Part 2 is up here! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mdCHgs503svNc30.html

You know you've made it when a doctor (from Australia) deems your content good enough to explain biomechanics ;-) Glad you found the footage helpful, and I appreciate the acknowledgement.

As someone who's been climbing for 15 years, I absolutely love your explanation on how all of the muscles and tendons work together, and the examples/diagrams you provided. When climbing I can feel everything moving around, and know what's being used for what, but I've never seen something like this to see how everything's working together specifically for climbing. Keep up the great work!

A full-on series is very much needed. I think many people would appreciate if you could pull in some numbers for forces different joints and tendons can withstand and how all 4 fingers and thumb compare to each other. Lookin forward to some epic vids.

Physical Therapist here, rock climbing enthusiast, and youth climbing coach 5+ years. Just want to say I was impressed with the information and presentation here. I learned stuff too!

I've never subscribed to anyone after just one video, but this one was so well done. After climbing took over my life for 7 years, I've never had a pulley injury, but accumulated stress on my joints forced me to quit 4 years ago. It was devastating. I don't know if watching videos like this will ever allow me to climb again, but it would give me peace of mind to learn what caused my injury so i can warned others not to follow in my footsteps so they can continue to enjoy climbing. I would greatly appreciate a video on synovitis in the PIP joint for climbers!

Gonna have to rewatch this, but I'm a climbing newbie and this had a lot of interesting information! Thanks for explaining with such helpful examples/visuals :)

Really excited to see more, this provedided some great insight into the reasons behind certain things you instinctively do

I’m new to climbing but have done sports for a while. I was really concerned about finger injuries right off the bat and didn’t know what a pulley injury is. This video helps so much! This gives me confidence to keep climbing slow so all of the muscles in my hands get stronger. Thank you!!

Excellent video, I’d love to see a similar treatment on the shoulder. Keep up the good work.

As a climber I always knew it felt stronger to flex the fingers I wasn't using. But I never realised why until now. Interesting video! Thanks

I'd Love to hear/lean more about the shearing force on the lumbricals please.

YESSSSS YES YES YES A HUNDRED TIMES YES!!! I love biomechanics and I love rock climbing, but there’s not a lot of biomechanical discussion on the internet. PLEASE keep making these videos!

Good Video! Would like to see more climbing videos, especially about preventing finger injuries and how to deal with them.

Cool!! Great stuff thanks, the first try it yourself experiment was pretty fascinating

You should acknowledge the other climbers and youtubers in your video

Cool video! Really enjoyed and subscribed, excited for more

Thank you a lot that's super interesting, and help to prevent injuries. Subscribed istantly ❤️

Nice video! I've been gym climbing about 2 years and have never really known what the pulleys were.

im new to climbing and this was the best climbing video ive seen so far. thx! insta liked and subbed :D

Wow u only have 555 subs 0.o this is top quality content! Keep the good work, in no time u'll be famous!!

Thank you so much for this video. Watching this helps me understand why I cannot close or extend my hand properly after suffering a full open dislocation of a finger.

Wow. Explained so well

This was super cool! I'd love to see you tackle some more climbing related topics - but either way I subscribed to keep an eye on what you cover in the future!

Love your videos, waiting for an iceskating one 😁

I just saw you on reddit. Really good video :D

I can't wait to try and think about this next time I climb!

This is fantastic, could you do the biomechanics of the 3 big lifts? Squat, Deadlift & Bench? Great content hope this turns into a series!

Awesome video! Very informative and easy to follow with the 3d Skelton model. Do a video about shoulder mechanics in climbing!! Thanks again

Just found your chanel. So much potential in here, keep going!

just watching this viedeo makes all my mdps and fdjps feel better :D

Amazing video!!

Thank you from France !

Great Video! Very brief and comprehensive. Enjoyed watching.

Outstanding video! thanks for the whole new way of looking at climbing.

Fantastic explanation! Even being a doctor did not give me that clear picture what I got from this video!

good stuff! I've been meaning to talk about climbing biomechanics in my vids as well! Maybe one day we'll cross paths 😊

Very well done video. One terminology correction, at least in my area, open grip is a type of "crimp grip" when you said crimp grip you were referring to what is commonly called a closed grip. There's also a half grip which is... Wait for it... Halfway in-between the two.

Would love to see more videos on this subject

Super informative definitely want a full series

Thanks for your sharing

For most rock climbers this is basic knowledge, if it is'nt it should have been. Great video

Hi I watched this video way back and I thought you did a fantastic job! I’m coming back to this video to ask if you could do a video on the biomechanics of a drop knee and why this technique is so useful.

Thanks for the educational video. I would like to know about the golf elbow for climbers. Hope I can see you cover this topic later.

Editing tip to Curious Doc, you had me confused at 4:49. Following your explanation of a back flag, you showed how not to do a back flag, but your transition was so quick that I still hadn't processed what a "proper" back flag was, and had to go back and find the original clip. Next time, try including a clip of proper form "after" you explain what something is so that we viewers can visualize what you just said. Regardless of everything I just said, I love the video and you just got yourself another subscriber. I love biomechanics. Thanks for the awesome video.

Is there a way to strengthen tendons? Like how way you can gradually build up your muscles? Or do tendons only deteriorate with use?

