Thanks for watching, Hoss. We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations.

My 2013 four stroke 60 says to start it as well.

Man, my new Mercury 15hp says to start the engine while using the flush port !

Thanks for the info, Sailfish. We always suggest following manufacturer recommendations.

Thanks for the question, Jackalcat. Without knowing the model engine you have, I can't comment specifically. The best advice is to read your owner's manual for the manufacturer recommendations. If you don't have a copy, you can usually find one easily online.

Thanks. I will get the owners manual then. The previous owner did not have it...weird, but that is the case!

Thanks for the suggestion, Bruce! We'll put it on our list of topics for consideration.

We always recommend following the manufacturer recommendations for how to flush and how long.

That's what my Merc manual says also

I flush my yamahas while running every trip. The mechanics do it and recommend it. The engine must not run over idle and the water supply needs to be high pressure. Don't try flushing two engines at the same time.

@@three4one-grouper_fishing Thanks for your response. We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations for your specific engines, which it sounds like you do.

Where is the flush port on a new 4stroke 150 horsepower

Great question! Yes, it's highly recommended to flush outboard engines with freshwater every time you use them. This is especially true if you boat in saltwater or brackish water. But even if you boat in freshwater, a flush after use will help clear out any silt you might pick up. Each motor is different, so consult your owners manual as to the recommended method and flush time.

Thanks much I apreciatte It the reply

@@boatus How long to run with a Ear Muff setup, is there a thermostat we have to wait to open before we stop flushing? Possibly another vid for the RIGHT way to do this type of flush?

@@BornAgainCynic0086 Hi Jeff. Ask and you shall receive: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hKhnaq-Bp565aJc.html We just posted this video on outboard engine flushing a few weeks ago. The amount of time is generally the same, but consult your owner's manual for manufacturer recommendations.

Hey Robert! For the flush itself, the motor can be up. Making sure it's tilted down becomes of importance when and where freeze damage is a possibility. In this case, it's imperative to have the motor tilted down all the way so it drains 100 percent.

Not sure which outboard you have, but I just pulled a selection of Suzuki 4-stroke owners manuals from the manufacturer's website, and all specify using MARINE oil around page 6 or 7. If you respond with your specific engine model, I would be happy to look that one up to confirm. Also, while interesting (my weekends are incomplete without "Car Talk") and a good explanation of what the oil classifications mean, I'm a bit slow on the point you're trying to make with the latter comment. Can you explain? (Maybe I just need a bit more caffeine this morning?)

I visited the Suzuki and found a two page sample page owner manuals with no reference of oil . I looked up by my own 2003 and 2013 owner and service book and came with the same result as earlier . service book supersedes marketing books or Suzuki's web site as it is designed by marketing and not checked fully for errors since it is not a technical book and some web designer may added or delete information on the Suzuki engine. If you post a link I have Suzuki to correct their web site .. this is the link I found www.genuinesuzukimanuals.com/samples/sm.pdf

Go to www.genuinesuzukimanuals.com. I'm talking original owners manuals here, not marketing materials. At the top of the page, select "marine" from the dropdown menu, then choose your engine. (You'll need the model, prefix, and engine number from the plate.) If it has a "download PDF" next to it, click on that for a free PDF download of the manual. Otherwise, it is probably worth the $20 to purchase it. (And even better, if you've got an extra $90 and you do any of your own work on your engine, download the service manual. This is the actual manual the techs use for servicing.) FWIW, EVERY PDF I downloaded (and I downloaded several) recommends using Suzuki MARINE engine oil. I'd be happy to email you a copy of the PDF and/or screen shots.

Hey Robert! Thanks for the question. Can you elaborate on what you mean by "smart system"? Like remote vessel monitoring?

Thanks for watching, Christa! Yes, you are correct. While marine and automotive engines work similarly, marine engines encounter a lot of conditions that vehicles don't, thus the difference in oil formulas. Plus, using the oil recommended by the manufacturer helps ensure the motor is covered under warranty should something go wrong. But you'll always have folks who think they know better ... 🤷🏻‍♀️

Stay tuned, Newt! We've got a video coming up in the next couple months on how to perform an outboard compression test that should cover this topic enough to get you started. If you haven't already done so, be sure to subscribe to our KZfaq channel to receive notifications when new videos are posted.

i found them

Awesome to hear!

Good one! We'll put it on our list for consideration.

