A mechanic must not retire as there are a lot of problems to solve 😂

I am also a retired mechanic but today's vehicles are very time consuming and I still have my old broham and it has points a coil and carby and to be honest I like the simplicity and the cost of a service that I am still doing myself and I will probably just keep the old girl running.

Amazing! We're glad you found our video useful and managed to diagnose your fault!

Thank you, we've glad you liked the video! Hopefully your customer likes it too and you can get them back on the road ASAP 🙏 We also have a brief video on wheel speed sensor faults as well if it would help: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ip1kdcKSqrLShWQ.html

easy way out of all this to 'clone' over an identical car, swop over his number plates, and give him the bill to cover the replacement car 🙂

​@sollykhan2385 was this supposed to be funny? Or are you serious 🤔

@@kylemcweeny878i thought it was hilarious😂

​@@kylemcweeny878he mekanik, mekanik funne.....😂

shade tree' techie 🤨🤔

Hi I was wondering what your outcome was I have the same issues with the same vehicle make and year with the same codes except my camshaft code is p0340 instead of p0345

Hi Keith. Thank you for your feedback, we appreciate it. We are glad you liked the video and thank you for you kind comments!

You are welcome (and I practically never leave comments or reviews LOL) Will be in contact with a view to getting some ECU's over to you for repair fortunately when we replace stuff we don't throw anything potential repairable away ... BUT !! soooooooooo difficult to find people with relevant skill sets these days

Hi. Yes, the codes P0365 and P0369 indicate a fault with the camshaft 'B' sensor so completing all the checks outline in the video would help differentiate if the fault is with the sensor, its wiring, or the ECU.

Can you direct me to the correct pin removal tool for my 2012 Jeep Wrangler jk? Thanks very much.

Hi Carl. Yes, you can use basically the same method for both the crank and cam sensors. We will be releasing a video specifically for the crankshaft position sensor soon so keep your eyes peeled!👀👍

Hi. Have you tried completing the wiring tests whilst wiggling the wiring and connectors to see if there is an intermittent wiring fault caused by vibration whilst the engine is running? If this test checks out ok, then it may be an issue with the ECU. Feel free to email our technical support team at info@ecutesting.com with any other questions or if you would like to send your ECU into us for a test. Thanks.

Hi. If you have a reading that isn't battery voltage when testing the ground wire at the ECU, it could be that the wire is shorted to voltage. To test for this you should remove the ground wire's terminal from the ECU connector and test for voltage by placing the black probe on battery negative and the red probe on the removed terminal end of the ground wire. If there is any voltage displayed then there is a short to voltage affecting the ground wire which will need to be repaired. Hope this helps!

I had the same issue so i replaced the crank sensor and the problem went away

Hi. We are located in the United Kingdom, but we do offer a worldwide service so you can get your unit tested and remanufactured no matter where you are! Fill in our online test form to get started: myaccount.ecutesting.com/ or contact our technical support team via email at info@ecutesting.com

Hi. Yes you can test the sensor's internal resistance, however a good reading will differ depending on the specific sensor you are testing. If you would like to test the sensor this way then we would recommend getting the data sheet for your sensor to determine what a good or bad reading would be.

@@EcutestinglimitedThank you.

Hi. We re-build hundreds of different ECUs, please visit our website www.ecutesting.com and search for your unit's part number. If you cannot find your part number on our website then please email our technical support team on info@ecutesting.com and they will advise you on any re-build services we can provide. Thanks.

Did you complete the voltage checks at the sensor connector as well as the ECU connector? If the voltages at the connector are bad then the fault could be in the wiring from the ECU to the sensor. Also did you replace the sensor with an OEM part? Sometimes aftermarket parts can cause functionality issues even if they are the same part number.

@@Ecutestinglimited I followed the three steps in you very instructive video from time stamp 2:05 and measured +5V, +5V and also battery voltage. I even used an oscilloscope to record the pulse train from the sensor (yes, an OEM) when connected and it looked OK. I did the same with the original sensor and the pulse train was identical, sharp square wave signals. I haven´t followed the signal cable all the way back to the ECU and checked if the signal also is visible at the ECU input but will do that this evening. The cambelt was replaced 2 years ago by a shop but the car hasn't been driven a lot since then. Lets say the belt has jumped a cog, could that cause such an error on the camshaft sensor signal? I have also checked the VVT solenoid, cleaned it and when 12V is attached the slide moves. You see, I am almost becoming desperat...

@@Ecutestinglimited Today I measured the signal cable all the way from the transducer to the ECU connector and the cable was OK. Perhaps the error then is inside the ECU? I am starting to think that the error is due to bad cam shaft alignment. I will have a friend visiting me this week and he told me that when he was changing the cam belt on his V40 he manage to bend the tool holding the cam position just a little bit. He didn't notice that and when starting the engine he had exactly the same error code as I have. When adjusting the cam position the error disappeared. I have also checked the cam position and to me it looks like it is somewhat out of position so I have a small hope that this is the reason also for me. I will let you know as soon I know this for sure.

