Many thanks. And as far as i have seen the majority videos of changing belts on these 1.6 zetec engines. you are the only one who releases the camshaft sprockets. hats off to you sir!

10 yrs ago, i couldn't get a focus bolt out, snapped 2 sockets + my extension bar, phoned the lads at ford workshop, "just smash all the bottom plastic cover off, + slip the belt over the pulley", "once the top cover is back on, the customer will never know" "never had one back yet to complain" main dealers, gotta luv 'em....

Love this guys honesty when doing videos. No pissing about. Straight to the point.

Another brilliant video Allen well done. You and Rain Man repairs are my favourite well done. Keep up the good work. Absolutely love it❤

Back to business mr Allan . I’m learning another 1 each time you post this informative mechanical video of yours because I’m trying to do my personal maintenance on my ford s max 2007 taci .. great video thanks a lot

Good to have you back on car videos Alan

Mighty job Alan, very well explained, Thank You💯👌👍🙏😎

An incredibly useful video Alan!! welcome home from your Holiday, you left us with a bit of a void. "Fantastic"

Great hack Alan raising the reservoir bottle up.

Just finished doing a cam belt on my Ford Fiesta Zetec S mk5 (2002), struggled yesterday with the crank bolt, nothing would touch it, had the air compressor out set to max, nothing. Almost at the point of giving up, but found your video last night. 8am this morning dragged the comp back out and dad's 1993 black and decker heat gun, few mins of heat and the bolt came straight out with the airgun. Thank you so much for the video, this really helped me out. Also did the trick holding the coolant tank in the air, worked brilliantly. Have subbed :) My timing kit has a locking pin, you replace the timing pin and use it when tightening the new crank bolt so no need for the flywheel locking tool.

Just watched EuroV. This was a nice tonic Alan. Thanks.

The cooling bottle is a clever trick. I'll remember it next time I do one of these... Thanks!

Welcome back to Blighty Alan!

Thanks so much for this video, I was ready to pay a garage until I found this great video, it worked a treat.👍

I can't believe it worked 😂 thank you so much. The last time I did one of these I made a tool to hold the pulley, although the bolt came undone the pulley shattered as well. Thanks again.

Going to miss all this good stuff if and when you go 😢

Quite a few "top tips" there Alan. Awesome informative vid as always. Cheers Alan.

Great tips Alan - many thanks!

Nice having you back Alan although it must have been hard going back to work 😭 I tried my Dewalt impact gun on this bolt and it wouldn't twitch. Nice Pro Tip with a heat gun 👍 USPro tools are good but I think we need more powerful guns.. $$ Auch I figured out that tip with a bottle too 😁 does the trick with bleeding the air out the system 👍

Another good solid job. The hot air gun usage probably expands the stretch pin. I will remember this idea. Your timing and rechecking, points to a experienced mechanic.

Hi Alan,a very nice and informative video. Back to the spanners once againg.

You opened the expansion bottle cap to let the graverty in?? Thought it was there already and needed air to be let in 😆 😂 😆 😂

Great vid Alan that timing belt replacement is very similar to the 1.6 Renault magane which I’ve done a few of 👍👊

Excellent video, some really good points 👍

thanks for the video I am doing the timing belt on the 2013 ford fiesta timing belt, people talk about using the torque wrench for the crank bolt, I am just using the impact gun by full power, that mostly I do when I working on the timing belt.

Alan nice one,,))) you smashed it again 😊🇬🇧👊

Perfect timing, job I’ve got to do on son car this week

to lock the crankshaft pulley bolt I use a set of stillsons through the pulley to hold it and a small piece of wood on the jaws so it doesn't damage the pulley saves loads of time an you can hold the flywheel pulley great vid

Top info as always

I was worried delayed Balut poisoning had taken you. Glad to see you're still alive 🙂👍

Top tip that with the coolant bottle. I like it a lot.

Great video mate .

Thank you for your video on changing the timing belt and water pump. Does the same apply for a ford fiesta zetec mk5 05 plate please ?

great video as usual alan!

Great video great tips cheers Alan, Sandy

Oh good, your back!

