@@brennanhyde464 you’re welcome. Please look at some of the comments though… there used to be a couple things to try before replacing the clutch.

Thank you. It’s a pretty simple process but one thing I highly recommend is to make sure both holes in the clutch reservoir are cleaned. Use a torch cleaner with a super small wire to clean out the return line (small hole). Many people think the clutch is slipping when what’s really happening is the fluid is not making it back to the reservoir hence they think the clutch is slipping. This bike had that problem which they never found until the clutch was completely shot. Good luck and thank you for the compliment.

@pilgrimsgarage I appreciate the tips, but I think I'll have to replace O-rings and seal for the slave cylinder because I've repeated the process 5 times and still getting air bubbles 🫧 or probably rebuild the clutch entirely! It's a 2000 Suzuki intruder vs800 with 23k but I love it and can't let go 😎 thanks again

@@HanzoAnssorri I have a video replacing that too…it’s a breeze

@pilgrimsgarage I'd definitely check that video, and if you're thinking of video for how to re-do the entire clutch and covering all details that's would be great! Thanks 👍

I have a few videos on it but it was a friends bike that he just recently sold to my disappointment.

@@pilgrimsgarage Yeah these are nice machines. Some of the tech on them is getting really old and it's sometimes harder to find a good guide not to break something.

Thank you for the kind words. DEFINITELY start at those ports in the reservoir.

De nada. Si es posible, quite la cubierta del depósito del embrague y limpie primero el pequeño agujero para la línea de retorno. Es común que esto esté enchufado haciendo que el embrague se pegue. Usa un pequeño trozo de alambre para meterlo en el agujero.

Debería ser un géiser cuando bombees el embrague. Haz esto antes de reemplazar el embrague para asegurarte de que no sea solo la línea de retorno. Espero que esto ayude. Gracias, amigo mío y buena suerte.

I tried to go from English to Spanish. I hope it came out ok.

One more thing I want you to do…when you pull the hydraulic reservoir cap off, use a very small piece of wire or the smallest torch cleaner that the kit has. There is a very small hole in front of the plunger hole that you should run that wire or torch cleaner through. It is the return for the fluid from the Slave cylinder. That has a tendency to plug and give the illusion of a slipping clutch. Just be sure when you release the clutch that you get a small geyser or pressure from that little hole. It will save you some time. Thank you for the compliment.

Thanks Roger. Well if you ever do a clutch on an Intruder… now you know 😉. Thanks brother

Yes, totally check those two holes first. I literally had the smallest one spit fluid at me when I did it. This bike had 28,000 miles on it. Thanks for the compliment and happy riding.

​@@pilgrimsgaragehow would the holes get clogged?

@@LearningWithTitus from what I gather, the fluid gets old and maybe breaks down? I’m not sure but when I changed this fluid it resembled chocolate milk. I literally cleaned out the hole (wish I would’ve filmed it) and it spit out at me. I’m not sure how the contamination happened but it did. Maybe poor seals on the master cylinder? From what I’ve experienced it’s pretty common in these Suzukis. That’s the reason I noted it.

@@pilgrimsgarage so take the top off the reservoir near the handle an I'll see it? Do I have to bleed it after? An how do I if so?

@@LearningWithTitus yes take the cover off and you should be able to see it. You have 2 holes. One is for the plunger and the other is a return or relief. Use a very small piece of wire or a torch tip cleaner (you can get these at any parts store…typically $5) and put it in that hole. How you can check if it works is pull the cover off and squeeze the clutch. If you get a little geyser or spurt straight up when you release the clutch then it’s ok. If you don’t then it’s plugged. You do not have to bleed it unless it’s out of fluid.

Thank you. It’s a pretty easy install but read some of the comments. Before replacing the clutch, clean out the return hole in the clutch reservoir. It’s all in the comments.

Nice!!! It’s all good. If you have this kind of Suzuki and are having clutch issues, be sure to read some of the comments. There are things to try before you go that far in depth with the clutch replacement. Thank you for the compliment though…have a great day.

Yeah, I’ve put that in many of the comments. I should’ve made a video on that but I didn’t. I do that every time I change a hydraulic clutch or slave cylinder.

