Here's the link for the piece: www.1aauto.com/1A/DoorLockActuators/Chrysler/TownCountry/1ADLA000

I have worked in the industry for 32 yrs and have never work on such a bad cluster flop in all my life It took me 5 hours to do this door lock actuator I would love to have the engineer do this himself I would have never invented such a creature.

Thank you! Just performed this invasive procedure on my 2012 T&C, and man do I hate whoever designed that thing. Also thank you for the info on the lock actuator; that saves a lot of money. After doing this, here's what I would say: - I had my laptop in the garage with this video up so I could reference the steps as I went - watch part of the video, perform the step, repeat. - Give yourself a lot of time. I did this in the Texas heat, so with breaks, etc, it took about 3 hours start to finish. - Having a helper would be very useful for things like operating the window controls, holding the door in position, etc - Move all the middle seats out of the way and push the front seats all the way forward to give you as much room as possible - I used blue painters tape on the outside of the glass and up over the top of the door. Held really well. - Take lots of pictures of the routing of all the cables, wires, and the lock rod so you can put it back. - Use something to keep all the screws handy; I used a cheap $1.50 fishing lure box to keep the different bolts separate - Be careful running the window regulator up and down without the window. It can over-travel and break the brackets on the window tracks. - Everything in the door is sharp; my arm looks like I lost a fight to a feral cat

jsopala - this is the best video yet on this repair. I did my right slider about 3 years ago on my 2011 - and it took me about 8 hours to figure it out. Today I did the left slider and it took me about 4 hours. Your method seems best -- it is much easier to fit the rear piece (window channel, accuator, 1/2 the assembly on the plastic frame) before installing the door panel. 3 years ago I tried all sorts of gymnastics trying to get the damn thing back together. I did not separate the two plastic frames though -- somehow I was able to wiggle this thing back together. I wish I did it your way! Great instructional.

2016 T&C. Great video. I just did this myself and found the easiest way was to remove the door and lay it on a table and do pretty much everything as you described. 7 screws and power connecter to disconnect. This makes it much easier to access those troublesome spots with out having to open and close the door and your not in an awkward position all the time. You don't necessarily have to block the window in position either. I put a support under the door and removed the 7 bolts that held the door to the upper, middle, and lower tracks. My wife helped me move it to a table and off to the races.

Thanks Joe, just performed this weekend! I greatly appreciate the video you provided. I don't know how you kept your cool in some of those tricky situations! Our door completely quit working no manual operation or anything. But got the part off eBay for 16$ took me a while but also saved 800$ plus. Thanks again.

I just wanted to voice my appreciation for this repair guide. Hands down the best resource for this repair. I repaired our 2017 G/C GT about a year ago and now the door is stuck in the lock position and I cannot open that door now. I know it’s the poor quality actuator I purchased however I have done the job before. So now I will be proficient in doing it again lol. THANK YOU FOR MAKING THIS VIDEO!!!!!!!

Thanks! Got it done, and can confirm that the recommended part from 1A auto does work on a 2013 T&C. Difficult and frustrating project, your video made it much better. I had to refer to it several times during the install.

I am having this problem no lock open.... I knew right away I was not going to attack this problem, I watched your whole video as you are awesome at making videos!!!

Did my R&R on the RH door. Took it out and in as a complete unit. Was not easy. Outer door hand cable and the lower door cable was the only cable disconnect to do. A lot of pushing and pulling to get the dam thing in and out but possible ...Lubing the aft window guide helped to get it back in. Thanks for the video. Your hints and the pictures of the guts of this thing gave me the courage to do the job. Thanks, jsopala!!! Saved some buckaroos! Still took 6 hours total to do this.

Oh man this project nearly broke my will to live. The swear count was so high. Definitely huge thanks to the poster as this video made all the difference in the world. At first it seemed to be going well and even after taking out the actuator part I was a little cut up and pretty frustrated but again the video helped. Was he right that you had to push down and twist it out? Yes. Did it happen easily? Absolutely not. It's like wrestling a cactus and is just as fun. So then I change the actuator lock and try to get the actuator part back in.... major swearing was involved and I am thankful my kids were not around. Then at 17:14 it instructs you to just slide the panel into the plastic groves.... oh man... I tried for 40 minutes and the process took a year off my life. I ended up taking the whole thing back out (😡) and attaching it. Then wrestling the whole thing back in. I would have recommended to keep as much together as possible. Great video but terrible project. This man is a saint for keeping so calm cause I cursed every engineer ever involved with the design of this door. Took me 6 hours and am glad I saved the money but man I would not recommend it.