Hi Alan ,I really enjoyed our chat last week ,well that was a great video as usual,don't forget to txt me about that show if that's OK with you and Kevin hope to here from you ,keep the video's coming they are great

Been watching a lot of your videos I like your no nonsense approach and straightforward information. I have a mk5 mondeo and the rear passenger side caliper has failed (rear discs and pads were done 2 months ago) is it possible to just change the disc and pad on the passenger side? As the driver side is only 2 months old, I hear about brake balancing ect, but SURELY there would not be any difference if it was left on and only changed passenger with new caliper?

Very good job

Proper quality air gun with high flow connections and adequate air pressure will always do the job without the need of any heat etc

Great video as usual just a question, don't you risk damaging the lip seal ?

Welcome home fela!!!!!

Great video!👍

A Torque Multiplier has always worked for me

Get a lisele weighted socket, works wonders on pain in the butt bolts. Honda had this issue in the late 90's and the lisele socket fixed that issue mechanics had with them and not destroy the crank seal with heat.

Good tip but you can hear the gun is starved of air, use high flow fittings and 1/2 hose and you will get a big power boost

Great Video on doing this Alan and the pitfalls that come with it. I've carried out this procedure on my MK1 1.6 and getting the crankshaft bolt out is the "squeaky-bum-time" moment - fortunately I have a Milwaukee M18 cheat gun! This takes the bolt out without heat at all. Your method works well with lowered powered guns, that US Pro Gun has half the torque that a Snap-on/Milwaukee will produce. Changing the Cambelt on these Sigma & Zetec lumps is otherwise fairly straight forward, people complain about the lack of a key-way in the crank but the timing tools make the job just as easy! P.S. I've re-used the camshaft sprocket bolts with no issues, as long as they yield when torquing to 60NM it's all good :)

ask snap on for weighted sockets i use them on hondas which are usually mega tight .... there's a couple of vids on here somewhere that show them

Great to see you back in your natural habitat even if you don’t agree at least no flies! I use gas torch to heat simple plumbers heat gun better I think? Renting an o7 car too old?

Great to see you're back Alan. 👍👌👏👏😉😉 I'd hate to strip the thread with the windy gun wouldn't you? Those 3 cyl Fiesta engines require a torque multiplyer don't they? What a daft idea. 😂😅🤣

what model heat gun was that Alan mate top tips as always!

Hello Alan 😊 Nothing personal,but.. Its good practic to replace cams seals and crank seal on same time🥳 I like your all the videos 🤙👊🏼

Top video Alan! Better than Haynes Manual! I've done a 2010 Fiesta Mk7 by locking flywheel, then socket on breaker bar! However, my son took 2013 Fiesta to local garage for same job and they used the Snowpake "short cut" method - worked fine and must have been much quicker to do!

I've never used one but I have seen those big sockets with the big weight. Are they any good? Or you could weld a big round piece of metal with a hole in on a impact socket

Perfection,only thing you forgot to mention is the bottom cover gets slightly warped from the heat gun but doesn’t damage it,I’ve done hundreds over the years I can do them in my sleep lol ,nice one Fella,good to see you back home 👍😉💪

Top Tip Alan ,,, do not put the cam lock tool in place before you have cracked the crank bolt loose ,,, there is a chance of snapping the cam lobes with the tool as you yeet on the crank bolt. hope u had a good holiday bud

Büyüksün ustam ❤

Can the heat toast the pulley seal?

Good vidoe as always . How is work know you are home.

Great video. What is so difficult about removing the starter and putting a proper crankshaft locking tool in place? That's what I did, adds about an extra 30 mins. Then you know you can properly angle tighten the crank bolt and if it is difficult to remove, just use a long breaker bar with 3/4" drive socket and extension. Now my concerns would be that the heat would degrade the rubber in the harmonic balancer and damage the crank oil seal (not a problem if you are replacing these). Also how do you know what torque you have done the bolt up to with just a blip of the impact gun? You could of at least done the initial torque, marked the bolt head and then blipped it round the 90 degrees using the gun otherwise you are just guessing. Leaving the cam locking plate in while doing up the crank bolt is risky as the timing belt spocket gets dragged round as you tighten the crank bolt and puts stress on the belt and cam tool the way you done it. You should have left the cam pulleys freewheeling while doing up the crank bolt, then set timing again, then finally tighten the cam bolts. That way you don't put stress on anything. But yeah I'm sure you've done plenty your way and it works for you. Thanks for the video.

