Give it an exorcist. Walk around the car screaming: Get out of this car, the power of Chrysler compels you.

I've had a very similar case study like this one. 2003 escape. Ultimately came down to finding that the instrument cluster had a bad diode, leaking voltage into the ignition power circuit that backfed the control side of a relay keeping that relay latched, providing power to the vehicle keeping the vehicle running. my move is exactly what you're doing in the bonus footage. These ones are always a challenge lol. (I actually ripped apart that instrument cluster and replaced the smc diode on the board and got the customer their car back vs throwing in a reman or used. pretty sweet)

Hello Iven, i smiled and clicked your video as soon as i saw the thumbnail! A new BCM will fix this car, i've been through a 2018 elite with the exact same symptoms and that was the fix. I am actually surprised it only took you an hour to reach that conclusion hence it took me a full day to make the call 😅. You are an excellent tech, and i am glade you decided to share your knowledge with the community. Good luck

This is not an isolated instance, other Honda owners of similar age models (e.g. Civic, Pilot, CRV) have experienced the same symptoms and have either had the BCM replaced or are waiting for them to become available. There are a few people saying the keyless entry module was the cause, this is much cheaper and available so may be worth a look.

Hey Ivan. I ran into this same problem with a 2017 crv a year ago. The BCM was unavailable.(still isn't) That really sucks for the customer. I even opened up the module to inspect for a possible manufacturing error. Found nothing. I do automotive electrical and diagnostic work for a living, and your right, the newer these cars get, the harder it is to find modules should they go bad. Good luck with your odyssey. My temporary solution was a constant duty solenoid to power up the micu/BCM.

All the symptoms are pointing to a problem at the BCM. Either a faulty connection to, or a faulty module itself. It is really difficult to tell at this point, but I can't argue with your hypothesis either as it does seem that the BCM is the most probable suspect. Something that caught my attention though was, there is an "updated" part listing for the BCM on a 5-year-old vehicle. Not an identical replacement part. And no related TSB's on it. Just something that makes you go humm? I am looking forward to part 2.

I love how the owner detected when it powered up by itself using the loud radio. Pure genius!

I had something like this on a 1981 Ford Thunderbird Heritage Edition. This car had the electronic dashboard and things I had never seen in a car before. The interior lights and the dashboard were coming on by themselves. Now, this is long before any modern electronics or canbus or anything. I had a repair manual that was for the electrical and it contained flow charts. I messed with that thing for 2 days. It would be sitting outside and the interior lights would come on and the dashboard would light up. Turned out to be a bad lighting control module that was backfeeding through the ignition. This video reminds me of that. Great video!

Hi Ivan, I've been working in the field for 15 years and for the last year I've been watching all your videos, I've learned a lot and I apply it in my work too, you help me a lot, thank you. Your videos are great and I always watch them with an interesting, healthy and very happy look. Greetings from Israel :)

Miss the good old days when you could climb into the engine compartment to do repairs, actually see the spark plugs before you remove them, change a headlight for 5 bucks and a tail light for 50 cents, 7 dollars for a wheel bearing instead of 250 for a hub assembly.

Ivan, you have us as perplexed as you must be feeling right now. Just changed the oil in my 97 Dodge Truck and 02 Caravan. Can't say I'm really ready for what the automotive future looks like right now. Hope to get a some more time on the vehicles I have now. Trick or Treat? Thanks for Sharing!

Hi Ivan.You're making the right call in the circumstances. Financially it's a no brainer - change BCM. From the customer's point of view he/she could end up paying for hours and hours of diagnostic time for no result.

Agreed!! In this case I would say the bcm has for whatever reason has said see ya. Looking forward to part 2.

Ive seen this befor on my friends 2015 Colorado, he didn't fix it and problem got worse , eventually got to the point of engine starting and running by itself.. He had a rear leaking window that sometimes caused alot of moisture inside and I figured that may have somehow ruined the bcm. Replaced BCM and he hasn't had any problems since. So i believe you made the right call PH.

I feel your pain on Honda parts availability. My sister-in-laws 2018 Fit was rear ended in late December 2021. Took until August 2022 to get all the parts to repair it!

Intermittents are such fun! I've had them before, some take many days to locate. The wiring diagram was the main helper along with one DMM and one Fluke 98 scope in DMM mode. No green crusties, but a lot of heat related problems that caused the Intermittents. A heat gun sometimes helped. You'll find it.