Great video! It took me about 2 hours to do mine on my 2014 Dodge GC. I left the whole inner assembly all together rather than taking the cables all apart, but to each his own. Thanks much!

I referenced this video, and I must say that taking the window out makes everything so much easier! That rear bolt for the window guide on the door lock actuator is almost impossible without removing the window. Other than the exterior trim panels on the door. And removing the entire sliding door is also another way to make your life alot easier lol

Thanks for the video; it definitely help guide me through the process. I just completed this repair on my 2019 DGC GT. The outer trim panel on mine was a bit more difficult to remove due to additional clips, velcro, a window shade, and very tight fits that were difficult to pry off. I was able to remove the entire inner panel without disconnecting most of the wiring and cabling or removing rubber grommets. I was even able push the entire panel back up in one shot. However, the guide wasn't properly seated around the glass. The trick to fixing that was to remove a trim panel on the outside of the door. This provided easy access to adjust it properly.

After watching this, i realized im more than willing to pay someone now to do this hahaha. my van isnt failing in the lock actuator but the motor the pulls the door closed once you shut the door. thanks for the video.

this video is the BEST ever!!! I tried to take apart my door without watching this and failed. Then, step by step I followed this video! It worked! BTW... Advance Auto does NOT sell the actuator for the 2010 T & C. You must ask for the 2007 one which they had in stock for $63. Only problem for me was the window regulator came apart on me, probably from my first attempt of repair. I damage the regulator wires by trying to repair it. Had to go to the junk yard to get one off a Dodge Caravan. Now I'm back in business. Can't thank you enough!

I just finished this on my 2016 Town and Country. I actually broke the plastic bracket that the lock actuator assembly and the window track fit onto. $11 from dealer. I also didn’t rejoin the assembly to the window regulator panel. No need to and will make a future job a lot easier, just be sure the piece slides behind the window track. Feeling proud as dealer quoted me $800 to replace it and I was in it for $60.

jsopala thank you SO MUCH for posting this video. With your help I was able to tackle this in about 2 hours...I was prepared for 6. I totally shocked myself. You took all the unknowns out of this job with your video which was a huge help. I wound up taking it out as one assembly and putting it back in as one assembly. I lubed up that rear widow channel good and got someone to help maneuver the panel assembly in and up while I found the holes for the bolts of the actuator sub assembly at the back of the door and bolted it up. I did find that there is one slight difference between the 2007 actuator and one for my 2011 and later. That is there is a tiny tab on the electrical connection of the actuator that secures the electrical plug of that harness to the actuator. The 07 would slide on and off and not lock onto anything while my stock one locked in. To secure it I used a small zip tie because I sure did not want vibrations to make the electrical connection come off the actuator over time necessitating me to go back in there. Thanks again for posting this!

Man, this ate up an entire weekend, but it’s done! And everything works as it should. Couldn’t have done it without this vid. Thanks a million!

It was going to be an $800+ job, but thanks to you and time on my hands it was done with just the cost of the actuator. -$71.00 at Auto Zone. Thank you for helping me save my money for rent next month Cuz!!!!

Thank you for this instructive video. I was waiting for good weather here in Ontario Canada and finally the day arrived. It brought me some pain to out the internal system but it is worthy in terms of money. Work made with the same recommend actuator for Dodge Grand Caravan 2011. To hold the glass I use two Silicone spatula spoons $3... It is safer! Warning: Avoid close the door completely while you are working on it... Then you have to guess what steel cable you have to pull manually in order to open it again.

