My pleasure.

Thanks for the comment.

Glad I could help.

True, but I was living in Germany at the time, so finding an inexpensive control arm was proving difficult and I couldn't wait for shipping from the US.

Yes, and I would have replaced the whole arm if I was able to get one for that price. I was in Germany when I did this job and finding the bushing was much easier and cheaper than the whole arm.

Not too long. Taking the arm off the car was the hardest part.

Luke, thanks for the comment. The bolts I used were the highest grade stainless I could find here in Germany (I can't recall the exact grade). Yes, there is probably a better bolt for use in this application. Bolt properties can be found here: www.fastenal.com/content/documents/FastenalTechnicalReferenceGuide.pdf Grade F593C bolts (widely available) have a min tensile strength of 100,000 psi, given the tensile stress area of an M12 bolt (.13066 sq-in) that would give a tensile load capability of 13,066 lbs. Shear strength can be estimated as 60% of tensile strength so even in a shearing motion, the bolts should withstand 7,839 lbs of force. Since the car weighs 4,600 lbs gross, and we are only talking about 1 corner of the car and two bolts holding the bushing on, it seems to me that there is plenty of safety margin.

Stainless doesn’t have the same ductility so tensile strength is compromised over time. Never use for suspension on automobiles as they can shear.

If I would have had my DeWalt impact wrench at the time it would have been much easier.

I assume they would be but I'm not positive.

No, it was normal after changing it out. No difference that I could tell.

Shock mounts? Any play there?

perhaps replace the bushings that are at the back of the front sway bar as they wear too and cause a clunk noise going over bumps

I'm going through the same thing with my CX-5

@@daviddenoble5271 maybe the rubber bushings on the front and rear sway bar mounts

This is the left (drivers) side of the vehicle. But both sides would follow the same process.

Yes, there should be a different part for the left and right.

@@JRsGarage thank you…most sites only showing one

Actually, I may have misspoke. Looking at pictures on Rockauto.com it appears it may be universal left-right for the control arm bushing, listed as "front lower rearward". No left-right option listed. Also, for about 20 bucks more you can get the whole control arm with new bushing preinstalled, which might save you a bunch of hassle. If you get the whole control arm there are separate part numbers left and right.

@@JRsGarage im checking on Febest site and seeing theres left and right so im very unsure

Are you looking at part MZAB-MZ3B? I don't see a different number for left and right. Also if you search for that part number on Google you'll see an Amazon link and in the comments someone asked if it can be used on both the left and right and the seller confirmed that yes it can be.

Your probably right, but I was getting ready to sell the car anyway so I just wanted the simplest (lease expensive) route to fixed. Thanks for the comment. Also I was living in Germany at the time and getting Mazda parts is more of a challenge over there.

I’m looking to do the same job myself on my 3, and I’m probably going to replace just the bushings as well, as I am planning on keeping the car for another 2-3 years. I’ve been reading too many reviews of people experiencing issues with the fit and quality of the replacement parts available right now.

Yes, drivers side, but the process is the same for both.

At 7:30 in the video you hear a pop that's the inner race letting loose there's nothing else to see after that it fell apart and came off.

@@JRsGarage I know, I just wanted to make a joke 👍

Not really sure what to do with this comment. If you care to explain a bit more maybe I can help.