For the 3rd mount (right side of engine bay under battery), I would recommend bolting the mount the the chassis first. Starting with that hard to reach one in the back, and then bolting in the pin that connects it to the transmission. I bolted mine to the transmission first, and then tried doing that chassis bolt it in the back. Not only did it make it harder to line up, but my threads got messed up and it wouldn’t screw in. Hopefully someone that needs this stumbles across.

I plan on trying exactly this with my CRV, Im getting steering wheel and dash vibrations during idle so Im certain at least one or more of them are shot. Thanks for this video man, i really appreciate it and will be using it. Maybe ill film it too

Great to fall back in love with your car after some hard work enjoyed it a lot

Thanks for all the clues for doing this job. I am getting my Daughters car into shape will be doing all 4.

thanks a bunch. just got the front beast replaced!

Awesome job thanks for sharing I'm about to get done this task on Sunday and I'm confident I will get it done right

Great job !! Very Well explained as Well

Nice video, and great idea to fill them in with sealant. I replaced the motor mounts on my ‘04 CRV about a year ago, using those same cheap mounts (followed some other KZfaq video). Now, the car is having the same symptoms it had before, so one of the mounts must’ve gone bad and, sadly, I’m going to have to replace at least on of them again. I wish I’d thought of your sealant trick!

Thanks for this it's really helping me. BIG WARNING ON THE 1ST ONE BOTTOM BOLT!! DON'T USE A CLOSED END WRENCH BECAUSE THERE'S NOT ENOUGH CLEARANCE ONCE YOU GET IT OUT TO REMOVE THE BOLT OR THE WRENCH!!

Nice video! Will tackle this soon going to try at my shop after work might try supporting engine and lowering subframe a bit

Right on brother that was really good and I like that you showed the result that the end good job

That was a nice clean job very good thank you take care and I continually watch your videos take care My friend

I have to replace these on my 2005 CR-V as well. Mine is a stick shift so I believe that at least one of the mounts is different on my car compared to the automatics. This is also the same process on a Honda Element as well.

Thanks, I just did mine today. The easiest was the rear one and the most difficult the front one.

Hasznos videó!Köszönöm!

Yep. I have all 4 of these to change on my wife's honda element

Good job!

This is exactly the noise mine was doing when accelerating and couldn’t find any other video with the same issue. I did those today and bought mine mounts from the dealer because the aftermarket ones don’t last. They are expensive at $650 for all. There’s a reason why I could see them so cheap on Amazon at $70 for all of them. Thanks for the video👍

Nice vid !

Nicely done

I also found that the a arm bolts should be checked..... the passenger side front had a broken weld. So it would pop back n forth. Make the knocking sound.. I had to fix that . Tighten and spot weld again. It was a factory round nut with spot weld holding location only.

another one bites the dust! rear mount not bad but replaced anyway. way easier than front mount!

Salutes brother good job.

Great vid

I like ideas that are outside the box., There is a product called pourable urethane , it's similar to the stuff found in high performance control arm bushings .Usually motor mounts last a lifetime, so I 'm assuming you have checked for other stuff hitting the chassis etc.,Also what may help is the new synthetic transmission fluid (which is light years ahead of the old factory fluid) .It takes about 7.1 liters ,but only if you drain it completely .There are good u tube videos showing how this is done. I use the standard honda fluid in the rear differential because it is not the same as the transmission. These fluids should be changed if you want the transmission to last, & an added benefit is it will click immediately into gear without any free revving hesitation, which will increase the movement of the engine & transmission, & cause clunking.

Thank You

you can get to the lower mount top bolt by removing intake and battery, makes it so much easier but thanks mate

Thanks for that!

Super helpful. Thank you.

what radio did you put in it? does it work/sound well? thinking about doing this, and need something with bluetooth or apple carplay. thanks

Thank you for this video i followed it step by step and now my crv mounts are like new again. Thanks for the upload. would also like to ask what stereo you have installed because i have been looking to upgrade mine with a touch screen.

