Just did this on my Focus, didn't have the Actuator Reset Tool available so I just alternated spraying brake cleaner and placing the Actuator back on a few times. Now my Focus runs like it's brand new again. You are a LEGEND dude!!!!!!

Thanks for this video! My 10 year old and I just fought to get Actuator B Out. Took it for a test drive and it shifts better than I ever can remember. YOU ROCK!

Thank you very much for that amazing video! I had this issue with my ford focus. $3,500.00 were asked to fix it. I have tried this and now my car is running fantastic. Special thanks to that unknown angel who suggested me that video!!

Amazing, helpful video brother! FYI - clutch actuator A controls only the odd forward gears (1, 3, 5). Actuator B controls even gears and reverse. Hope this helps if you experience skipping gears.

Thank you for sharing your knowledge to the world, God bless you always .

This needs to be a TSB at Ford for every existing Focus and Fiestas. Really clean that clutch dust lubricate drive!

This video was super helpful. Started having issues with my 2014 Focus and I thought it was the TCM again. Dealer said it was "bent clutch forks" and would be $3000-$4000 to fix. Just went through this process and so far so good.

Just Got the invoice for whole entire replacement, 3k for everything(All) in the Bell Housing, He told me its the Forks A&B inside of the Housing,(From Experience)He's a transmission specialist of 20+years, The #1 atleast in my County, Blessing 🙌

The timing of coming across this video was perfect. I had to look up others things that were going wrong with my daughter's 16 focus and watched this video "just because". I fixed the other problem that she had and magically enough a few days later she was having the hesitation, slipping problem. Ran the code and of course it show Actuator B was stuck. Did as you suggested and problem fixed. Great video and thanks for taking the time to put it together and sharing it with us.

Worked great, drives like new! Great video

Thank you SO MUCH! You’ve saved me thousands of dollars. Tonight I cleaned actuator B following your directions and it made an immediate huge difference. Tomorrow I’ll be cleaning actuator A as well to see if that fixes the occasional small slips I’m getting while slowing down. But cleaning actuator B dramatically improved my ascending shifts. Smooooth now. I’ve been babying it into second gear for years and now I finally have my car back!!

Ford dealer quoted me 3672$ for clutch and fork replacement because it was shuttering while shifting from 1 to 2 gear. That's what you saved me, my 2014 focus has 59000kms on it. Just cleaned both actuators and it runs smooth again. Cheers and thank you from Cananda.🍺

thank you... I won't do this myself, but I now know where I'll take it to get it looked at and hopefully repaired.

I agree with you, after experiencing driving a Ford Powershift dual clutch 6DCT250 for 8 years on Fiesta Ecoboost 1.0L at hot tropical country with total 90k km, I have concluded that this transmission is quite reliable and enjoyable which suits my driving style which has never been trouble since brand new. As far as I know, all Ford Powershift problems are not due to flaw design, but due to 2 material defects supplied by the vendor, namely the TCM and shaft seals on the early generation Powershift, If you get a late generation powershift like I have then it is completely problem free. And apart from that due to lack of maintenance which in my opinion should be cleaned every 50-75k km so that the clutch unit mechanism is smooth and does not jam due to very dirty clutch dust. But by the way thanks for your informative video 🙏

Thankyou for sharing your knowledge and information on cleaning the clutch forks linkage .

6:38 I would recommend using a normal drill and not an impact driver for this as you can set the clutch of the drill so you don't apply more force than desired.

Have 14,000 miles on my 2017 and blown away I’m having this issue already. I hardly drive the car and never imagined something like this before it would be traded in.

Meu camarada, sou brasileiro. Vi seu vídeo e muito obrigado, funcionou bem mano

Appreciate you for this one. You saved me some money.

I have the same Ford Focus 2014, watching your video makes me a little better about owning this car. You are my new Mechanic please don’t go off you tube you are helping people. Thank you 🙏

your da man great detailed video not even on my ase seminars they do it so good

good evening. I would like to thank you for this video it helped me a lot. God bless you

Thank you! Worked great for my 2014 Ford Focus!

Thanx for the video. This help me diagnose a failed actuator. Did the swap to test and was able to flip the non working gears. I'm back to running normal and getting bad shutter on the 1-2 shift which leads me to think the forks are dirty. Gonna try and clean them next. Thx again!!

