Thanks!

Did you get it tuned right?

Couldn't agree more!

Usually a circuit control code indicates some sort of wiring issue. I would double and triple check all wiring because most likely there is a pinched or broken wire somewhere or maybe even a loose ground somewhere. Try swapping coils between the banks and see if the problem moves or stays on that bank. That will help barrow it down to the PCM or wiring

Specifically check all the wiring going to the coils on that bank. Trace the wires back as far as possible. You may have to unwrap the wires unfortunately to do so. There are quite a few tests you can perform as well if you have a voltmeter. Just post the specific codes you are getting and I'll see what I can find.

@@ChrisVaughnTech thanks for the reply, I’m getting p0300, p0351,P0353 and P0355. I will swap the coils across bank and plan on taking the intake manifold Back off this weekend to check on the harness better.

Hello, I found a nicked wire on cylinder 2 coil plug removed intake manifold tightened grounds and refitted injector and high pressure fuel pump plugs no more codes went for test drive noticed slight misfire engine light flashes under load then goes back off again.

No codes found in system I used another code reader with the same result and I’ve driven with mine plugged in and it won’t pick up any codes 02 sensors still read not ready

This was one of the first cam swaps I've done on a Gen 5 engine. It was completed for a customer at a performance shop that I worked with but I hope to be offering this service on gen 5 engines soon!

i spent $1400 stage 1 cam kit afm dod delete on my 2017 gmc sierra and 600 bucks on my hp tuner but i did the work myself

@@jcperformance928 website you ordered parts from?

@@jcperformance928how did you get the timing chain off?

Your best bet is to call BTR or GPI and speak with one of their sales specialists. They are extremely knowledgeable when it comes to different applications and what cam specs would work best for your setup. Just give them a call!

@@ChrisVaughnTech Hey I'm in the middle of doing the AFM DOD delete with the Texas speed kit and stage 2 cam on my 2017 l86 Yukon Denali and I'm been curious if you know of or has anybody done a port injection with the direct injection together similar to the 5.0 mustangs that way it'll get rid of the carbon buildup on the valves?

My 14’ took a dump on cylinder 6,same issue,worn cam and AFM lifter

@@protecaodivina23 I’ve always been a Chevy guy but bit the bullet and bought a 2019 ram 1500 with the hemi Saturday. And damn I’m loving it so far. I did end up doing a rebuild on the Chevy before trading it in tho

@@bloncomike my cousin has a Ram limited,and yes they are very nice,wish GM would get their head out their ass and make quality work again lol

Originally we planned to do the entire job without pulling the engine but made the call halfway through to pull it. You can technically do this job without pulling the engine but it takes some skill to get the chain and cam gear on and off and to verify the timing marks are aligned.

@@ChrisVaughnTech quality work from quality people. Thanks, Chris.

I know this is old but I wish to know this as well. I a lot of people opt to do this without pulling the engine and it looks like a lot of the work was done with it in. So it is confusing.

When you have 4x4 and you need to drop the pan it’s easier and quicker to pull the entire motor out for the 4x4 trucks.. otherwise your removing everything in the way to drop the pan

That really just depends on the tuner. I think it's possible to do with a handheld but definitely not ideal. The best way is to have it street tuned by a reputable tuner who has experience with this platform. Trust me it's money well spent

You need quite a few things including the complete AFM delete kit

The lifters have to be changed from the AFM style to the regular style. Or you can use aftermarket high end lifters as well.

If you are trying to save a few dollars, then don’t doing. You really need to change lifters, valve springs when doing a camshaft swap no matter what, but this is my personal opinion tho

@@reyperez3424 why change the valve springs if your gonna use the same cam specs?

