We like our new DeWalt® DXCM303. The air pump is oil-lubricated, so it will last a long time. It’s quieter than our oilless compressor. Even so, we added 3 things to make it better and easier to service!
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The DeWalt® DXCM303 Upright 2 HP Single-state oil-lubricated compressor is a great improvement over the oilless unit we had. The new unit comes up to pressure quicker while being a lot quieter. We'll mount it semi-permanently in a separate room on a short platform, along with an inline oil and water and master pressure regulator.
As good as it is now, we thought it could be better in three areas:
Intake air filter
Air pump oil change drain
Pressure tank condensate valve
Let’s see why for each.
INTAKE AIR FILTER. The stock unit is minuscule, so there is limited surface area on the filter, so it will load up pretty quickly with dusty shop air! The threaded port on the side of the air pump head is a standard size, and a good filter housing and cartridge was easy to find.
We went with a metal housing unit from Compressor Source:
compressor-source.com/product...
The unit is made in the U.S.A., and filter replacements are readily available at a reasonable price. At the time of filming, we paid about $35 plus shipping. The unit is about 6” (152mm) in diameter and 2-½” (64mm) tall. It is nicely made and fits perfectly.
AIR PUMP OIL DRAIN. The air pump is cast iron with a nice oil sump. There are two 5/16” (about 8mm) hex key plugs - one to fill, and the other to drain the oil out. The fill plug is easy to access.
The drain port is another matter. Without creating some type of pan or tray, the oil will “drool” over the front edge of the motor and pump mount and then down the front of the compressor tank.
The plug threads are standard ⅜” NPT, so it’s easy to fashion a drain valve and tube assembly. With this, oil drains off the side of the compressor into a catch bucket. Easy!
We’ll simply need to shut off the compressor, let the bleed-off valve do its job, get the drain bucket in place, remove the top fill plug (to assist with better flow out of the drain), and open the bottom valve and let all the oil drain out and shut the valve. Fill the oil sump again with the right amount of compressor oil, reinstall the top plug, and put the compressor back to work!
PRESSURE TANK CONDENSATE VALVE. The air tank on ANY compressor needs to be drained of condensate (water) that accumulates in the tank (and it WILL). This is due to moisture being “pressed” out of the air as the air is pressurized. So, what’s the big deal?
Corrosion - rust. The steel interior of the pressure tank is highly susceptible to corrosion via rust. As the metal pits and flakes off, the tank walls thin out. This can lead to tank failure when the tank is pressurized. When that happens, it is literally explosive with damage, and potential loss of life.
To avoid this, condensate needs to be drained off - we recommend weekly, and even more if humidity is high. The valve is located at the lowest part of the pressure tank to properly drain the tank. So, it can be difficult to reach that valve, depending on how the compressor is situated. Usually, the valve ends up being under the compressor, meaning getting down on your hands and knees (or sometimes your belly), to open the valve and drain off the moisture. This also puts your face near the outlet. That’s not good.
Many times there isn’t sufficient room to put a catchment tray under the valve, so water is blown all over the shop or garage flow. Messy.
The answer is to extend the valve out so it is easier to access. In our case, we’re going to install the valve extension AND raise the compressor so the valve is not so low. We’ll also put a catch bucket with an “anti-splashback” lid in it to keep everything neat.
DeWalt® offers the DXCM072-0023 Extended Tank Drain Valve Assembly for about $30. We bought ours at Home Depot.
www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-Ex...
When we build the stand for the compressor, we’ll also fashion a mounting bracket for the outlet end of the extension. The quarter-turn valve has threads on the end of it that will allow us to securely fasten it with a nut, and then put a downward-facing elbow so that the water is discharged down into the catch bucket.
To use the valve, we’ll shut the compressor off, reduce the pressure in the tank down to 20 PSI or so (using the compressor pressure relief valve), and then use the tank drain valve to expel water before shutting off the valve and turning the compressor back on.
No more crawling around the floor to do this necessary task, along with the elimination of excuses to procrastinate getting it done!
With these updates, and the maintenance schedule we’ve implemented for our equipment, we expect this compressor will outlive us.
JUST DO IT YOURSELF!