Thanks ! Yep, I never never looked up the meaning so that’s good to know 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hello, the connectors are plastic as well as the thin tubes. They are sealed by small orings 👍

@@StevesDIYs thank you did you have a o ring set you got it from or just random parts

@steverodriguez4871 I had some extras from the other compressor I swapped out, but they should be standard orings 👍

@@StevesDIYs do you remember what size I’m at Home Depot as we speak I’m just going to get #10#5#20 and see what happens

@steverodriguez4871 hey again, I actually don’t remember the size, but seems like the plastic tube was like 1/8” OD

Hello, sorry for not getting the video angle for the rail bolt on the bottom…seems like there were extra holes there, but only the one bolt that needed to be secured with the nut (that was missing from this one as well). If the bottom of the rail is not secured, I imagine it could cause extra friction as the glass goes up. The car in the video was a visiting car to the shop so unfortunately I don’t have access to it anymore to take pictures of the bolt placement.

Hey man ! I never did setup an affiliate link with Vigor…just did the videos for them in exchange for keeping the compressor and shocks (which worked out perfect for me as I found out during the install that one of the cheap eBay shocks I had put on initially had already failed lol). Thanks for thinking about me though and I do still have the Vigor compressor and shocks on the vehicle which are still doing fine after several years now. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs usually the Amazon affiliate link applies to basically any product once you set it up, as far as I know. Doesn’t have to be set up with Vigor specifically. If you can figure it out let me know, I’m not eager to do the replacement asap anyway with 100+ temps here in Texas and no air conditioned garage 😤

Hey again, thanks for the info on the Amazon Affiliate program 👍…I didn’t realize it was directly through Amazon and not the actual product seller. I setup the link to it and added it to the Video Description section so folks can find it…here it is for reference if you would like to try it to see if it will take you to it out on Amazon: amzn.to/3RSdU86 I’m with you on too hot to do much in my non-air conditioned garage as well lol…this time of year I get up really early for shop projects in hopes of getting to a stopping point and heading back into the house my mid morning. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Hey man ! The oil light on the Viragos is actually a low oil level indicator vs. an oil pressure sensor so if the oil light is coming on when the rpms are up, it only means that the oil level is getting low in the motor case as the oil gets pumped up to the heads and places (so the oil pump should be fine). You might just add a bit more oil until the oil level is at the top of the sight glass on the left side cover (with the bike standing straight up or on the center stand). There’s plenty of room in the bottom of the motor case to have the oil level up at the top of the sight glass with no issue. If that keeps it from coming on, then you should be good to go.

Hey man ! There’s actually another video on the channel that shows how to fix the issue with the connector…here’s a link to it if interested: Low Cost (Cheap) Aftermarket GM Air Ride Rear Shocks - Waste of money or Worth it? kzfaq.info/get/bejne/q7hno9iInsjPmJ8.html All the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs thank you Steve

Hey man, yep, if you haven’t checked the valve gap, it would be worth while to check just to confirm they are set properly before firing one up. If the bike was running prior to having to clean or adjust the carbs, the valve gaps would probably be fine, but I usually check just to be sure if it’s a “new to me” bike.

@@StevesDIYs You have been a big help. Thank you!

Hey man ! Once the motor is running, the alternator should be putting out at least 13 volts so that should be high enough to allow the compressor to kick on. If you put a multi-meter on the battery when it’s running and it’s not getting above 12 volts, then the alternator may be bad so it’s not properly charging the battery which would then keep the compressor from coming on. If it was me, I would connect the battery up to a trickle charger and leave it overnight to fully charge up battery…then with a fully charged battery, the compressor should come on with just the key turned on so you will be able to hear if the compressor cuts on (or hear if the big relay under the hood clicks or you can feel it click if you have someone turn the ignition on while holding the relay).

@@StevesDIYs thanks for the response. I left it sitting for a while, there was an old attachment causing battery drain, replaced battery, good voltage now. Does the compressor kick on every time you turn the key into on position no matter what? Is it not dependent on the amount of air that’s already in the shocks?

🤣 I didn’t know the little smile emoji came with a cowboy hat !

