2 Person Alpine Crevasse rescue

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2 Person Alpine Crevasse rescue

Рет қаралды 25,564

Күн бұрын

This video covers the rescue of a climber from a crevasse when the rope team is 2 people.
The video covers the direct pull rescue techniques making the mechanical advantage of 3:1 and also showing the transition to 5:1 if needed for the rescuer.
if you are looking for the 3 people rescue click here below:
• 3 Person Alpine Crevas...
if you want to learn the basic mountaineering knots click here:
• Mountaineering knots
if you want to join one of our courses in Iceland or Greenland:
www.nunatakadv...

Пікірлер: 19

@user-mq9vg4tv2u 2 ай бұрын

Thanks for sharing! Best instructions I have seen on 2 person pull system, especially on working around the braking knots. Clear and easy to follow! Braking the initial fall seems like the crux of a situation though. Bet in needs a good amount of practice!

@nunatakadventures66 2 ай бұрын

Thank you for your comment. It is indeed the hard part arresting the fall. We do not recommend it but the technical system could be useful anyways. For example if number 2 out of 3 falls in, you probably wont have enough extra rope to do any other system. Glad you found it helpful. Nicco Founder Nunatak adventures.

@chasethelights 2 ай бұрын

Thanks for this detailed video. I'll be doing a 12.5km traverse over a glacier in Alaska with one team member this late July, and this was good learning material in addition to an in person crevasse rescue course.

@nunatakadventures66 2 ай бұрын

Good to hear! And good luck on the trip

@johngo6283 2 ай бұрын

That is a very nice demonstration. Of course there are many many ways that you can approach this, and the choice that you made you demonstrated very well.

@nunatakadventures66 2 ай бұрын

Thank you!

@JD-ru1xd 3 ай бұрын

Excellent video, thank you so much.

@nunatakadventures66 3 ай бұрын

Thank you! Appreciate your comment.

@sattler8908 15 күн бұрын

Good clear video! Thanks for making! Curious about usefulness of a backup anchor or if there is a method that keeps the rescuer in the system with minimum slack so they can self arrest in case of anchor failure.

@nunatakadventures66 15 күн бұрын

Hi and thanks for your comment. I forgot to add in the video the fact that with 2 people team you always need to build 2 snow anchors (snow picket and one ice axe for example) and equalise it so in case one would fail there is another one.

@isaacwilk 2 күн бұрын

Thanks for the video, super clear! What is the rope clamp/ascender you are using in the video?

@nunatakadventures66 Күн бұрын

Thanks a lot. It is the Petzl micro traction.

2 ай бұрын

Hi, thank you for excelent video! Please what thicknesses of reep cords do you use? I am wondered if you have 9mm rope if you can use 6mm reep cords for all used purposes.

@nunatakadventures66 2 ай бұрын

Hi thank you for your comment. Yes you can but if you look for all purposes best 7mm cause you can use it to make anchors as well on ice climbing trips for example. But if you would own a glacier travel rope of 8mm you would need the 6mm cord to have good grip doing prusik hitches.

2 ай бұрын

@@nunatakadventures66 OK, thank you so much! Take care :)

@AndrewDale1986 3 ай бұрын

Good video, thanks for sharing! I have a question - is the assumption here that the tension on the rope will be too high to be able to undo the butterfly knots as they approach the traction device? Is it strictly speaking necessary to use the cordelette? Or does it just make it easier.

@nunatakadventures66 3 ай бұрын

Hi Andrew and thanks for your message. Indeed the tesion is too much to physically be able to undo the knot. So the method using the cordalette is necessary to put the tension beyond the butterly knot into the prusik to then undo the butterfly so the rope can be taken into the ratchet (micro traction). Not the only method but an easy one to practice. Hope this clarify :)

@tommyheap1994 2 ай бұрын

Hello! And thanks for the video. What length of rope were you using for this demonstration?

@nunatakadventures66 2 ай бұрын

Hi, thank you for your comment. In this case the rope is 40m, 9mm. The quickest rescue would be doing a “drop loop 2:1” (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/r7p4qct6tdmsqJs.htmlsi=X3avewYb3f5Hs373) but if the rope is not long enough, you have to do direct pull or 3:1 which is covered in the video you just commented