zebocrab Thanks, I felt the same way when this happened, so I did this vid. Maybe not the same for every ones issues, but this was my issue.

Glad to help. Expensive part 1200 $. Luckily mine was still under warranty

Same problem I’m dealing with - my inspection due it august so now I’m scrambling trying to figure this out , thanks for the video it was great help

@@richporter856 there is a few companies that rebuilds them. You ship it to them and they fix and ship back within a few days for around $200 bucks and lifetime warranty

I have the same issue for a 2014 Accord V6, the dealer wants $2400 RIPOFF $1200 for the part and the rest for the labor, which only takes at most 2 hours for someone who knows what they're doing which doesn't add up for labor even if $150/hr. do know the name or website of these companies, any experience with them? Thanks @@teenice894

@@teenice894 Much better option than the current price of ~$1800 for it new.

Did it work for you ??

Thanks Sir, I was brave enough to just buy another Honda Accord a few months ago. Even after I swore I'd never buy another one. This one in the video was a great car with a great motor. Only 62k when I traded it in. I never had another problem after this video was made

@@1minibean i have a 2014 Honda Accord LX having this problem is this part number the same as mine or is it something unique

@@Jetstreamhustla Dealer has the part numbers, not sure if they are comparable.

Did your brake pedal go to the floor?

TheGirbo1 These electronic sensors are nightmares.Before abs, and sensor technology, nothing ever went wrong electrically.

Hi. Once you drove around the block did the problem came back?

Agreed. Those lights and electrical blunders ruined my Honda love.

mine is over $2K. i tried emailing Honda Corporate and they said they havent really heard about this issue which is a big fat lie. I tried tweeting them and they're response is that it's out of warranty. I feel like this is a huge issue for a lot of Honda owner and there should be a recall or a class action.

@@macrossjem did you get it fixed? I have same problem.

@@bzq3386 no. i'm going to file a complaint with the BBB since it seems like this is an issue for a lot of honda accord 2013-2018 drivers.

@@macrossjem yea. I took mine to the dealer and their computer spits out code 123-11 which is solenoid valve malfunction. They suggest to replace the ABS/VSA Modulator and quote around $2000. I don't know what to do now.

Andrew R Yes, these sensors are a true setback and very costly if not under warranty still.

Did that get rid of all the lights?

michael jasso Thank You this worked!

Same problem at 09:00PM after car wash, need to leave next morning, test drive find, drove 1000 miles next day no problem. Car turn on, same trouble lights came on, then all off , after 1/2 hrs drive came back on. It repeats for entire trip. Will fix when the car back home in 3 months.

I have push button any other way that will fix?

@@mfamily3301 did you make it home ok

@@mylastchannelgotdeleted6213 We drive with that problem for 6 months finally get it fixed

My car did the same, yet nothing ever happened that left me stranded. Luckily It was under warranty. I just drove it for days until the part came in.

I deleted part one as it just showed my dash lights on. My experience was that nothing effected my car’s performance when the lights went on, just wanted it fixed. I’ve learned that some owners disconnected the battery overnight and they all went off. Mine was under warranty so I just had it fixed. There were days the lights were on and I just ignored them. I didn’t have any trouble, just irritated me to see them on like that.

I have a 2008 accord and all of those lights (abs,vsa,brake, etc) have been on since the day I purchased the vehicle used. I've noticed that the only thing that makes them turn off is cold weather so I'm thinking there might be a workaround fix for the solenoid but it might not be worth the trouble.

Daniel Melendez They told me at the dealer it had to be on at the moment in order to warranty any thing, but I do believe if if came on and went off, the scanner can read a past code if something happened. I just don't know about all these Honda lights and what triggers a code and what doesnt.

A scanner won’t pick up any codes, even though all the dash lights are on. I’m so grateful for this video because I’ve been trying to resolve this Issue on my 2013 Honda Accord Sport for months now!!!!

Just took my 14’ sport to the dealership with the same issue. The codes actually are picked up if scanned by a technician. Dealer is charging over 1700 for parts and labor. *ouch*

@@BakingwithFabian yeah, cheaper to buy OBD reader and diagnose on my own. Besides i never goto dealer one car is out of warranty.

Did you have a pulsating brake pedal?

Good info. Thanks man. Yea this was the last thing I ever expected to see on a Honda. My starter died and was warrantied out at 33,000 miles too, that happened just before the ABS module acted up.

I have the same problem and considering getting the unit repaired vs a new unit from Honda is $1200 plus install total $2400. How did the repair from G7 turn out? recommend it?