Please make a video about extensor tendon injuries. All climbing injury videos are about pulley tendons.

very interesting, thanks

I am a climber and i always did all the things just because it felt easier 😅, but the explanations were very interesting!! 👍

Nice video and really good explanation! =) I study civil engineering and thinking about this sort of stuff on a mechanical basis really came in handy for me when climbing. Broken down the body on the wall is really just a static system that shouldnt move (at least until you reach for the next hold). Your hands and feet are good at transfering vertical and horizontal forces but very bad at handling moments. You can avoid moments by either manipulating your center of mass or by smartly placing the supports (your hands and feet). Understanding and applying those principals, be it analytically or intuitively is what makes good technique.

So great to see a doctor from Australia

Are there any good reviews on topics like this? The common injuries in climbing review seemed like it was missing a lot, and the only other great article I could find was on lumbrical strain.

very good workout, rock climbing

Excellent video. No bullshit, just the facts. I climb a lot and would love to see your take on shoulder engagement through different moves.

Great vid, cheers!

Wow! You're amazing!

Please do the same kind of video about dancers!!!

0:01 Hi A doctor from Australia! I am A Viewer from the Internet!

More climbing!!!

Really loved the video

Awesome! Really interesting thanks :)

great vid keep it up

this is amazing

Great video, thanks for making. NB there is a difference between the Quadriga effect and quadriga phenomenon- thee former being pathology arising as a complication of repair

i totally screwed my left ring finger lumbrical about 6 weeks ago :/ thanks quadriga effect! :D

great video! thanks man

That was so helpful oh wow

very good

Great vid!

Maybe try finding more digestible names for what you're describing. The video was nice but it was difficult to follow at times due to the technical jargon.

great vid! much appreciate for the vid. Do you climb yourself?

two of my favorite KZfaq climbers: mani the monkey and movement for climbers 😁

Good video

that's awesome, as a starter in climbing I cant wait to try these!!

Awesome video!

It looks like im climbing nerd coz this was quiete intwresting 👍

So when you talked about using a mono or pocket and the benefits of retracing your other fingers for additional strength, could that be comparable to going into a full crimp for the strain on your tendons and ligaments? And if so could using a mono with all your fingers extended be safer or at least less stressful on your body in comparison? Thank you!

So interesting! Wish anatomy was taught like this more

I have to try this Quadriga Effect but I think my body already has without consulting me haha, it's just weird to have your other fingers extended on a mono or bi because that takes a little bit of effort that you can't spare at that moment.

4:50 i dont quite get it. when is the base of support at one side, in wich situation is it diagonal? couldnt you also draw the base of support between the left foot and the right hand?

3rd year medical student and climber for 4 years, here. I just wanted to say this was a really well done video. Thank you!

Do the Elbow from a climbers perspective next please mate.

Holy Facking Shit!! I learned soooo much from this!

More climbing content. Specially on fingers. Subscribed here.

Nice 😁

Sick!

Good vid! Maybe I missed it being cited but some of this footage is also from Mani the Monkey, which is another channel with good climbing content.

this means using your tendons is aid

me, a sedentary, at 2am: interesting...

Do you have a video how to recover the ligament in the middelfinger? I injured it 2 Month ago by climbing :( And my doc just say: dont move it...

Would using your middle and pointer finger be stronger for pockets since it can use the individual muscle belly? My ring and middle is stronger but this makes me think it shouldnt be?

suggestion: this video, but for parkour. Also, thoughts on intermittent fasting?

Very neat. With my index and middle fingers blocked, I can get a good solid curl on my pinkie and a fairly decent curl on my ring finger. I also have that vestigial muscle/ligament thing that pops up in the wrist when I touch my thumb to my pinkie. Not sure if that makes me extra caveman-ish or not, but I like it!

i rock climbed like, 3 times in my life (all bouldering). But each time I have shit load of fun and a painful realization of how weak I am. Looking at this video I realize how much that goes into it. How should I start to learning how to climb and work out to make myself stronger?

I am a biomechanist. Very nice representation of the pulley system, but in my opinion at time 3:38 you incorrectly defined the expression "base of support". Your green line is simply the line joining the *support* point (toe) to the *suspension* point (hand). More importantly, at time 3:42 you gave misleading information, when you said that the BCM (body center of mass) should be "in line" with the green line. That's not correct. Actually, the BCM should be: 1) as close as possible to the *vertical line passing through the toe* (which is the true "base of support", whenever only one foot touches the wall) and 2) as close as possible to the toe (because this decreases the moment arm of the weight force relative to the toe, which greatly decreases the load on the hand, which is typically acting with a much larger moment arm, relative to the toe). In short, most of the load should be on the toe. And this is obtained by flagging, back flagging, dropping knee and several other techniques. Notice that your green line is almost never vertical, i.e. almost never coincides with the vertical line passing through the toe. This means that typically the best possible position for the BCM is not along the green line (even though the rock might prevent you from reaching that optimal position). Also, you did not consider the importance of the ratio between the above mentioned moment arms. There are examples of positions in which the BCM is placed directly above the toe, which implies 0% load on the hand (i.e. 100% load on the toe, due to null value for the moment arm of the weight force, relative to the toe). In this optimal case, your green line might be very distant from the BCM, because the hand may not be directly above the toe.

hey so I was able to bend my ring and pinky fingers without the index and middle...

Slackline!!!💯

Beauty

I am seeing a channel aspiring to make great videos. I would highly adivse you to treat the room you are recording in because there is a lot of reverb

I can do the two finger bend but not the three finger bend.