Great video. I did the left door with the assembly all in one piece which required removing the window, and finding new clips to replace the ones I broke removing the exterior trim panel to do so. Then I found your video when it came time to do the right side door. Two pieces is the way to go for sure. Full disclosure my panel was not a simple “rotate counter clockwise and pop it out”. The plastic connector that joins the two pieces together broke when I rotated the door. Now Ive realized that because the lock assembly/window track bolts in with 5 of its own bolts, and the main panel had its own bolts, that connection between the two isn’t even required. First one took 6 hours (including finding a body shop with clips). This one took me 1:45! Thanks again.

Just completed this job, could not have done it without this video - so thank you! This job is not for the weak minded.

This is an awesome video. Did it in 1 hour and 40. The grommets on the right side, you don't have to mess with. But he was on point with the whole video. Kudos points to him. I took the two silver bolts out on the left side of the handle that opens the door so I can get the cable out easier. And then I bolted it back afterwards and then pulled the whole assembly out

Very good video, I’m impressed not one cuss word for such a over engineered mess of a door actuator. This is the guy you want for your neighbor !!!

This was a great and detailed video on this fix. One thing I would add is the description of re-attaching the cable to the outside door handle. You said just feel around for it. It is much easier if you can see what you are doing. If you pulled the rubber piece from the bottom of the window, you can look down inside the door from there and see clearly the cable you are taking off the outside door handle and later re-attaching. But thanks again...working great!

Thanks for this. Saved me a ton of money hiring someone to fix it. For anyone wondering I can confirm this works for a 2016 also. Just replaced my passenger side one last night. Luckily I don't have power windows so it came apart and went together a little easier.

the coolest thing in the world is that you showed your own music. the internet has become a place that is no longer friendly to the people uploading and finding new music. it has become another means of throttling us all back where we are all listening to corporate ran media from iheartradio, formerly known as clear channel communications.

To be honest, it is so complicated for me, too many cables, bolts, and wires, but you did great work with one hand only 👍

Thank you!!! Just replaced this on my 2016 Dodge GC and it took me about 2 hours. Probably would have took twice as long or more without this video. Don't be intimidated, you can do it too. Just follow the steps and get r done!

MAN you just saved my life posting this video!!

I am going to add this bit of help, I struggled for a while trying to put it back together. I put it back together in separate pieces like the op did. I initially could not get it to lock the 2 pieces together, and I tried for hours. The secret? after you put the window up and wedge it, power down the window motor so that the 2 mount points that you unbolted for the window at the bottom, drops about 2 inches. Once I did this, I was able to snap the large panel back into the plastic 3 tab door actuator/window rail on my first try, in 5 seconds as you get a ton more room to work as the window is not stopping you. I hope this saves someone hours.

Wow its an absolute jig saw puzzle it would be quicker to just weld my door shut

Thanks for the video. Helped a lot. Two other things that helped. Popping the outside trim off of the c post to adjust the window slide. Then placing the actuator assembly in place, backing it out slightly to connect it back to the door panel assembly. I couldn't get them to connect together otherwise, and couldn't get the whole thing to slide in already connected.

Dude, this video saved me $978. Local dealership quoted me on labor for this. Lock only cost me $28. Took me a Friday night, Saturday afternoon, and a few hours on Sunday. It sucked. Like really bad. I would have rather wrestled an alligator. But thanks to you and this video I was able to save some $$$ and learn that automotive engineers can suck at their job and projects.

Thank you for the uploading, it helped me very much. For the second time I succeeded in 2 hours... OK, the whole thing is more sophisticated if you have manual sliding doors (like me) and only two hands... :) By the way I used duct tape to hold the window in the upper position. Best regards from Hungary!

If, like in my case, the door ceased in the lock position you will not be able to take the inside panel off unless the door is open. If this is the case, take the outer cover off where the door handle is (it easily prys off with a flathead screwdriver) and force and hold the lock latch beyond it's normal unlock position (it may snap back) and pull on the handle -presto!. Was so nervous that i would never be able to get the door open to take the interior panel off, but this little trick worked like a charm without damaging anything.

I'd like to say thank you to this creator! What a huge pain of a project! Just got the actuator switched only to break something on the window arm (

Thank you - used this to get through the same repair on our 2014 Town & Country.

