HOW TO CREVASSE RESCUE with Xavier De Le Rue

HOW TO CREVASSE RESCUE with Xavier De Le Rue | How To Xv

Рет қаралды 186,696

5 жыл бұрын

If you are crossing glaciers, it is worth knowing how to undertake a crevasse rescue, something hopefully you never have to use, but worth having in your toolkit.
In this episode of How To Xv I go through the steps of how to rescue someone who has fallen in a crevasse. Covering the steps you have to take, securing yourself, creating an anchor and belaying, this video will give you a basic overview of what to expect, but the reality is you need to get out there and practice this, because if / when it happens, just knowing the theory will only get you so far.
Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below.
Edit by: Tim Burgess
Motion Graphics by: FX Pergola.
Thanks to: Swatch, Smith, Rossignol & Crosscall.

Пікірлер: 131

@SCD7 5 жыл бұрын

Pretty sure the first setup is a 3:1 the load is shared across the 3 'legs' of the haul system. the additional carabiner is just a redirect and increases the load on the anchor by 25% or so, whereas pulling against the load reduces the load on the anchor.

@VincentLebeau-vlu 5 жыл бұрын

You're mentionning that you need to use the tblock to avoid slack if the anchor breaks, but if it breaks you're going to join your friend for a crevasse party...

@yannchevrier-foundy5063 5 жыл бұрын

You only get mechanical advantage from the loops that go through the prussik. One loop in the prussik and an extra on the anchor does not increase your force, it just redirects it and add friction.

@Lump1sh 5 жыл бұрын

7:08

@franckdebank 5 жыл бұрын

@user-dt9su4jr6c Жыл бұрын

Awesome video. Its not a 2:1 though its a 3:1 and then just a 3:1 with a change of direction added. But still works and great video.

@digger2094 5 жыл бұрын

This is a demonstration and I'm freaking out! So scary you guys are so brave!!!

@spencergiles72 4 жыл бұрын

Definitely would have set a prusik on the tensioned side below the traxion pulley and clipped it to the anchor as a backup before you walked towards the edge.Or, tie a stopper knot on the working end above the pulley to catch if the pulley fails.

@mikelindqvist8015 5 жыл бұрын

Fantastic Xavier! Great video! As they said before, no rambling, just facts. Great job and I too hope your channel will get noticed more soon. KZfaqrs are missing great content!

@you2tooyou2too 4 жыл бұрын

@mtcsypkens 5 жыл бұрын

Did this exercise in summer while trekking on a glacier with a guide. The weight of someone hanging on your rope is indeed much harder than expected, you really just get pushed against the ground. Scared me a little, since I wouldn't trust myself to hold someone if it would actually happen for real. This is indeed something you need to practise and secure asap to get the weight off. Was fun and educational doing it though, also playing the victim hanging in a crevasse (all secured of course).

@akilalika 5 жыл бұрын

Adding that last carabiner&loop into the system and pulling downslope made it less efficient actually

@aacc2622 4 жыл бұрын

What a badass demonstration!!! Love the background music 👍thanx 4 sharing

@gouyleonard8711 5 жыл бұрын

Très instructif. Merci

@MS-ut8fd Жыл бұрын

Great, informative video as always!

@arirahimzadeh 3 жыл бұрын

Thank You for all these Superb Movies !

@youlianaT 4 жыл бұрын

The coils of rope pulled your upper body when your partner "fell" into the crevasse. Ideally the coils should be locked off, so the force would pull on your harness, not on the coils and your shoulders. So easy to lose balance and hard to arrest a fall. Pulleys give mechanical advantage only when they are at the victim's side, not at the anchor. At the anchor they just reduce the friction.

@alpinewind3209 Жыл бұрын

This is one of the best essential crevasse rescue videos out there.

@sidlaus 5 жыл бұрын

Correct me if i'm wrong but the way i learned it that's a 3:1 ratio at the begining, not 2:1. 2:1 would be if you'd drop a loop down to the victim. Also adding that extra biner (when he says he's making a 3:1) is just adding friction to the system and making it harder for himself.