I did exactly what you showed in your video. Brake clean and Wd40. I didn't have that bit but used a screwdriver like you showed in another video. And it Worked! Thank you. I appreciate you posting these videos.

Just did this on my 2014 Focus that appears to have a sticky clutch and has the same code as the video title. Key is use lots of brake parts cleaner while cranking the clutch actuator hole with the actuator tool, spray, crank, spray crank and only about 10-14 rotations MAX then turn it back down the whole ways. You will notice if you’ve never done this before, the clutch won’t go back down the whole way by itself. The goal is to get the clutch fork to completely release back down on its own after cranking up about 10 rotations. After brake parts cleaner, add a little WD40 to lube the actuator hole, crank up 10 rotations and back down. You may need to put it back together drive it for a little and do some more cleaning if you still have the same code and bad shifts. When this first started, I cleaned and lubed with WD40 as described, but the clutch fork wasn’t releasing back down on its own after being cranked and it was still shifting bad sometimes and showing the code. Drove it for about 2 weeks, then took it back apart and did some more extensive cleaning with the brake parts cleaner and then little WD40 lube at the end then after cranking 10 rotations, releasing the wrench made the clutch release it the whole way back down to the bottom. Now the code is gone and the car drives normal again. It’s just a sticky clutch and needs cleaned.

Very helpful for my Ford Focus 2015. also, Automatic transmisson . thank you !

Guy, your video is very helpful. Thank you. I'm hoping somene helps me to just clean the actuators as I can't go underneath my car without the lift. I got this problem in NC in my way back to New York. Sadly the people just state that is the transmission as you said without the proper disgnosis. It takes 3 days to get the diagnosis over here and i just need to go back. But you are amazing in your process and explanation!

Thank You!!! This worked for me. I made a tool out of an old motor I took out. Thanks for sharing.

Very nice explanation and information, blessings

My mom has this car, and yes it does have this issue. She took it to a mechanic and i bought parts to replace the actuators, but the brobkem still exists. Im traveling back home this month, and I will perform the procedures you did in hopes of alleviating the issues. Thank you in advance, because i thought i needed to get her a new transmission!.

Awesome video !! May need to have my mechanic try this !! Thank you !!!

You have saved my life. I almost drove my car into a canal, it is giving me problems and I am very worried about this. My car is a 2013 Ford Focus SE, I bought it used since I couldn't afford a new one, it has one hundred and eighty thousand miles. I appreciate that your video is subtitled in Spanish, it helps the Spanish-speaking Latino community. To write these letters I used a translator, thank you friend, thank you very much. Greetings from Lehigh Acres in Florida.

FIXED!!!!! Bro, thank you so much!!!!!! Fixed my car last night. Didn't have the tool, so I used a skinny slot flat head bit from my gun kit. As suggested, I used brake cleaner & WD 40. Didn't want to break the flat head bit, so I hand rotated & released for bout 30 mins. Skipped the OBD b/c don't have a scanner. Anyway, my Focus starts right away, no delayed 1st gear engagement, and no shuddering. Thank you, thank you, and thank you.

Thanks for your help

Man your video definitely helped me make a decision to purchase or not! 🙂

not sure what the brake cleaner on my face and camera were for but it worked like a charm! thanks bud!

I presiate for all .. like a good Mexican 🇲🇽 thank you

My car is running like new now, thank you

Great video! Thank you!

It works. Focus 2014 SE 110.000 KM. I just did the B actuator and it kicked in with no errors after driving kinda 30 km.The "reset tool" I used carefully was an Allen key with a rounded head 1/4.Hex the same size does the job too.But it needs to be hold firm while turning and all by hand .It took me half an hour.I didn't even spray that much like here but I'm going to do it again more consistent when I'll open the other actuator these days. Then I erased all codes with the ODBlink dongle. ''P07A4, Transmission Friction Element B Performance/Stuck Off''. ''P2701-00 Transmission Friction Element B Apply Time Range/Performance It runs reverse too with slightly occasional shuddering. At least I can have some more spare time to have a cheaper quote to replace the clutches and eventual forks and clean the build up black powder from the old clutches.

