razor 1 , thanks man 👍

Thanks man and glad the video helped some with figuring out the issue 👍. I’m actually on my 3rd purge valve now on this vehicle…seems that the aftermarket replacements just don’t last very long. Now that I know the symptoms, I just replace it out when it starts acting up. Just a note, (you might have already known this…but just in case), if the purge valve ever gets stuck after driving and when you try to start it again it just cranks (basically it has gotten flooded from the extra fuel fumes with the valve stuck open), you can press the gas pedal all the way to the floor while cranking the motor and it disables the injectors so it will un-flood it’s self. Shakes a bit as it’s cleaning the fuel out and trying to fire, but mine has always come back to life so I can get back home. That’s a nice little feature GM has kept around since the first fuel injection systems were made…my ‘85 Pontiac Fiero even has it (and I have to do it all the time as the old injectors leak like sieves on it , lol ! ). Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Thanks ! Glad the video was helpful 👍. I actually just changed the same little valve again a couple of months ago for the very same reason. Apparently these valves are not made very well and only last a few years. All the best ! Steve

Thanks 👍. It’s great to know the videos are helpful to folks all around the world for these Escalades 😃. All the best ! Steve

Thanks man ! Glad it helped 👍. All the best, Steve

Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. Yep, seems that when this poorly designed purge valve starts sticking open, it just floods the motor with fuel fumes from the tank. I’m probably on my 4th or 5th replacement as the aftermarket ones are even worst than the OE one. Good thing I got it from the local auto parts store as I just take it back and they give me another one since the brand I got has a lifetime warranty lol ! Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Thanks and glad the video helps to explain a bit 👍. For the blinking led block I used to see if the injector was firing, it’s actually just the cheapest (like $3 lol) 12 volt battery tender that I got from Harbor Freight that I cut the wall plug off of totally, and then just use the two wires that normally go to the battery to probe the injector wires. The led lights up when voltage is present and reacts really fast since the electronics in it are super simple so it easily catches the voltage pulses to the injectors and blinks the led. If you cannot find it on the HF website (probably still looks just like the one in the video) just let me know and I’ll look to see. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve.

rana rajput , thanks man ! Glad the video helped some 👍. All the best to you, Steve

Lol ! I didn’t even notice that until you pointed it out 🤣. It was annoying me with this stalling issue until I figured it out when I made the video so maybe I was subconsciously thinking about burning it to the ground 😂.

Thanks man 👍. All the best ! Steve

Thanks ! All the best ! Steve

Hey, yep, if the valve is sticking open, it acts like it’s flooding the motor and will make it misfire. I’ve had it also cause the check engine light to come on after fill ups on other makes as well due to a bad valve.

razor 1 , man that’s crazy that it was the fix...doesn’t even seem related does it, but hey if it worked that’s all that matters 👍.

I’m having the exact same problem with a 2007 GMC Yukon Denali. I guess I’m going to give it a shoot see what happens

Having the exact same issue with my 2007 escalade replaced the cam and crank sensors and vvt magnet and sesnor and same issue. Im going to change out the oil and see if that does it

Thanks 👍. Yep, most just start replacing components (cam position, crank position, throttle body, purge valve, etc...) since they don’t want to take the time to diagnose anything anymore if the ECU doesn’t throw a code to tell them what’s wrong it seems. It was definitely the problem on mine...since I fixed the purge valve (when I made this video over a year ago), it has never stalled again. All the best ! Steve

Ernesto Pa , yep...it fixed the stalling issue on mine. Hasn’t done it again since replacing the purge valve after several hundred startups and trips now. It was the only thing I replaced so it must have been the issue on mine 👍

Steve’s DIYs. I will definitely give it a shout and I will post the results either way. It seems like a lot of people have this issue. Thanks again

@@ernesto.1327 - Did you figure out what was causing your stalling issue? Sounds like you eliminated fuel pump, crank sensor, throttle body. What was it?

Dave P, i had to replace the cam phaser the cam sensor and the conector for the sensor. That solved my problem. Also while i was at it i did the water pump and changed the oil

Hey man ! Actually that was the hardest thing about diagnosing this issue...it was not giving any error codes since the computer thought it was opening and closing the valve, but since it would stick open, it would let all of the built up gas fume in the tank come into the intake suddenly and basically flood the motor.

I'm having the exact same issue. I'ma try this when I get home

genaro mendoza , hey man...these intermittent issues are aggravating for sure. If it was me, I’d gather up the fuel pressure gage kit and something like the cheap battery charger with the LED (both can be had at the local cheap tools store) as well as the inline spark checker like I did in the video so the next time it does it, I could hook those up and see if I’m loosing spark on the plugs, loosing fuel pressure, or loosing the signal to the injectors. This would help narrow down which system is cutting out (if you have all three then the only things left are how much air and how much fuel since that’s all the cylinder needs to fire). It’s hard to tell as, in general if you do find you are loosing spark or injection signal, several electrical issues can cause that. On my Dodge Ram I had, it would also shut off just going down the road...let it sit a while and it would fire back up with no issue and then go again (no codes as well). Turned out one time the issue was a loose coil ground wire (it was a single coil system), then a year or so later it started doing it again and that turned out to be the fuel pump relay going bad and getting hot and opening the circuit. Then one more time is was the Anti-dieseling relay that went bad. Since these have individual coils per cylinder I wouldn’t think it would be the coils shutting off on the Escalade, but it might be one of the relays going bad and when they get hot from holding the contacts closed eventually they start to fail. Other than that, I have heard that are issues with the throttle body and it sticking sometimes if I remember right. Hope this helps, Steve

Hi,did you find the problem?

