Had the same issue even after cleaning passenger side frame ground. I added a third ground cable between the battery and the support bar above. No issues for 6 months. Just make sure any new ground cable follows the other two through the ground sensor ring.

My 2015 started messing up on power steering randomly . The ground on left side was definitely dirty. Truck is running with no issues after cleaning and retighten . Thanks for this video. Helped out alot

Thanks for this video Hunter! It definitely helped. I cleaned off the chassis ground / frame and then added some dielectric grease before reinstalling. I also pulled apart the dash and was able to get to the ground G218. Someone in this thread mentioned removing the speaker for easier access and that helped a ton. I was able to fit a mini 10 mm wrench in there. I didn't have the foam issue that everyone was talking about (foam wasn't touching the ground or stuck in the ground) but I did notice it was loose. So I added some dielectric grease and tightened it down. I've spent the last week trying to recreate the electrical issues from before but so far your method has worked! I'll update in this thread if that changes.

Perfect fit on my "18 GMC Sierra 1500. I was having all the same issues. Removed and tightened the A-pillar ground and then I did the driver-side chassis ground, which I'm quite sure was the main grounding issue. It was corroded like yours and had lots of grime around it. Cleaned the battery ground contact, bolt, and chassis holes with a wire brush and haven't had any issues since. Thank you!

I had the problem of the radio changing stations on its own. It would go through everything that it was capable of doing. Then go into navigating. I looked at google and yahoo and got as many answers as there are leaves on a tree. The dealer put in a new screen. I thankfully bought the extended warranty. 2017 Silverado Ltz 12,000 miles on it . Last year when I got it. The screen came up on cures a couple of times. The service tech said that this happens a lot. Even on some of the Fords. Other than that I’ve had no other electric problems. I did replace the battery it was the original one. I think I’ll do what you did anyway. You made it look easy enough even I could do it. They suggested to keep the screen clean. There’s stuff for computer screens at Office Depot and Best Buy, but don’t use glass cleaner or anything with alcohol. Just wipe easy with a microfiber towel. Hope that he knows what he’s talking about.Seems like this has been a Gremlin in the system for a very long time. Surprised that there wasn’t a recall years ago.

Hunter.... my guy.... you saved me. I replaced my battery and alternator before I did this. A year of frustration is hopefully resolved!

If there is a ground issue, you can have multiple issues with any electrical on your vehicle. The power is looking for a ground so it could run through your radio it could be your brake lights it could be your traction control or anywhere else. Remember there is a ton of electrical on these things overtime the corrosion will win wire brush and dielectric grease does wonders.

My 15 started flickering and my power steering would shut off when making sharp turns. I did the dash ground point mod. Then I replaced the battery ground cable. Then I upgraded my battery. My 15 Rado has been running strong for over a year now with no electrical issues.

Can't wait to get rid of this 14 Sierra, great video btw I had the same issues along with 10 others, never again General Motors....never....

i have a 2014 gmc sierra, i have done all the grounds and it made things better, but for anyone still experiencing issues i have found that the factory negative cable can also be the problem even if it looks perfect. you may be able to add your own ground and run it through the loop sensor and fix any remaining issues or just get a new factory cable. i have even seen it where a guy cut off the negative clamp and replaced it with a copper lug and solved the issue when doing a voltage drop test. hope this helps anyone like me where these didnt fix it completely

The entire reason the trucks have bad ground under the dash is the bolt is screwed down on the insulation. If you don't completely remove the bolt and get it out from under it tearing it does nothing.

I just did that to my truck I hope it works also 10mm wrench works with the ground bolt under the dashboard

So I'm doing this right now. If you remove the speaker you can squeeze a wrench on it easy. I recommend getting a cheap 10mm ratcheting wrench from Harbour freight (princess auto) and you will have to put a slight bend at the end

Thanks to my wife she found you and this. Chevy service alert does not address this secondary ignition ground. Also, your truck looks like most underside. We do the beach and bunch of 4x4, so yup, i checked all other possibilities, but not the one by the speaker. Will update after i address. 2017 silverado z71 was at the dealership for 1 months and they fixed all other bs, but nothing to address this.