Great video. Thank you for making it!

Battery died got a jump and the car wouldn't drive at all reverse or drive, did the transmission valve resets with my launch scan tool and it worked perfectly these new cars are dumb. Thank you your video helped alot 😂😂

Thanks for the video! I learned allot!!

Man idk what kinda magic this is but it works!! I had code P07A3 friction element A stuck on. Mines a 2012 so no warranty no way im going to the dealer. It would shudder, buck like a horse and skip gears. Tuned that spline thing and it wouldnt spring back. I did your little method turning with an impact, cleaning and spraying wd40 and lithium grease and then it finally turned smoothly by itself. Did it some more to make sure that thing wont get stuck. Cars running smoother than its ever ran before. I'd rather keep doing this every couple of months rather than paying to have the clutch changed. Its not worth it.

I used lithium grease on mine. One other thing I did (saw it on another video) was to drill two 1/4 inch holes in the case. One adjacent to actuator B, and the other at the bottom of the case. Bent the straw on the brake cleaner can at a 45 degree angle and used the hole to wash down the mechanism inside the case with the hole in the bottom used for drainage. It's dry in there so it's not going to hurt anything. I then took the blower gun and blew an insane amount of clutch dust out of the case through the actuator hole.. Washed it down again with brake clean again and then lubed it all. It's crazy because it's a 2017 with only 66k on it. If you're missing the splash shield and/or are otherwise worried about stuff getting in through the holes, a rubber plug or a dab of silicone will easily seal it up.

Thank you , going to try this tomorrow on my sons car . Wish us luck!

Very well done. Working on my friends now so I will try that. Thank you.

Wow! I have a 2016 and I'm scheduled at the ford dealer to fix this Friday. I know they're going to try to charge me for like the whole transmission. I need those tools. Thank you for sharing

Nice info helped me out i turned the fork 14 times by hand. Got tired at 12 or 13 and it spun back lol. I heard a click noise at the end. What does the clicking noise mean?? Anyways I drove it 12 miles in town and on a mike stretch of highway where I can floor it up to 90. I think it’s retraining it but the shifting is a little better since I drive it vs the beginning. The transmission light came on 5 miles into it. Shut car off turned back on and tried reverse i was able to reverse around some cars, trailer back to where I parked it. Moved it back and forth took my foot off pedal and it was going.

Ok, I’m hooked! I bought my first 2012 with this problem as a project. Of course as luck would have it, it wasn’t quite this easy for me.😂 I’m still having a blast working on it. I’ve purchased Forscan and I’m getting a “Clutch travel test error” whenever I attempt a clutch relearn. The car still doesn’t have reverse, 2nd, 4th etc. ( all pointing towards shift fork “b” issues”) The car has 96k on it. It’s had a clutch replacement done and actuator “b” has been replaced recently (I did swap it with actuator “A” confirming both actuators are good. I’ve performed the trick shown in this video to both forks. My next step is to pull the transmission. I’m just wondering if the message I keep seeing verified I’ve definitely got a mechanical problem inside the transmission.

This is actually the 3rd Ford Focus that I've owned. I like them because they are economical, drive and perform pretty well, and I have NEVER had a problem. Until Now... (2018 Focus 4Cyl SE Sedan) Wife's car started acting weird, not accelerating. I thought it was fuel system. Did some work on that. But now it's way worse. It started making weird noises when you open the door. Like the Actuator keeps trying to reset and it can't. This goes on for a while. When the car is off, and parked for hours - you can hear the engine making this noise, like gears moving. I couldn't find ANY info about strange noises coming from the engine while it's parked. Anyway, somehow stumbled onto this video and it has helped me understand. A LOT! THANK YOU!! I went ahead and cleaned and lubed the A actuator. Drove the car but it's still having problems shifting. I'm waiting on jack stands before I can tackle the B actuator. Really hoping that cleaning and lubing up both actuators will solve the problem. If not, at least I have a much better understanding of what's going on. Not sure what my next step will be if Cleaning and Lubing A & B don't solve the problem. Replace the Actuators?

Good job. Glad I still drive my Volvo 240 with 320K miles, so simple and easy. Cheers.