So there are two ways to go about it. The way I chose to do it in the video is completely remove the engine and pull the oil pump, oil pan, and do everything. If you want to do it without removing the oil pan or the oil pump it's a tough job. You have to loosen the bolts to the oil pump and try to give just enough clearance to walk the chain off the cam sprocket without removing the oil pump. It can be done and I've seen it done but it's a very tricky job with the oil pump still on

Thank man! Really appreciate it

It's a little hard to say what kind of reliability you would have because it's heavily dependent on quite a few factors. Deleting the AFM system would likely increase reliability by removing those troublesome parts but you would have to make sure that what is installed in their place are quality parts and they are installed properly. In my opinion, if you're looking for longevity & reliability, I would delete the AFM system completely and install a very mild cam with all the supporting mods. I can't stress how important it is to choose quality lifters and make sure you have the proper length pushrods to create the correct lifter preload. I recommend the Johnson 2110 lifters or if you can step up to a pair of link bar lifters that would be ideal. The plastic lifter trays easily wear out and cause problems. Eliminating them would add reliability. From there you just need to get a proper street tune from someone experienced. You shouldn't need to mess with converter or gears as long as you keep the cam specs mild

@@ChrisVaughnTech awesome. I appreciate the response. I think that’s the route I’m going to end up going. Mild and reliable.

@@ChrisVaughnTech what are the cons of deleting the afm system without changing the cam

@@orogold330 you can't delete the system without swapping the cam. You can disable it in the ECM but that's not a delete.

@@ChrisVaughnTech is there still any benefit from deleting it from the ecu

About $3k in labor plus parts

I can't remember where they came from but if you search on google for valve spring tool you will find them.

Guess that's a no lol. I'm curious to as want my 17 done.

If you buy a mild cam, and only do a cam swap, you’re looking at around 300-500 for a cam, and probably close to 1000k in labor. If you have a buddy, that’s mechanically inclined it’s no rocket science.

Yes you should. Reinstalling the OEM parts is just asking for another failure as the AFM lifters are prone to failure.

@@ChrisVaughnTech what size cam would be good as a mild cam,nothing aggressive but enough to hear it chop lol

@@protecaodivina23 Give BTR or TSP a call and they can tell you all you need to know and get you a package together that suits your exact needs. They are experts at putting those packages together. Just give them a call

Sounds good man,thanks for your time.

It was a Texas Speed stage 3 can I believe and yes you always need a re-tune on the ECU when swapping a Cam.

@@ChrisVaughnTech not always there is some mild cams that don't necessarily need a tune

@@MichaelWittner 😂 🤡 Even stock engines need a tune

@@reyperez3424 lol well thats a rabbit hole we can go down

Doesn't really matter considering it has a fat cam in it lmao

It's not 100% necessary to pull the block. Some techs have some fancy ways of working the chain off the cam gear and getting it back on but unless you are very familiar with that process you are almost certainly going to end up pulling the block. There is a way to simply loosen the oil pump bolts without removing it completely and that can sometimes give enough room to swap the cam and gear without removing the oil pump. If you can do that then you may be able to avoid pulling the block. My biggest issue was that you still cannot see behind the oil pump well enough to line up the gears with any degree of certainty. So as most others do I chose to pull the block just to make sure everything was perfect

@@ChrisVaughnTech thanks for the response man, I appreciate it.

@@ChrisVaughnTech This guy knows what he’s doing, that’s the best way to do things right

You don't technically have to pull the engine but it makes the process a lot easier so that's what I chose to do.

@@ChrisVaughnTech i had asked because i'm in the process of replacing a wiped cam in a 16 tahoe ppv 4x4. i can't see a way to lower the pan, and i can't see a way to get the pump off without lowering the pan. this started off as just needing new lifters on the p/s bank, but as luck would have it the cam's toast.

@@1ltcap lol you are running into the same exact problem that I ran into. The main issue is that you can't get the chain off of the cam sprocket with the oil pump still bolted on. You can loosen the oil pump bolts slightly and some people are able to get the chain off by doing it that way. But the issue with that is that it becomes very hard to align the chain and make sure that your timing marks are correct when you put it back together. So I chose to pull the engine just to make sure everything was completely correct that the timing was right and that there were going to be no leaks or issues after the job. I know you probably don't want to hear this but you should just go ahead and pull the engine and it will make the whole job easier

@@1ltcap even if you could lower the pan, you would have to reseal the pan with rtv. These don't use easy pan gaskets. You have to RTV everything

@@ChrisVaughnTech you are correct, i don't want to hear that, lolol. that said.....it's pretty much what i needed to hear though, and i appreciate that video, and your advice. i'll be pulling it next week as soon as i've caught up on all the work i've been pushing back to deal with this. thank you sir.