That's what I did, but here is one worry. My older boat was not built for the weight of the new four stroke engines, so I needed to plan that carefully. I ended up with a Yamaha 115 4 stroke, though I really wanted the 150, but as is, the 115 is a bit too heavy and give me a bow high attitude, unlike the weight of the original 2 stroke powered engine that was on there. Now I'm moving the batteries forward, and getting a dolphin for the cavitation plate to bring the nose down a bit

Jmichael Isbell thank you very much for the response and information!

Here is one more--FAR more important issue I ran into. One that is way too often overlooked. On boats of a certain age, they did not have, as a legal requirement a true "sea cock" in place. That device has a 45 degree shut off valve for the water inlets into your boat--like your bait tank. Newer boats come built with it. My older hull did not have it, so I put one in. Hardest to reach job I ever did. But see, imagine as an analogy if your water main bursts at your home--what do you do? You run outside and shut off the main, right? Same deal here, if a hose breaks or pops off and your boat starts filling with water--you have minutes, maybe seconds to "shut off the main" and that's why by law, new boats have this. Many boaters have their boats sink out from under them because their tiny bilge pumps can't come close to keeping up with a true, catastrophic failure of one of the thru full fittings. Especially consider you may have family--kids, on that thing, so I figure we have a responsibility to have the thru hulls iron clad. Do it yourself or hire it--but get it done, for sure. Even expensive yachts sink ALL THE TIME, with that as the main cause. The biggest thru hull of all? When you have an inboard power and an engine shaft that sticks through the bottom of the boat, with a big rubber gasket to protect that seal. Imagine the engine running-maybe a bit out of time; the vibration is constant and after that gasket gets brittle--and it will, all of the sudden "the boat is filling with water"--and down you go to the old place, as old seamen used to say.

@@jimquantic thats why I have an outboard on my full keel sailboat...I keep appropriate sized wooden plugs tied around the sink, head discharge, head intake through hulls...and thats all i have but the head thru hulls are getting filled in next time in the yard .

Stay tuned for the April/May issue of BoatUS Magazine. We have a big feature coming up on electric boats and propulsion. We look at the technology itself, what's already on the market, and what's coming down the channel. Not sure you're going to get 80 hp equivalent, but there are changes in technology that may allow for longer trips. And there are also some hybrid options (think Toyota Prius) out there.

Thanks, Andrew! Some good points here. Hiring a good mechanic is critical to keep things running well (and warranties valid). That said, aBoatU.S. towing membership is a cost-effective backup for when things do happen.

Absolutely, Gus. We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations first. This video was not meant to be all-encompassing but a reminder of common mistakes folks make with their outboards.

Brandon Murphy , yup guy was fullbof it with that.

Mobil one actually has really garbage shear resistance. I find it funny how the average Joe thinks mobil one is some god tier oil when it isn't. Nobody I know uses mobil one in anything they actually care about.

@@potatoe4221 In cars and motorcycles Amsoil is far superior to Mobile1 and if you buy it online and get over like 100 bucks worth you get a discount that makes it cost about the same as Mobile1.

Now, now, fishin fool ... remember: happy wife, happy life!

It deserves better 😉

OH NO!! What a disaster!

I don't have actual statistics to share, but those auto mixing VRO systems had horrible reputations around here. Most people I knew disabled them and went back to premix to prevent oil related failures (from lack of oil).

Point taken, but you'd be surprised how many people just use the deck brush on their outboards while they're scrubbing away. If they didn't, we wouldn't have to say it!

Follow the manufacturer recommendations f you want to maintain your warranty.

We're flattered! Maybe there's a boat in your future? ;-) Thanks for watching.

work on; owning a life?

.weighs too much for my 24ft full keeled sailboat...i have an 8 horse mercury that i start about every month or so ti run for a few minutes but its an auxillary, and I have a primary means of propulsion which i prefer

Thanks for your comments. While flushing the majority of outboards use similar procedures, each manufacturer may have their own specific requirements. Most small Honda outboards (5 to 50 hp) require the engine to be run during flushing and most large ones don’t (usually 60 hp and over). Check your manual to be sure.

Had 150 Honda same procure with muffs got to get through pump and full cooling system. Had a 40 Honda too has the put the tape over inlet procedure too.