Did this and seems to have solved issue. Will keep posted To sub the tool I used a flat head bit and went slow with the drill. For the actuator I used a square bit. Worked fine 👍 Thank you, saved me alot of money. Keep them coming

Wish I would’ve seen this yesterday lol just replaced a set for a friend

Thank for the video!

Mi hermano saludos desde Colombia gracias dios te bendiga fue muy útil tu ayuda

Thanks for this informative video! My ford focus dont have reverse. And moving forward slowly. Will bring it to dealership tomorrow hope I make it. Let me also mention that Ford has 10 year extended warranty on ford focus in regards with transmission problem. Check it with them too..

God bless you man thanks

Thanks so much 🤠you're very smart 🔧🔧🛠🛠🛠🛠

You may run into a problem with the seal swelling and locking things up. WD40 and CRC equivalent cause rubber components to swell a lot!! Should be mentioned on the cans. Please keep this in mind when using these two sprays. Thanks for the video. Much appreciated

hey btw actuator A controls gears 1, 3, 5 and B controls R,2,4,6 not just R. they work in parallel to come in when the other clutch disengages with minimal power loss, its how its so fuel efficient. :)

🎉A+++ Thank you so much for this video. I’ve had a problem for a few months that I fixed in a few minutes thanks to you. Much appreciation Amigo.

I got an used 2014 Focus, 1 week after got problems with transmission: some "crack" before moving reverse/drive, it also increase a lot RPM before engaging next gear and it was impossible to select the sport mode. Now it's been stuck in Ford's service during 2 months right now. I hope I had found this before leaving mi car to the fortune!!! 🥴 Great video, thanks a lot!!!

Got code P07A3, friction A stuck on, did this to both A+B, (A was real bad), IAC code went away, reset light, done, drives awesome now 👍

Ford TSB for shuddering should keep the severe shudder at bay for a while. We've had a 2012 focus dct in our family for years and from 70k miles til the 230k it's got now, doing the TSB has 'scrubbed' the clutches enough to deglaze them. However, if you're getting codes, always check them first, if no codes and just shuddering look up the TSB and run from a dead stop through the first four gears at an aggressive pace a few times (3-4) all at once. Our focus is bucking mad today, shifting causes rev jumps and feels like slipping in the first clutch and finally threw codes so now I get to diagnose from there. Most like the forks at this point (230k miles). Clutches lasted this long, which is impressive so if you have less miles and just the shudder in 1st-2nd, do the TSB and see if that helps. This video is another good idea to increase some life in your lemon car.

Hello sir how are you I am Mohammad Nadeem this is your very helpful video I like very much

Top man thanks for this respect

i just bought a ford focus st for 600$ with only 125k miles on it i plan on using it on turo as an income generator. It has transmission problems so imma try this thank you

Trying it tonight, fingers crossed!

KZfaq suggestions are trying to help a brother out hell yeah

You are the best Thank you very much

adding my opinion to this. I have a 2013 that has had intermittent shudder ever since I bought it. I have followed the issue with these transmissions for years and watched many of the supposed solutions to help or "band aid" the issues with shuddering and check engine codes. Thus far, tuning has been the #1 fix to this tranny, however, continuous data logging must be done and the shudder can still return, especially in lots of stop and go traffic. The Ford recalls were just a temporary fix that accomplished nothing. Re-grounding the wires was not a solution either. And finally flooring the gas pedal from a dead stop to reset the ECM didn't work either. Recently , owners & me too, with some basic mechanicking skills have been replacing the shift actuators and or trying this method of cleaning & lubricating the actuator hole where it meets the forks.... And it WORKS pretty darn good and maybe the best temporary fix or band-aid that I have seen thus far. And it makes sense. However, because this transmission is flawed, I believe the cleaning and or replacement of the shift actuators ($80 a piece) is something that is going to have to be performed every 20,000 to 30,000 miles to help extend the life of this transmission. Of course, driving styles and habits dictate how frequent this has to be done. After all of these years of 12-18 Focus owners scratching our heads, this maybe the best and most cost effective solution to help this transmission extend its life and perform like it suppose to. Again this is just my opinion cause Im not a hard core mechanic

I can’t believe the timing of this vid. I’ve had many many issues with my exact same 2014 Black Ford Focus SE and the reverse is now going out every day (really acts up as the weather gets warmer). I’m really hoping that I can see similar results after trying this out.

amazing video hope to give us more ideas about focus 2014 since the garage are fooling people and charging much for small things

Cool never thought of it

This is EXACTLY whats going on with mine! This video is very easy to understand and helpful !!! Yo THANK U Quick question... If it does go backwards sometimes... This means it just needs a clean for now, nothing is broken correct???

