agreed, dude had way way too much trust in that compressor kit. face right over it and at one point set his balls right on top of the compressed strut.

Came to the same conclusion

BigNClemson00 wanted to know if it was as easy as he made it seem?planing on doing it myself this weekend

@@jeovanymesa4316 hell no lol you have to compress the spring almost to full compression. I ended up getting one apart and had to take it to someone with a three point mounted hydraulic compressor to get it back together and get the other side done. If I could go back, I'd %100 just go with the level, the extra 1/2" lift from the preload spacer was not worth the headache. Hats off to this guy, he made it look soooo easy.

BigNClemson00 awesome so do you think if you weren’t to put on the preload spring space it would have made a difference

BigNClemson00 & also don’t you still have to compress it to rotate it 180 degrees

Ah, now that you mention it, you would have to rotate it and spring would have to be compressed for that... it would depend on the top spacer was made, I know the lift must be rotated but if the level spacer is bolt over bolt instead of mirrored, it wouldn't have to be.. you can look at the instructions for the level kit and see if they mention rotating. If you have to compress either way, just be ready for a head ache

Ever figure this out?

I believe it would. We experienced the rake as well. No axle chatter though.

Best way to measure is on level surface from the ground to fender. We noticed his appeared to sit slightly higher in the front. (Probably due to the stabilizers placed on the springs in the front.)

From the factory the rear sits about 1 inch higher than the front, so if you add the 2.5 inches to the front and the 1/2 inch to the back then the front ends up being 1 inch higher than the rear. That’s just how the kit is supposed to be, the installer did nothing wrong. Personally I think it looks better but maybe that’s just me

Igreja UNITED no it doesn’t. They’re locked in place with a spring clip, you just have to tug on it to get it out.

It came with rear spacers as well. Unfortunately though, we weren’t able to get footage of the rear instal due to problems of rust and such. It took awhile to install because of the rust so we weren’t recording anymore so we could get it done. The rear is pretty straight forward and not bad if you don’t have rust.

Im pushing 295 75 17 no problem I’m ready to try 35s might have to trim

@@iechiefcherokee3807 is that with no trimming?

I loosened both sway bar mounts to release it a bit from the bushings so it would rotate.

I couldn’t say. Since I only did it the way the manual instructed, I’m unsure of the outcome if it were to be done otherwise.

If you don’t install the rear spacers the front will end up being 1.5 inches higher than the rear

Larkin Posey did you make sure to mark your strut and everything and rotate 180°?

@@jacobgillespie6921 I did.

@@jacobgillespie6921 somehow the spring is agianst the frame allowing me not to be able to push the lower shock back to line up with the lower control arm holes. Its probably a inch from holes lining up. I dont know what to do?

Larkin Posey make sure you’re installing the lower strut fork in the same orientation as it came off of the vehicle, and that it’s not actually mounted 180° out. The rotation is so the fork can mount to the LCA as it did before, but the top hat is spun 180° in order for the lift to mount properly. We used a jack under the LCA and just worked with it in order to line up the bolt hole.

@@jacobgillespie6921 ok Do you recon I bolt the lower control arm on first then use the jack to jack up the LCA WITH SHOCK to line and go into the top bolt holes. Would that work

I’m sure you could just leave the spacer out, I’m unsure of the overall out come though. I know a leveling kit is just a top mount spacer.

@@jacobgillespie6921 great! My concern is if the ride gets harder with this preload spacer loosing comfort... or if it's not too noticeably? By the way, awesome video!

I personally didn’t notice an increase of stiffness really, but I only drove it around a bit for a test drive to make sure all was good before letting it leave the garage.

@@jacobgillespie6921 sorry for asking so much, what should be the function of this preload spacer? and thank you for so much help.

@@MoonlightPUB if I am not mistaken, the spacers apply a more load to the spring, therefore reducing the amount the spring compresses when there’s weight on it, so in theory, it also applies “lift”, it just won’t settle as much as if the spacers weren’t there. I did notice once he put wheels and tires on the Jeep, there was more lift in the front than the rear. I’m assuming that is due to the preload spacer.

I believe when you get into anything bugger than a 2.5 then you start running into drive line angles. Then itll be like a independent front end truck, youll need a trans axle drop, cv axle spacers, drive shaft modifications.

The air suspension is rated to 4 inches I know I can make it work at least 3.5 inches with out modifying the clearance

Wanea Geno LOL good thing I’m not a mechanic nor looking for a job. It’s a “hobby”, not a career. Simply doing a lift on a friend’s Jeep. I appreciate your input though, take care!

@@jacobgillespie6921 I was thinking the same thing..... but I didnt care nor would I comment, its your choice to do it the way you want lol