I got the same problem did you just change the radiator I'm thinking of changing the upper and lower hoses to save my self headaches in the future

@arosmytu2157 yep, when I took to the shop they said it was leaking from the radiator and needed replaced. I was hoping it was the coolant tank only but unfortunately not. Paid $1400 for new radiator, that's including parts and labor. All good now, except now my a/c isn't blowing as cold as it did before smh.

me too

How much cost you the radiator and where did you buy it ?

Same question… please where did you order parts

I always order from both autohausaz.com and rmeuropean.com, but both had radiator out of stock so I purchased from local BMW Dealership. Price was about $760.

@@thatonebmwguy9925 i was wondering if i get fully aluminum after mark one so the plastic doesn't crack up anymore ,how ever they advised me to use the original one. My friend has a body shop he ordered it for me . Shop price 575$.

Just got one myself 2 weeks ago

I also cound not find the part, several sites were all sold out. Had to purchase from local BMW Dealership, price was about $760.

The coolant hose from upper radiator to the coolant outlet pipe on engine block, was replaced about 2 months before the radiator started leaking. It was first the coolant outlet pipe on block was leaking. Then upper radiator hose leaking. Then high temperature (big) coolant expansion tank leaking. And last repair was the radiator leaking. Most coolant components are made of the same plastic type material and by 70-100k miles its normal for coolant parts to begin to leak and need replacement. All these cars on the road need to get fixed, thank you for your service as a Technician. Any BMW, any questions, please comment. On any video. Have 15+ years, BMW and ASE master.

I think my radiator hose is leaking because I can see blue and white corrosion on the tube leading to it and it smells like it’s burning

How much does it cost to replace the radiator?

@@CarlJohnson-kz5zpmy warranty covered the top hoses that were leaking no need to replace my radiator.

@@trishonya so is the radiator the called the secondary radiator? What is the secondary radiator that I need to replace for my A/C to properly work? If someone can explain.

You do not need to evacuate a/c with a 2018 530i xDrive. Procedure should be very similar if not exact same as this video. Front differential or front axles should not get in the way. I checked repair instructions (All Data) for the 2018 530i xDrive model, and it does not show work for a/c either before removal or after to recharge. Hope this is helpful.

Yes, for your m550i model evacuating and recharging the a/c is needed when replacing the coolant radiator. On the 530i model the a/c does not need to get evacuated, the condenser on this one is coolant cooled and uses a smaller heat exchanger that does not block the radiator from coming out. I pulled out the high temperature and low temperature coolant radiators at the same time. I searched for 2018 m550i and for that one it does show the a/c condenser is a normal air-cooled condenser, in the front, and system does have to get evacuated when replacing the coolant radiator. Evacuating the a/c is a listed previous step before removing radiator. Then shows, “Feed the radiator with the air conditioning condenser out through the top and remove it with the help from a second person." Hope this is helpful.

@@thatonebmwguy9925very helpful, thank you for your time, acknowledgment and information. I performed this on my own following practically all of your steps and the added step for my condenser and had no issues at all! Quoted at $1100 for labor without parts and this only took me maybe 2 hours.

Yes, this is how you can start the coolant bleeding procedure for the electric coolant pumps installed. This also activates the electric thermostat and opens a shut-off valve to the heater core to allow the coolant to circulate through the heater core and remove any air pockets. The low temperature AUX coolant pump (electric) will activate along with the high temperature turbo charger coolant pump (electric). This helps get most of the air from both systems, but starting the car is still needed to finish bleeding the high temperature cooling system. The main engine coolant pump is a mechanical belt driven pump. Start bleeding procedure with diagnostic mode (hit start/stop button 3 times fast without pressing brake pedal), turn both side temperature dials to max heat, use blower on lowest air setting and last hold the accelerator down for 10 seconds Hope this is helpful.

For this vehicle its a hose that connects the main coolant radiator to a seperate/side external radiator on the right front lower side. The hose is part number 17 12 8 602 633. In the BMW diagram its not part of the main coolant system diagram, there is a seperate one with only 2 coolant hoses and a bracket. Hope this is helpful.

@@thatonebmwguy9925 yes thank you my dude

!!Do not open cooling system if vehicle was just driven or if engine is hot. Wait until engine is cold before opening cooling system caps!! Start bleeding procedure with diagnostic mode (hit start/stop button 3 times fast without pressing brake pedal), turn both side temperature dials to max heat, use blower on lowest air setting and last hold the accelerator down for 10 seconds. The smaller expansion tank (low temp cooling) should start running the electic coolant pump and begin to bleed, showing bubbles or flow in the small expansion tank. I recommend doing ths first and then topping off if any more coolant is needed. Tighten small expansion tank cap. For the big expansion tank (high temp cooling), the vehicles engine has to get started to run the mechanical water pump driven from the engine belt. With the car cold, you can start the engine and let it run for a couple minutes at idle with the expansion tank cap off (You can place cap on the tank, but not twisted on, to help avoid coolant splashing out). After a couple minutes, or if engine temperature level gets to the middle in cluster, shut engine off and and add more coolant to expansion tank if needed. Tighten big expansion tank cap. !While the engine is on, keep an eye on temperature gauge in the cluster to make sure the vehicle does not overheat. If temperature guage starts to rise, past the middle, shut the engine off and recheck coolant level! Hope this is helpful.