Thanks 👍. Yep, it’s only been a few weeks since installing, but so far they are doing good and are nice and bright

Yep, this DIY does take a bit of work for sure…2nd only to replacing the rear main seal on it lol !

Hey man ! Yep, seems crazy that they would have designed it so the driver’s side one is so tough to access. At least they used Long Life Sylvania’s in it lol !

👍. Yep, once I sanded it all down to prep it for actual automotive paint (vs the rattle can mess that was on it when I got it lol), I only had to use a few extra coats of build primer to level that area back out. The tank (and bike) turned out really nice.

Thanks man ! Yep, I haven’t tried to swap one to see what it would do, but I suspect that it might throw the spark timing off a few degrees and make it either spark too early and the motor might kick back, or spark too late and some of the power would be lost. I’m guessing that it triggers from the beginning of the tab so the longer or shorter tabs change the timing since they all end at the same location related to the key way.

@@StevesDIYs Right right. So better not to experiment with it and just get the right one. Thank You. All the best!

Hey ! No, I didn’t swap out to the others ones as I’m not sure where the black one I had came from and the equal runner one I made was totally out of balance. If I can get my hands on a Mikunoz or another one still being made, I’ll probably set those up on the rig and see how they do with both the timing as normal and then also swapped 👍

Thanks and glad the video helped some 👍. For the suspension controller fuse, I’m actually not sure where it is in the fuse box as it’s not listed anywhere…I suspect that it’s fuse also powers other electronics along with the suspension controller so they didn’t list it specifically. It is odd that the compressor will do the initial startup, but then won’t go ahead and run to level the suspension…unless there’s an issue with the level sensor that is on the axle that is also preventing the scanner from enabling the compressor possibly. Sorry I couldn’t be of much help, but if you get it figured out, comment back as I always like to learn what the issues turn out to be if someone encounters a new one. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs Thank you for responding Steve. Bummer! I'll look for it(fuse). For clarification for me In your diagram, does level sensor refer to each corners height sensor(4 in total (the rod and ball joint that goes up and down with the body movement))?

@LordofChaos187 👍. Yes, for the rear ride height sensors, it looks like it uses the rear corner sensors to determine the height as there isn’t a separate one on the axle that I could find like what was on my Ford Expedition I had prior to the Escalade.

@@StevesDIYs I sort of figured it out. Ended up changing the level control module, and now it operate properly (new shocks, relay and compressor as well as those were bad). The tech2 scanner still wont activate the compressor, but maybe that is due to the compressor being aftermarket? I don't know, but it now functions properly otherwise (add weight to rear and it brings itself up to level etc). Very much appreciate your video!

@LordofChaos187 Thanks and glad you got it figured out 👍. Yep, as long as mines lifting and leveling out, I’ll just call it good lol. I can not get several of the modules on my different cars and trucks to talk to the scanners or coding software so I’ve always assumed they had an done an update or I’m on the wrong software rev.

Thanks man !

Thanks ! It wouldn’t hurt the motor to run it with the front cylinder leading since it is just changing the firing offset between the two cylinders, but I’d say it would affect how smooth the idle is since the two cylinders fire so much closer together. It is probably going to run more like a single cylinder motor (like a larger cc Thumper) with more low rpm power, but less smoothness at higher rpms.

Good to hear and glad the video helped some 👍. All the best ! Steve

Hello, the procedure for a 2nd Gen xv750 would be the same as in the video for this one (it’s a 1st Gen 750), except that the specs for the gaps might be different.

@@StevesDIYs thanks Steve, what gen is a 95? Trying to learn.

@boxer71c55 hey again ! The ‘95 xv750 (or xv1100 as well) would be a 2nd Gen 👍. The 1st Gen bikes were from ‘81 to ‘83, then there were a couple of transition years that are part 1st Gen and part 2nd Gen designs. In ‘86 (for the US models) they released the 2nd Gens that pretty much stayed the same until they stopped producing the Virago model and switched to the V Star

@@StevesDIYs thanks!

Hello, it’s hard to tell, but sounds like the height sensor on the axle is telling the pump controller that the axle is too high so it’s opening the vent in n the pump and letting the air back out. Might check the height sensor to see if the wires are damaged or there’s water in the connector or something maybe.

