That’s why I do it, to help or make it easier for the next guy. Thanks for your support and feedback.

@@restoroosterohv yeah well i might have spoke too soon, after putting bike back together i rode down and got gas the clutch was/is working flawlessly came home the bike sat for a few hours then jumped on it made it half block and suddenly a loud ticking started coming out of the case and the engine started running really rough like it jumped time, i babied it home and while idling really badly i went to pull the oil fill cap to see if i could tell what was ticking but the pressure blew the cap out of my hand and tons of smoke came out of the oil fill hole, can you think of anything i could have done wrong just changing the clutch and springs that could have caused this, the bikes only got 13k miles on it, i've done lots of clutches in my 40+ years owning bikes and never had anything like this happen before............

@@abruptlyblunt Silly question, did you have the oil level topped off? If you followed my vid, there isn't anything you could have put together incorrectly. You may need to pull the cover to be sure no bolts backed out inside. One of my subs posted this a while back you may want to check as it has to do with the oil pump drive: "Bonus tip, there's four little pegs on the drive shaft that have to fit into the back of the clutch basket. After putting the basket in, lightly push inward and spin the oil pump chain directly below the clutch to ensure it's seated. If it moves, it's not seated."

It’s been a while. You’re probably right. Thanks for letting us know and for your support.

Appreciate the feedback. Glad I could help.

Appreciate the feedback. Glad I can help.

Appreciate the comment. Honda does recommend staggering the notch for the last friction plate. It is designed to ease the stress on the pack as the clutch is engaging. I should have clocked it for the sake of the video as I have had many comments on this. The fact is that it is not a failure waiting to happen if the discs are all lined up. It’s the way we have done it for years and some baskets don’t even have the provisions to do this. 1000+ miles on this bike since install and no problems (even with the cheapo clutch). Good eye though.

No problem, you’ve got this.

Yeah, you’ve got a little ways to go. Hang in there.

Thank you for your feedback and support!

Thank you for the feedback. You’ve got this!

Thank you for your comment and support.

Thank you for your feedback and support!

Are you talking about the last friction disc to go in? If so, yes Honda suggests that disc should go in clocked one groove off from the rest. Some aftermarket clutch baskets don't even have the provisions for that smaller groove and all the plates line up with no offset. I installed mine all lined up as I have done for all the years installing these clutches. To date, it is working great. I have gotten a bunch of comments about this and should have put it as the manual states to avoid the confusion for you guys. Appreciate the feedback and thanks for your support.

@@restoroosterohv Glad to hear you know of both ways to install the clutch. Unfortunately many people don’t. Have a great day.

Thank you for your support and feedback

You’re welcome. Thank you.

Absolutely, it's just pricey (for the "name brands"). Not sure about the T-6 being okay for wet clutches. It does have a picture of a motorcycle on the bottle but nothing that says that its suitable for wet clutches. I'll do some research on it. Thanks for your comment.

Thanks for your comment and your support. Glad you enjoyed the video.

Glad I can help. As of 2022-3-18 this is available. www.ebay.com/itm/292561161627

Thanks for the feedback. You can do it.

I wish I could be more help to you. Not being able to see what you are working on and if everything is properly in place. I would strongly recommend a service manual. Use my affiliate link to eManualonline.com. They already have great prices with an enormous catalog of manuals and if you use my discount code RESTOROOSTER22 you'll get 22% off until August 31,2024! shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=510988&u=4229791&m=49176&urllink=&afftrack=

It’s always best to try and warm the engine before chancing the oil. In a lot of the builds I do, I don’t have that luxury as either the engine is damaged when I get it or after repair I don’t want to run the old oil through a new engine. Thanks for watching.

Yes. Many have mentioned this since posting this video. I should have clocked the disc as per the manual at least for the video however, it will not affect clutch operation in any way. Honda does this to reduce stress on the basket. Aftermarket baskets don’t have these provisions and all discs will be stacked. Thanks for your comment.

@@restoroosterohvThat's great! Thanks for your reply!🙂

All of the plates are critical.

Mine is exactly doing that after I took apart and put back. I exactly put back the same way that it came out . Did you firgure out why it's doing this. Please help

Same issue. Browsing for an answer if anyone has one..

Yes, there absolutely is.

Also the small disk was on the inside not on the outside

If you need a downloadable service repair manual for any of your projects, use my affiliate link to eManualonline.com. They already have great prices with an enormous catalog of manuals and if you use my discount code RESTOROOSTER22 you'll get 22% off until August 31,2024! shareasale.com/r.cfm?b=510988... Discount code: RESTOROOSTER22

Thank you for watching and for your support

They do make a tool that will hold the center clutch hub. It is much easier to use an impact gun to remove the nut. If you don’t have access to that, you can shift the bike up to high gear, hold the rear brake and break the nut loose with a ratchet. Keep in mind, there is a thin locking washer behind that nut and the tabs are bent over the flat sides of the nut, use a screwdriver and hammer to tap it away from the nut before trying to unscrew it.