Explain? I like this topic, come across a recently overhauled 800cc but clutch slips a little bit on open taps

@@mikemeets8873 2 things to look for 1st is the little compensating hole in the bottom of the clutch master cylinder. 2nd is the clutch condition and pressure plate springs. If the compensating hole is open and the clutch still slips then pull the cover off and inspect the clutch. If it looks worn and burn replace the clutch AND springs. If the clutch looks fine only replace the springs. I use the EBC replacement springs.

You’re welcome.

Yes it’s almost identical other than the exhaust supports and your clutch has 8 bolts versus 4 on this one. Wisconsin doesn’t have a helmet law either plus, I’m not terribly bright 😉

Honestly, I think it was just under 4 quarts. You just have the site glass to fill it and once you start it the filter takes about a 1/2 pint. I think you’re correct though…I think I may not have said how much. Sorry about that

No stress, common sense tells you to refill oil but some first timer will start the bike up with no oil 🤣... wait... first timers would not make it that far anyways 🙈

The torque wrench is a tool shop brand. I got it from Harbor Freight. The springs I used came with the kit and they work really well providing a strong grip to the clutch but I think that Partzilla has different sizes. We have about 2200 miles on this clutch and springs now and it’s excellent. Thank you for the compliment I’m glad it helped you out.

If I wouldn’t have filmed it, it probably would have taken me about an hour and a half. Hardest part was actually removing the gasket from the cover. 20 years made it a bit on the hard side. It was a breeze otherwise.

Thank you. I hope to help everyone who needs to do this…it’s a breeze

I will check with him. They’re not terrible to do. I use shop manuals most of the time.

@@robertojesusgonzalez yes I changed the filter too

You might be able to reuse the friction plates if you scuff them up. Use steel wool or a scuff pad. Make sure that they are clean before you put them in. 80 to 100 inch pounds is about 8 foot pounds. One thing I want you to do before replacing the clutch is pop your hydraulic reservoir off and use a piece of wire to clean out the small hole in front of the plunger on the reservoir. You have to make sure that the clutch can back bleed. If that is plugged, it will make it feel like a slipping clutch. Thank you for the compliment, and I hope it all works out for you.

@@pilgrimsgarage Thank you so much.! My clutch slips alot when it's cold but then when it's hot it dosen't.. u think that could be due to old clutch fluid or u think that really is the clutchpads cuse they expand when they get hot.?

@@pilgrimsgarage Does the friction plates wears down or do they keep the thickness?

@@honda4185 no they should not wear down. The only way they would wear down would be if the clutch was completely shot and there was metal on metal.

​@@pilgrimsgarageOkey thank you. How thick is the new clutch pads when new?

I believe that was a factory backrest. It wasn’t my bike so I can’t speak for it.

Uh yeah…that…uh…well…this one had been modified by yours truly. I honestly didn’t know they had pins in them. The good news is that loctite works great when you put them back in.

Thank you. I’ve done half a dozen Harleys but never a Suzuki. It’s easier then a Harley for sure. Thanks for the compliment my brother!

You’re welcome. Be sure to read some of the comments on this video. Be sure the clutch reservoir return line is clean. It’s a common problem on these bikes. Lots of info in the comments here.

It should be very similar except for the exhaust and footpegs.

The link is in the description. One thing I want you to look at before changing it. In the hydraulic reservoir there are 2 holes, one for the supply for the plunger (large hole) and the second is a return (very small hole). Use either a very small piece of wire or a small torch cleaner with the smallest wire to clean out that return line. How you can check it is if you have the cap off and you squeeze the clutch and release it it should cause a small geyser out of that hole. It shows the return releasing the slave cylinder back to engaged. If it doesn’t then that hole is plugged. If it is plugged it won’t let the clutch re-engage properly making the clutch slip. Give that a try before replacing the clutch…it takes 2 minutes. If you’re near central Wisconsin and you want to do it here, you’re more than welcome to come over😊

It ended being the fluid was so old and relief port was rusted shut. Opened port, put fresh fluid in and it's not slipping now. That little port in the master releases pressure. Being clogged it wasn't allowing the clutch to fully engage.

