YES!!!!!

I just had to replace the battery in one of these, It ain't fun. You have to remove the air filter assembly

just replaced my battery , who the fuck designed that? three fucking hours to change a battery! Not difficult but it's a pain in the ass when every other car on earth takes 10 minutes.

@@armadilllo : Oh the joys they must have at pissing us off.

And the guy who decided to put the alternator at the bottom of the engine needs to be next

Does ford edge have the same problem? My edge 2016 needs a jump but battery is charged

Need help.

@@lilchucky6875 it’s very likely the same issue. Watch your gauges for about 15 minutes after closing the doors and locking them. Leave the key out of the ignition, see if it does it.

I have the same issue, 2016 Ford Escape. Replaced the cluster and it still had to be jump started today

@@briewilson9695 curious, when you replaced the cluster, was it a new cluster from Ford or rebuilt? I have the drain problem too.

I have had a 2016 Ford Escape SE for 1year and 3 months .(Purchased it used with 22346 miles ).I was thinking vehicle is 5 years old with now 47,893 miles on it.Batteries normaly last 5 years tops.I have had to jump start vehicle 9 times since I purchased it.I went and bought a Interstate battery today and installed it myself.Its not your average installation. Anyhow, I was due for a new replacement ,but I do not know why the vehicle is draining the battery.Any idea's would be appreciated.

Can anyone say they tried this, working on a 2013 Titanium now 2.0 Ecoboost

Which fuse did you need to pull?

No answer? Ditto on "Which fuse did you pull?"

Do you have a part number?

It's Mysterious .Enquiring minds like mine would like to know.

Why post a video that doesn't provide any answers

@@feelybadrupprick3784 The answer is in the video description. Replace the IPC.

i think you have to replace the ipc

FORD=Found On Road Dead.....dealing with this problem right now as is a co worker on a newer model. seems to be a recurring issue. good luck as i am still hunting mine down. i will re post if i figure anything out.

Sam here working on a 2013 with this drain.

@@cgonedfishing how do you stop it

@@zachdaniel3419 my situation may be different than this. Currently testing my last attempt which was to take my battery to auto parts store, have them charge and check it with their tester. Once they confirm good, I checked all my terminals for corrosion, cleaned where needed, installed battery and performed the battery monitor reset as FordBoss describes in his videos.

@@cgonedfishing I have a 2013 with the Same, find anything?

I'm going through the same thing with my 2017 Escape. 3 times they've had it and they can't figure it out. I'm so frustrated.

I'm also having the same problem, also 2017 Escape! Please reply if they end up figuring it out. I'll lose my mind if this "fluttering gauge" problem is actually the issue! But also be relieved because having to call AAA every Monday when my car dies over the weekend is getting old tbh.

Having the same problem and our service department thinks we're crazy and suggested to charge the battery every single night. Thinking about getting a lawyer

Can you tell me what you did to resolve the issue?

Update: for my issue, changing negative battery terminal cable fixed my issue. Prior, I charged the battery, still wouldn't start. I replaced battery, didn't start. I reset the BMS and it still wouldn't start. The negative battery terminal had lots of that funky sandy buildup on it. Tried cleaning but that rectangular sensors on that cable seemed a bit too corroded and was reason enough for me to replace that negative cable ($80 at Ford dealer). BTW, my positive terminal was spotless. And that got my 2015 Escape started!

I hear the SAME noise in mine you have to be pretty close.

Did you figure out the problem? And solution? We have been stranded twice now in days. Need help here.

Our 13 Escape also got the same problem Saturday! Battery tested 2 month ago and nod suddenly died. Let me know if it turns out to be this problem. I will also test this today!

Tomas Mandorf did u guys ever figure this out just happened to my wife 2013

cleverfisherman we changed batteries and the problem went away:/ guess it was a bad battery in my case

Ours too!

Well I have it. In the charger now if not new battery it is to start

Yes, the IPC was replaced and it did fix the problem. If yours has the same problem I would check for this concern.