Just put that same intake on my 2014 lastnight lol.. sounds great with the muffler delete

Just an fyi and maybe it's been said but you don't have to disconnect the battery when dealing with grounds.

my 15' Silverado was shutting off randomly. At slow speeds or while accelerating at low rpm's. AC would also shut off, Radio would stay on. Initially, I cleaned the ground connections under the passenger AND driver side with a wire brush. (Very easy to do). The next day, the truck stalled again while pulling out of a parking lot. After further research, i followed instructions on (Bulletin No.: PIT5405C) google this bulletin, it references a lot of the issues people are mentioning in the comments!!!! After removing both tweeter speakers, i was able to remove a good chunk of rubber/deadening material. from the ground G218. the right side was in direct contact underneath the ground. Hopefully this fixes the issue, if not next step is to replace battery cables.

I’ve been experiencing these issues for the past year or so, I addressed the two grounds inside the dash panel for the ignition about 10 months back, and I thought my problems were solved until yesterday when the truck completely shut off on the interstate during rush hour, I’m lucky to be typing this comment out right now, but needless to say I’m about to go check that secondary ground on the underside of my truck now 😅

Someone may have already mentioned it but if you remove the two screws and connector on the speaker it slides right out. That gives access to get a wrench on the nut.

Is it possible this bad ground could cause the high beam on my 2014 Silverado to stay stuck on? Even after shutting the truck off they stay on, have to disconnect the battery to get them to shut off…

2014 Sierra here. All terrain edition 33’s on a 5” lift. After Dealer changed the engine (blew up on me after 6 months) I’ve had multiple issues since she returned to me. Recent weeks, subwoofers will cut out, loss of power to radio, “service stabilitrak” comes on then goes away momentarily. Will be checking grounds tomorrow.

2018 Chevy Silverado. Yeah same thing here for the past two weeks. Service Stabil Trak and Roll down window message. Mine still under a warranty but they (Dealership) are only covering the positive cable replacement. So going to try the cleaning ground contacts.

Would these grounds be the problem if the truck has no electrical power at all?

My truck started acting up today doing the exact same thing, left to work at 5am & headlights turned off & so did the dash followed by my steering wheel locking up on me as I was trying to switch lanes. It was very scary luckily there were no cars close to me & I was able to pull over turn it off & back on.

You saved me a trip to the dealership!! Thankyou!!!

Just remove the tweeter to gain access to the ground. There is one behind each passenger and driver tweeter in the dash. 7mm screws to remove.

Gonna have to give this method a try. I have been having the same issue that has gotten worse. Died while on the freeway. I noticed the dash was flickering and wanted to make the nearest exit and it died. I had enough momentum to make my exit and pull into a parking lot right off the exit. I just pop the hood and jiggle the ground a bit. It usually dies when I am going slow or making a slow turn. Sucks when it happens at a stop sign or light because I can't even turn my hazards on because there is no electricity. It baffles me that there has not been a recall on this as I have seen many others have the same issues. If there was a recall on this, feel free to make me look like a fool.

Hunter? So I scrolled and read many of the comments, I’m just curious did your radio display go black as well ? My situation is my lights began very slightly flickering then when I when to roll my window down the headlamps completely went out but only as long as I would hold the switch I was on the interstate so I’m not sure if the power steering actually cut out but when I arrived home when I tap my brake it would go out but not as I applied it to stop but only tap. Not sure if that makes much sense but I was wondering what all was actually happening I appreciate it time an thanks in advance

Issue just happened to me tonight. Gonna go try this out when I get home. Hope this does the trick. 🙏

Recently, my horn sensor started going off randomly saying that my hood was open, my subs started going out and coming back on, the steering wheel would briefly lock when turning at low speeds. That hood sensor goes off like crazy when I turn my radio up and that bass hit. This makes me think that I have a loose ground somewhere. I bought a ground cable from O'Reilly's, but prior to changing it, I'm gonna try to clean these ground points. I hope it works.