Hello, not sure, but if the higher watt lights put out a lot more heat than the standard lights, it may cause internal wiring to get damaged even faster than it already does.

Hola ! To eliminate the MCV on the 1st Gen xv750 or xv920, you just need to cap off the ports on the carb boots where the small rubber vacuum lines connect the MCV to the boots.

Thank you very much friend for your kind help! Apart from that, do you have to modify anything in the carburetors? like injectors or needles?

greetings from Guatemala

@juaniitocast 👍. Since the MCV valve is just being eliminated, there should not be any need to change anything on the carburetors (jetting or even the air/fuel mix adjustment). The valve normally stays closed so it does not affect the system…it only opens on deceleration. When I removed them on my motorcycles, I did not have to make any adjustments to the carburetors…I just capped off the fittings that are on the carb boots so no air can enter into the ports where the vacuum lines were connected.

@@StevesDIYs Thank you very much my dear friend, thank you for sharing your experience, your knowledge helped me a lot now I will go to eliminate the system, I myself do the repairs on my motorcycle, I am completely restoring it, greetings from Guatemala. 🫡

Hey ! Yep, I replied to the email 👍. Just let me know if that was the issue or not.

@@StevesDIYs Hi steve, i'm not sure what happened but i didnt receive any reply email from you, not even to my junk folder. I'll resend you the email and maybe you can resend the reply? thanks

Thanks man ! Yep, I do have fun playing with these for sure. I was thinking to contact them to see if they would send me one so I could do a comparison on the test motor rig, just haven’t had time to yet. I’ll probably hit them up in the fall so I can play with them in the winter. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Thanks man and glad the video helped some. All the best to you and yours ! Steve

Thanks man and glad the videos help a bit 👍. Yep, these are some complicated carbs for sure compared to newer designs, but not bad to work on after taking them apart a time or two. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Hey man, there’s actually nothing inside the frame but a hollow area where the air flows from the hole that the filter mounts to the frame all the way up to the neck where the triple tree is. The two holes where each carb elbow connects to the frame just have another smaller rubber elbow inside the frame to help keep oil from the motor’s vent valve from getting sucked into the carbs.

Hey man ! Yep, I finally finished the kick start design that attaches to the right side of the motor 👍. There’s a couple of videos out in the channel showing the final design as well as me kick starting the bike for the first time. I haven’t had time to finalize the drawings in order to make more of them, but hope to get everything finished up so I can make a couple more of them so folks can test them out in the fall once work slows down a bit 🤞

Hello, I was originally running the eBay ones with the Dorman pump for a year or so, but changed out both the shocks and the pump to the Vigor shocks and pump all together.

@@StevesDIYs so if I get the vigor shocks you’d recommend to run them with the vigor pump? And also how have they held up so far (vigor shocks) I have to replace the shocks in in my Escalade but I was looking at OE replacement and they’re honestly way out of my budget it’s almost $900 for both plus the pump. I just wanted to ask if they ride pretty good and if it improved your ride quality?

👍. For sure make a video if it can be done any easier without damaging anything. Mine only had a couple of inches between the bulbs and the components attached to the back side of the mounting area.

👍. Yep, I just usually remove them if they start causing an issue, but seems they can be adjusted as well. All the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs I was trying to remove it (MCV) but for a reason I don't understand, it doesn't work. For some reason, the front cylinder need extra air from that MCV. other wise it fail ! I though my problem was solved but i'm still have issue at 2000-4000 RPM. On idle, it's working fine with the ajustment of the screw on the MCV. Look like it missing air and running lean. Do you have any advise on what could it be ? Thank you

Hello, if it’s running the hydraulics to lift and lower any portion of the soft top, I’d say the relays are working. It may just be that the sensors on the triangular wings are not hitting the correct position to let the controller know to open the compartment cover. You might try having someone press the button to make the soft top cycle and then when it lifts the wings, give the wing a little wiggle up and down to see if it will then trigger the compartment cover to open (assuming the soft top was covering the car and you are trying to put it back into the compartment). If the soft top is down in the compartment and you are trying cover the car, after all of the windows all go down, opening of the compartment cover is the next step so if you do not hear the pump come on and try to lift the compartment cover, then it could be either a fuse or these relays not starting the pump. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs Steve, thank you for your help. Update: today before going ahead with the procedure, I tapped the sides of the top, I saw you tapping the side on one video, the top retracted and did everything flawlessly. Enjoyed some fresh air on my drive home from work. However, at home I was getting the : top not locked alert. I tapped with my hand the sides and the alert went away. So, I guess the soft tops on these old 6 series are a little glitchy, huh?

