 screws

@@cnmckenna 4

Thanks man. Pic at 10:45 definitely mine and my sloppy handwriting

+Jeton Balidemaj I respectfully disagree. I am burning about 0.5-1 quarts less of oil between oil changes.

Really? Did you change the pcv valve in front of the valve cover also?

I replaced the PCV with a BSH block off plate a while ago. The issue that was causing the majority of the burning oil was separation in the VC plastic. Piston rings are known to cause oil consumption on these cars, but I have had success with the VC replacement.

+Jeton Balidemaj Fixing a valve cover that is spewing oil isn't going to decrease the amount of oil lost?

Yeah if its leaking then thats obvious but these cars burn oil from the factory and the piston rings are the fix the manufacturer recommends and it always fixes the problem