I've been having an issue with the headlights pulsing/flickering ever so slightly. The new battery did nothing to solve the issue, thought maybe it was an alternator issue but that seems to be charging just fine. No other issues other than just headlights, so I might have to check that frame ground for connection issues.

The issue that I am having, is that the dash lights if there are not them, they do flicker somewhat ever-so-slightly. The other day, my AC took about 10 minutes to start blowing cold air. Lastly, the other day my radio did not seem to have a display, although when I looked at it in the nighttime, I could see that it was lit up. I did verify that the fuse was okay on the radio circuit. I am hoping that these two ground issues will cause my issue to go away. Lastly, when the dash flickers, the AC seems to go in rhythm with the flicker.

My 14 cluster keep flickering when i press the brake pedal or while im driving . Is the ground under the dash the problem?

Hello by any chance did you have a (radio static) sound coming from your audio speakers before this was done to your truck??

Hey hunter I’ve been havin g a problem with my sound my radio , door chimes,or turn signals won’t make a sound it jumps on randomly until I turn my it off and also my lights flicker

Did stability track light or steering assist and ac dying down aswell when the issue was occurring ?

Just had my steering lock up last night for the first time while backing into garage (screens black, heavy shudder, engine nearly dying) I'm going to try this this weekend. I have been having intermittent screen changing both on radio and on the small screen in front of steering wheel for a long time, do you think that could be related? I know with electrical it's all related to some degree, but excited that this may be a fix. Very well done video on your editing and camera angles! Thank you

OK... So I had all the same general issues. But when I tried to do the "Clean-up" fix of the 2 ground lugs under the dash cover I just could not get at them. No way could I undo the connection and clean the area. Plus I do not really buy that the coating is the problem. ANYWAY... What I did and it COMPLETELY solved all the strange electrical issues and it has not stalled again is run a new "Ground-Bus". Even with the very limited access I was able to secure a crimp-on wire loop terminal on top on the existing ground stud with another nut. I used #8 AWG wire (10AGW likely OK) from the driver side over to the passenger side and then down via the lower passenger side interior kick cover to the main frame/chassis ground lug as shown in many videos. This new ground bus between the two under dash cover ground lugs and to the frame ground fixed all these strange electrical issues. Hope this is helpful info. It has now been almost a year and all is still working well.

i got same issue. my husband driving it on interstate and my 15 suburban power steering just stopped working and flickering. it was scary, not safe at all. is the ground wire u cleaning passenger side or driver side

Hello, 2014 silverado same issues but my problem was at the fuse box under the hood, found a lot of corrosion under it used wire brush and dielectric grease problem fixed, I did try the ground wire like you did but that didn’t solve it,Thanks

Do you know what the clip on the driver side is called. I broke mine putting back in and trying to find the clip to buy another one. And the ground tricked helped my flickering issues thanks man

My 2017 gmc sierra had the same problem it would flicker and turn off and on, i fixed the issue but ever since that happened the driver side window doesn’t go down or up anymore… what could it be?

Hey Hunter is been over a year since posting, how’s the truck running? Planning on doing this tomorrow if yours is still running well

Having issues with stabilibrak service. Cluster needles going wild & minor revving. Also “ reduced steering assist drive with care “ speed sensors were swapped out still having the issue do you think this may be the issue ? My thought was a faulty ground but no idea which. Hoping some one could be of help…

Same issue. I got a size 10 wrench to fit in the speaker hole and from there I loosened and tightened it back up. Removed that foam shit from around and underneath

I have a similar issue out of my 2014, to where you’ll go to slow down to turn & the whole truck will shut off. A/C, radio & all. Coast to a stop, put the truck in park & restart it & a message reads “roll passenger side window down.” Hoping this fixes my issue as I’ve done the ground wire behind the passenger side wheel & no luck.

Question for you: were you experiencing messages that said the park assist was not working? And then the truck shut off? I cleaned the bottom ground wire. But it happened again. Wondering if the ground wire by the windshield will fix the problem?