Impact-Driver has small battery which prevents damage. Drill should have a smalll battery too or go slow. Be very carefull. Apply extra fluid to help clean. Have patience. Good Luck

Thanks for Guidance sir

Fantastic job you explain it in a real understandable language. You are awesome. Do you ever work on a kia

My focus is slipping slightly in first, so I will test this fix out. I think I will get an extra actuator from the junkyard and cut off the splined part to make my own tool.

Yo! Thank you for the video. I'm preparing to do this work on my 2014 Ford Focus se. Lately, after 20 min of driving or so, my check engine light will come on, I'll lose Reverse and switching gears from 1-2 and 2-3 are really rough. I've seen on other videos that you can and maybe should (?) clean the forks with Brake cleaner and lubricate with WD-40, I also purchased 2 new actuators just to cover all my bases. My question to you is, do I need some fancy diagnostic tool to do this job? Or can I get by just cleaning the forks, replacing the actuators, and restarting the car? If I need some sort of Diagnostic tool, what capabilities must it have? I just ordered a FORScan tool, will I be able to do what is necessary with FORScan? Any help would be so greatly appreciated man. Thanks!

Going to try this on a customers vehicle, his car is having this issue, thanks

Thank you!!!

Do you think is a good idea to put a vacuum hose in the hole to remove some dust from transmission housing before spraying brake cleaner.. I don’t have any problem yet, just thinking to do it as a preventive maintenance

If you fix it. Sell that POS as fast as possible 😂

Thanks, I just Subscribed

My just-acquired 2013 Focus SE with 80k miles is *just beginning* to be a little sluggish in gears and *very mild* shuddering every now and then. I'm going to do this now while I'm replacing all the motor mounts, might as well I'll be right there anyway. Why wait for things to gum up completely? Also going to do the grounding fix on all the three ground points I know about, it's never been done on this car. Hopefully this will preempt future problems. Very helpful videos I reapply appreciate the time you've taken to share.

There are 2 actuator motors for the 2 shifting forks which work in groups (A is for 1st, 3rd, 5th) (B is for 2nd, 4th, 6th, R) and 2 actuator motors for the 2 dry clutches (A and B correspond to the same gears as the shifting motors). Any one of these 4 motors can fail or the part of the TCM that drives them causing very different results.

Thank you for making these videos. I have a 2105 focus and had no idea about any of these fixes. I cleaned both A and B as described, but when I started up the car, I no longer had reverse or drive. It shows its in Drive but doesn't move and RPMs don't go over 1200. Do I need to do the relearn before it will work?

Master!

thank very much

Works long enough for me to get a FOR SALE sign in it I’m good with that!

When you're working it with the impact are you going in forward and reverse?

Excellent video! I have a question: can I do the entire cleaning process without using the scan tool? Excelente video! tengo una pregunta: puedo realizar todo el proceso de limpieza sin utilizar la herramienta de escaneo?

Cleaned and lubed actuator B. Now it runs and shifts great. Best $22.50 investment I’ve made so far. Saved thousands from taking to stealership.

A is for gears 1 3 5. B is for 2 4 6 R

Good video, I used a used part and took it apart to make a tool. Long story short, the bottom fork wound up all the way and then unwound itself all the way. A actuator DID NOT spin back all the way, it would spin about 4 spins and stop. Does that mean the fork is bad? I'm not a very mechanical person but it definitely didn't spin back freely like B actuator did. I tried spraying it multiple times and using plenty of WD-40 and it still didn't spin free all the way back. It also looked off center and made a clicking sound at about the last 6 turns. Would I need to take this transmission apart?

"Don't force it" Also him. Let's impact it Lol good video

I love it, sis, make me one for my bedroom