It was "easier" than I thought it would be, but it was still intimidating since if you make a mistake it can be really bad. Thanks for watching!

Insane you've had it for so long. Had mine from 2003 - 2011. Basic car but it came in handy.

@@Sturmgeist702 Yeah, it really saved me a lot of money. Would like to keep it for longer if possible. Right now in the process of changing 1) Inner tie rods (both sides), 2) Outer tie rods (both sides), 3) Tie rods boots (both sides), 4) Lower ball joint (left), and 5) Control arm with ball joint (right). Making my first ever KZfaq video on this. If anyone is interested can share the link once I’m done. Currently waiting on the control arm to come. Planning to get everything done before weekends.

Yeah, that first cranking... Nail biting. Very rewarding results, but definitely had me on the edge of my seat until I heard it running.

Thanks for watching!

Thanks for watching! Mine is still running great. It is my commuter car and I have 20k on the repair already. Good luck with your repair!

@@DoItMyselfGarageThank you sir! How long did this take you? Sorry if you mentioned it in the video, I didn’t catch that

@@damon323I did it over a weekend while filming. Probably about 8 hours total work, but it was my first time, so I went slowly and carefully. You will definitely need someone to help with the timing belt tensioning if you are removing that part.

@@DoItMyselfGarageOk thank you!

@@DoItMyselfGarageI’m sorry, one last thing…what did you mean at the end of the video when you said the cam can be rotated 360 degrees. Did you mean like you are supposed to turn it twice in to top dead center instead of once? Is that why it didn’t want to fire up first try? Sorry for the questions, I’m not very experienced

I believe so, although I've never had to replace mine. Definitely a wear item and something you want to replace if it is leaking due to it's proximity to your timing belts.

You have to take off the bottom cover (or at least loosen it quite a bit), so that requires taking the serpentine belts and bottom pulley off. You have to unbolt the power steering pump to fish the sensor through the gap. I don't think you can get the sensor behind the timing belt without loosening, but it's worth a try.

⁠@@DoItMyselfGarageso do I only need to just take off the belts and bottom pulley and then the cover or do I need to take off every single pulley then the cover

@@Vorah ​@Vorah Just the bottom pulley should allow you to get under the cover. You might have to remove the water pump pulley if you can't get the cover to move out of the way to get to the sensor. I've never done it this way since both times I've been in there was to replace the belts. It's definitely not designed for easy sensor replacement.

@@DoItMyselfGarage ill give it a shot lol thank u for helping and you gotta love Mitsubishi 😂

Congratulations!

Belts can go on anywhere, it is the 4 timing marks on the sprockets (1 on Cam, 1 on crank, 1 on oil pump shaft(toward front) and one on the balance shaft back and up a little) that matter. All 4 must be lined up to start with. Once you have it all locked down and have the tension set they should never jump cogs. Timing cover has gasket built into it. It isn't sealed super tight like something with a chain/oil splashing around would. If you line up all the marks, then everything will be lined up correctly. Kinda trusted the internet on the TDC and it worked just fine. Make sure you find diagrams for your engine. Marks can be in different places on similar engines.

@@DoItMyselfGarage thank you so very much. That was the best video I found. I will look into how to find top dead center on that engine as well. I'm glad that the timing belt doesn't have marks on it though. My other car has chains with marks. So the sprockets have to be lined up as well as the correct marks on the chain too..ugh😓🤪🤪

It WILL fail at some point. The only question is when and how much damage it will do since these are interference engines. It wasn't a terribly difficult repair, just took some time for me since I was trying to film and be careful not to mess it up. This was my first modern 4cyl timing belt replacement.

I've always used Prestone in all of my vehicles. This is a GREEN colored antifreeze concentrate that I mix 50/50 with water. I know some of the new cars have other recommendations, but I've never had an issue. I would say that you want to avoid mixing the types as that may cause issues with them interacting with each other.

Yeah, unfortunately most modern engines are interference designed. You will most likely have a few bent valves at the very least. Have you checked Jasper Engines yet? I've never dealt with them personally, but I've had them recommended to me by others for situations like this. Basically you swap your core for a rebuilt engine with a warranty.