My truck is jerking the wheel out of my hand and I took off the 2g18 or what ever it's called and cleaned the one under the passenger side on the body and put grease on it but still no fix. Going to try to change the neagitive cable next 3rd times the charm right.

This happened to me a few time coming back from camping it said something about trailer brake system and it flickered off but the engine was still running and it turned back on in a sec. Any suggestions?

This started up on my 2018 Silverado, the exact symptoms, Stabilitrak flashing, truck shutting off then right back on. Did the G218 fix, new negative battery cable, cleaned the contacts on the frame and engine block. Still doing it. Mechanic is telling me need a new battery, which is less than a year old. Different mechanic said change out the positive wire to the starter. Online forum says power steering issue could also cause this... about to just trade the truck in...

Just the did the frame rail one on my 17 silverado. My ground was actually loose and covered in the frame wax. No idea how was even able to ground anything. Cleaned the frame to bare metal then tightened back down. No issues so far. My issue was stabilitrak and service trailer brake, and loss of power steering, and loss of power to guage cluster and radio all in one.

My cables melted where they run along the firewall near the exhaust manifold. Why did gm decide to run these grounds so close to the exhaust? It's an accident waiting to happen when someones truck just shuts off while driving without warning and you no longer have power steering or power brakes.

Anyone reverse dash ligh flicker and M not engaging I feel like it could be a electrical problem or transmission just giving up

Thank you. I have a 2015 Silverado LT double cab that has the same symptoms. I took it in and they told me it was the aftermarket stereo. I checked the ground on driver side dash and it appears to have been cut already. Bolt was secured well but i took it off and kind of sanded it best i could. After i put it back on i cranked it down. I then moved over to the passenger side and cut the garnet around it off. It was also tight. I also took the bolt off the passenger side wheel well and grinded it down a little to make it smooth. Is there a way to tell of this worked or is it "try and see" kind of thing. At this point i don't want to have my kids in there until i can verify 100% its safe. Thoughts?

Man mine started having these problems after I changed the starter could it be any cables down there if not I will still check all my grounds , how do you know if the negative to the battery is bad ?

So I've had the same issue as many on here - Usually starts with lights flickering, stabilitrack light coming on, and the steering getting hard, then the steering wheel jerks and all electrical power is lost. Usually this all happens during low speed turns such as pulling into a parking space. I fumble around for a few minutes, open the door, blah blah, and can usually restart in a few minutes. Anti-theft kicks in and tells me to lower and raise the driver side window. Frustrating as hell. After watching your video, I went after all the ground wires - The ones under the dash, the one at the block, the one behind the wheel, etc etc etc. Took them off, cleaned, scrubbed, you name it. I had hopes, and seemingly for a couple of weeks, it worked. Unfortunately, the issue came back. So now I'm thinking the common denominator is the cable itself. I could be wrong, but I'm nearing the end of my rope with this stupid issue. So, at some point in the near future, I will order a new cable, install it, and will report back after seeing if the issue returns after that.

Theres another grounding point at the engine mount area on the same side and what i do is wire wheel the area change the ground wires then instead of using spraypaint I use whats called Cold Galvanizing Compound that sprays on just like paint but protects from the elements way better..

I replaced the battery and alternator. Solved the issue . Truck has good voltage

Had to remove that speaker for mine. The one under the wheel well I had to weld on the 10mm was stripped

Unfortunately pulling insulation did not do anything to improve the grounding (dash). You have to get under the nut and clean contact to the body. Find out where that wire leads to and just run another body ground point wire.Thats a stupid place for GM to put a ground connection anyway.Check your pcm connections under the hood.

I'll give this a shot. All my truck is doing is showing the "service power steering, drive with care" message. No other issues, no loss of p/s. Has a C0800:11 code. Going to look into these grounds!

Thank you brother I will try this today I’ve been having the same issues for 7 months now.

When it cut off did you get a message telling you to roll your window up and down?

After fixing those 2 grounds as of now have you had it do the stuttering and shutting off again?

