I set mine at 10 and 2 and it’s running a little rough

i realize it is kinda off topic but do anyone know of a good place to stream newly released tv shows online?

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@Cayden Lance happy to help :D

The P0016, and P0017 codes are the most worrisome as they are timing codes. If you open it back up and reset the timing, the most common issue that could have caused you trouble is having chain slack in the wrong place. In one of my videos on this timing system( look for the playlist of all of the videos) I show how to reset the tensioner when removed. Make sure you set the mark on the crank first, then set the intake cam, then use a wrench to roll the cam enough to pull any slack toward the exhaust cam then set the exhaust cam. You may have to roll the exhaust cam just a little to get the sprocket on, then the valve spring tension should pull all the slack to the tensioner side of the chain. Then you can install and activate the tensioner. I hope this helps. You may also pull the VVT solenoids and check the screens. If you see any trash in the screens replace the solenoids because if they are stitching they can cause timing codes as well.

@@JosephVollmar intake and exhaust cams are new. Replaced them when I did the chain.. I did set them at about 10 and 2 is that the correct placement -#1 was at too dead center. Is there away to make sure I’m at top dead center on the number one cylinder

Mine did not but still had slack did yours also

@@middletennesseepicker6245 did you replace phasers?

It will take a long long time, but they would eventually make it back. All you can do is spin it over by hand and make sure valves and pistons don’t make contact, and after 2 revolutions of the crank the timing marks on the sprockets should be in the same position they started in.

They are torque to yield. I don’t remember the exact specs, but make sure to use new bolts.

Any suggestions? Still runs like poop and have tried erasing all the codes and resetting the ecu. But it still goes into power reduce mode and I have codes for the cps and camshaft positions and all are brand new sensors

@@zackrahmer2044 from what I have read it's the high pressure fuel pump, or faulty solenoid sensor especially if you bought a cheap one that's not oem. I'm about to do this to mine it was something I'm worried about too because mine stalls and runs like shit. If you figured yours out let me know

dont run them low on oi. oil change at 50 %. if they did a bad job it would of blew up in a week.

for anyone reading this sevice parts identification located on the glovebox door you will see a bunch of 3 dig codes the timing goes by what you 3 dig code it mine is lea same as this one the other code is for the other timing setting.... stupid as that is...... get the wrong one timing will be off 180 deg. throwing the code. at least at 180 deg the valves dont hit the pistons,,,,,

So in your video the gold link is on the crank but in coyles installation guide its up top off the cam sprocket is that because it's a lea engine? I followed coyles installation procedure and have the same results that the person above got

Double check that you are TDC exhaust stroke on cylinder 1. I know that sounds counterintuitive, but they speck that for most of these engines. If you are still having issues send me the year make and model of your vehicle and I’ll do some digging. There are supposedly multiple different RPO codes for engine revisions, wondering if you don’t have an oddball.

@@JosephVollmar it is a 2010 Chevrolet Equinox 2.4 Ecotech I’ve replaced the head as it had bent valves. Thanks for the quick reply brotha!

Yes, it is made by Dorman and the part number is 917-954. It replaces the upper plug in the head and has an allignment pi in the back of it in the event that the original bolt was sheared, or the threads in the bolt hole are messed up.

he did lol so did I

yes

Chico Vaskuez if the marks were ground off by the old timing chain I would recommend replacing them as there is no good way to make sure it is set properly otherwise. You have to have the marks to line up the colored links.

@@JosephVollmar I do I have both chains I have the sprockets and I have the tensioners I just not sure exactly which way to put the mark on the top right sprocket in the back to make sure it's lined up

Chico Vaskuez the timing mark should be rear of center pointed toward the cabin slightly. Where they point really doesn’t matter as long as they line up with the proper colored links in the chain. You can be a few degrees off as long as all of the links line up on the timing marks. If you are having issues with where they say to line them up check your RPO codes in the glove box and make sure they match your emissions sticker under the hood. There are different timing sequences for different RPO codes. The vehicle I put together in this video had been in an accident and the emissions sticker was not the same as the RPO in the glove box and it played hell for me until I figured out the issue. I don’t have the other timing procedures here at the house or I would post them for you.

@@JosephVollmar I believe I'm not positive but I believe it's the same is Yours its the LT is 2010 and I'm pretty sure the marks are the same as the marks of the vehicle you are working on because information that I have obtained is the same as the video you posted that's why I asked you a question do I just line up the mark that I have now on the one and I'll know that the mark on the other one is going to be going straight up like the video you posted just use that as a starting point and once I get that make sure that the number one is up top dead center I believe I'm not positive but I believe it's the same is yours it's LT it's a 2010 and I'm pretty sure the marks are the same as the marks is the vehicle you were working on because information that I've got is the same as a video you posted that's why I asked you a question do I just lineup the mark that I have now on the one and I'll know that the mark on the other one is going to be going straight up like the video you posted and just use that as a starting point and once I get that make sure that the number one is up top dead center and go from there

Chico Vaskuez Even in the same model and trim they did use slightly different engines, not sure why. With that beside the point with number one at top dead center compression stroke you can see about 6:15 in the video that the intake cam timing mark should be about 45 degrees pointed to the front of the car. Start at the intake cam, (black link) then install the front guide, then set the crank. This will be a gold link and the timing mark should be about 5 o’clock, then the rear guide and exhaust cam. It should point at about the same angle as the intake cam, but to the rear of the car. You may have to rotate the exhaust cam a few degrees to get to the correct link. If you have one mark that keeps coming up 180* out you have a different engine. I hope this is helping. It has been almost a year since I did this job so I’m trying to recall the details the best I can without my info I have at work.

I would generally recommend it by 150k miles unless you have owned the car since new and changed the oil every 3000. I have seen these engines in cavileers g well past 300k miles when properly cared for. The timing chain is the only do or scrap maintenance item I know of on these cars. If you ever notice an engine rattle on start up it is time for a timing set no matter what the mileage.

Thanks a lot! Seems like a good engine. Now I'm looking for used GMC Terrain (2012-2017) with exact the same ECOTEC 2.4. I think it will last much longer than newer generation with turbo 1.5 and 9-speed transmission

@@gilARENASbert from what ive noticed after a 2.2 ecotech, and now a 2.4, they suck...