Glad you were able to find your answer! Little tip - replace both. They are inexpensive enough and easy enough to replace, just do them both. Also, another tip is I've read on forums when it comes to these sensors to use Mopar OEM sensors. The crankshaft sensor I used is not OEM; however, the camshaft sensor I used was. No issues so far with the crankshaft sensor, but you never know and the price point is not that much different.

GearTube TV thanks for the tip. 👍

Hey came across this video because I have a 04 Jeep Liberty 3.7 just got a PO 300 code took it to AutoZone the OBD stated that it is a crankshaft position sensor that is needed multiple misfires. I'm going to try to crankshaft position sensor first

Glad it was helpful!

@@GearTubeTV Hi I Did it my self and I'm a Woman who never work on a car i tried it because they wanted to charge me 278 Dollars so very thankful

Thank you for stopping by and for the kind comment!

The trouble code can be any of the following: P0335, P0336, P0337, or P0338. This is what can get confusing when you're trying to determine whether it's the crankshaft position sensor or the camshaft position sensor. Best thing to do is replace them both. They're not expensive and really easy to change (I have videos showing how to change both). I can't guarantee that is what your issue is, but if you have a code reader and you get one of the above codes there's a good chance that could be a problem. There are other things that could cause it not to start too. As long as you have fuel, air, and spark the only thing that would then prevent it starting could be sensors, dead cells in the battery (it will give you power but when you go to crank it won't even have enough juice for the starter to engage and crank the engine), or ECM/PCM issues.

You can try that and see if it works, but typically it is not a matter of the sensor being clean versus dirty. They are an electrical component and eventually just plain wear out. I would think your best bet is to replace it with a new one given the relatively low cost of a replacement sensor.

Right on! Thanks for the comment and support!

Just something to consider if you didn't - go to autozone or an auto parts store near you that has an OBD reader. Have them clear the codes and see if it comes back. Or, the other sensor that can cause the same code is the camshaft position sensor.

Personally I do not drive it enough to really offer a good opinion. But, the first thing I will say is I find it lacks headroom. I just feel like my head is constantly in contact with the headliner. However, as far as the wife - she loves it! It's actually been very reliable save for an electrical gremlin in the steering column that makes the headlights flash when the turn signal clicks off. She bought it new in 2006 and the only real reason we have for replacing it will be to get something with a bit more room for the kiddos. Right now with a rear facing car seat in the back passenger side, the passenger front seat has to be all the way forward, which doesn't leave much room for a front seat passenger. I drove it once in about 18" of snow and I was really impressed with the capability of it. It was quite agile in the snow, and, in fact, I almost wish I had the same driveline in my YJ.

@@GearTubeTV I'm only 6'2" and mine doesn't have the moon roof so headroom is fine for me. It does have more headroom than the '09 Toyota 4Runner Trail Edition that I almost bought a few years ago. I took the Liberty on a 6,000+ mile road trip several years ago. During that trip I spent a little time in the Moab area and was surprised at how well it did on the trail to Tower Arch in Arches National Park. That headlight issue is common. Will probably require replacing the multi-function headlight switch. The 3.7L does fine for me and does well towing my boat. The diesel definitely had more torque and a little better fuel mileage but the 3.7L is much more reliable and cheaper to live with. I was very tempted to squeeze in one of the extra 4.0L's that I have and back it with an AX15. The Jeep 4.0L is my favorite engine.

Hey Joshua! It doesn't need to be rotated to lock on or anything that I can remember. The reason for rotating would be to prevent the o-ring from dislodging. You can also put a dab of motor oil on the o-ring to help as well. I try to never push or pull things that have 90 degree bends straight in or out because of the risk of breaking. Of course that's only of #1 it's possible to rotate it, and #2 it isn't something that locks into place like the PCV valve.

Okay. I tried working it back and forth for about and hour after hit it with PBS blaster, but it wont budge. I may have to pull the oil pan.

Should be 10mm.

I meant the FIXD code reader in the add.