@@StevesDIYs goodmorning steve, i finally got it fixed, it was the timing actuator, when stalled out timing stayed stuck at 25 degrees advanced timing and would not restart until it cool down and the timing spring tension would bring it back to zero.

@@fabinho909090 i finally did, it was the timing actuator, when stalled out timing stayed stuck at 25 degrees advanced timing and wouldn’t start up until it would cool down and timing spring tension would bring it back to zero.

@@genaromendoza6811 , 👍. Wow, that was a totally different issue. Glad you got it fixed...thanks for commenting back what the issue was as it’s always good to know what the problem turned out to be. If you don’t mind me asking, how were you able to find that it was the issue? Did you use an OBDii scanner? This could be helpful for others that have run into this problem as well. Thanks, Steve

Hey, yep my Facebook is on several of the videos right at the beginning of them 👍

Yep, mine will every once in a while shake when I first start it up within a few minutes of shutting it off (like running in the corner market real quick). For mine I think that’s caused by a leaking injector or glitch in the ECU as I can immediately shut it off, then start it back and it’s instantly fine. Only seems to do it if shut off and then restarted within like a minute it two and has only done it like four times in 5 or so years.

Hello, yes for mine (actually it’s my wife’s as well, lol) this was the problem and hasn’t happened again since changing out the cheap little purge valve. It only stalled like that after sitting which wasn’t making much sense until I realized the valve was bad and it was just basically flooding the motor with all of the pressurized gas fume from the tank where it built up from sitting. No codes or anything from mine...just would sputter and die as soon as the valve was told to start cycling to purge the tank pressure, then finally restart after quite a bit of cranking and be fine till the next restart.

Hey man ! Yep, it’s been a couple of years now, but it’s still doing fine and replacing it solved the problem completely 👍. I guess if they get stuck open it just sucks all of the fumes from the tank and floods it. My sons Ford Edge did the very same thing, but only after filling the tank, and it too was the Ford’s version of the purge valve.

@@StevesDIYs thank you sir. Your video is amazing the internet is full of Cadillac forums and everyone has tried fuel pumps and throttle bottles and many other things and thousands and thousands of dollars and some have even traded in their Escalades for other cars and not one forum mentions this fix lol. I'll definitely be trying it on mine when I get a chance. Mine did exactly what you described today. Went from a cold start and made it until the first time I had to stop and died right there where I stopped. Tried to crank it a couple times and it wouldnt fire up then let it sit a minute then it cranked over a bunch of times but it started that time. Almost acted flooded the way it cranked but it was fine after that happened

@@hoobsgarage thanks man...good to know the video helped some 👍. Yep, seems like folks looked at a lot of other things, but never thought this might be the issue. I’ll have to admit that a little past history with GMs helps quite a bit sometimes...I actually have an ‘85 Pontiac Fiero and most every GM has a neat little feature that if you press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and then crank the motor, it shuts down the injectors to clear a flooded condition. Not really necessary now a days, but back in the ‘80’s with leaky injectors that injected into the intake manifold, it was really handy, lol. Once I figured out it was flooding (like you mentioned), it confirmed something was up with getting extra fuel. If you wanted to test it out before changing it...the next time it does it, turn off the ignition then press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and crank it. If it fires back up, let off the gas pedal real quick and let it go to idle...that will pretty much confirm it was either the purge valve or possibly a stuck or leaky injector like the old Fieros used to have issues with. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

@@hoobsgarage did you figure out what's going on with yours? I tried this and still doing same thing.

@@impalachris7261 it's never did it again

Hello, I believe that code relates to the 5 volt supply that runs several of the motor sensors so it could be this one or any of the other ones ( fuel sensor, throttle position sensor, etc). The only way I know to narrow down which sensor (or wire leading to it) would be to unplug each sensor and reset the code to see if it clears.

Hello, no...the purge valve opens and closes to allow built up fuel from the tank or charcoal canister to be metered back into the engine so it doesn’t escape to the atmosphere (pollution control deal). The timing actuator typically controls the variable valve timing of the engine to advance (or retard) the intake/exhaust valves to improve cylinder combustion at different rpms. Hope this helps 👍, Steve

@@StevesDIYs Oh ok so the purge valve was replaced and that solved your problem????

@@mercedesbenzs600bash , yes, for mine, the stalling issue was caused by the purge valve getting stuck open when it is supposed to pulse off and on to allow small amounts of fuel to enter back to the motor. By getting stuck open, it basically allowed a large quantity of fuel vapor from the tank to enter the intake at one time so it flooded the motor with fuel vapor and would stall the motor.

@@StevesDIYs Steve thanks a lot my man much appreciated 🙏🏿

@@mercedesbenzs600bash , 👍. All the best ! Steve

That’s one comparison I haven’t heard before, lol. Most people say I sound like Boomhauer from King ofthe Hill 🤣🤣🤣. All the best !

Yes, there seems to be quite a few things that go wrong with them once they hit about the 120k mile mark for sure. For mine, it has been mostly gaskets, seals, and the air suspension, but if I had to take it somewhere to be fixed vs. fixing it myself I would have gotten rid of it several years ago since a few repairs would have been high labor cost ones.