Understood, I have a 200 V max and always use the flush port with engine running. This use to be in the manual . All manufacturers removed it because owners were doing it incorrectly, IE revving up etc. To each their own, but I have done this for years and have a flawless maintenance replace issue every 2 years. Start flush water to have all water ports flowing, start motor, never idle up/rev up, let engine warm and run for 15ish minutes. Its all about keeping the water pump veins wet (lubricated) as to no ruin impeller. Maybe OK to flush as soon as you return to port without starting engine, but you have to warm up engine to open thermostats, if not thermostats will corrode closed and overheat engine.

I would add this one tip: let it run long enough for the thermostat to open, for years I flushed it and did not leave the needed time for it to come up to normal temperature. As a side "My know it all" isn't quite fair Martman, he never said he was a know it all, and seems a pretty good guy, to me. Just sayin.

lpfdemt r

We always recommend following manufacturer recommendations for your specific engine. Our consumer protection department has many recorded cases on file where boat owners try to save a few bucks by using the wrong oil then when something goes wrong, the engine manufacturer denies the warranty claim. Bottom line: Read the manual and follow all recommendations to avoid voiding your warranty.

1:36 "The problem is they put automotive oil in there. Uh-uh, no way, don't do it! You have got to use dedicated outboard oil (while holding up Quicksilver brand oil)." sounds like you are pushing one type of oil over any other. At no point is it said "Make sure to check your manufacturers recommendations, but we recommend dedicated outboard oil because of the following reasons..." Really makes me wonder if this is baised information, and you guys are just paid shills spreading bunk science, like Quaker State did with their Slick 50 line of products back in the 90s.

About 15,000 NZD/10000 USD for a new 90 and $50,000 for the boat and mooring so can definitely have dealer warranty service and warranty oil. Some big outboards carry a free service for three years and a full service here is about $350. I bought a little 4 meter boat once with a 40 Honda and needed full service adjustment lubrication and tune cost $460 NZD. Replace new 40 four stroke $16,000 , second hand one year warranty $7500 NZD. No brainier use the dealer or at least recommended manual outboard grade oil or unless you can explain to the coastguard and worse of all the missus why you were missing and the boat needs a new motor.

It's rigid so that Yamaha will get money from a person that uses the wrong oil and ruins a part or two

BoatUS , and ignore know nothing youtube videos.

Thanks for your comment, Carmel, and you'd probably be correct in most cases. However, while it's hard to see in this video, Lenny's boat is a fishing catamaran. That's why the outboards are placed as they are. Thanks for watching, and please subscribe to our channel to get notification of our new videos each week!

Carmel, in case you're not familiar with Lenny's style of boat, you can get a better look here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/jtuhnbJ8xLPQdXU.html

What about the old evinrudes and mercuries?

What city in japan you from? I would take a set of oars over your choices. .

Yamaha all day everyday! Reliability when I am out in the Gulf means everything to me!

@@JosephSmith72 yeah yamaha honda and suzuki are the most reliable

Thanks for your feedback, Bruce. We're not saying that these are the MOST important mistakes. We're just saying they're three COMMON mistakes. Not flushing your outboard properly IS a big mistake--unless you have money to burn on repairs and new engines.

We prefer to think of it as educating the next generation of boaters.

You're right, it probably won't help much. But taking care of your outboards on the outside means that you're probably taking proper care of the internal maintenance as well, which means fewer breakdowns, longer life, and higher resale value should you decide to sell or upgrade your boat/engines.

The point in washing the outboard either internally or externally is to rinse off saltwater - and ive seen an engine thats never been rinsed in or out and it lasted 5 years and cost £12k - internally it was smashed to bits and covered in solidified salt! So yes wash/rinse it all after every trip and esp end of season, or that salt will literally eat your engine parts away til next season

BoatUS always recommends using the oil recommended by your boat or engine manufacturer. If your manual says to use marine outboard oil and you choose not to, you will most likely void your warranty.

BoatUS go talk to a chemical engineer who specializes in oil , Still crap info

Have fun voiding your warranty dave g. Outboard oil has much more zinc and phosphorous, which is less concentrated in automobiles because it screws up catalytic converters. Makes no sense to void your warranty and risk damaging or lowering the life of your engine just to save a couple bucks.

sawmaster 609 x

If it EXCEEDS recommendation from manufacturers... enough said

Completely agree on the fun boating part, T210. What's not fun is when you can't use your boat because your engine won't start. Or you and your family get stuck out on the water when the engine fails. We're trying to help keep boating fun with a few easy tips to help keep your engine working properly-when you most need it!

Boating should be fun, a broke down boat bobbing in the water waiting for a tow is not fun and neither is the repair bill.