@@DanielJaegerFilms I got an update of what is going on with my escape: Basically Patristic test show after the car relaxes that I have 255mA, Now pay attention, if I wait it will stay 255mA but if I pulled the negative lead from the DMM and put it back in it will go up to 2.5A then it relaxes down to 255mA then in 2 seconds it goes down to 8.99mA !!! so if leave it like that it will stick at 8.99mA if I pulled the negative again it will go up then back to stay 8.99mA that is good. Then if I opened the door and have the ignition on and then turn off remove the key and close the door it will go up then the amp on DMM shows after it relaxes to again 255mA or 265mA and stays like that until I pull one of the DMM leads and put it back that is when it go up to 2.5A then goes down slowly until 8.99mA. Its weird.

Hi John, could you please let me know if you were able to fix the issue, I do have the same problem and don't even know where to start.

The rear wiper motor/module is malfunctioning. Pull the rear wiper motor fuse and see if it helps.

@@nickyspunable Others are saying this does nothing.

I bought my 2016 Ford Escape in August of 2015. The 2016 models came out July, August of 2015.

Yeah they get them out ahead of time ... earlier and earlier kind of like Christmas candy ...

🤣

I did! And my frame rusted in half 😂

My man

me too

For any vehicle a power draw more than 0.25 mah is considered excessive. So 2.27 amps is very high.

@@dieselfixr 2.27 Amperes?

@@TheOzthewiz yes amps

Put car on blocks, put in drive, take off blocks when you get to the right mileage

Same issue if you find anything lmk and I’ll do the same

Same here on my 2013 escape se

@@vosburght based on the ongoing issue that no one seem to know, one mechanic mentioned that the back motor wiper needed to be replaced even if it was unplugged. To his knowledge the two wiper motors from the back and front are synced with eachother or something. So if one of them is out or burned, the other takes the load and can drain. The battery was showing higher amps being sucked when it was shut off. Once the new motor went on it stopped. Now that's what happened to me and I also unplugged my dash cam that was installed. For now no battery drain. Next year or sooner we shall see though. If it does it again then they where just speculations on their part and don't know what they are doing. Just guess working. Changed 7 mecchanics so far. Either my escape is a lemon or they just don't know what they are doing. Hope this helps. They couldn't give me an answer on the engine light on and off either. But that went away on its own. Still a mystery. Hope this helps a bit. I know it's frustrating expecially when you have the so called professionals doing the work. Fuses where all good too.

@@tclll2984 I replied to Todd V in the same reply. What was changed.

@@peppi7777 you are the man!

Yes, replacing the cluster fixed the problem!

You likely have an issue with the high current battery junction box located in front of the battery. You have to remove the air box to access it. Then you can see a series of mega fuses side by side. It’s common for these to go bad and visually you cannot tell. You have to test each fuse. Turn the ignition on but don’t start the car. Then using a multimeter connect the black probe to ground and using the red probe measure the voltage individually at the top of each fuse. You should see 12V for each. Then measure the bottom voltage and you should also see 12V. If you see a lower number you know the fuse is the problem. It’s very common for the far right 50A mega fuse to go bad causing no-start issues and it controls the body control module which controls a number of things and communicates with other modules and the PCM. Ford has even redesigned the fuse so they are aware of the issue. These sorts of problems should be recalled. You pay premium prices for junk and shoddy engineering these days. The location of the battery on this vehicle is a prime example.

How did you fix the problem? I am having the same issue

@@michaelfreire1382 Same here.. can't find any answers on what people actually did to solve it.

They made the carp computer everything, control modules for everything, CAN networked ... just to make spares insane expensive an far less reliable.

David Y every damn vehicle will have problems if they continue to stick computers in the vehicle

I was thinking the same thing, especially by visit two.

I have the same car and the same problem. If you get it figured out I would love to know. I have an appointment next week. Also, have you ever had wiper problems? I am getting the motor on one side in the front replaced.

@@lisamanv did you ever figure it out?

2017 titanium here with the same problem. I think I replaced the battery last September for no reason. Happened a month ago and then today.

Mine too. Looked this video up because of it.

@@applesofgold2622 i changed the battery, everything seems to be fine now. Apparently batteries only last 3 years now. My parents have the 2013 escape, its been close to 7 years and no battery problems at all!

