Much appreciated!

Is it fixed?

Thank you!

Was it the starter or did you have ground strap issues?

Ground strap was issue.

I have the same issue. With one difference: the starter does start the engine with no stuttering or lag. Then when I drive it and make 10 stops where I turn the engine off and on each time, it decides not to crank crank at all. All lights in the dash light up properly but no crank. I have to let the car sit for a few hours and then the it starts. And the cycle repeats. I will definitely replace the ground wire as indicated in this video. But why would my engine restart if the ground wire was faulty? Any help would be appreciated!

So it sounds like heat is changing resistance in a component. Likely the starter but I would definitely do that cable first.

It’s amazing how bad those grounds get. Glad to help.

I was able to diagnose my x3 bad ground but now I get parasitic draw. My battery keeps draining below 12V when parked an I don’t know what’s causing it. I thought it was my aftermarket radio but i unplugged it an it still happens

@@Mosaic._ - make sure Battery is good. Chasing a battery draw cm be tricky. Especially when options are on timers. The best way to do test is disconnect ground and put a multimeter connected to battery negative and the other to cable. Don’t open doors etc because you will be turning on lights. Now isolate each circuit by removing the fuse. When your meter drops to 0 - it’s that circuit. There should be a good video on KZfaq for that

Wait so i’m confused if the jumper cable trick doesn’t work does that mean it’s a bad starter?

@@jacksunengler451 perhaps or you don’t have a good connection with the jumper cable. I had to try a couple different locations before it worked.

Thank you. Yes - I have made many over the years.

You need to run a cable from body / frame to the engine. Your battery is grounded to the body - so body is a good ground.

Follow diagnostics in video - maybe starter?, aftermarket alarm system?

Amazing the problems created by a bad ground!

I did the same.

Well …I would have run a cable to the battery but it would require 20 feet of booster cable. I chose the negative terminal designed by BMW for boosting your car. I did test that ground terminal to confirm it was good. Thanks for input.

Go through it again and double check your results. Make sure you have good connections at your battery.

It’s sometimes on mount bolt to the starter. It’s got to be there, somewhere. Usually the positive and negative aren’t taped together but maybe a previous repair. You could just add one where my ground was. It won’t hurt anything.

@@canadianwrench I’m taking another look tomorrow. Thanks for the extra tips.

It may help - although I wouldn’t want to trap moisture or salt. I think it was more an age thing in my case. If first one lasted 11 years - I should be good for a decade.

I just bought 1 from the dealer and it's got flexible insulation on it.

Maybe an updated part. Interesting.

I'm doing this project now and I plan on doing this. Anti corrosion battery paste slathered on it, then put heat shrink over it. It cannot make it any worse.

@@Rob-gj4hz good going!

It could be the same part used in several places. When I called dealer - I described it as the lower ground body to engine. You could even make one!

@@canadianwrench Oh ok ok sweet. Thank you so much!

Quite possible. Try the booster cable test. Good luck!

@@canadianwrenchwhats the booster cable test?

Booster cable test - I used 1 cable of booster cable to connect the engine to the body. It’s in the video - 3:00min in.

Good question - I think the old one was copper - because it turned green. The new one - I’m unsure but for the price I would hope it’s part Gold!! If you find an honest answer - let me know.

I believe the new is tin coated copper.

I didn’t catch the number. I just ordered mine at dealer with my VIN as a reference.

Power to everything - Hmmmm. So power to big cable on starter? Power to small wire - trigger wire on starter - power when cranking / key turned? Good engine ground as in video? If yes to all above - Starter - or seized engine.

If engine seized you will still hear a click or clunk from starter. Double check your tests

Starter ok, I'm checking fuses. Which is where I should've started in the first place

​​@@charlesflewissr4428 Was it a relay fuse in your case? Older x3s don't have a starter relay fuse, so he wouldn't be able to cover that in this video

It was the starter, and ground cable. If you have any BMW that's an older vehicle I recommend that you check the under carriage covering an replace if needed. Once water gets in all of the older ground wires corroded! I basically took off all of the ones I could find and cleaned them then used regular old school Vaseline...didn't have to replace the starter...only the Aluminum bolts and rubber gaskets on manifold, which cleared up the singing/wheezing sound when on gas!!! Thank's Fellas

If you have no power at the small white wire - which is trigger wire for starter- then your issue is before that wire. It could be ignition switch, A fuse, possibly an alarm or immobilizer. I’d start with fuses - then check to see if ignition is sending a trigger signal. Does ignition switch have power. Beyond that - cruise KZfaq and see what you can find. I hope this helps!

@@canadianwrench I was able to start the car by jumping a 12v source to the signal wire in the fuse box. That eliminates the EWS being out of sync. Me thinks ignition switch, I've ordered one that should be here next week.

Nice diagnostics!!

@@canadianwrench thx. Got it to start fairly consistently by just running to drive then park then cranking. Weird stuff.

Ahhh - it’s starting to sound like a Neutral Safety Switch.