Appreciate the feedback, good info.

So I’m having these same problems and they started happening the same time I realized my batteries negative cable was loose, so I tightened it didn’t seem to help much, so I just replaced the battery, my question is, how could the problem be the battery having low voltage not be solved by correcting the voltage amount via properly tightening it?

@@dietzcoludum4508 Was the problem caused by the battery after you replaced it? Because, you should have tested voltage and amperage prior of replacement. Also, there is something called "hard restart" on hondas/acuras. This means disconnecting both battery cables starting with negative first. Then, with both battery cables disconnected, touch them together for about 20 seconds, put back positive cable to positive battery terminal, then do the same with negative, making sure both are clean and tight. This will reset all ECU settings. You must drive vehicle for a few miles at different speeds to allow computer to adapt to new settings..

What if you have these same indicators come on intermittently when the car is just sitting idle for 5-10min? But every time you cut the car off and back on, the indicators go off. What could that be? Does something need to be reset? It started after I got my tires rotated.

@@WhoGotThaJUICEtv I have similar problem.. I got a flat on the right rear and also the tpms sensor was broken. When you put in the spare tire on the VSA and ABS light will come on. The reason its because they are related to one another as the speed sensor which as the spare has detected that their is another size tire.. Sending a signal to the ABS and VSA modules. Also, the tire pressure light will come on and will occasionally flash as the ECU knows it cannot detect the tpms sensor. These are the procedures to follow BEFORE you spend a fortune buying an ABS module: 1- Inspect battery condition. Make sure it shows correct CCA (Cold Cranking Amps).. Make sure there is no corrosion present on cables. If there is, clean them with a metal brush...however, by disconnecting the battery cables you may lose settings for the clock and radio code. Check in your glove box for that radio code or by the center console or your honda dealer just give them your VIN number and show evidence that is your car. Some places will test your battery for free: auto zone or advance auto. Before testing, make sure battery is clean to get an accurate reading...if battery is still bad..THAT WAS THE REASON OF YOUR WARNING LIGHTS.. If battery is good, perform a "hard restart" by disconnecting both battery cables and touching them together making sure NOT TO TOUCH battery posts... do it for 20 seconds, then reconnect battery cables, negative side last. If that does not work, go to the next step.. 2- Open up the lid for the fuse box and look for the fusible link which controls the ABS, VSA and Power Steering modules.. It is a long fuse with 100 amps.. Disconnect the negative battery cable BEFORE pulling out the fuse. Use a philips screw driver, a good one to avoid stripping the head screws. There are two holding the fusible link. On the sides push, very gently both clips then pull out the fuse.. Take the fuse and check the inside if any of the filament links are broken or separated. If they are, THAT WAS THE REASON FOR YOUR WARNING LIGHTS. Replace it, but before disconnect negative side of battery to avoid severe damage to circuits and modules... If this doesn't work, go to the next step... 3- Have your car inspected on a lift for broken or severed speed sensors on all wheels. Any copper wire from those sensors sticking out and touching metal making ground and causing a short in the electrical system.. Or simply disconnected.. If any are damaged, replaced with ONLY an OEM.. If you have a scanner, decent enough to clear trouble codes, then delete them once the problem has been correctly fixed.. Hope this helps, but if you do this, it is your responsibility if you cause any further damage to your car as it was done incorrectly. If you feel you are not capable, might as well pay a good mechanic.

Thats crazy. Honda is not the "Honda" it once was.

Is it really discontinued? I have same issue, took my car to the dealership and they quote me $1902 for the VSA modulator replacement.

@@bzq3386 these modulators are on National backorder per the dealers. if you agree to have dealer do it, they will probably take the pmt and then you will have to wait. I've been trying to get the part for over a year. i have same problem with almost all lights on. runs fine but i want to get it fixed! mine is 2014 Accord Touring, which is rare. for other models, you might get it online used as many have

Looks like they never will resolve this issue. Honda is not what it used to be.

No reprogramming- new module

It’s hard to believe these Honda’s have these issues. It seems like that module controls lots of things. Once I replaced mine, I never had a trouble code after that. It’s expensive to fix.

@@1minibean , thanks my friend for your feed back

If they can fix it for 130 do it. My fix was 1200. Luckily it was covered under warranty.

Kazi Hassan The power steer is electric I think. Sounds like a problem.