Thank you for doing this! I broke the rear plastic section trying to remove everything so I'm off to the wreckers for a good one. I'm giving myself most of the day to do this job!

READ THIS - IF YOUR SLIDING DOOR IS STUCK AND UNABLE TO OPEN. I was unable to open driver side sliding door for months (no buzzing noise from lock mechanism on this side). The manual lock actuator for this door was stuck and could not be forced. The tip about pressing the unlock button and forcing the manual door lock at the same time worked to release the actuator!! KEEP IN MIND... This did not work when using the unlock button on the remote... I had to use the unlock button on the driver door. Now the door lock on this side works fine (like it was never broken). Not sure how long this will last but at least I can open the door currently.

Thank you so much for this detailed video. Even though this repair is a major hassle, your video and instructions saved me a lot of money. Thank you again.

Diving into the a project and no looking back. Thanks for the video. I was stuck disassembling the cables not even knowing the actual place of the actuator. I think you just saved be 2 hours of what ifs.:) Still not a simple task. I'm sure there will be a left over screw at the end. Cheers

Great video work... Your descriptions were great and I love your sense of humor. I had my tablet in the van playing your video over and over again. Just like having a good buddy with you helping. I also like your music. 😁

Great video. Just did it on a 2016 grand caravan. Parts are different when it comes to the window slider, but mostly the same. Make sure to check your child lock mechanism while you have the piece out. Turns out mine got broke off where is comes into the main mechanism and the actuator was fine.

Thank you for the source. Every place I looked wanted $100+ for each actuator. Compared to your 2013 my 2006 T&C is a piece of cake.

This is why my local dealer wanted $1,800.00 to fix. 4 hours..... and done. Thank you.

Thank you for the video, very helpful. The job was painful! It took my five hours to compete

Yesterday I fixed this lock actuator according to this movie. I can only thank You for this movie! Without it, this wouldn't be possible at all to replace this... The person who designed those door was a son of devil.... It took me 6 hours and I wasn't alone as I was fixing this with my brother in law... I have no idea how the author of this movie did it alone and with one hand busy with camera :) good job!

Thanks for posting this vid, I will be doing this to my 2010 basic one. It's a totally common problem on all models from 2007-2014.

I could not have done this without your video. Thank you!! Best on KZfaq for this type of thing. It took several hours over three days, but its finally done and working!! In hindsight, I might have just paid someone the $800. It may not be an engine teardown, but it's close!

This video was helpful in many ways man thanks. I had to perform this job on two different vans. But I did them with the door off the vehicle.

Thanks for this video. Just finished replacing it on my 2015 caravan. Saved me $800! Had to watch another video to figure out how to open the door.

Excellent video!!! Well thought out and executed. Couldn't have done this without your help and advice.

Thank you for the video. I found your video when I was stuck around 7:32. Will continue work after watching again. I think its over engineered.

Hi Joe, Thanks so much for the assist here. My boys and I were able to get this done in an afternoon. Price went up slightly to $28. ;-) What a huge help using that part reference from a 2007 Caravan. One thing I would recommend, though, would be to *start only* the two window guide bolts at bout 16:00 - and do not install the three latch bolts. This gives that latch assy a lot of room to move. Otherwise, getting the actuator assy to engage properly with the door cover (@17:15) is a *bitch*. We fought with that for some time. Once we removed the three latch bolts and seriously loosened the window guide bolts (just start them in), the actuator assy snapped right in with the help of a screwdriver to pry it forward while pushing the cover back. Just a hint of the rectangular hole of where those pins engage is showing, you can again put a screwdriver in there and pry the actuator assembly backwards now and you will hear it snap into place. Then it's a simple matter to tighten the window guide bolts and reinstall the latch bolts. I didn't try it but I wonder if removing the window and inserting the whole unit together might not be easier. Next time, eh? Anyway, thanks again for the help!

Dude ... you saved my ass!! Great video. Wells part from Rockauto for 2007 worked great in my 2013 T&C. Didn't have to remove the little orange clip, either. New one came with a better one. Three thumbs up!

