Did you use a canned tune or custom tune?

Its called a BS tune

Jajajaja

I was thinking the same thing, they never say what tune.

3uxy4uru4uxr

Get a s&b there full of crap

And how do you do that?

@@paulpopp1999 You don't. Most intakes don't provide enough of a change to require a tune. In face, the instructions specifically say on many "no tune necessary." Tuning honestly doesn't become an issue until you open the engine up and start changing heads, cams, or installing huge throttle bodys. Simple bolt on mods should not have an effect on anything.

@@rapl1183 false, you will run lean if you just throw on a pod filter lol

famous art guy meme you definitely won’t, if anything it will give a bit better response over the super restrictive air box honestly. Sure, tuning to any modification helps tremendously. However just throwing on an aftermarket intake system...you may never seen any premature wear for the duration of the vehicle, unless you mad dog it everywhere

Dyno chart can be seen at 0:26 and at 3:17 you can see this install was done on our in-house dyno studio! -Zach

Probably not much of a difference, the top is open and sucking air from the engine bay anyway instead of sucking air from the fender. without “additional tuning” you probably loose hp.

Five minutes more for one or two extra dyno runs without the tune would have been too much work :-(

Please feel free to give us a call and we can always try to troubleshoot with you! -Zach

@@AmericanTrucksRam thank you but i already went ahead and removed the k&n. Went back to stock. Seemed like the engine was choking with too much air.

I barely got that with a cam and tune on a ls3 camaro.

Bradley Tapia 4.7 is a v8 dumbass

We got the same truck brother. I got mine on k&n. You can search by vehicle

There is no tune required for this intake! 😁 -Zach

AmericanTrucks Ram the why did he say appropriate tune

The “appropriate” tune! Hahaha

At the end of the day, they just trying to sell....does the truck need this? Absolutely not! But it looks cool when you open the hood. And maybe the air noise makes you think it’s faster and more powerful, but it’s all BS!

That is coming from the engine. Pretty sure their test is at the wheels. All engines lose power through transfer through transmission, fly, shaft, so on and so forth, until you get what you get actually making contact with the road.

Yeah at the crank... not at the wheel.

Andrew Denine Here’s a long comment about why the dyno numbers are different than what the manufacturer claims. Like the other comments said, the horsepower numbers manufacturers quote are what the engine makes by itself at the crankshaft when tested on an engine dyno and the numbers quoted in this video are how much power makes it to the ground when testing on a chassis dyno. Cars and trucks lose on average roughly 15-20% of their horsepower from what’s called Parasitic Power Loss or Drivetrain Loss from the energy it takes to turn and operate things like the transmission, driveshaft, rear axles and tires. The amount of power that makes it to the ground is much less than the output at the crankshaft. The amount of power lost depends on a variety of different things like if the vehicle is front, rear, all wheel drive or if it’s an automatic or manual transmission as well as things like the size and weight of the tires and wheels and how efficiently components like the alternator and air conditioning compressor rotate. They all add up and take power away from the engine. The manufacturer of the dyno makes a difference as well. Some brands are known to produce higher numbers than others and things like the temperature and altitude or how the operator sets the dyno up for the test can result in different numbers. The 15% average is a rough ballpark figure that a lot of people use but in reality the loss can be as low as less than 10% and as high as 40% or more depending on the vehicle. I’ve seen newer high performance cars lose less than 10% of their power from the crankshaft to the wheels on a dyno test and have also seen all wheel drive cars like a 435 horsepower V10 powered Audi S6 lose over 30% of it’s power and only put down 300 horsepower to the wheels. In this video the truck they’re testing is losing around 26% of it’s power (assuming it has exactly 395 horsepower stock) due to Parasitic Power Loss which seems a little high to me. Larger tires will rob you of power but I don’t know if this truck is running a larger tire or not. Some vehicles just aren’t very efficient and can lose a lot of power. Anything that loses 15% or less is good and any way that you can lighten the weight of the components like the driveshaft, brake rotors or wheels that are turned by the engine will generally result in more usable horsepower to the ground. The harder the engine has to work to move the vehicle the less power you’ll have to the ground. Hopefully this very long comment gives you a better understanding of why there’s a difference in the horsepower numbers. The article linked below does a good job explaining all the variables that can affect the horsepower numbers a vehicle actually puts out to the ground too. www.superstreetonline.com/how-to/engine/modp-1005-drivetrain-power-loss/

That’s what im wondering, did you ever order an intake ?

I feel like you might be on the wrong channel if you aren't a fan of truck modifications. -Zach

It is really 29 hp.

90% of it is the tune...