Problem solved! Today a friend visited me and he could, without a doubt, say just by looking at the cam ends that the positions were wrong. He loosened one of the two cog wheels and adjusted the inlet cam so it aligned with the other cam end using a special tool. After adjustment and ignition on it was possible to clear the cam shaft error code and it has not (yet!) returned. I am very happy! I have no explanation how this could happen. The screw on the cog wheel was very tight (not loose anyway) and the cam belt look almost new since I have only driven 12000 km since the replacement. What on earth could have caused this?

Hi. There are a few different tests that you can conduct on the sensor to determine if it is faulty, but these can vary depending on what type of sensor you have and the manufacturer, so you would have to consult your vehicles schematic or repair manual in order to do this. Using the method we outline at 1:52 in this video, you can determine it is likely the sensor that is faulty if it has a good ground, good supply voltage and a good signal. Hope this helps!

Hi. Are you able to communicate with the ECU using diagnostics? Are you also able to get the part number on the ECU unit please?

@@Ecutestinglimited Don't really understand the first part "using diagnostics", I thought that meant code reader which as I've said show no codes -- even the 2 pedal test is just continuously flashing (I counted to 100!). The ecu is not evident so I shall go rip some things off and get back to you. Thank you very much.

​@@johncollins8304 Hi. Apologies, yes we were referring to your diagnostic scan tool the Xtool D7. We just wanted to confirm that you have done a full vehicle scan and found no fault codes and not just scanned for fault codes on the engine ECU itself? This is to confirm if the ECU has communications with the other modules on the vehicle and the fault you are describing isn't caused by a lack of communication.

Hi. Have you scanned the vehicle for any fault codes? This is to help pin point what on the vehicle could be causing the sudden cut out of acceleration. Thanks.

No. It should start at any partition

If you are getting any other fault codes alongside the P0391 then it is worth investigating them first as they could be causing the code. However, if you just have the P0391 then we would still recommend completing the checks outlined in this video to ensure the fault isn't with the sensor, wiring or ECU. If they all check out OK, then you could have a fault with mechanical components which will need to be investigated.

Hi, yes the basic principles will apply to the crankshaft position sensor. However we have done a video specifically for the crank sensor, so check it out here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/ld2oar2m0t_PfZc.html

Hi. A P0365 indicates a problem with the Camshaft sensor 'B' circuit. If you have already replaced both sensors then we would recommend completing the circuit checks in this video from 1:52 onwards to determine if the sensor has a good ground, is receiving the correct power supply, and that it is outputting a good signal. The fault will likely lie with either the connector to the sensor, the wiring loom from the sensor to the ECU, or with the ECU itself. Hope this helps.

@@Ecutestinglimited which camshaft sensor is B, intake or exhaust? They both shaped differently

Hi. We would recommend getting the vehicle scanned for fault codes, as the car stalling when warm could be caused by numerous sensors and/or other components on the vehicle. We are based in Derbyshire in the United Kingdom, so if you have any other questions please feel free to contact our technical support team by phone on +44 1773 535638 or via email on info@ecutesting.com

@@Ecutestinglimited thank you very much.I will get car scanned .there’s a BMW Specialist’s in Windsor. When the car first went into Limp mode.the previous owner had used that garage.Highly recommended.I called them and spoke to a guy his name is Mick.told him I bought the car of an elderly gentleman in Dorset.gave them the reg. and mike said Oh yes we remember the car and mark. I told the guy about the Limp mode and straight he said Camshaft censor.other garages said bring it in leave it with us and we will carry out tests ect.NO Way.leave it with us. £ching ching ching. I took my car to Windsor the garage is called K@M Auto Technics.guys are Straight, no Bull***t they charge £90.per hour .But no Naughty Lies.other garages in and outside Windsor use them to sort out the problems with there customers BMW.Kevin and Mike are well Respected. Like you are. And Trusted. Recently I Aloud a mechanic friend of mine change the oil and filter .but wouldn’t trust him to mess with other bitts on the car. Either he or one of his friends pulled the bonnet release handle to fk Hard. I watched oil and filter being removed. Left the car dripping old oil until it completely empty.about 30/40 minutes.I fitted the quality oil filter and poured in the new quality oil.waited on and off topping it up.wiped off minimal oil drips. Virtuly none cos I’m to fussy.I always gently lower the bonnet and click it shut.I did it exactly as always .gave my mate £25. For using his ramps and despising of my out oil.got home. Left the car standing for 40 mins.then wanted to recheck oil level and filter .ie weeps .gently pulled the bonnet release handle it felt loose.then went to open the bonnet but only the drivers side clip was released. Could not lift the bonnet.then I knew it’s reason was because one of the thick Apes had pulled the handle sharply or to fk hardi got my son to operate the handle as I carefully put even presure on the front of the bonnet it bouncing it and with open palms slapped the bonnet. And I managed to open it. Done my checks all ok.topped up screen wash.as usual cleaned engine,and other areas with a wad 40 damp cloth.checked water levels . Sprayed silicone oil mixed with wad 40 on and in between all catches on the top of the cross plate and on the front part of the bonnet where both bonnet and cross plate catches meet.so now I’ve got to see if the bonnet cable to the near side is damaged. Or the latch is damaged.seen cables on eBay. Reasonably priced looks an easy job replacing the cable,or cables. I’m a fussy guy .always take propper care of my vehicles.shut doors gently.silicon oil in window canals ,cleaning all door shuts ,under the cills.I treat my cars with Respect.and my old transit van.once a year I take off the wheels, clean the inner sides, wire brush the rust of the wheel hubs and clean all around the hubs and callipers and pads with proper break cleaner.if I’m taking people out or picking them up.I open and I shut the doors.Because people Slam them bloody hard shut. Destroys the rubbers, damages the window electric motors.so thanks for your kind Honest Advise Sir. Great channel. Interesting . Take care and kindest regards m8.

