Oh shit thanks

loved your video...your definitely a pro...ex-military im assuming...anyway...just brought a set of karambit knives off eBay...but i have no idea how u would sharpen a curved blade like this

You have some good points in your video, but the thing you failed to mention actually happens to be the most important thing to keeping a knife sharp in the first place: *Keeping your stone flat!* Anyone wanting to learn how to sharpen themselves should learn how to maintain their stone before any other skill. You can have perfect technique, but technique doesn't mean jack if your stone is out of whack.

OUTDOORS55 what if the knife came with fuckered angles? I ordered a knife that has a really good steel buy the rumor is that they cut corners on sharpening. People have said they received it with 24° on one side and 15-17° on the other. How big of a problem is this and do you recommend having a professional reprofile the edge?

OUTDOORSman

Sharpening a knife isn't really a fundamental skill in today's world.

@@mygaffer it will always be fundamental. Always. Safety is always paramounr

@@mygaffer it is to many people actually. Unless you don't use knives in your life I guess. But I use knives for many things in everyday life. I carry one in my pocket at all times. And I believe it is fundamental to know how to sharpen it or any kitchen knife I use daily

@@mygaffer soy lattes for everyone!!! Foh

@@mygaffer why isn’t it? you…don’t cook anything?

@@aprawtv No thanks

I come from a long line of German/English butchers... My grandfather was a butcher for 50+ years & he taught me the exact same as in this lesson. In Fredericksburg Texas look up Dutchmans Market. That is the shop my grandfather opened back in the late 60's early 70's. The only reason he quit being a butcher, the grim reaper came to see Pop in 1976. This sounds gross but I grew up in a slaughter house. Learned how to butcher a cow or a deer before the 2nd grade! It comes in handy since I live on a 7K acre Black Angus cattle ranch in Texas!

@@33fastcar nobody cares

@@tayvin6538 well you don’t have to be an asshole

@@tayvin6538 fuck you, just because your rude ass doesnt care .

I've heard of this tip before, but remember differing schools of thought as to the size of blade it works on. From some sharpeners, I've heard/read that smaller blades (something smaller than the clip point blade on a Case medium stockman for example) this doesn't work. Personally I've never tried the running water method, but I am curious as to when this is applicable. (When looking for a burr I use a jeweler's loupe I keep in my sharpening tool box)

This is my preferred method if at the house. Keep those fingers clear of the cutting edge!

Something I just found out about. I was getting ready to buy a magnifying glass for the purpose of looking at my knife blades but, did you know that if you have an iPhone it has a built in magnifying glass feature? And that it also has a light. It’s totally awesome. For anyone that doesn’t know, here’s how. Go in settings, then tap on accessibility then scroll down to magnifier and turn it on. Some phones you go settings, general then accessibility. Then to access it, tap you home button 3x or there is a little magnifying glass icon on your slide screen that has your flashlight, calculator, alarm clock etc. on it. It works great and super powerful.

Wow Thank you Sir

Careful with the water some of my older knives rust very easy

Tino Valle I am just starting with stones and I really suck at it. I watched this video and tried my best but I made my kinda sharp knife so dull it couldn't cut butter. Thanks for the tip, I'll be sure to try it once I find a Sharpie. Let me know if there are any other tips I should know.

I prefer other colouors than black since that sometimes can get mixed up with (oxidized) blade material.

I mean if ur new to it u would assume its a new whetstone

I have been sharpening for a few decades and I still use a sharpie on the secondary bevel. To match the factory angle you can lay the blade on the primary bevel flat to the stone. Come up really slow and can actually feel when the secondary bevel is flat against the stone. Stop when you feel this and lower it a tad and bring it up again to verify. You need to mess up a few times but it is worth it. He also didn't mention to take equal strikes from each side to keep the apex in the middle of the edge. You can alternate sides so you keep it in the middle. A light touch is better than a heavy one.

Cool tip

Thanks for stopping by! Good luck with your sharpening 😀

OUTDOORS55 i like doing the small circle method instead of back and forth

You mean like the review videos where they open and close the knife 17 times, talk about lunch, and their old car, and spend five minutes on the pocket clip?

Andy sinishtaj Exactly!!!👍

Nice name

You mean you’ve been dulling your knives for years

Can you use any leather to strop?

@@andrewtucker7990 Short answer: every material that can hold the abrasive paste it's fine, it depends only on your ability to not damage the edge. Long answer: historically the leather used to strop razors was the most stiff leather in the world: shell cordovan. It's the technical name for the leather cut made with the horse's butt skin (and the most expensive leather in the world too). It's a good compromise between a hard surface that can bend your edge while you strop, and a soft surface where your blade can sink and round your edge instead of sharpen it. That said, if you have a trained hand you can strop on hard surfaces like wood or mdf or very soft surfaces like soft leather, cork or even cardboard. As OUTDOORS55 has showed in the video, you can change your stropping technique to adapt to the material. For knifes with a double bevel, my opinion is to prefer more rigid surfaces like the shell cordovan. For other blades, like for example woodworking tools with one bevel only (plane blades, chisels), it depends on how you sharpen the bevel. Some woodworker prefers create a convex bevel with hand sharpening. In that case you can strop on very soft materials or leather with almost no risk. If instead you sharpen your chisel or your plane blade with jigs, you obviously want to maintain planarity on that bevel. In that case more hard and flat materials are recommended (like wood or mdf). PS: Forgive my grammar, I am not native english.