What is that cool mpg device next to your temp gauge? Awesome video I learned quite a lot from you.

Nice vid bro! Well explained, how's the 3M window weld holding so far? is this like the silicone sealant? Thanks.

I cannot for the life of me remove the rear mount which is supposed to be the easy one lol. I used a DeWalt impact wrench with "600 ft. lbs max breakaway torque" and it will not come out. I'm not sure what to do Do you think it's easier to remove the bottom 3 first and then the 17mm? I also am starting to think maybe i shouldn't support the transmission with a jack while trying to take the 17 mm out.

Hey brother thanks. Question any info on your radio. I’ll like to get one like that thanks

Who did the music?

Could you do a video on how you added the MPG indicator onto your dash? That looks pretty handy! Or at least link it.

For the passenger side engine mount is there a way to add window weld to that one?

What would happen if you continue to drive a car with bad engine mount? Will it cause engine failure?

Is there 3 mounts in total? If so is it front back and _?

what are you growing in your hoop house?

Does the engine swing forward or back when you shift between gears?

How's your filled mounts holding up? Also, don't forget to change your rear differential fluid. It kind of sounds like when your rear diff fluid goes bad.

I know it's been 2 yrs since this came out. But how does the mount holding up with the winter sealant

great job. how long did the new mounts last?

I am watching the video right now. Can you give me any updates? This is a 2 years old video, so it will be great if you tell me for how many miles you got to drive with that job?

It look like that one motor mount you picked up off the cardboard was defective because you could see through it

Did u window weld the mount that goes under the power steering reservoir??

I have heard that the after market mounts are stiffer and allow moar vibration at idle than the OEM. What say ye?

I bought these as you said and as soon as I install them my car start vibrating

Did this help with idle vibrations in drive?

Does that fit to crv 2004 2.0 AT AWD?

For my 2005 Honda crv (Automatic) , Honda dealership quoted me for parts and labor.. Front mount $331, Rear mount $357 and for Transmission mount $491. And that's before tax

What’s the quality of the motor mounts? I have the same issue.

Must warn people about using a empack gun you must be wear of the torque to not over torque.

Same amount of mounts on the manual transmission?

My issue exactly right now. Honda don't want to repair it...

3M silicon its good idea for mountains

Where is your fog light mounted

Do you HAVE to use Locktite or can you skip it?

Anybody ?how many engine mount does honda crv 2004 has

It's much easier if you lower the subframe

how they holding out?

Why would the transmission mounts cause a grinding sound?

Que marca son los soportes quiero comprar unos en amazon

What youtube acct you have for generating funds?

I have a 2003 CRV, changing the mounts is beyond my skill level but I like to watch. I have this soft rumbling sound near the firewall when the car is in drive, it goes away in neutral, i've had mechanics replace one of the mounts claiming the others are still good, sound persist, goggle the noise, they mentioned a loose heat shield. I just had another mechanic look at the car, he claims it the transmission mount but transfer case is broken so the mount can't be changed, he recommends a rebuilt transmission. Time for a 3rd opinion.....it's frustrating when you can't figure out the noise and mechanics have their opinion what is wrong.

Why not just use the window Weld on the old mounts?

I knew it! I have an Element and 1A Auto sent me a garbage ass TRQ mount for a CRV... no balance weight welded on. Like yours. The upper tranny mount should have a weight. They also sent me one so crooked and bent I would never be able to put it on anyway... almost did until it wouldnt go on straight. TRQ sucks... all chinese parts suck... Japanese parts are a lil spendy but they work

How long did these last?

Link to those mounts?

I just saw black screen in this video

Si dise que está en español porque no lo narra en español😡

stop paying for after-market from Amazon OEM

Dont do this..makes them to stiff and vibrates the crap of the dash..sounds like a good idea but i tried it its just to stiff!...i would go with just regular silicone cheap see through type???.. see for yourself..i had to do the job twice!

I tried this and my teeth almost vibrated out...to stiff i dont recomend this..save yourself time and frustration..money here is cheap but your time and frustration wasnt worth it!