Appreciate it, definitely a smoother delivery, noticed an enhanced crackle and improved acceleration.. overall gives the bike an unmasked feeling of de-restriction👍

@@motobolt7796 very helpful indeed. Are u planing to put it on a dyno to check torque/hp numbers and air/fuel ratio?

@@avrc9285 if it was something people were curious about I could make it happen and post a video

@@motobolt7796 I’m curious defo 👍

Can you share the Part number? Or link? I would appreciate it. I really want this air filter. Thank you.

Thanks for sharing, great results even from stock.. you’ll love the outcome paired with your exhaust! Appreciate it😊

Nice! Is there a change in sound?

Và bạn đã làm thử chưa?

Appreciate the feedback, cheers👍

Appreciate it! Yeah it’s a common air restriction to be euro compliant throughout the MT range

Have witnessed the results in my experience but would love to demonstrate this one for you guys👍

Congrats! I should have access to the dyno to bring you the results soon, it’s in the works and yeah Woolich has cracked it!

And ruin your engine by having it run lean.

@@josephfelice601 no it wont lol.

@@williambrewer855 At least explain why.

@@josephfelice601 it may run more lean than factory but not lean enough to cause damage. The 02 sensor in the exhaust will monitor exhaust gases and the air content within it. The bike will automatically adjust to a lean air fuel mixture and will add more fuel to compensate. Now if youre running no filter at all then thats when i would have concerns.

You guys are wrong, the mass airflow sensor is after the intake, it adjust fuel delivery depending on how much air it measures. If you would have a leak in between the mass air flow sensor and throttle then it would be a lean condition

Pleasure, many thanks 😊

Straight up dude. I was gonna do a full DNA air box and then found that When dyno’d it actually takes 1 hp away and just gives more mid range

This is the comment I was looking for! Exactly my thoughts!

Ya the reason I didn't do this modification, when I had the tank apart I noticed the air intakes were on the opposite side, top and also bottom, which probably means it's made that way to catch more dirt and debris, if you do this modification it seems like it will go right past the filter into the engine. 🤷🏽‍♂️

Yes much better!

Your comment does have some merit but also keep in mind when they are designing things, it's on the basis of legal emissions restrictions over anything else first. I can't say if this is a good or bad for engine health but I can confidently say I wouldn't bother myself. Any gains would be negligible best and more than likely just be moving the peak power elsewhere in the rev range rather than actually giving a real performance boost.

Not to worry mate, I've followed your advice and butchered the airbox lid this morning and fitted a DNA Stage 1 filter. Didn't take long at all, about an hour so decided to fit my Ermax belly fairing as well. Instructions were, god awful if anyone plans on doing the same 😬 I've only got the standard MT09 but it's pretty tricked up now with KTECH suspension on the rear (Razor-R), stiffer springs in the front and a couple of grands worth of other mods (Carbon Akra etc) Only thing lacking now is the Cruise control. I purched the clutch side switch gear last week and but unsure if this can be retrofitted. If you don't try you never know so keeping fingers crossed. Had an interesting discussion with a friend who's had some long convos with a tuning specialist in the (U.K. of 26 years) and their message to him was:- Hi ******, I have in the past tried AirBox mods and Air filters aftermarket. I have not seen much difference in terms of power outputs. I have not attempted to modify the AirBox on these as yet as looking at the way it is designed I believe that if it were to be altered we might be going backwards. Quite a number of motorcycle owners do actually realise that it is not the maximum power output figure that matters...its the way in which power is delivered, those are the numbers that prevail." That being said I've got mine going in for a remap next week and the tuner im going to has just mapped another 2021 MT09 identical to mine without the Airbox mod so will be interesting to see the difference between the two. I will try post up the results for any that may be interested 👍🏻 Thank you for sharing your knowledge and for imparting some things for us to do to our bikes 👍🏻

@@DBOLT666 hello, any update?

@@ADDONRACERfinally had the bike remapped and its completely transformed the bike.... pulls like a train now. The original yamaha map was shutting off the throttles to 81% in 5th and 6th gear at 10,000rpm and I did previously notice this but didn't think too much about it. Having the Woolwich remap is night and day different and has vastly improved the fuel air mix ratio. My bike was running lean and now a lot better right down the line. Regarding the Cruise Control retrofit I have decided against doing this unless I crash the bike..... 😔 Having studied the parts lists for both the standard and SP bikes and discussing it with my main dealer it looks like the bike will need a full wiring loom change (different part numbers), ECU and Key/Immobiliser, both side switch gears on the handle bars plus SP clutch lever. Fuse box is included in the loom part number but will require a couple of extra relays to accommodate the extra wires in the loom. So personally im giving up on my quest to retrofit as it would be cheaper and far less hassle to just buy an SP. According to Fowlers Parts UK the SP ECU is £955 alone (P/N BAM-W825000). The main wiring loom £905 (P/N BAM8259000) The switchgear + an extra small bit of loom (which I've already bought) has cost me £500, opposite side switch gear another £500 New ignition and key which will need coding to the ECU and you will also need the SP clutch lever as well. It would be far easier and cheaper to just sell the bike and by an SP. If you are considering a remap the Woolwich Racing remap is worth it's weight in gold. I've just come back from 2 weeks of riding (from U.K. to the south of France, 10hours of riding each way as well) and the bike just gave more and more. Brilliant experience 👍🏻

For sure, improved airflow doesn’t discriminate on exhaust choice

Appreciate it, your bike will definitely thank you and yes as soon as I can get to the dyno I’ll make a video👍

@@motobolt7796 cheers for replying , i`ve only done a 100 miles on mine due to our petrol crisis , look forward to having petrol and getting it run in

@@mididash hope it’s looking up for you, only gets better from there and after first service!