Thank you so much for the video. I ordered the part from A1 auto and it works. My door would not lock, manually or automatically, the manual lock wouldn't move at all. It was a giant pain getting it all back in and then the door wouldn't open so I took it apart again. It turns out as I was putting it back in, I engaged the child lock so i wouldn't open from the inside. Once I figured that out it went back together and it works great. Thanks again for the video.

2017 Grand Caravan owners - this issue is covered under an EXTENDED WARRANTY! Call your dealer first to check. I found my letter from FCA after completing this repair and was pretty bummed that I did all of this myself with no method for reimbursement. If yours is not covered here are my lessons learned: unscrew both latches from inside the door, and disconnect the cable from the door handle inside the door. Do not disconnect any of the cables or rods from the plastic door assembly itself - it will not help. Finally and most importantly, the assembly with the lock actuator is foam taped to the inside of your C pillar! The plastic trim on the c pillar (outside rear pillar of the sliding door) must be removed. Not only does this make install a breeze, it has to be resealed anyways to prevent water intrusion into the door. I spent hours fighting this before I figured out what was going on.

Thanks for the great video! We have 2010 G. Caravan making the horrible buzzing noise when unlocking. Now we know for sure what it is and what to do. I think I see why the dealer would charge so much for this repair, geez! I will be attempting this repair in the near future.

Thank you so much. I will say, that for the 17:22 mark, I could not get the actuator assembly snapped back in from that side. However, I was able to slide other arm through larger opening on the other side of the panel (inside the door) and finally get them to fit together.

Thanks for awesome video. Just curious, I have a 2011 town and country and was wondering if the part you recommend will be the one I need to order...seems that they want a lot more money than the one you recommend. Will it still work in a 2011 if I order your recommended part. Also, mine is making the buzzing noise but everything still works as it should...if not repaired, will this make the door not open and lock anymore? Thanks!

This video was the best help in resolving the problem with the replacing of the actuator. did the job jsut as shown and saved mucho money. Thanks

Was a lot more difficult than even the video. Taking out the panel required pushing with a thin putty knife against the track while wiggling the inner door panel. Sprayed some silicone on the track to reinstall, made it easier. Overall, difficult but satisfying project.

Thanks for the video. Used it to fix the lock on my 2014 town and country.

I did this repair on a 2018. Thank you for taking the time to make this.

Thank you very much for this video. It helps me replace my 2013 VW Routan's actuator, which is exactly the same. It is much more difficult than I expected, I spent one whole day on this. So far the only problem remain is that the fastener/retainer for the plastic door panel seems no longer be able to lock the panel. You said you cracked a couple of them too at 20:47, do you have any solution or recommendation on this issue? Once again, thanks for the detailed tutorial and the parts.

Great work!, and much gratitude to you Sir! Thank you for creating and sharing the video! It is informative and to the point on both big picture and the details...with some great words of encouragement (and tunes) along the way! Just did my second door lock actuator with your instructions...did my '11 DGC 3 years ago and this past weekend, did one on the '17 DGC.... Projects like this make us all better for future projects to come....but sometimes, I'm tired of getting better! :) and....why isn't Stellantis using parts with longer life times?!?

im amazed how you put that thing back together without taking a pictures.

Thanks so much for the video. Saved me so much headache. Got it fixed in about 3 hours.

Thank you so much for this video! I was able to replace mine in a 13 T&C as well. The only issue is that when I put it back together the power sliding door would not shut all the way. Everything was connected properly as far as I could tell. I reached out to a friend that is an engineer at Chrysler and he thought it needed to be reprogrammed. I took it to the dealer, paid $50 for the reprogramming. The PDS would work properly when activated by the handle but not the key fob or interior buttons. Just got back from my 2nd trip to the dealer and they are now saying its a problem in the rear latch assembly and needs to be replaced. Any thoughts on that? They estimated $1,000 for that so its probably not going to happen. I found the assembly for $450 on a mopar site but its still pretty steep.

Most informative video I can find on this subject. thanks for posing your adventure!

Just did one today, I've been a tech for 26 years. What a pile of engineering cluster f@!(k. I swore like a sailer. Got it done but geez. Besides that book time showed 1.7 hrs. Glad I saw many posts on the actual time.

