Glad they’re helpful. I appreciate you.

Hey Maxwell, that’s awesome! It’s great to hear you are taking care of your Toyota yourself. Have fun with the transmission job and thanks for the kind feedback.

Thanks Greg, I appreciate you.

Just did this on my 21’ tundra. The drain plug magnet had a piece of metal that looked like one of those caps you puncture on a tube of sealant. Odd as heck, but thank god for that magnet.

Hey Gregory, I think you’ll like the Quickflow pump. If you’re interested, I did a review of it you can watch here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mc6TobhjydDFaaM.html. Happy wrenching.

I like that idea. Thanks for your kind feedback Jeff.

You’re welcome, Khanh. Keep that Tundra going - you won’t see another V8 Tundra from Toyota again.

Thanks torque, much appreciated.

Yup, you’re correct Adam, thanks. Happy wrenching.

Sure thing. Cheers!

Thank you, I appreciate that.

Wow!

Hey thanks.

Oh,TMI!

@@ToolDemos 😂😂

Yup sure is. Hopefully we can all do the easy stuff now to avoid the big repairs if we don’t.

Not yet, but that sounds like a good idea. I will put that on my to-do list.

Good idea.

That was brake clean. Just a solvent to make clean up easier.

Sounds way easier.

Don’t know for sure, but I assume it is QC check marks made at the factory.

Hi Tony, there’s just over 50k on the Tundra. I found a significant amount of metal on the magnet, pretty surprised and glad it’s all clean now. Thanks for watching.

@@ToolDemos I did mine around 45k mi and found the same my rear was also slightly milky so very glad I did mine. Might have been from launching boat. I'm going to 30k mi intervals

Nope, change the gear oil now. It will preserve the diff. As far as transmission goes, could be too late.

Hi Ismail. I haven’t noticed any change at all. I also thought about OEM fluid but it isn’t available in the US (as far as I could see). The manual does allow for other brands with the same specs.

I used amsoil. Maintenance done right you're not going to see performance gains

12157-10010

I don’t remember exactly, but it was most of that last container. Sometimes when I’m using that drill pump it will leave a little bit of fluid in the container and I will pour that into the next one so I don’t waste any.

I always assumed that the pumps are identical, but the 97 comes with transmission adapters. I’ve only used two of them, so if you don’t need all that, I’d save the money.

Yes, Darek. The washers are one-time use. When you torque the plug, it deforms the washer to create a perfect seal.

Thanks GT, I appreciate the info.

Glad you liked it!

Hi Henry, the big copper washer is Toyota part number 90430-24003. The smaller crush washer is 12157-10010. If I remember correctly, the rear uses two copper and front is one of each.

@@ToolDemos thank you for that info.

Good recommendation.

There’s no need to. Personally, I like to stick to a 30,000 mile interval.

Yup, same differential

@@ToolDemos thank you. Great video.

There’s an emissions sticker on the hood. Front - passenger side.

The LS (limited slip) additive will not adversely affect an open differential. The Toyota LT designation on their oil is just a random name that doesn’t refer to any specific type of differential.

@@ToolDemos Good to know, thanks for the reply!

My recommendation for removing a rusty drain plug is to apply heat with a torch. Once you get it hot you should be able to remove it without too much effort. If your 10 mm socket doesn’t fit because the plug is stripped, I recommend placing the tip of a cold chisel at the 12 o’clock position and tapping it towards the left with a hammer. That should loosen it up enough to remove it with your socket or maybe a pair of pliers. Remember to remove your fill plug before you drain the differential that way you can be sure you will be able to fill it when you are done. I hope this helps. Good luck with your project.

Toyota is trying to fuck me telling me I need it done every 30k miles lol glad I came to the interwebs to see how to do it and realized they are trying to fuck me. But the list is like 20 pages long of the shit they are telling me needs done

It doesn’t make any difference.

You won’t find anything like that in the owner’s manual. You’d need to buy the info from Toyota TIS or some other source.

I was using that floor jack for years, it finally started leaking. It was a Torin, I think, but I decided to get rid of it. I’m probably going with an Omega this time.

Hi Vince, front and rear both require 75w85 GL-5. The only difference is you’ll need almost twice as much in the rear than in the front.

I can’t honestly tell you why Toyota chose the gear oil that they did. Plenty of people have switched to 75w90 and it won’t hurt my feelings if you do it too. As far as super tech, I don’t use it myself, but it’s probably fine.

@@ToolDemos thanks

kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n7SKepSap8-me4k.htmlsi=q6Wa7O551_iCKBkl

Yeah the truck has a great ride. Unfortunately, I can’t compare it to the ride without it - because when we bought it, it came pre-installed. It’s the TRD swaybar option.

Toyota recommends every 30k if you are towing, or hauling heavy loads, dirt road driving etc. If it’s a grocery getter, you could get away with 50k or so.

M-18

No, that sounds more like a bad tire.

Maybe your tires needs balance.

It was my torque converter. Endied up grenading my transmission. Drove home with 1-2 gears. No reverse. Id give it gas and it would try to go into first then at around 5k rpm it would jump into first and it felt like someone rear ended me. $4200 later I'm a happy camper.

I wouldn’t know what to use to clean the pump. Whatever I do use would have to be flushed out before I fill a component. If I flushed with a solvent, I don’t want it to lose prime. I guess out of those options, wasting an ounce of new fluid is the choice I went with.