Hi. Apologies but I'm not sure we do say that in the video? At 2:46 we say if the wiring to the sensor is ok then the sensor itself is faulty. There are a few different tests that you can conduct on the sensor to determine if it is faulty, but these can vary depending on what type of sensor you have and the manufacturer, so you would have to consult your vehicles schematic or repair manual in order to do this.

Yes, we would recommend completing the same test by back probing all 3 wires at the ECU connector to determine if the fault is within the wiring loom or the ECU itself.

Theres a button in the trunk you might have to push after a collision of sorts. It shuts off the fuel pump. Its called an inertia switch i think. It will be on the driver side in the trunk

@@86bcgossett86 Wow, that is a good thing to know about.... Thank you for sharing!

Hi. This is due to the ECU having an internal pull up resistor which pulls the voltage up in the signal circuit to 5v. When the camshaft sensor is unplugged, the signal wire is not connected to anything that could pull it to a lower voltage so you get a measurement 5V on the signal wire with the ignition on, as the ECU is basically seeing an open circuit through the pull-up resistor.

@@Ecutestinglimited thank you for the explanation. How would you know if your ecu has a pull-up or pull-down resistor without a diagram. Are most 3 pin work this way?

thank you @Ecutestinglimited, I found a video which explains how to tell if you have a pull up or pull down circuit .

Hi. A camshaft controls the opening and closing of the engine's valves due to 'lobes' or 'cams' pushing up against the valves as the camshaft rotates, which allows the intake of fuel-air mixture into the pistons as well as the release of exhaust gasses. The crankshaft converts the reciprocating motion of the pistons into rotational motion, transferring power to the transmission. It is connected to the pistons through connecting rods and converts the up-and-down motion into a circular motion. Both the crank and cam sensors monitor the rotational position and speed of each of these and relay this information back to the ECU for optimal and efficient valve timing and engine operation. Hope this help!

Hi. Please contact our technical support team via email at info@ecutesting.com with the information you have provided in your message above, as well as any additional fault information you can give including diagnostic fault codes, symptoms and any testing/fixes you have already carried out. They will be happy to advise you of any re-build solution we can provide.

Thanks for the comment! We will certainly look into this in the future 👍

I agree with you..

Please explain everything else on a car, right now, in ten words or less

Please go buy a book about your car, which explains most of this, and learn to do some of it yourself. You'll be better for it.

Hi. A P0341 is likely caused by either a faulty sensor, the sensor's wiring or connector, or the ECU as we have mentioned in the video. Typically P0341 is caused by an intermittent fault so a potential quick check to complete would be inspecting the sensor connector for any corrosion, damaged pins, or terminals with poor tension. You can also complete this check at the ECU. If they both look ok, then we would recommend following the steps outlined in this video to determine if the sensor, wiring, or ECU is at fault. But as you have the P0341 code, we would recommend completing all checks whilst wiggling the wiring loom between the sensor and ECU, as engine vibration could be the reason the fault is intermittent. Hope this helps!

@@Ecutestinglimited thank you very much for you reply. I have already swapped out the sensor for a new one but nothing has changed. I'll try out the electrical connections and ECU next weekend. Excellent video by the way

@@yohansharp3040 Thank you, we are glad you liked the video! If you need any further assistance or believe your ECU is at fault, please email our technical support team on info@ecutesting.com and they will be happy to advise you on what the next steps are.

@@Ecutestinglimited Checked the wiring from the connector. Got a 12V for Ground, a 5V for the +, and 0,02V for the signal. Thanks for the help, i'll look into getting the wiring checked up

Hi. The code P0321 relates to the crankshaft position sensor (also known as the engine speed sensor) rather than the camshaft sensor. The testing methods for both of these sensors is fairly similar, however we will be shortly releasing a video specifically about the crankshaft position sensor which will go into more detail!

Hi. You can test the wires on the ECU connector when it is plugged in by back probing the wires behind the connector. We have a video that details how to do this on our channel: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/iZ53f5uHqM2bc2w.html Watch from 2:20 onwards for steps on how to back probe. Hope this helps!