In an analogy, it’s the equivalent of exercising with a mask on.. and this mod is taking the mask off 😷 better breathability, enhanced power and better acceleration with a side of sound improvement

It’s just cutting the intake snorkel which eliminates the maze of restriction just to get access to air. Changing the height of the actual trumpets located on the battery side of the air filter is what will do what you’re suggesting here which wasn’t touched. All we’ve done here is essentially taken a mask off while the bikes exercising👍

@@motobolt7796 well done :)))

@@motobolt7796 I just bought the same filter. I do have the same exhaust and i ordered from itally new ECU/fuel module with a wide band O2 sensor for better fueling. I will alter the snorkel but not in the way you did because we need to fill all the airbox with equal air pressure. by doing your way all the air will be sucked through the top of the filter instead of all the filtering area.

@@KHIJAPAN It’s not ram air like the Kawasaki’s, air pressure equalisers in the Airbox, it sucks as a whole through the air filter and not concentrated to one area as you suggest, it’s like suggesting a vacuum head is useless as it will only suck in the middle.. you’re increasing the CFM of air into your Airbox and available to your engine as the throttle body controls, allowing it to breathe unrestricted.

@@motobolt7796 not true. The intake snorkels are part of a finely tuned airbox system that uses resonance to move air with almost no resistance. The snorkels you cut off can be imagined as tiny ram-air inlets, in which the interia of moving air is used to suck more air through the snorkels, as the resonant frequency of the columns of oscillating air line up precisely with the pulses of high and low pressure created by the intake valves opening and closing. This is tuned to happen in a certain RPM range, usually around half of redline, as that's where most engines with valve overlap experience their strongest dip in torque. By cutting off the snorkels you have at best moved the resonant frequency to a less useful part of the RPM range, at worst (and more likely) removed the effect completely. In other words, by removing the snorkels you have actually added resistance to the system.

Part number: P-Y9N21-01

The rear of the tank won’t hinge upwards without undoing the front ‘tank to chassis’ bolts as it’s flush against the mount of the 2 bolts at the back. You’re best bet would be to undo the front ones also, lift the rear up and over the mount and then reattach the front ‘tank to chassis’ bolts, now hinge it forward with and elastic strap to a garage crossbeam and then un-clip fuel line, plug and overflows tubes.. finally undo the front bolts and lift it off - one person job👍

@@motobolt7796 I insist that if you put back the two screws at 1:40 and put out the other screws at 0:24 you could lift the tank up from the back to undo the connections.

@@bill64gr my previous reply agrees but to be successful has to be done in the order i laid out. Back of the tank won’t hinge upwards if you leave the bolts in at 1:40, the mount at 0:24 is in the way. Only way to be successful, remove bolts at 0:24, remove bolts at 1:40, lift rear tank up and rest on top of mount, now re-secure bolts at 1:40 and now you can hinge tank upwards and disconnect tubes on your own

just the looks

A Weight Reduction of : 2.6Kg Power Gain : 4.5HP (3.3kW) at 9600 rpm Torque Gain : 3.4Nm at 9600 rpm

Congrats! In the long run yes if you plan to get an exhaust system as well. Otherwise just the filter for now, and leave the power commander purchase and instal till after you’ve paired it with an exhaust👍

Power commander? What does it do? Enables you to tube your exhaust?

@@2jzRedLine it’s a little module that seamlessly optimizes your air/fuel ratio without directly changing the ECU, making it effortless to push it to the max. Easily uninstall to revert back to factory default settings when you feel like giving everyone else a chance

@@motobolt7796 that looks sweet. Still flashed ecu unavailable right?

@@2jzRedLine there’s rumours it’s been cracked by Woolich, but only rumours for now

Better breathability, enhanced power and improved acceleration with a side of extra crackle

It’s a shame you have to remove the cables and fuel lines, otherwise would be pretty straight forward.. ideal design would be the tank can just hinge backwards to reveal full access to the Airbox

it's more like a sports bike air box design, which the airbox sits under the seat, on my 890 the air box is more like a dirt bike design, it is under the seat and has an opening facing to the right side,

@@grumpybraincells6612 yeah it’s less than a 2 min job to change the air filter on a KTM 890, well designed and quick access

form over function if you ask me..!!👍

Easiest way to describe the process is to treat it like a circlip, slide a small flat head screwdriver up between the closed side and with your finger unclip the left and right open side as you twist the screwdriver. It’ll unclip and free up the gas line to be pulled off like a plug.. hope this helps👍

@@motobolt7796 Thanks!

yes

Not the same being 2021, but for 2020 and earlier they’re the same across the models.. 2020 Part number for DNA or K&N is: DNA: P-Y8N14-01 K&N: KYA-8514_3

I’ll be doing a performance air filter video on the 2020 Tracer GT this week👍

Better breathability, enhanced power and improved acceleration with a side of extra crackle👍

Nice one 👍

So you have basically saved £300 on your mod.. instead of fitting the full dna air filter box 👍. I've got the 21 sp to..

@@DW-hx1xm congratulations, good choice 👏 yeah essentially only paid for the DNA air filter at $180 AUD

Part number for the DNA Filter is: P-Y9N21-01 The remainder is a little manual labour 😊

Correct. Any gains through the intake side would be through opening up the head, where the bottleneck is actually occurring.

I had a look at them, but they only have half the surface area available in comparison to the DNA.

@@motobolt7796 not true. The standard P08 has equal surface area to cotton however with higher flow rate due to being composed of Polyester fabric and not using oil.

@@motobolt7796 You would be correct if we were talking about the P08 F1 filter which you can practically see right through

what does more air if you do not increase fuel...absolutely nothing .

No I haven’t had that issue, just had its first service with 1500 kms on the clock and only positive things to report