Thank you for uploading this Video. i think because I never reset the parking brake I am now suffering with binding noises and excess heat. You are a diamond as I would never have found that reset wheel.

Lifesaver! spent a few hours troubleshooting my rear rotor until I found this. Thanks!

haha your comment of "Everyone just seemed to pull theirs right off!! That pissed me off!!" I just went through something similar with my 05 MDX. Researching for my wife's van as it's due so in advance thanks!

Thank You! I didn't find your video until I fought the first rotor off. Now I'm looking forward to the second one.

wow, finally, exact same issue with my '05, haven't retried yet but feel like I can get it now the secret is out, odd why this isn't addressed elsewhere, thanks for taking the time, appreciate it

THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! My van had been setting for nearly 2 years before I was able to spend some time and money on it. By then the rear wheels wouldn't even turn. The parking brake shoes were seized. No one ever addresses that kind ya dilemma. Thank you!!

You are the man!!! Thank you for posting this video. After a few minutes trying to remove the disk I realized I was going no we're and there I found your precious tip on how to remove it. Saved my day.🙏 Wish you a very blessed day!!! All the best!!!

This was SO helpful...my husband could not get the rear rotor off on our 2001 T & C van. After watching this video, (and echoing the same comments Justin did), he popped it off pretty quickly. Too bad he spent 30 minutes trying to strong-arm it off!!!!

Thank you so much your tip worked great, sanity saved (for now) no way were the rotors coming off beat on them like nobody's business . nothing, never would have figured safety brakes were the prob cause the hub would spin fine, anyway thank you again

Someone needs to spend $7 on a brake spoon! 😂 Good job figuring out a solution!!

I once had a 1980 Plymouth Fire Arrow made by Mitsubishi for Chrysler. It had all wheel disc brakes with a mechanical actuator incorporated with the rear disc assembly. I would have preferred that method over the one used here as well on my own 1998 model. They were nice to work with only one set of brakes in the package. I have a 1998 model unfortunately, the parking brake assembly does not have an "auto adjuster" like traditional brake drum & shoes. The only adjustment is via the adjuster wheel. According to the Chilton's service manuals, measure the inside diameter of the NEW "rotor/brake drum" assembly then set the brake shows via the adjuster 1/64" less than the diameter of the measurement for the drum. This allows clearance for the "rotor/brake drum" to slide on. You are correct in that the adjuster access window on the back side of the brake plate is in a VERY awkward position making adjustment nearly impossible. Once assembled try the Parking Brake from inside the vehicle. If it does not engage tight enough remove everything again and reset the adjuster closer, the rotor/drum might be more difficult to slide back on, if so remove and reset the adjuster again. The brake is just barely clear of the drum might be snug to get on, once on it should turn. Reassemble and try the brake again it should work properly. Also there may be a problem with the actuator cables if they do not move freely they are rusted internally try some WD40 on the length of the cable to penetrate work the brake from inside several times. Sometimes this will loosen them other wise the cables will require replacement. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the post! Mine are so bad, I removed the parking cable from the lever, then beat the lever with a sledge, still cant free it enough to spin the rotor. I have work ahead of me. At least I now know where the invisible sprocket is though!

Thank you very much! This video helped on my wife's Town and Country 2002'.

Thanks for the video! I was having a hell of a time trying to get the first one off. Never have done these. My aunt called me in a panic, so i told her to drop it off, and I’d take care of it for her. Started cussing myself 2 3/4 minutes in😆😆😆

Great vid. Wish I'd seen it before I did mine. Same year van, parking brake was rusted to h#ll. I purchased a 5 ton, 3 clamp hydraulic jack and had the rotor off in seconds. This was after beating the rotor and spraying rust remover and letting it sit for long periods. One of the best purchases I've made. Doing the other side took a small fraction of the time. I have another van rear brakes to do and I feel a lot more at ease about doing them.

I have a 1998 Chrysler T&C LXi AWD with disc brakes this is the same arrangement on the 1998. As you rightly observe the access port on the back of the brake plate housing is "REALLY difficult" to say the least. I ended up inserting 2 short about 14" long trim pullers behind the rotor opposite each other. By prying in an alternate fashion I was able to "walk" the rotor/brake hub assembly off of the wheel spindle. To be fair it did destroy the parking brake shoes but, that was of little concern as they needed to be replaced anyway as part of the total brake job. If worse comes to worse this works at least it did for me. Addendum: The above description is how I did the Passenger's side of the T&C. For the Driver's side it was more involved. I had to rent a 7 ton hub puller tool from O'reilly's as it has the largest grabbing arms. Assembled the puller on the rotor hub then used impact wrench to run the screw in to pull the rotor/hub assembly from the bearing spindle. The parking brakes shoes are I believe original to the vehicle due to the excessive corrosion and the condition of the material remaining on the shoes. Reassembled with new brake hardware everything now functions properly.