Anytime you swap cams the engine needs to be re-tuned.

Thanks man

I believe they came from Texas Speed

Yes the PCM will have to be street or Dyno tuned by someone knowledgeable

Usually I try to steer clear of giving any advice over the phone. Your best bet would be to call BTR, GPI or Texas Speed and talk to them. They literally have people for that exact reason who know exactly what you need and can help you order the correct parts for your build. Just give them a call.

@@ChrisVaughnTech thank you so much sir

Send me a message here or on Facebook and let's chat. I'm only working on dealer inventory at the moment but we may be able to work something out

This one took about two days but that's because I took my time and really documented the process. This was one of the first cam swaps I completed on a Gen 5 engine so I was very careful and meticulous to make sure it was done properly.

@@ChrisVaughnTech I appreciate the reply so it would take me about 4 days lol

@@kjam87gxp it's definitely not as easy as a cam swap on the 3rd or 4th gen LS motors. Those are much easier. This is very time consuming and usually requires the engine to be pulled to do properly. It is possible to do this job without pulling the motor but I found it to be faster and easier to just pull the engine out.

@@ChrisVaughnTech I am by no means a mechanic but am mechanically inclined. I want to do this but don't want to mess anything up.

Couple days I’m on month but it was my first time and I did everything. Pulled engine, cleaned down to nothing, drained everything including transmission. Built custom Dual exhaust still finishing, swapped struts bilsteins 5100 and eibach 2.50 lift springs, painted entire engine, the block, covers, coils everything, long tube headers, new tires.. it’s been quite a journey I just need to weld stock cats that I power washed threw for emission on the down pipe.. I wanted to port the heads but decided against it and also modified air intake with another 3 inch hole coming out the bottom.. if I did it again it take half the time but first time just double check take time

In my experience a dod delete will increase fuel economy.

It was a TSP stage 3 cam I believe with TSP PAC dual valve springs

Sounds awsome nice work

Texas speed

Justin Daniels @ Precision Speed Technology

The shop that this work was performed at is located in Southwest Florida. I completed this job while working there but I hope to have my own shop up and running soon!

@@ChrisVaughnTech can you let me know of any shops or mechanics near gainesville or jacksonville please thank you

I'm not too sure. We didn't usually dyno trucks of this size. Typically a full cam swap job, tune and few other supporting mods should get you 100hp gain

@@ChrisVaughnTech how much would you guys charge for this service?

I believe it was a Texas speed stage 2 or 3 cam for the L83 engine. Texas speed, BTR, and GPI are all good options. You can simply call them and they will go over your setup and needs and recommend the perfect package

@Lorenzo Displacement On Demand

That's not at all why I pulled the engine. The oil pan and oil pump needed to come off for this one so we made the choice to pull it and do all gaskets at the same time.

@@ChrisVaughnTech oh alrite i just thought that happened but keep up the good work bro 💯💪

@@nokchevy1 setting the timing on these engines is super easy. It's just two marks and you align them so that's not an issue at all. The problem was that the oil pump needed to be removed and to do that you have to remove the oil pan. The oil pan on these engines is RTV sealed so in order to install the pan and seal it correctly you pretty much have to pull the engine to do it properly. So that's what we did

​ @ChrisVaughnTech Why did the oil pump need to be removed, is that part of this procedure or was it unrelated?

​@K0NFUZE you don't have to remove the pump to cam it but you do need to mark everything since you can't see the timing mark on the crank Sprocket if you don't mark it and it moves now you have to pull the pan to take the oil pump out and time it