@@smalliehuntermatthubbard2539 fantastic!!!! Nice job!!

​@@pilgrimsgarageThat, my friend, is awesome. What a nice guy! Too bad I live way out in Phoenix!

So happy I found this video! I have the exact problem described above on my 92. Started as a slip and now clutch won’t disengage at all. Lever seems to have too much pressure. I can actually start the bike without even pulling in the clutch. After reading your comment above I pulled my cap and there is absolutely No movement in the fluid. That tiny hole must be completely blocked. Now to find a wire small enough and go from there. I was ready to trailer this thing off to a repair shop but now I feel I know enough from watching your video to dig into this further. I’ll update after I clean that port if it was the cause. Thanks again for a thorough and detailed video and comment section!!👍🏼

So my friend sold the bike last fall and he put over 5k miles on it last summer. He had zero issues with the clutch. If you read some of the comments that others had written on here you’ll see there is a few tips I’ve given when replacing or diagnosing the clutch problems that these bikes have had. As far as the brand, I think the clutch is fine for the price. It all depends on how you ride the bike. I e had clutches last 2500 miles and clutches that last 25000 miles. It’s all how you ride it. Quite honestly without filming I think I could’ve done this job in about an hour with my lift and maybe 1.5 on the ground…it’s really simple. If you’re near central Wisconsin, bring it over…we can do it together.

@@pilgrimsgarage Thanks brother but I'm from Mexico City. So it's a bit far for me hahaha but could I ask you any questions?

@@infoVn800 no. It’s still fine to this day. If you want to you can but I’d recommend high tack or something thin.

I believe they are the same thing. Amazon suppliers sometimes change their descriptions but this link was the right clutch.

TY out of the blue my clutch started slipping in 4th and 5thFluid is clean, comp hole is clear. Someone knowledgeable with these bikes told me to replace the springs before replacing the clutches. I'm going to pull it all apart and inspect the clutches but I want the kit on hand if I need them. @@pilgrimsgarage

It takes a while to bleed to the slave cylinder. Try this, in one of my latest videos I changed the master cylinder on a Polaris Sportsman and I did a back bleed. Basically what I did was fill up a syringe with brake fluid and put it on the bleeder at the caliper and pushed it back through the system. It worked very well. I’ve been told that’s a great way to bleed out a clutch too. If that doesn’t work just open the bleeder and see if it will gravity bleed. Then pump the heck out of it. I had to change the slave cylinder on that bike too and I had to bleed it out…that’s also in my videos. I hope this helps.

Read some of the comments and it might help you troubleshoot before you get to deep into it. The 1400 is almost identical except it has 8 bolts instead of 4 for the clutch assembly… it’s a piece of cake

That is for the pcv. As far as the best clutch company, I’m not sure, I put a link in the description of the clutch I used. We have 4000 miles on the clutch now with no problems. She and her husband took their bikes all the way to Washington and back. I do not have an intruder group but I’m sure there is some kind of group out there. I was just fixing this one for him.

I’m not sure but I think it is. Look at the link and see if it has a year range.

@@pilgrimsgarage it actually doesn’t mention the VS platform at all in that link. The link you have posted is for the VL intruder. But from what I’ve read and threads I’ve gone through, in the mid to late 90’s the VL was just a VS with extras to make it look more high end.

@@caseytanneberg1 ah gotcha. All I did was search this bike on google and it came up with this clutch kit. After a bit of research it turned out to be the correct clutch. I’m not sure on your year. If you’re in central Wisconsin, bring it here and we’ll do it together… no charge my brother

@@pilgrimsgarage if I was close I’d absolutely take you up on that offer! I’m in VA. Was asking in reference to the 96 I just picked up after my 95 was stolen the beginning of June.

@@caseytanneberg1 ugh…some people nowadays have no shame… sorry to hear that. Well, hopefully the new one will give you what you want. Take a road trip up here and we’ll get it done😉

De rein. Roule predemment mon ami.

Bonjour référence du kit complet

@@norbertbulot443 le lien est dans la description.

Muchas Gracias