Your event gives credence to fears of artifical intelligence going amok. It is always an 'adventure' when you share your troubleshooting. And you always seem to encounter the most perplexing of problems.

Apparently Honda has the biggest problem with parts...buy an alternator while you can get it - you'll need it. Great work Ivan and looking forward to part B:)

Ivan good call.(maybe) In the early 1980s Volvo had a similar problem with the Volvo 340 CVT model. If you left the car and closed the drivers door sometimes the car would start and if you left it in gear the car would start up and drive away !!!!. They introduced and new fuse box( now called BCM) and a different gear lever with a buzzer fitted to try a warn people to not leave it in gear.

Yeah I agree parts especially one containing logic boards have been hard to source. Leading to more eeprom work. But on that note would live to see what's inside that BCM Making it go crazy 🤪 maybe corrupt firmware or logic? Or ? Hopefully we could get to see a "no parts needed" fix! Lol. But seriously this is an interesting case study. Thanks fir sharing!

Odysseys, Pilots, Ridgeline, CRV and Civic all could have this issue. Correct with BCM diagnosis. Check alarm history and see if "ignition switch" was a alarm trigger. It's usually a good indication of BCM ghosting ignition to run position. I have waited over 8+ months to get BCM from Honda. Try and source a used unit. Be sure parts numbers are correct. They have different part numbers for different trim lines in the same year. As far as I know they are not flashable to different trim lines. Good content Ivan. Thanks,

Ooooh this is a good one. Love these mystery videos, haunted mystery video.

OOOOO bete wah bete wah moj krde tune toh bade heavy driver ho bahi tum toh !! In the end Very good Diag Ivan appreciated it buddy!

I own a 2018 Odyssey with almost identical symptoms including the weird “lost power to alarm..” message on screen. It is very intermittent but the car has left me at least 5 times with a dead battery. I’m in SoCal and car has

BCM Is the correct educated guess, I'm seeing this issue more often lately. Only dealer tool will be able to program the new BCM/Used. There is no flashing for the New or used BCM only immo needs to be learnt, Original keys can be reused. Used Bcm with same part number can also be used.

Does the car have "On-Star" type capability that can remotely start the car (without the key being needed)? Maybe that system has gone haywire. Also, I noticed a big dent on the driver side front fender. Maybe the car was in an accident and some wires got got messed with? Looking forward to Part 2, Ivan!!!

You mentioned adding a switch. How about turning off the Batt supply to the BCM? Maybe try that as a test first? Hoping to see a solution in part 2. Thanks for this part.

I had a crv a while back that was a parasitic draw. This new town i moved into has a big problem with draws. I went 6 years as a tech in my hometown and only ever had 1 parasitic draw that was something real easy that i have forgotten what it was. Here I've had like 5-6 cars with draws in the year i have lived here. Anyways this crv at first I found the radio was staying on. My draw went away when I unplugged it so I replaced the radio. Supposedly that wasn't the fix when the customer returned about 3 months later saying he was still having a dead battery. It then took a few visits to the shop because he would need the vehicle to get to work and couldn't leave it for any reasonable length of time but I finally found that the MICU/BCM was actually the issue and was keeping the Radio on at all times. I dug deeper when I found that new radio was staying on again. Lesson learned. Anyways all that to say that the BCM for that car took 5 months to get and same thing I think it was a 2015-2018. Somewhere around there

You have a thing for weird cases, Ivan :-) It seems like a very educated guess to get a new BCM! IMHO, a leaking capacitor can bridge tracks of a PCB and pass low current intermittent signals where they shouldn't go (e.g., the base of a sensitive transistor) making something act out of control, as you have there. So, the BCM being the only module providing power, ground and control voltage to the 4 relays, has got to be the culprit. Can't wait for Part 2 :-)

Go ahead and change the bcm, and trust your work, and yes cars are becoming disposable items!, I hate this start stop gizmos. Looking forward to the next vid