@jeremiahex 👍. Great to hear you got it working again ! Yep, the same wing sensor that tapping on the back section of the soft top to get it to read the correct sensor segment (position) is also the one that wiggling the wing helps sometimes to get it to read correctly. It is also the one responsible for the annoying “Top Not Locked” error and gong when going down the road. I believe the video that I thumped on the soft top is the one that shows this segment sensor and how to replace…if not, there is another video on the channel that shows how if it starts acting grumpy frequently. By far, this is sensor the most common issue for the soft tops not working properly on these and is caused by either a bad sensor or that the soft top material is loosing its stretchiness as it ages and is pulling the sensor out of position. Storing the soft top in the compartment when it is wet will also cause it to error as the material shrinks from the lack of tension as it dries back out, then is too tight when the soft top is extended the next time to cover the car. Glad to have helped a little and all the best ! Steve

@@StevesDIYs thanks! But it was short lived. Yesterday, it wouldn’t open no matter how many times a tapped the area of the sensor. 🤪Kept getting: “Top Not Locked” So looks like the sensor isn’t working properly anymore.

Thanks man and hope the videos help some long the way 👍. I’m still trying to find time myself to restore a 535 I picked up last year…hopefully this fall I can get going in it as well. Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Thanks man ! Yep, just using the small distance from the front of the wheel to the back isn’t very accurate at all I’ve found…using the lasers to shoot a longer distance really helps with these sensitive suspension systems. The BMW manual for some even calls out to put a sand bags in the driver seat to simulate the drivers weight to obtain the most accurate alignment…I’ll have to admit that I don’t go that far lol ! Thanks again and all the best ! Steve

Hey man ! If the timing was way off (like several teeth off between the flywheel mark and the cam mark) it could cause the valves to open too early and loose the compression right as the piston comes to TDC. Since these are interference motors, if it had been set way off or the cam sprocket pin sheared and slipped, it could have also slightly bent a valve and it’s no longer seating. Another non wear related compression loss could also be that the valve gap between the rocker arms is too tight and not allowing the valve to fully seat.

Hello, it might be worth it to buy a coil pack and replace it for one of the two misfiring cylinders (3 & 5) to see if it clears the code. If not, then it may be related to too much air getting in from a hose crack or not getting enough fuel from a fuel issue (dirty fuel filter or not enough fuel pressure from the pump)

Hey man ! Yes, I still make them from time to time as folks ask for them. My email is at the beginning of the video if you want to sent an email with which year and size your bike is. All the best ! Steve

Hello, sometimes a replacement one can be bad right out of the box if it was not the OE brand I’ve found. If you wanted to check to see if it might be a bad Mass flow sensor, try starting the car and then unplugging the sensor…if the motor revs up a bit, then the sensor is working so it might be a low battery issue (the electronics are sensitive on these cars I’ve found) or possibly an intake leak somewhere. If the idle stays the same, then probably the sensor is bad.

Lol, yep, the little nub works pretty good too if they made it long enough…about the same as the gage stick. The ones that have a little short nub have annoyed me in the past so I just use the gage stick as it always works lol. All the best ! Steve

Hey ! I believe the brand I used was “NE Brand” for the complete gasket kit. The head gaskets were a bit thick, but since they made to compress and fill the gasket groove when the heads are tightened, they did fine. After the final head torque, there was still a slight gap between the heads and the cylinders, but I noticed after a few rides, the heat expansion compressed the gasket on down and the gap went away. Hope this helps a bit and all the best ! Steve

Hello, the design of the vent valve would be virtually the same (and cause the same issue if split), but the location on the motor is probably different. If you hop out on RealOEM.com, there should be a diagram for yours that shows what it looks like and the tubing shapes connecting it that will help to find it on the motor. All the best ! Steve

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