@@thatonebmwguy9925 Its done. It worked thank you very much. Eventho mine is 540i, but it was the same thing. God know how long this new one will last. The 6 cylinder was a little harder of a job i had to use some one else help holding the radiator for me.

540i B58 should not need to evacuate A/C. If the condenser/heat exchanger is coolant cooled, not air cooled (like the older vehicles) evacuating a/c is not required. The heat exchanger should allow for fan and radiator to get removed with enough clearance. The G30 with B48 and B58, A/C has the coolant cooled heat exchangers. G30 M550i model has, older style, air cooled condenser in the front of radiator. This one does need to have A/C evacuated. Hope this is helpful.

I lift both front wheels using two jacks, one on each side. With jacks holding up the vehicle I also always use at least one jack stand underneath as safety (two jack stands is always better/safer if mounting points are available).

Ok thanks for the reply!! One last question. If I’m utilizing the plastic jack posts for the jacks, where do I put the jack stand?

Anywhere on the front subframe, with flat surface is ok. I will place them on edges near the lower control arm bolts (subframe side), or in middle sometimes near the oil pan (not on the oil pan!). I do not lower the car onto the jack stands at any point, I keep the car up with both jacks and raise the jack stands to highest point possible closest to frame. Hope this is helpful.

I’m installing my new radiator with the same part number but I noticed there is an extra hose attachment on the passenger side. Do I leave it open?

As long as it is not a pass through for coolant it is ok to leave open. In video mark 5:56 the bottom right, there is an extra atachment but it is not open for coolant to pass through. Comparing that one to the same attachment on the left side, the left attachment has a different circle outlet with space for coolant hose snap ring to secure to. Hope this is helpful.

It has plastic holding tabs on the left and right edges. I used a scrapping tool but a screwdriver in between should also work. Just have to separate the pieces enough and pull down the panel. (The metal screws do not hold on that trim, screws only secure the radiator to support). Hope this helps.

Thank You!

That hose was the hardest to get off. I used a long 18” right angle pick (to move back the spring clap) and a long 19” panel popper to push the hose off. To get hose on I used the panel popper to align the hose and then gently pried on the hose to get the spring clamp to engage. Hope this is helpful.

@@thatonebmwguy9925 Thank you so much for this excellent video! --After much determination and managing it get my fingertips in there, was able to successfully remove and reinstall the hell-hose. Wasn't sure if I was doing the water-pump part right because I only heard the small reservoir gurgling, but ran the engine for a while and not a drop.

Appreciate the feedback. Thank you! On this vehicle only the smaller reservoir will bubble using bleeding procedure (low temp cooling system has a electric coolant pump) and the main reservoir/high temp cooling system will bubble only with engine on (mechanical coolant pump ran by the drive belt).

www.bmwpartsnow.com had it in stock at the time i needed, all other places radiator was not available/sold out. www.ecstuning.com is also a great site for BMW parts.

17 11 8 476 010.

It has plastic holding tabs on the left and right edges. I used a scrapping tool but a screwdriver in between should also work. Just have to separate the pieces enough and pull down the panel. (The metal screws do not hold on that trim, screws only secure the radiator to support). Hope this helps.

More repairs coming soon.

No, disconnecting the battery is not noted in the repair instructions for this job. I recommend closing doors and waiting for the car to power down (start/stop button light goes out) before starting the work. Also do not open the doors with engine sensors or components disconnected, it is possible a fault code will get stored for the disconnected items.

Hello. When bleeding coolant system try to switch between max cold for a few minutes and max heat for a few minutes, two or three times. Lifting the front of the car with a jack can also help get any air out of coolant system. The engine I believe has an engine oil/coolant heat exchanger and also a transmission oil/coolant heat exchanger. You can check both engine oil and transmission oil for contamination. If something is found cooler is internally leaking. Last, is possible the heater core inside the cabin is leaking and the coolant is dripping onto the underside of car through the A/C water drain. There might be coolant stains where vehicle is parked. Hope this is helpful. If you find cause of the coolant loss please update comment. Thank you!

@@thatonebmwguy9925 thank you my friend for the useful information I will check the steps up and tell you if I found the issue

!!Do not open cooling system if vehicle was just driven or if engine is hot. Wait until engine is cold before opening cooling system caps!! The small expansion tank is only used for the Air to Water intercooler cooling (on this model/engine). I recommend starting the coolant bleeding procedure just to make sure the low temp cooling pump is turning on. You should see water flow or bubbles in the small expansion tank. Start bleeding procedure with diagnostic mode (hit start/stop button 3 times fast without pressing brake pedal), turn both side temperature dials to max heat, use blower on lowest air setting and last hold the accelerator down for 10 seconds. If the pump is running, cooling system is ok, and replacing the small expansion tank is the only fix. If the pump is NOT running, coolant will not circulate to the front (low temp) radiator and could cause same issues even if expansion tank gets replaced. Its normal for the expansion tank and other coolant hoses to require replaced from about 80-100k miles. The high temperature cooling system is a completley seperate system and is used to cool the engine, turbocharger, oil filter housing, transmission cooler and to heat the cabin. Hope this is helpful.