Behind The slot that you refer to is a cog wheel that has teeth on it, (The parking brake adjuster) its a simple matter to insert a small spoon handle or a piece of flat plate metal so that you can turn the cog either up or down, depending if you want to tighten the parking brake or loosen it, it is a very simple process, no matter how rusted the wheel cog is you will be able to turn it from outside the brake plate, all you have to do is apply heavy leverage with your piece of metal or a cut down spoon handle against the hole edges, therefore gaining extra leverage into one of the cog wheel teeth, which is beyond and just inside the aperture hole, you turn the wheel cog adjuster which causes the threaded bolt to lengthen out by putting pressure against the brake shoes. My car is 17 years old, and same as yours, and I have always been able to adjust the parking brakes from the exterior and without having to take the wheels off or the drums. It is impossible to use a long screwdriver to do the job of turning the brake adjuster cog as you wont be able to manoeuvre it, the trick is to use something sturdy but short to turn the wheel cog from the rear of the brake plate, when you have located the small tool into the hole you will feel it when it is in the right position located into one of the cog slots, you can just sense it, when you have turned the cog sufficiently to lock the shoes against the brake drum, then you back the cog off until the spinning wheel is just free of the shoes, then you just replace the 2 protective rubber boots back into the apertures. It is usually a 10 minute simple job to adjust both sides for me. Having The right tool is everything. (Note, if you had used a torch to look into the oblong aperture you would have visibly seen the brake adjuster cog about 2 inches away in the background and perhaps realised that you may have needed to turn it to loosen the shoes off allowing you to remove the brake drum)

I loved that u said everybody was able to pull theirs off and it pissed u off, lol. I said the same thing for 3 hrs last night 🤣

They make a little tool to adjust the rear brake pads. It's basically just an L-shaped screw driver with a thick blade. But it allows you to get in a tight space and use a rocking motion to quickly turn the spur wheel. And of course, applying and soaking with some kind of spray lube helps a lot. On some cars that little mechanism is an auto-adjuster. You back up at about 10 MPH and hit the brakes to adjust.

Good attempt, I must admit. However, everyone in need of doing this job should do some research before hand. Also buy the "Brake adjusting gear-wheel tool", yes, there is one. Up loosens and down tightens. Also, rule of thumb, when attempting to replace parking brake shoes, the hub bearing NEEDS to come off- to do this job correctly! It is very cumbersome to work back there, so the use of an impact ratchet with swivels would be very helpful, (if you have one). Also, the MAIN parking brake cable NEEDS to be disconnected from the Equalizer, (located under the left side pass seat) so that the "thing" you were tapping with a screwdriver (called the Brake Lever) can be loose. That cable is attached to the back shield by a 13mm bolt. Remove it so its easier to handle. I'm actually doing it again, except this time, EVERYTHING is going on NEW. Shield back plate, shoes, springs, lever and hub bearing. ABS sensor has to be disconnected too, it has a retaining C-clip. I am replacing everything bcuz its a nightmare trying to separate hub from plate. Good luck..

Thank you so much! only video talking about this issue.

just spent 5 hours with an 07 1 side 😒😒 great video

My driver side rear came off just fine and I thought I was going to be on a roll, then I went over to the passenger side rear and got all jammed up. I actually tried your tip before watching the video with no success but was able to spin that gear a bit with a tiny screwdriver. The shield behind the rotor was some what rotted giving me more access and if I had the rotor pulled forward i had a much better view of what I was doing from the side.

Good. I think that's the best way to adjust it is just take the whole drum /rotor off and then adjust it and then put it back on it should be a little bit loose

I had the same problem, thanks for the video.

Thanks for the video my guy!

Thank you . Great explanation

Omg...this might actually work for me! Thank you so much!!!! This has been a freakin nightmare! Tried to wrestle the damn thing off all day and I can't even continue in the morning thanks to mother nature having one of her hormonal mood swings and sending a God forsaken blizzard hereBut, again, thank you for making this video...could very well be my life saver! Nikki

I'm having this issue I was able too hit the backside with a rubber mallet too loosen it up too spin the tire then I took a spray bottle and put engine oil in it and sprayed it with that soo it wouldn't happen again still working no problems

Just had the same problem. In my situation the little arm that the cable connects to was seized up in the hinge. I had to sand it and grease it after taking it off and beating it for a while

they make a curved tool to spin that adjuster or you can bend a screwdriver at almost a 90 degree and have room to move your adjuster

Thank you. What a pain.

You the man I was ready to torch this rotor off

I used a 3” screw. The gear was right in the center of the slot

So in all honesty liked the video not because I had this problem, but because I could never find the fucking plug for the gear...

sounds like that cable e break needs replacing. be sure to use the break oil.

You were supposed to first relieve the cable under driver side, remove the 13mm bolt that holds the cable to the back plate, push cable forward and off that lever. Also, you needed the correct tool for adjusting that gear, it's a brake tool that's a 1/4 bent and fits perfect from the back. I'm wondering how you proceeded to removing the brake shoes and linkage, without removing the hub.

That was called a brake adjusting tool, years ago. I have several, somewhere.

Hopefully your video will help I’m in the same issue

sprayed with rust remover, banged for a half an hour, no joy, watched this video, banged on the lever, rotor popped right off - just sayin'

You’re awesome

And that star-Gear the bottom spring sits on the gear making it impossible to turn !

thank you

Did not help it’s all the to the back and my rotor will not turn

Taping it that way. Is that towards the rear of the van?

This is a video of how NOT to do it!