@@1minibeanyes it’s electric 100%

Brandon Johson no, but familiar with the area of problems. these abs and ecu codes in these new Hondas are really turning me away from my long time favorite brand. Once abs because standard, and all the sesor electric bullshit, These things are absolute nightmares. I do hope that at least your still under warranty. I wonder if Toyota are any better electronic wise.

1minibean, yes I'm under warranty until 72,000 I bought a extended warranty because I was iffy about buying a newer car. I heard Toyota has a recall on the 2018 camry now. I think it's just the v6 models. So tbh I don't know if their any better. I'm about to take my car to the dealer I got it from, about some excessive wind noise coming from my passenger side. I've talked to a few people with the same car I have. None of them have had any problems. One has the 16 sport and the other 2 have the 17. I don't notice anything while driving. It's just the wind noise and the codes I had go off. Just to note, the codes went off according to my scanner about 22,000 miles ago and I'm at about 27 now. I'm kind of glad I invested into this odb scan tool. Because if I didn't, I probably would of never found out about these codes, until after the warranty runs out. Honestly, sometimes these newer vehicles makes me wanna just buy a old ford, Toyota or honda before 96 and just keep fixing it until I can't fix it any more.

@@1minibean My 2017 Honda Accord Touring started with this same issue today. This is the first Honda I own (previous Toyota owner). I WILL NOT be purchasing another Honda. Too many minor issues already.

Nicole Soudelier I agree completely. To many electrical failures. Honda is not the great Japan made import it was years ago.

I had the same issue today. My car is at about 45K. Hopefully the extended warranty I purchased covers this since the Honda default warranty only covers until 36K. I went in for an oil change this morning and told them about my TPMS sensor going off. Had them recalibrate everything and they said to let them know if anything changes. I had drove the car about 50 miles after the service and the TPMS, power steering, traction control, and ABS light all went off. I have another appointment tomorrow and I'll update you on what I find.

The part number is on the blue paper in the video

In the junk yard possibly.

Yeah I need the same for my 2014 Honda Accord

Hi, you’re situation sounds very different from my issue. You probably want to get that power steering issue checked out right away, because it sounds like a fixable issue to diagnose. I would have a good Honda mechanic check out all power steering components and also have him scan for a trouble code. Hope this helps.

No, Not at all. The lights coming on never affected the car in any way. Thats the strange part of all this.

I’m in New York. 3 year/36,000 warranty. The dealer said the part costs like $1200. The labor was like 2 hours. Hope this helps. Mine was just inside warranty. No cost. - So No, it doesn’t add up. Does it ever ?

Went to the same Honda dealer and got my Tundra inspected the other day, and working perfect turning right into the dealer. They wouldn’t pass me because “my right blinker was out. 30:dollars for a 3 dollar orange blinker bulb. They reduced it to 20, and 3 days ago, the same blinker failed, so I unplugged the socket and the orange bulb fell out onto the base some where. It wasn’t snapped in all the way. What a bunch of bums. There was nothing wrong with the original one. Period.

Thanks for writing back, which dealer in New York, I am in bordering CT. Would like to compare dealer prices. Wondering what your dealer would charge for parts + labor, If it only took them 1-2 to install I would hope its less than $1200 what my local dealer whats for 1-2 hr of labor. @@1minibean

@@pall5114 Saratoga Honda

Same did u get a solution

3500. That’s crazy. Truth is just drive it as is, it didn’t effect my car running and driving in anyway. You’re right, that’s a good down payment.

My guy sorry to learn about that. I am just wondering, did you take it to "Hendrick Honda???"

No, but a few thousand miles before this moduele failed, my starter died and the dealer replaced that under warranty too.

@@1minibean Thanks, My first Honda was a 1989 Acura Legend Coupe and I have had tons of Honda’s since then. I think this will be my last one. They don’t make them the way they used to.

@@teslamr7333 I agree my first was an 89 Accord. And many after that. Nkw a days, they have electrical/sensor issues beyond belief. Time to turn the page.

Jeffrey Grullon Excellent, the dealer is crazy !

Jeffrey, Did you do the install your self? I have to replace my ABS module, a local mechanic quoted me $400 with installation and programming the part. I am considering installing the part my self and just have the mechanic reprogram my part after I install it myself. My question is: Did you do an auto bleed on your breaks or a manual bleed? This is a concern of mine because If if were to install it, I do not have the computer to perform a auto bleed.