This reminds me of a similar case I had with a 2015 BMW F20 1 series. The fuel pump would start running full speed at random when the car was parked and should be asleep. Eventually causing the battery to be discharged over night. The fuel pump is controlled by a fuel pump control modules that regulates the fuel pump speed based on fuel demand coming from the engine control unit. A BMW dealership already replaced the fuel pump control module to no avail. When it came to me I knew that the fuel pump should only be running at 100% if the fuel pump module is awake but has no communication with the engine control unit. Looking at a diagram it has a wakeup line. When it was acting up the wakeup line was raised to 12v thus waking up the module even though the engine control unit wasn't requesting fuel flow, causing it to start running at full speed. Looking at the diagram I disconnected every module on that wakeup line one by one and determined the FEM (Front Electronics Module, basically like a BCM controls everything like ignition, lighting, power windows, door locks, starter relay etc. ) was outputting 12v on the wakeup line when it shouldn't. I was ready to call the FEM until I found not a single used unit with Comfort Access like the car had and a new one from the dealer was way out of the customers budget. With that in mind I decided to dig a little deeper. When it acted up again I started removing connectors from the FEM one by one and noticed when I pulled 3 specific connectors out of the 10 that were connected to the FEM the fuel pump turned back off. Looking at pinouts for those connectors nothing looked really interesting except for a wakeup line going exclusively to the instrument cluster. I had noticed that when the car acted up the indicator lights on the cluster would light up. And what do you know, when pulling the pin for the cluster wakeup line out of the connector and reinserting the connector into the FEM the fuel pump remained silent. I reinserted that pin and just disconnected the the connector at the back of the cluster. Left the car for 2 days and 2 nights. Battery wasn't drained while it would be dead every morning cause of the fuel pump issue. Got a used instrument cluster, virginised it, programmed it to the car and the problem was solved. Sometimes you've just gotta know how the system works and dig a little deeper even though the answer looks straight forward. It might not be.

My 2014 Ford F-150 has the ECU (electric control unit) turns lights and ignition on and drains the battery overnight. I have had it to the dealer under warranty numerous times and they can't find anything wrong. It is a fairly common problem with Fords but the dealers won't acknowledge it. You are correct in your assessment of "stupid smart cars" I work on classic cars, points, plugs and condensers. And I can fix things not just throw parts at a car like the dealer techs do.

This seems very similar to an issue my dad had with his 2018 Ridgeline. Honda has a service bulletin to replace the keyless access control unit. The alarm would also go off for no reason at times. Parts were not available for the ridgeline, the dealership turned off the smart lock feature and the issue has not returned.

Love it Ivan!" Stupid smart cars" and cannot open the rear sliding door.

Hey. Great video...my 2013 Honda Pilot 55,000 mi also was possessed. Navigation and radio constantly rebooted, headlights flash, close object warning flashes. All without the key present...and it would not start ...$2300 later it was a bad micu and 2 shorts in the wiring harness. omg

Great Job on Videos Thanks 😘😘😘

Seen so many of these on Acuras, used to work at the dealer. Ends up being the Keyless Access Unit (some have TPMS built in) or BCM on the newer cars. I'm not sure if you can check with other scan tools but if you check with the HDS, in the Body Electrical > Security history. It will have an alarm trigger by the Ignition Switch.

How do u charge customers for diags like this? I’ve been watching u for a long time so I kno u have looked into a lot of symptoms when u technically were not working on the car. This is one that u were prolly think about off hours. And I love how u think this stuff is fun. I would be pulling the little bit of hair out that I have left. Ur a wizard Ivan we need more people like u

Keyless access module. We’ve seen a lot of them on the Acura side. If the alarm was set, the alarm would go off and store a “IG1” as the trigger device.

You know Ivan, putting a kill switch wired to the BCM would be a cheaper solution to the problem AND I think also a great theft deterrent. If a crook steals the FOB RF signal, there will be no way in hell they could steal the vehicle. I know push button start and theft is a huge problem for Toyota but all push button start cars are susceptible.

Bcm/keyless access module common on these Hondas and Acuras to cause this same problem as well as other problems. Keyless access module is part of the bcm on this Odyssey. Alldata has good info on the system description of the keyless access system, there is no literature of your issue, but it’s common and yes the bcm has been on back order for a long time

Wow! Something new to Keith? That's a goodie😁

kill switch will work, very nice explanation, did you check for any aftermarket stuff...it happens to me In a Toyota tundra (aftermarket immobilizer)

I agree with your diagnosis but one problem I see is that let say the bcm is (seeing the key ) and turning the ignition on. I would think the car would start when pressing on the brake and pushing the start button when the ignition is on. Also I noticed what appears to be the red security light flashing on the cluster when the ignition comes on. I’m not disagreeing with you but It would be hard to call it the bcm when the fuse box could cause this too. Only way to tell is to isolate the ignition control feeds from the bcm to the fuse box. I enjoy your videos

I've seen this once. The owner put a spare key in a magnetic hide- a- key under the car. After market ebay key of course...... It would get wet and yup! Took weeks to pry that info out of customer.