The factory negative battery terminal was defective on mine. I crimped on a new one.

the neg battery cable has an excessive voltage drop when using the power steering(major electric motor) replace the neg cable and call it done. no need for the dash tsb

2014 Sierra 1500 with 142k miles - symptoms were "Roll down, then up drivers window" message and one click up on drivers window did not work - had to hold button up to get window up, voltage reading just under 14 when should be just above 14, gentle dash lights flickering, left turn had temporary loss of power steering, blinker use causes cruise control to kick off, clock suddenly 47 minutes behind and yesterday the truck quit and went black while preparing to enter main roadway. I disconnected negative battery terminal for two minutes, reconnected fired up just fine. First I removed dash and cleared the rubber material from both ground posts G218 and G210 resistance codes - drivers side rubber was pinched under nut washer, just don't understand how assembler could do this at factory - the hole in the material means it goes AROUND the outside of the post, and they want a 40% raise in pay for a 32 hour work week. Started truck, still getting roll down then up window error message. Next removed, cleaned surface and ground wire end on passenger side inside wheel well, covered with heavy duty grease to prevent element deterioration. Opened hood and removed and cleaned ground post and end to firewall. Started truck, no more errors. So far so good. Prior errors included "Reduced engine speed" - code was wheel speed sensor - really GM, you're going to force me off the freeway because of a fricking wheel speed sensor issue? Update 10.17.23: Drove 600 miles today, no issues anymore.

Thanks

Any issues after you cleaned the grounds?

Hopefully works mine did it to me on the freeway middle of the night was sketchy asf!

Dude . This shit is so annoying thanks for the fix bro .

Fixing the dash ground did nothing for mine. Haven’t tried the other one. Whole truck randomly shuts off. Gotta get rid of this thing or it’s gonna get me killed

Has it cut out since?

Did you fix it mine is giving problem too

So what ground connection do you think it was? You did both at the same time. Having same issues with my 2017.

My 2017 GMC is doing this when parking or steering quickly at low speed, such as a u-turn. I will try this and see what happens. It is a nasty situation and am perplexed as to why GM did not protect these connections in a better way.

This secondary ground is not on the V6, at least I cant find it

So I’m taking that it worked for him ?

Hey brother ..... I just saw your video and wonder...is you really solve that issue....I have the same problem... Silverado 18....appreciate you reply thanks.... Have a good one!!!👍🙏

After doing this has anyone had the issue of their battery draining?

My truck won’t go back together. I’m scared

Almost died passing a car and switching into the oncoming lane and my truck completely shut off and came back on while going 50-60 mph. One of the scariest moments of my life

My truck has shut off a few times on me like you said but I haven't fixed the issue

Did that fix the problem? I just bought a 2015 high country and it did the same to me

Did this fixed the issues?

Has anyone had the steering wheel lock up while experiencing this issue while still moving?

Did it start?

And GM REFUSES to acknowledge that a substantial problem exists!

What’s the update so far

2017 sierra having the same ducking issues almost died several times

i think you got lucky, the ground bolted to the frame doesnt affect ignition components, you can unbolt it and the truck will still start up and run. And you technically didnt do anything with the ground under the speaker... good vid anyways !!

Cut off the factory battery terminal connectors and replace them with the old school battery terminal connectors, both positive and negative. Problem solved. Those new fangled battery connectors GM put on the 2007-2014 batteries work loose due to vibration.

I did this to my ‘14 Silverado and was running good for 6 months till it completely shut off on me again, also my headlights flicker when I hit the brakes, anybody know any solutions to this problem?

Flex head ratcheting wrench

Same happened to me when I come to a slow or stop and turn. Going to try this later. Last thing I want is this to happen in traffic

this problem is dangerous, i almost got t-boned driving my wifes truck. this is a serious issue

Update?

I’m having this issue on our 2015 Tahoe, I cleaned the Frame mounted ground and the one on fire wall driver side, not sure how the speaker ground would become a problem?

Never heard it T start

Mine was a weak battery