Thank you for such a comprehensive tutorial! You saved me a lot of money. Cheers!

Waw, thanks for your sharing, I got Dodge Grand Caravan 2011 and I have same problem you fixed and I’m thank you for your help.

Thanks for all of your time and talents

IMPORTANT!! Try forcing open the lock on the sliding door while pressing the unlock button on the driver 's door it may clear the jam in the actuator and fix the problem. Try it several times if it doesn't work from the first time.

I had a tough time because my door was stuck closed. I figured out a couple things. The metal bar is the door lock. If it isn’t moving correctly, push it INTO the actuator to get it to unlock. Then, I had to pull the cable that unlatched the front of the door while pulling the cable that triggers the door open. My old actuator wasn’t entirely burnt out, apparently. The door opened like it’s supposed to. I’m wondering if it wasn’t just a timing of all these pulley cables that caused the problem, and obviously, the jammed lock.

Shout out ATX! LOL But I am in the process of tackling this project. My door lock at handle is stuck on passenger rear and noticed the motor does not power when using remote or door buttons. If pushed hard enough to unlock/lock the power door functions act accordingly. However, this video suggests that the door lock actuator is similar across years. Wondering if there was any sign of the speed sensitive lock feature staying intact? Or was this ever a feature considered? We have a 2017 DGC GT

If I don’t have the sliding doors do I need to put the bracket back in there? Hard to fit it back in

Thank you for the video, there is no way im paying 800 for this. Im sending this video to my wife, so she understands why ill be in the shop for a couple hours. Lol

you saved me so much. Thanks!

Hope you are still monitoring this as I have an issue. I removed and reinstalled what I thought was done correctly. I plugged electronics back in, but the door is now stuck open. I cannot manually close the door or close with buttons. Can you please help?

Just used this video a second time. Thanks!

Thank you so much for posting. I am going to need to tackle this issue, but I don't know if I would have attempted without your vid. Thanks. Ill let you know how it goes.

Thank you for this instructive video! Gud Luck! (from Germany)

Does a bad actuator make it impossible to lock the door manually? I have a 2011 T&C. All my doors except the passenger sliding door are perfect - just that one door won't lock with fob, driver side buttons or even manually. It just won't lock at all! also what made you decide to go with this part vs the 5020678AA that is supposed to go with the vehicle? It is a $70.00 price difference I would love the savings but I am worried because of the work involved to do the repair. I would hate to be stuck waiting for the other part to ship if this one doesn't work.

Hi Joe, First, I want to thank you for your informative video. I follow your step to replace my 2012 Chrysler T&C. Everything is work fine now except the sliding door window won't roll all the way up. I think I missed the part to roll the riser down after the glass is lock in place. What should I do to get it fix. Please adviced. Thank you?

great video, thanks a lot for making it easy to follow

Thanks for convincing me that it is totally NOT worth the trouble to try to fix this. I don't use the passenger side sliding door much anyway.

Thank you, knowledge is timeless. Help me big time today!💯

Sir, If I ever meet you in real life, I'm buying you a beer 🍺. Took 8 hours but finished. Oh and you walk through worked for my 2017 model

Awesome job of explaining! Thank you for sharing Joe!

I like your video and believe this works for my 2016 TC, however, our sliding door will not open for me to unbolt from the door jam. Do you have any tips for getting the door open that I have not tried yet. I've gone through all the disconnect battery, fuses stuff. None of that worked. Really getting frustrated with this job. Your video looked easy but again you were able to open your door. What can I do at this point?

😂 Better than Netflix comedy show, Thank you!

Thank you for sharing this great video. I wonder why we need to detach the window from riser?

Thanks for the extremely detailed video. Honestly, I can live with the electric locking actuator not working as long as I can manually lock and unlock the door. 1) is there an easy point where I can disengage the actuator so the manual lock is not frozen? And 2) will the door then still open and close as it should when manually unlocked? Right now the door is locked shut.

Thanks bro!! It took me 5 hours to get it done!!

Awesome video, thank you for posting this. What do I do if the door actuator is stuck on lock and i am unable to open the slide door to reach the rest of the screws?

Thanks Works for my 2016 Dodge grand caravan