Thanks for your comment. Yes, according to the manual, Honda states to clock the last plate. I rarely do. Some aftermarket baskets don’t even provide the notches. 1000 miles on the clutch with nary an issue.

If you've got the correct amount of steel and fiber discs, in the correct order and the proper freeplay, the clutch may be incorrect. It wouldn't be the first time I have seen it.

Unfortunately it is probably stripped.

@@MrPetRooster I eventually got it. Had to use a good bit of leverage and wedge a screw driver in there to lock the bish in place. These YT guys had me laughing with every video though. "Just twist the nut off with your fingers, holding it in place with your thumb to stop spinning"

@reggiet1086 sorry, I thought you were saying the nut was spinning. I use an impact to remove the nut.

Appreciate the comment. Yamaha does recommend staggering the notch for the last friction plate. It is designed to ease the stress on the pack as the clutch is engaging. I should have clocked it for the sake of the video as I have had many comments on this. The fact is that it is not a failure waiting to happen if the discs are all lined up. It’s the way we have done it for years and some baskets don’t even have the ability to do this. 1000+ miles on this bike since install and no problems (even with the cheapo clutch). Good eye though.

@@MrPetRooster Thanks for the reply. Very nice video btw. I recently did the clutch on my 2001 Honda Shadow 600 and forgot to clock it and had to redo that portion. I wasn't aware of the purpose for offsetting the last plate. Thanks for explaining. Be well.

It was about 9k. Clutch was still fine just grabbing a bit further out. Clutch wear will depend on operator abuse.

@@restoroosterohv I installed stiffer springs on mine that took care of it

I changed the gearing on my shadow as well to drop the rpms on the highway. Running the stock springs with no adverse affects at all.

I’m not sure about absolutely taking off the exhaust but it certainly will make it easier. I believe that Honda wants you to replace all fasteners when they are removed but who does that?

Thanks for your support.

Being that the oil is affordable I can change it more often especially on my off-road machines. I am not hard on my equipment personally so I could continue to follow recommendations.

The Rotella diesel oils have a descent amount of detergents and anti-wear additives (boron, phosphorus, zinc, calcium and magnesium) akin to or better than “premium” oils at a great price. I have been using T4 in my KX450F (all my bikes) for many years with tremendous abuse. The oil is clean with no metal when changing. Yes, you can use the T4 in your Yamaha. Don’t use any synthetic oil with the wet clutch unless it is designed for it.

I appreciate the feedback. I am aware that some manufacturers suggest clocking the last friction disc by one groove. This clutch had never been replaced and was not staggered when I took it apart so I reassembled it as it was. Honestly, it really won’t make any difference.

It was staggered I had to look at your video twice. And it does make a difference, just like the torque spec matters on the clutch assembly nut. Difference between hope it lasts and I know it will. 🤷‍♂️

I have pics of when you took it apart I screenshot that I can send you.

Thought so

Was about to replay with same thing, all Honda Shadows have that last smaller grip disc going into single disc slot at outter edge. Nice to see Im not the only one that caught that.

Yes. Tighten slowly in a star pattern.

@restoroosterohv I did that but I can't get my clutch to engage

@34feemster it’s not installed correctly

I think I got the wrong clutch kit but thanks man I appreciate the help

@34feemster you’re not the first to have that problem and that could certainly impact your clutch engagement.

Thank you for your support and feedback

2.7 cuartos estadounidenses con cambio de filtro

All the friction discs but one will be the same. The odd disc will be the one toward the outside and clock it off a notch into the shallow grooves of the clutch basket. It honestly won't make a difference if you do or not but that is what Honda recommends.

I believe it should be the same.

I believe they are the same through 2007. www.ebay.com/itm/292561161627?fits=Submodel%3AVT750DC%7CYear%3A2006%7CModel%3AShadow+Spirit+750%7CMake%3AHonda&hash=item441e010d9b:g:1YwAAOSwQN1a9zfz&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAABEHu7FSGx074xHnfMxV%2B8CwzPIteKGMceQzaX5fU3TSlHC0Dk7mBlExEpXIeePSPZC9OgTY5Cx5ENgSVxeZmp0IHFjix3CsJgvZlsNiQXpiADkOx9s0sBVls%2FGIwRVllaxWAs3fRO%2FmmGfAS4OEKH8J0IkWtVw9VwxGm54OMeNcxMzJmQeyU6xLYPo2y6ZLLBleCWJJyqf%2FNnrdDEBaciWD2Q6vMCz2UPD%2BFvlx5xEH%2FetYe%2BTYun6BvzZ%2B1uC68xGEZhuXwUbsPjHoknGAmqdte89%2FzBnydvRvxSuuawLbfjIn7GWrOQ2gE30bsFcD0wDxNK9P6XwN3kwsh7qNLLF32NQhDaKRnWzAbG%2BQtiwizF%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6KPnp-_YA

Yes sir, thanks for pointing it out. It has been discussed in detail in the comments.