If you could monitor battery current with a deep memory scope or logger and trigger at an amp above sleep current (with some pre-trigger data), you might see a current signature that could be used to understand a possible module sequence of events (current draw magnitude unique to each module or load). Maybe you could determine what module turned on first. My troubleshooting approach is much like yours, although having an electronic repair bench (microscope, soldering stations, etc.) available to me, I will take apart a suspect module and inspect it before replacing it. You can find uncommon failures and many times, if you have access to a electronics parts inventory (TH and SMT), you can fix the module if the problem is not related to a custom IC. An obvious failure mode is a cracked solder joint or PCB trace, and relay contacts if the vehicle is older. But many times you may have a single SMT component fail. For example, a stacked design SMT ceramic capacitor which can crack and fail short, open or intermittent. I keep a small inventory of the most common high reliability automotive chip capacitors (NP0 and X7R) with features like; soft end termination, AEC-200 Qualification, etc. in 0402, 0603, and 0805, with some larger values in 1206. I also have an inventory of automotive Tant and Polymer. If a find a bad SMT Aluminum Electrolytic I can usually order a good replacement part on-line. Through hole Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors are relatively easy to buy.

BCM is a well educated guess, maybe keyless entry module, did not look like it had any aftermarket remote start installed. Now you just have to find one, possibly reprogram a used one ?

Honda possessed by devil 😬 Who you gonna call ? Pine Hollow Ghostbuster 😂

YOUR ON THE RIGHT TRACK HAVE MANY WITH THIS ISSUE, ALWAYS A DIFFERENT ISSUE, INTERMITTENT, OR STAYS ON ALL THE TIME AND KILLS THE BATTERY. OUR ALARM GOES OFF. THE BCM HARD TI GETS TO ABOVE THE FUSE BOX, WHICH HAPPENS ACROSS ALL HONDAS NP TSB FOR THIS

In those intermittent cases you should be able to set a trigger on a code or signal and then store as much as possible data (of as much as possible different inputs/signals to get the total picture) of the past x seconds. And nice to have, send you a message when it tripped. Is there anything like that available on the market?

Try resetting the bcm by disconecting both positive and negative on battery and take 1jumper cable and connect positive and negative leads to engine together for 20mins and do these steps in reverse and bcm should go back to factory default settings, therefore fixing your problem. U r welcome.

Part of me would wonder if there is a key hiding somewhere. I’d delete out any keys but what you have, Just in case. There should be an encryption code shared between the ecm/bcm for each key that should be needed to power up the car. Replacing the BCM should invalidate the keys, and would also cause the same outcome. It will be interesting if you can pair the bcm/ecm or if a dealer will have to do it.

I think replacing the BCM is a good call. We had a similar problem on one of our 2016 F-150's. At random the DRL lights would come on and there was about a 20 amp draw when it was acting up with nobody inside key out and doors locked. I messed around with it and we ended up taking it to the dealer. They had it for about two months and the mechanic traced it down to no bulbs in the cargo light. The upfitters removed the bulbs when they installed the cap and he said the BCM was searching for those bulbs, couldn't find them and was acting up. There was a code for the puddle lamps. It fixed the problem when he pet the bulbs back in

Great video Ivan thanks for sharing.

Hi Ivan, have you checked that the spare key is not in the glove box, or under the seat etc?

just started watching... perhaps one idea would be to do a full scan without turning the ignition on when the car acts up. just to se what if any modules is responding... to se what modules got power and narrow it down that way.

With a computer involved, anything can happen. All it takes is a tiny leakage current to common in a capacitor tied to a processor input normally pulled high, or a switch mode power supply or power converter with too much AC ripple. Somewhere, there is a logic 0 or logic 1 that turns on the ignition, and whether that tiny signal should be high or low, it doesn't take much to change it. I think you get these cases because of your superior intellect and logical thinking.