Is there not a proper tool you can use that fits inside the slots on the crankshaft pulley when you are tightening it?

When would you recommend changing the timing belt on a 1.5 Tdci al ?

Have you ever tried one of them induction heaters on the crank bolt?

Can you do a how to. On changing the stretch belts please

Hi just wondering what would be the best way to remove crank pulley bolt without any power tools, just a breaker. I have a manual so my thoughts were to put it in high gear and press the breaks down.

Good video thanks 😊

Alan, ever had a crank bolt break? Imagine that's a whole world of pain!

Would that coolant refilling trick work with a Mondeo 2L Duratec?

Pumps are common to blow and they take timing belt with them. Should do a video of how you time it back up with new built. They are non.interference engines

hello mate, where are your garage based?

Did a mk1 1.6 recently and it was the same crap, tight AF.

I was shouting 'heat' from the start of the video Alan, but I used a yellow can Mapp gas torch on mine hahahah

Sounds like you need a Milwaukee battery buzz gun mines 7 years old had no problems with it and not found a bolt it won’t undo.

Where is your garage. I need the wet belt doing on my van if you are interested. Its a 2012 limited connect. Thank you

Thanks for the tips. I think we can all agree that Ford has again failed with the design, there are way too many difficult solutions where other brands have been smarter. Always when a Ford comes in, we have to reserve much more time for the work compared to many other.

Take the crankshaft sensor out and then give it some with a bolt in the sensor hole with a 3 quarter bar to do crankshaft pulley up

i thought crankshaft bolt is that 4 nm and 90 degrees, -or was it so -is it ok then just run it with impact gun so how can b shure it went ok anddd that stretch like should

Get the milwaukee m18 high torque, it eats these bolts no problem.

You know there is a special tool you need to fix on the driveshaft bolts with build in torque converter especialy for the wetbelt driven ford engines?

Will the air-gun will probably torq it😮 back up I went to Haynes manual it talks about talking at then angle tightening flywheel boots to stretch them but I don't think anyone does?

Hi Alan, I am about to buy a 4 post lift because I open a garage and this will be the only lift. I do not like the 2 posts because I heard some horror stories about vehicle coming off from it accidently. Is there any job I would be struggling to get done compared to 2 post lifts you can think of?

Just buy a weighted socket, lifesaver!

Isn t there no Fixpoint on the Pully or Crankshaft ?

Alan, those two smaller tubes that go into the coolant bottle are the bleeder lines, one comes from the top of the thermostat, the other comes from the top of the radiator, the idea is that these lines will let any pocket of air to escape (automatic-ally) into the bottle. There should always be a tiny little bit of water flowing through those tubes (on the one coming from the radiator, only when the thermostat is open). There's inside each a small plastic piece to reduce their inside diameter even further to limit the flow to a minimum. One common issue (I've seen often here is Spain) is the the reducer gets clogged because people have added water instead of coolant and things start to corrode and the coolant turns brown (with rust) and ends up clogging the orifice and then auto-bleeding won't/can't happen any more.

Original cambelt? Wow, surprised it hasn’t snapped by now

The ones on the citroen xsara picasso 2.0 petrol are a pig too.

Sweeeeet

Welcome back to sunny England 😂

Alan I bet your sad to be back ?

Use a power bar crankshaft bolt tool made for the job, quicker and easier. Google it or do a KZfaq search.

Those belts won't see 125k. Water pump will go by then and snap it

That bottom pulley bolts not tight 1.0 ecoboost is tight

US Pro windy gun has not got enough beans in it. Try something better Alan.

Lift the Engine on the Oil Pan. Outch... Thats not a good Move.

What a crock, get a better gun, never had a problem worked for ford been doing these for years never used any heat!!!

Put a spanner on the nut and spin the engine over.. how I used to do it when I was young 😊