Are you sure that you put the washers back where they belong?

@@restoroosterohv yes I even pinned the metal thing I know where I went wrong now, I didn't fill the oil filter with oil so the 2.5 quarts is not enough. Question is Lucas oil good for bikes I use it in my trucks??

@@randycarr2650 glad you were able to figure it out. Most oils will be fine in your bike. I would caution against any semi or full synthetic oils unless they are specifically designed for wet clutch systems. I just prefer the shell Rotella diesel oil because it has higher antiwear additives similar to the higher end oils at a great price

@@MrPetRooster I called the honda guys and they said to back the filter off to release the air bubble that's making the knock wish me luck lol your video was great and thank you for getting back to me be safe my friend

Great bike, isn’t it!

@@MrPetRooster can believe how new they look for being 20 years old

@@pappydanny58 when you make it right, you don’t t change much.

@@MrPetRooster only thing I don’t like about it is to top heavy for a 750. I had a Honda V45 before that wasn’t

When it starts slipping. Really depends on your riding style. A bike can go its entire life on the factory clutch if oil changes are done regularly and it isn’t abused.

I bought my kit off of eBay. It is actually cheaper now. Can't speak to the longevity of it but it works well. www.ebay.com/itm/292561161627

Never a dumb question. Say you are comparing a 15W-40 HDEO or Mixed fleet diesel oil, with a 10W-40 conventional passenger car oil. The 15W-40 "diesel" oil wins in a lot of things: It will have stouter base stocks. Viscosity is pretty much guaranteed to be higher ( viscosity at 300F ) They pretty much always have high levels of ZDDP which is an additive used to prevent camshaft wear on old flat tappet engines. It will probably have a Higher Total Base Number, which is the oil's ability to fight off acids. It will probably have more detergents and dispersants which will keep the engine clean. They require less Viscosity index improvers, which means the oil will maintain its viscosity for longer, and also VIIs create deposits when destroyed and form deposits inside the engine. It will probably even be cheaper than a 10W-40 Passenger car oil! Keep in mind oil companies have in mind that a 15W-40 HDEO will be used in equipment that is worth sometimes hundreds of thousands of dollars, they cannot afford to have an engine failure caused by one of their oils, so they put a lot of effort into designing these oils. Plagiarized from the internet, describes it the best haha.

@@restoroosterohv well, I'm in the trucking business and have nere really thought about it. Thanks!

I’ve never seen happen but it is a machine, anything is possible. I would pull the cover off and see if anything looks strange.

As long as it is a 750, I believe it is the same.

Can confirm.

Sorry to hear you are having trouble. Email me at restoroosterohv@gmail.com with your contact info.

Your clutch cable might have snapped.. mine did.

Yes, Honda suggests that disc should go in clocked one groove off from the rest. Some aftermarket clutch baskets don't even have the provisions for that smaller groove and all the plates line up with no offset. I installed mine all lined up as I have done for all the years installing these clutches. To date, it is working great. I have gotten a bunch of comments about this and should have put it as the manual states to avoid the confusion for you guys. Appreciate the feedback and thanks for your support.

@@restoroosterohv i have installed the pads and when put the cover back on and re attach the clutch cable it wont engage the clutch it is all lose at my lever and doesn't spring back or have resistance. like my push rod for the clutch is not engaging, like the rod is not hitting it or something. and when ya install the pads should the inner part be able to spin when i tighten down the locking nut before installing the clutch springs and plate it stops being able to spit.

@@nottogood415 When the springs are tightened, the entire unit will be locked together as one. Did you adjust the cable to take the slack out? Also, are you sure you put the pusher back in the outer clutch cover (15:05 in the video)?

@@restoroosterohv never had to take the pusher out. the lever thing you attach the cable to is really easy to push to the right like how it gets pulled by the clutch cable. i can do it really easy by hand there is no tension. ok and before the springs because when i tighten up the center clutch nut. i can't move it either is it meant to be all locked together then as well. because there is no movement what so ever when try spin it .

@@nottogood415 if you can’t turn anything, my guess is you may have dropped a space/washer or it is not put together in the correct order. www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/motorcycle/2003/vt750dca-a-shadow-spirit-750/clutch