I was going to suggest a used BCM from a salvage yard then I see you are getting a used ebay one, good thinking. I don't know how Honda has their vehicle mileage stored though, if it's in the BCM or in the cluster. I wonder if in the BCM if there is a constant 12v source that is shorting to a 12v "switched" source and is powering it up when it feels like it. Intermittent electrical issues always so much fun. Interesting that Honda has an "updated" BCM part number. On a slightly positive note Ivan, there is a company that makes computer chips that just bought a huge piece of property just north of Syracuse, NY. Could we see an end to the chip shortage by making them right here in the States? We shall see.

Got called out today for an intermittent stall on a ford explorer, saw that the ac clutch would engage erratically when the hvac was not on. The lady did say it did only happen when the ac was on. Some how the ac clutch makes a 4.0 ford engine stall if it engages 10 times in 2 seconds.

Nearly a year ago our Ford had a problem. Towed to a dealer and waited a month for parts. Corporate said they don't have an ETA for parts and, at the time, the dealer said he had about 10 cars waiting for parts. Had to purchase a new car. Fortunately, a dealer gave us book price for our non-running, but warrantied car. Are we still blaming covid for this? Great video. Thanks

My guess there is a relay that is getting activated... I would check that circuit to see if the bcm is triggering it or the wire to ground issue etc.

Guided parts cannon.... Not just the parts cannon. Big difference! But agreed, what else could it be what actually controls the keyless and starts that car?

Supply for parts for almost everything is terrible. So curious about the back story on the banned from the dealer thing. Funny.

Double bonus footage, Ivan?! You spoil us! But yeah, this "supply chain" nonsense is getting on everyone's nerves... Even if the world didn't use a J-I-T logistics system, (though it didn't help!) I wonder if warehousing could have smoothed out all this...

Unfortunately, my wife's 2017 Honda CRV is doing exactly the same thing. I watched both part 1 and part 2 of your diagnostics on the van. How is it possible that a vehicle with a proximity key starts itself without the key being present? Exactly what her CRV is doing. It only has 33k on it. Sadly, it's out of warranty because it's a 2017. I have no idea how much money this is going to cost to get it back up and running. Thanks for the video. Much appreciated 🙏

hi yah the manufacturer just did a recall of this vehicle make because of this video good job Ivan

Hey Ivan, if needed I could send you an install guide for the add on remote start units that are basically plug and play. I have seen this same problem with a push to start Accord that turned out to be a faulty remote start. Also try pressing lock on the factory remote 3 times. If it has an add on remote start this should activate it.

I think the BCM is going into a fail-safe mode because it's detecting an issue it doesn't like. From what I understand, the default state for these BCM-controlled systems is the "ON" position. I looked at the wiring diagrams, and the pushbutton switch appears to push one circuit high, and the other to ground. If the circuit states don't match what's expected, this may be the root cause of the problem. It's also worth noting that a 10-amp fuse feeds the pushbutton and one branch to the BCM. If that circuit drops out intermittently, possibly that's the cause of the problem. Maybe water or some other drink got spilled on the pushbutton and is causing an internal short. I'm assuming that the BCM doesn't require a valid proximity key be present to enter the fail-safe mode.

What device actually reads the presence of the key inside the vehicle? Is that device directly connected to the ignition button? My thought is if those two items are part of the same module behind the dash, then the BCM could be ok and that button-and-antenna module could be telling stories to the BCM. On the other hand, if they're completely separate, then it's more likely to be a fault in the BCM itself. Guess we'll see in part deux.

Unplug the power lift control module that talks to the BCM and tells it to turn on accessory power (supposedly, I've actually seen it turn on the ignition) to activate the lift. if it's sending erroneous commands it could be triggering the BCM to activate

Good call

I had a similar case study. The dash would light up but if I took a test light and applied it to the fuse that had voltage everything went out. It was enough power to light the leds in the dash but not enough for a test light. I traced it to a Bluetooth module right next to the hatch back. The module was covered in water. The main power wire was corroted to the ignition on wire. Even when unplugged it still stayed on until I pepinned the connector. They actually auction the car because of the issue. The only difference is I dont think everything came on (radio ignition and so on). This was about 3 years ago on a 2017 and I don't even remember the model.

when that Honda is parked there is a gas tank purge valve that depressors the gas tank some times they stay on , it works to depressor the gas tank even when the engine is off lol

hey Ivan can you use your thermal imager to look at any heat signatures?

How about the car Eric O had that had the can wire that was shorting out under the rear seating that would turn wipers on and open doors and so on. Is the can network tied in with all the systems for the bcm and the push button and the module that senses the key for being in the car?

