Haha. Listen to a podcast or something. Quite relaxing actually

I remember in one of his videos about training on his home wall he mentioned doing 5.11 circuits for an hour and it just completely blew my mind. I mostly boulder and should be able to climb a 5.12 sometime soon but the thought of doing a 5.11 for that long is just on a completely different level. Really shows what 20+ years of training can do.

You really don't need years of training to climb 5:11 terrain for an hour at a time. That endurance would come in months, assuming good movement technique.

Learning to not over grip; using excellent technique to minimize energy expenditure; and and being able know how to rest is not only mandatory for high end Trad; but for sport climbing; and highballs; but even for short and difficult boulder problems. Being able to hang on for a second longer because you did not overpull; or got below fifty percent effort; and recovered a bit of power on precrux moves; or don't overpull on moves above a crux: and then fail there. ( That used to be a specialty of mine: cruising low cruxes; and then falling above them. Push; don't just pull was not natural for me)

Yes 40 minutes. Now stop talking cos you still have sets #2 & 3 to go! 😂

Just because I've spotted this doesn't have a reply: my anecdotal experience from being a climber who started indoors and would burn through 3-4 hour sessions 3-4 times a week in a gym, and then having moved to the Peak district where I now mostly climb outdoors = my skin was worse indoors. Some ideas as to why: a) the gym environment (a feeling of wanting to get your money's worth or time's worth by going hard) - encouraged in me the kind of high intensity Dave warned about rather than the low intensity approach he was describing in this video. b) the gym setting style & material. Plastic is actually pretty rough - but more importantly - its roughness really starts to matter if you're encouraged to rinse and repeat a lot, or do a lot more 'comp style' big moves that involve a lot of slapping, dragging, and generally punishing your tips. If you're on wood holds on the circuit board - perhaps this isn't an issue. But I found that regardless of rock type (we have very rough grit and sometimes very soft limestone here) I just wasn't doing so much repetitive scraping on training days (projecting being a different thing). c) exception that proves the rule: it is definitely easier to mash up other parts of your fingers/hand outdoors - cuts on sharp bits, don't even ask about crack climbing outdoors - etc. but when people talk about 'skin management' - it's usually tips and the above described problems of friction that they're talking about. Conclusion: Your skin adapts over a medium-long time to the environment you're training on (consistency, again); so if your climbing technique gets good on a rock type or style, and you're training - rather than going ham at your limit, then my own experience suggests that skin quality for a large volume of training will eventually still depend on the quality of the training, precise gripping and movement, and not the hold material.

What he is doing here is essentially ARC training

I do this on the autobelay the day after a strenght session usually and it works wonders for me. Two sets of an hour just gives me alot of endurance and capacity to relax on the rock. Also it helps to rest on route. This is my favourite way to train for long tufa rutes with lots of rests. For me it is important that there is some overhang so that I get some weight on my hands ... (good for recovery too)

Yes I definitely follow a skincare routine to mimimise this problem. First and foremost, train at windy crags in the shade in the hot months. If you must go indoors, get the biggest fan possible and train on wood.

Yes. Build up your basic level of finger and body strength. So many beginner/intermediates are just not strong enough to stay on the wall for extended periods even on good holds. Hangboard + fingery bouldering several times a week. After a few hundred sessions you won't have this problem anymore.

You can train them concurrently if the total work is not too tiring. The sessions described in this video are so easy they are not tiring at all and you may finish them feeling as fresh as when you started. So its not necessary to drop strength work. I did 6 sessions per week hang board while doing this. Going to bed early will help.

@@climbermacleod thanks again Dave, I'll give it a go in the next phase. At least I'm an early sleeper.

Yes. It is similar to protocols climbers were doing in the late 1980s and early 1990s. A video on this coming in a month or so.

I had a masters degree in exercise science and ten years of experience in experimenting with my own training.

@@climbermacleod I had a phd in literature, and I can attest it doesn't help with climbing. Did something wrong on the way 😂

I instruct movement patterns in clients the way I used to teach students which is this process of basic learning about the thing, then opportunities to try out the thing, situations to be successful, and then challenges where this must be used to be successful. This would be akin to those situations to be successful, which is great, but make sure you attend to the practice during and head into the practice knowing what you should be doing technically.

@@zacharylaschober Thanks for the reply!

The only place I have ever been set upon by youths was Bearsden (bricked in the face, lost a tooth).

In his trad climbing tutorials I'm fairly certain he said while he was sport climbing around 8a in a few years, he was only trad climbing at around severe alongside that. But then once he was comfortable with gear he was able to go from HVS to E3 in one day.

I suppose it depends what your goal is for the 10%. You might get more out of it from a technical point of view than anything else, if you only care about bouldering.

Same days

Climbing nearly always mixes energy systems. I do usually make a cup of tea between doing a hang board and endurance session though.

@@climbermacleod Nuf said! Thanks Dave! 😄

If you drive to a crag, yes. I suppose the question is why not base your van at the crag? The age old climber's training strategy!

@@climbermacleod thank you, guess I need to just get used to the idea that I can have multiple local crags. Just need to explore a bit more

I think you have sort of answered your own question there. The steps involved in doing dangerous climbs safely in a composed manner is its own reward but 'adrenaline junkie' doesn't really fit the nature of that reward. I'm writing a whole book just now on why I climb bold routes.

Discussed elsewhere in the comments already. You need to increase your finger and upper body strength by a large amount (or strength/weight ratio) such that moving on large holds for long periods is not difficult. There is no way around this. Start on the fingerboard and don't stop kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hsuSeZZ_3qurgJc.html

@@climbermacleod Thanks! I am for sure, but I have maybe a more short term problem being of significantly outlasted by people with much weaker fingers on very easy sport climbing terrain (7b vs 6a on the kilter board etc)

Yes of course.

@@climbermacleod thanks for your answer very appreciated

These are not really things to be compared except to determine how much time to allocate to them. You need both.

@@climbermacleod Thanks for the answer

Yes, several.

If you've not been doing endurance work lately you'd see an effect after the first week. But aerobic progress is measured in months and years. Start yesterday, don't stop.

@@climbermacleod Do you mean if someone got ongoing projects which demands it, you would do this protocol all year long every year ?

@@victorblondel1902 Kind of. Perhaps one wouldn't need to go as far as all year long, but as you say it depends on what the goal demands. But yes, endurance athletes across sport spend large amounts of time moving on a near-daily basis in their chosen sport.

Yes I suppose that is the subtext of the video. But I would add that the relationship of discipline, focus and setting up your life to make the training happen is bidirectional. It didn’t take much discipline when you move to a place with very low cost of living, right next to a free, perma-dry crag. Hard not to get into a focused routine when all the hurdles are removed.

That was my thought too. And that was a major act of faith in achieving the outcome when he did this.