Hi Jeff, where did you find the part?

eBay used

@@rmknh also check www.car-part.com Excellent site they test their parts b4 they sell them. My mechanic told me about them. Also i bought my abs module from ebay, a company called morrisons used auto parts in wisconsin, $85 with free shippin, the abs module was the same make model year as my car, honda accord lx 4 cylinder that had 30k miles on it, totalled out bc of a rear end accident

They have to be cleared through a scanner tool hooked into the diagnostics port under the dash. I don’t think unhooking the battery will clear them.

yes

I didn't get that lucky with mine.

Hopefully that work for me. Did you have the car running or it was just on the on position?!

Trevor Jenkins I drove mine for 2 days without any issues, then I had it fixed. Not sure about yours though.

I read the manual, it said it still can drivable no problems, then find time to fix it ASAP

I am still driving mine with all these lightsn6 months and counting

@@APortaA1 did you fix it?

I’m not surprised. It’s all BS. The electronic crap needs to go.

What ended up being the problem? I have a 14 Civic with 55k miles and it's doing the same thing but it's also misfiring.

Crudup Crew Unfortunately the dealer did it because it was still under warranty. I don’t know what they do with it

@@1minibean I replaced the ABS module today on my 2013 accord. I got a used one... no reprogramming was needed, its plug and play

Get a used one.. dont waste $1,000 on a new one. I installed a used one on my 2013 accord ex. Everything worked out fine, no hiccups.

Johnson T I got a used one, installed it and the light still is on. I’m back to the drawing board with frustration now

@@KeithCrudup84 you'll have to check the code again and see what comes up. Second the module has to match the same year, same model.... you cant mismatch modules.. You have to make sure you get the specific module for your car... The module will be different for a 2 door, 4 door, automatic, manual, EX, LX, Sport model

I have the same code on my 2012 Honda Accord. My lights will come on after driving a short while. But turn off when you turn the engine off and back on. Eventually will go back on while driving. But again, go off after turning the engine off and back on.

@@ahotdj07 literally the exact issue is happening to me. Did you find the problem? Also when this happened to you did the car drive perfectly fine. Mine drives fine but these lights keep coming on and off

Did you find the issue. I am having the exact issue you stated in my 2012 Honda Civic.

@@mylastchannelgotdeleted6213 Yes, it was the VSA ABS Control Modulator assembly that was defective. Honda is having issues trying to find one locally, but was able to get one online rebuilt at CarPartSource. I ordered it and should get it within two weeks. Honda agreed to install for me and will bleed the air out of brakes. Service advisor said this should solve my issue. We shall see. For me, it just happened out of the blue one day. Car still drives fine for me, just those lights come on and off a lot.

@@mylastchannelgotdeleted6213 See below. I have a 2012 Honda Accord!

Agreed. And still is an issue.

Kanan Ahammed see part 2 of this for the fix

It's a 20 minutes repair... I installed a used ABS unit on my 2013 accord...its very easy

Johnson T would it be the same for a 2018 accord? Snow chains ripped mine off this weekend

Daniel Cardenas It was just a hair under 36,000 miles, so they covered it under warranty.

@@1minibean mines at 158k

Unplug the modulator and clean the plug/terminals and use air to blow out and plug it back it. Hopefully this helps and you won't have to buy a new one.

1minibean how long does it take to unplug?

JC FLEX The entire job took less than 1 hour

It works

Did you figure out ? Mine also the same like yours

ABS MODULE -

What do you mean "reset from the setting"? Could you clearly elaborate?

How did you reset it? And are you talking about resetting the ABS module?

I deleted it because it just showed the lights on the dashboard all on at the same time. Nothing informative really. The bottom line of this problem is what you just watched. Hopefully your Honda isn’t doing the same. !

@@1minibean oh it is 😢

@@gingerknott9642 OH No ! Sorry to hear. I drove mine that way for a while before I got it fixed.

@@1minibean I’m guessing it won’t pass inspection

@@gingerknott9642 disconnect the battery for a few hours……Some people have had good luck with that, (also disconnect the modulator itself shown in the video (the black harness under the block of aluminum) and re installing it. It just might get those dash lights off.

بشر عساك حصلت حل

@@mok8515 مافي حل سوينا بلاغات على الشركة حنا ومجموعة شباب ولا فيه فايدة

@@user-gs5vb4zc6b طيب عدلتها ولا

I had that issue just before I had this one. They warranties the starter AND the battery at like 29,000.

So after you swapped the battery and starter the car was running right and then this happened?

@@sabinovazquez2235 Yes, soon after that this happened. After the 3 things, the car was good. I got rid of it at 68k.

Get a new battery, and disconnect it for a day. Also, unplug the module you see in my video and clean off the terminals and see what happens.

Definitely not what they used to be.