Ivan, I still drive a 95 Honda passport/ Isuzu rodeo. 325k on original motor and transmission. I changed the plugs recently and decided to check compression. 170 psi on all cylinders. Last emissions test HC was 21 and CO 0.01. I've beat the piss out of it in the mountains hear in Boise. I just maintain it really well. Got lifter noise, but what 3.2 dosent. Lol

Your guess is just as good as mine..

We fixed a couple pilots doing that At the dealership those two pilots would also sound the alarm of course conveniently at 1 o’clock in the morning lol

The sliding door not opening might not be "stupid smart cars", but a very good clue. I'd troubleshoot that, as it might lead you to the main suspect; the BCM😊

Well, at least we all now know why the dealer recommended a new tail gate module. They knew they couldnt get a BCM. lol!!

Could you install a switch inline for the power to turn just the BCM off?

I would disable the keyless entry and remote start. You had a issue with door locks and power doors. Dealer had reason to fault rear hatch that may also be keyless entry fault.

Ivan, why has the local dealer banned you? 🤔🤔 Looking forward to part 2 btw!

Always great videos Ivan, thank you. 60107 USA says hi.

Hi Ivan is the other spare key somewhere in the mini van ?

Wow, turns itself on lol. So fancy lol. It's weird that bcm is canned into question. I'll check part 2. Sorry for late responses as I've been out of the country on vacation. Lol

I am curious as to why the dealer blamed the liftgate control module. That is a module that should have power at all times. Could it be feeding power back into the BCM? Seem like it would be a simple test to disconnect the liftgate control module when the car is acting up and see if the power to the cluster goes away.

Possible an internal BCM logic/memory state issue have you tried flashing the unit and reprogramming it?

Ivan, you should have saved this "Haunted Odyssey" series for the end of October. Oh well, perhaps you will get another haunted vehicle by then. 😁

Ivan, you should have saved this one for Halloween!

In the past, Honda outsourced clusters to Ford/Visteon. Remember a cluster that would heat load resisters to the point they desoldered and dropped from the board. Apparently quality wasn't Job 1...

reprogram the BCM may clear a logic error assuming not bad relays in it. open bcm look for water damage?

have a 2018 Ridgeline. same platform than Odyssey. I have similar electronic symptoms. intermittent clicking and flashing of infotainment. I removed the TPMS (Hondas name for BCM) and inspected it for cracked solder joints. Here in Canada they quoted me $1000 dollars for this module installed and was in backorder for at least 3 months. I said no. went back home. then gave it a good clean to the grounds of this module with electronic cleaner. Also, you wouldn’t believe it but also give it a good clean to the push start button. I have been problem free for 3 months. before this the alarm would go off at least twice a day and the cluster will start flashing and numerous relays would start clicking like a possessed car.

With an old car you would look at the key circuit, but with the 2 inputs and computer logic between turning on the car the board not some wire seems rational. The only possible wiring issue might be a power glitch, the program is running and some glitch spikes the inputs, the radio/fob may be a simple on off voltage at the board and the button is on off, a spike to all inputs could be interpreted as on. As far as recent cars parts shortages, the part may be going into new cars so parts go to 1) new cars, 2) dealer repairs, 3) public sale including mechanics, they might be able to get a dealer to install the part because those repairs are higher up the chain.

Salvage yard? Thanks Ivan!

If it is reasonably repeatable now. Could you de-pin the bcm connector of what commands the ignition on or loop out the communication of it. Even use test leads to be fully connected to shut and lock the car. Then disconnect the leads once asleep so the car has no idea it's been tampered with? Then see if the fault reoccurs? I know you've already fixed these cars when you post them but it might help ease the doubt of the call if you can isolate the module. So it can malfunction all it likes but not actually affect the car?

Is there another key flob in the vehicle somewhere dash under the seat.

This is a real problem with modern cars; they are so complicated that even the dealers have no idea how to fix them.

Is there any used parts places near you? Maybe a junkyard BCM would give you something to test with.

I had a 2019 Honda passport, all kinds of electrical issues. I had same issue as well as the vehicle would brake on its own, accelerate on its own. Rear tailgate opened with no command. Radio was an issue with noise, the dealer would do noting for me. I had less than fifteen thousand kilometers on it. Never solved it and got rid of it.