I had a 14 before this and no issues. This 17 has been inreresting to say the least.

Same thing with our 2017 escape. Pain in the butt to get the battery out. Going to get it tested soon.

a bunch of retards over at FORD (fix or repair daily) dont know how to make a good car

I did that as well and it still did it again. This is my 3rd battery . And my engine light was flashing on and off very fast . I woke up this morning and found battery drained and clicking sound in the speedometer area.

Which fuse is that? Might as well try ..

Edith really? So you think this one or two examples is reason to not purchase a vehicle? So you'd better not buy ANY vehicle because no matter what you choose, if you search on KZfaq, you'll find problems.

Yeah too many issues. Stay away lol. I have had a used 2011 Scion tc longer than we had this 2016 Ford. Brakes and tires on tc in that time once each. The Ford has had so many issues and now this issue ..

+Joseph Scholl Read the description.

+TehHijack He doesn't explain a fix in the description.

Eric Bennett malfunctioning Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC) was "awakening" itself and fluttering the gauges, causing other modules in the vehicle to "awaken" as well. This created an excessive drain on the battery, which eventually ran it completely dead. This video is not bout explaining how to fix the problem, he is simply documenting all of the weird damage his vehicles have.

Trololololo

DIODE

cause Honda never has any problems right? lol... You dink.

+#Getonmylevel Cooking The Japanese brands are way more reliable than American cars.

Honda and Toyota aren't any better.

UnitedRecording Well the reliability ratings prove otherwise. Japanese Marques are always quite high in reliability unlike the American and German Equivalents.

No, I won't buy a Honda. I won't be a self centered douche like you that has to go around cramming "buy a honda" comments down people throats.

I thought the same, but now know it's not related to mine, since it's happened twice now. I'm thinking weather change since the temp dropped.

yep

I have a 2014 Ford Escape Titanium 1.6L And just the other day I had that issue wouldn’t go into any gear and I suspected the shift linkage either broke or the bushing poped out and I check and sure enough my shift linkage bushing was gone so I ordered a new one just waiting on it to arrive. Luckily the shift linkage is right under the air filter box next to the transmission dip stick so it was easy to get to a little tight but doable.

@@danielmarks3882 mine ended up being the bushing popping off due to a crack. I replaced it and haven’t had any issues with gear shift. Good luck with yours. Mine is running like a champ!

hahahaha

That'll fix the symptom, but not the problem.

I just searched the Ford recall site and it did not find a recall even though my 2016 Ford Escape has this exact problem. Would you be willing to share the site where you found the recall? Much appreciated, thanks!

@@cdcollister My 2017 Escape has this exact problem and my dealership hasn't figured this out.

Needs solid Codes/program Matchup system.

Or better yet, get a clamo-on DC amp meter. They are as cheap as 39 bucks on amazon and you won't have to break any connections to measure current..

Same

Nope, those only drink oil like a sailor on shore leave, and the parent company says that's "normal".

PocketAces return it and buy a Chevy Traverse

replace the fucked up cluster

You buy a Toyota or a KIA.

Throw that away and but a Peugeot 407 or 508

+Ivan Lesca No, get a Dacia Logan instead.

Not really minor when the car won't work because of it. And it's always the worst shit coming from the big 3 here because they still haven't learned their lesson.

Just saying i would call it minor in the sense that it does not endanger others because of the glitch unlike GMs airbag one. It does inconvenience them requiring a jump start and i agree reflects poorly on that part of the vehicle having the issues and the QC of Ford for letting it slip by. I feel the big 3 catch a lot of flak unfairly because they can be more popular and therefore issues more commonly known then imports in some areas and with all the extra crap in cars nowadays it will only get worse on power draw issues.

Jerry All brands are built to fail after a few years... that way you have to buy a new one

not 2003 toyota

Gryazev-Shipunov My GM vehicle has 320,000 miles. Moral of the story, my Hondas and Toyotas never made it that long. Stick with GM.

UnitedRecording GM truck with huge engine? Bigger engine lasts longer usually

epriiih Nope, just a regular car.