20 bucks says it was the one microswitch on one or both of the rear sliding door closer motors not being activated because the mechanism that animates the automatic latch gets all gooped up with crap and the grease that lubricates the mechanism gets all thick and gross from surreptitiously and quietly gathering for itself a decade's worth of various contaminants which causes a malfunction of the mechanism in which the aforementioned contaminated grease interferes with the cycle of the mechanism responsible for animating the door's rear latch by virtue of the contaminated grease disallowing full rotation(or full return) on one of the cams which prevents the cam from coming to rest at the end of its cycle in contact with aforementioned microswitch (which is always hot from battery) which signals to the van that that particular door is closed. Therefore, if the microswitch is not activated at the end of the latch cycle, the van doesn't know that the door is closed, which causes it to be constantly awake and prevents the van from entering sleep mode, which prevents the door closer module from ceasing to ask the battery for current, which results in a persistent call to the battery for about .400 amps until no supply remains to be drawn from.

Maestro estoy admirado de hace días de su profesionalismo

Thanks for your time and effort. Love the videos

Good logic hunting down another parasitic draw! No power tail gate? No problem! One less thing to have a issue with one day. It’s always interesting to see what comes in the shop. Thanks for posting it.

My 2010 used to have a dead battery every once in awhile. Now it is every night, especially during the winter. I have taken it to multiple mechanics and explained what I think is happening, i.e. that there is a parasitic drain. No one will diagnose that. I guess it's a lot of work. Instead, twice I've had them throw a new battery at me. The last one worked for maybe a few weeks, then back to a dead battery almost every morning in the winter (Utah, below 20 most nights). The door lock on front passenger started to not lock on driving a few years ago. Then the passenger side sliding door started to have issues with not always opening all the way, closing after opening 12 inches or so. Also, sometimes it would act like it was trying to close over and over again. Sometimes the door open alarm would randomly come on while driving. One night the alarm randomly went off. One mechanic suggested they just disconnect the sliding door from electricity. That proved utterly stupid b/c closing them was difficult from the interior b/c there's no handle to slide it closed. Also, they cut the wires instead of pulling a fuse, (b/c they said the fuses would impact other things) but they ended up cutting the wire to my tail lights, rear door and wipers (Found that out during an unexpected snow storm at night!b Idiots!) Took it to a Honda dealer and they said the roller balls on the doors needed to be replaced, so I paid to have the dumb doors taken off, rollers replaced, and put back on. OH! And had them refuse the wires back together that the other guys cut. UGH! $3k into this parasitic drain and I'm right back at a dead battery nearly every morning. I don't have the capability or time to diagnose the draw, so I'm deciding if maybe disconnecting the battery or installing an interruptor is my best option. Others have suggested a trickle charger. But that means running an extension cord from god knows where during the winter. It wouldn't be ethical to sell or trade in, but I am so over this car just not working. OH! And one of the first issues we had with it was it would randomly lose power and start chugging at 25mph. The dealer could never diagnose that problem, but 7 years later a new alternator solved it. WTH? Are all these things connected?

Gave up and left the A connectors unplugged on both door modules after replacing the left lock which had failed. Such a pain to repair and I had no desire to experience another dead battery on my '07 caused by another component which would surely fail even if I fixed the stupid doors! Love the old van and it works fine without them!

Phillip, that was a very good video. thank you.

Being owner of Honda odyssey big help and enlighten Nice bro keep postings

Thanks for this video. It was the exact problem with my 2006 odyssey. You probably saved me hundreds of dollars in labor costs. $14 replacement hinge and unplugged connector in the rear panel and my van is good to go.

I’ve replaced the latch assembly with micro switch on my odyssey once already. Lasted about 2 years. Not doing it again. I would rather unplug the connector and use the manual door. Should have bought the LX because these doors are a nightmare, especially with the parasitic drain that Honda could have easily avoided by having the sensor time out.

Awesome electrical troubleshooting.

Its probably a micro switch for the latch assembly gets stuck as always open even tho the door jam reads as shut it continously sends a shutting command. This could be huge if thats a way to disable the power door mechanism because the odyssey community tried uplugging the harnesses inside the door and it still drains so they pull fuses and loose the keyfob feature

Having the same exact problem and same door. Will attempt later and hope it works.

very educative. Thank you regards

I have a similar problem in my Honda. I traced down it to fuse 7. Fuse 7 is same back-up fuse you had the issue with, but I do not have a problem with my sliding doors and my alarm system activate without issue, which indicates the door is not the problem. I also hear the continuous clicking of a relay, like you did. When I unplug the fuse 5, the clicking goes away. Fuse 5 is the car stereo fuse. I wonder if the car stereo fuse might have been playing a role in your issue as well. I have not yet resolved the car stereo issue.

Nice work!

Well done man , thank you for the info .

Nice job breaking that down!!

Thanks alooot. Appreciated 👍🏻

I have same same problem on 2006 honda odyssey. Right sliding door does not get any power, power window doesn’t work also. I replaced sliding door motor, module, replaced latch sensor which locates rear side of door, (there sre two latches, front side which is close to front door) and (front latch which is close to front door), replaced “Z” type cabe which is bridge connection between main harness syatem and sliding door. Still no power on right rear sliding door and no power on right rear window. Can you please recommend me which cable am I supposed to replace or plug/unplug ?

Always learn from you

My left door is working perfectly fine but the right door is not, but the fuse is the same as in your video.. So is there any chance that maybe my right passenger door is making the parasitic drian? Let suppose my left door is making the issue can you specify the switches which i need to replace, 2ndly can i disable the switch and also use the door?

Thank you!!!! This video probably

Have the same battery drain problem, replace alternator and battery was fully charged 100% but it drained back up in 1 day and it wouldn’t start again, watching videos trying to fix it😅

I have the same issue, but after I unplug X35 connector the current back to normal.

I want to share a trick. After replacing the old battery, the horn will sound immediately+ the signal lights will flash continuously = the transmission will lock so you cant shift the car into drive. The solution is get your master key for the 2005 Odyssey minivan and restart the car with that master key to reset the CPU. you dont need to get the dealer to sell you a new MICU for $5K. Bro you are wasting your time, the customer already told you his passenger sliding door was not operating.. You need to replace the microswitch in that sliding door not spend 8 hours looking for a phantom current.

Can you tell me all the parts I need to buy in order to start my testing?