@@th34lch3m1st honestly, you have better grammar than most native English speakers. Also - great info in your post. I just recently decided to make a couple of strops for some friends out of leather scraps from making sheaths. The quality of lumber available is pretty poor, so I think I'm going to get a few pieces of MDF to use as a backing material.

​@@JustIn-op6oy Thank you. I'm glad I was helpful.

@@andrewtucker7990 hi, my father was a wood Carver for 60 years and he used an old belt made of a pig's hide for all his carving knives. His old hunting knives, pocket knives, my mom's kitchen knives, and my assortment of old knives...etc. He said it was perfect. He passed away 8 years ago and now I'm using it. It's pretty beat up but he was right. It's perfect. 🙂

Maybe the angle is bad?

@Blazin609 You don't sharpen backwards. Because you sharpen against the edge. Try forwards..

Blazin609 for every one who says to sharpen backwards there is another who says sharpen forwards. I say do what works for you. I use both methods and get identical results. The key is practice and muscle memory. Be consistent in your angles.

@@GreatJim54 Good comment. I think that all the politics and secterism in the sharpening community is sometimes entertaining, but fundamentally ridiculous.

I'm a wood carver since about 1980. This is a good video for newbies. All the basics are covered and the guy doesn't over explain and make it hard to catch on

Thank you very much for the kind words. I really appreciate it! Thanks for watching 😀

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words! Thanks for watching my friend 😀

I agree wholeheartedly

OUTDOORS55 I don’t think anybody is watching your friend.

Alabama Gunguy the old time barber always used a strop for his razor.

I'm right there with you. I always used that thing on the back of the can opener ( I know it's should not be considered a sharpener but a duller). Cleaning out our Dada shop my brother handed me a rather large file to replace my "duller". Lol! He then manslained with his engineers way how to use it. I'm 65 and can sharpen kitchen knives and my yard tools ( some of my dad's yard tools) with that old file. Or a rasp as dad called it. And it's a way of keeping him in my thoughts. And that's probably the cornest thing I've ever said. Now let me go look for that sharpening stone I have of his. 😊

Thanks for the comment! I really appreciate it! I'm just trying to share some of the mistakes, and things I've learned over the years. Thanks for watching 👍

OUTDOORS55 tips n advice through experience are the best. Straightforward addressing the issue, simple (easy) to follow

Wet sand paper on something flat. The same techniques apply.

Probably. It's not impossible to sharpen on 3000 but it will take many many hours. If your knife is quite sharp and you just need to make it sharper you can do it on 3000 but if it's dull you are saving much time by going to a low grit like 200 or 400 and then around 1000. Imagine having a rough plank and trying to make it smooth. You wouldn't start with 1000 grit sandpaper because it would take you forever.

anotherrandomtexan25 and

Jake Mitchell I am one of those beginners lol. It’s less that I don’t believe it and more that I am perplexed how it actually can work.

@@ayekantspeylgud A straight edge has a bunch of tiny(very thin, bendable) teeth under a microscope, the strop will align all of this making it much sharper. Ive seen and heard this is why a strop is effective. And when it dulls a little, bring it back to the strop and it will be great again.

Pressure (or lack thereof) only matters when you're working the burr off, or if you're sharpening razors. I usually use more pressure when initially profiling the edge, and transition to almost no pressure at all when finishing. A moderate amount of pressure is sometimes necessary when working with some stones, such as Arkansas stones. The biggest mistake I see beginners do is use too fine a stone on a new knife that's never been profiled -- you need to be very patient to apex a new (or old) knife with, say, a 1000+ grit stone.

I am a rank beginner. I bought a course stone from ace hardware, and I think it’s like a 200/300 grit. Anyway, I do understand grit and pressure as I work as a fabricator. But this one stroke backwards is great. One stroke, and I am able to work on my form. When I go back and fourth I feel like I am all over the place, and that I am damaging and filling the blade even more!

@@JeffAboularage I had to think back to a post I made 4 years ago, LOL. Darn, time flies! Since that time I've gotten much better at sharpening. The stage I'm working on now is sharpening broadheads for hunting deer during archery season. This has driven the point home even more. It's about angle and pressure, which cannot be taught. You just have to do enough of it to develop FEEL. I can now feel things that wouldn't remotely register years ago. My suggestion is to get a bunch of cheap, dull knives and spend hours getting them sharp. You can do it while watching TV or during breaks at work. Seriously. Just sharpen and sharpen, checking the edge every few strokes. You'll find most of what you do actually makes the blade duller, LOL.

Which one

Oh lol the sharpening tutorial npc duh

Technically yes, any blade CAN be shaving. However if the steel is too soft (due to poor heat treatment or very poor quality steel) it can be VERY hard to sharpen. I did a video sharpening a butter knife and got it hair whittling but it was the hardest blade I’ve ever sharpened. It all comes down to steel and heat treatment. Sometimes a lot of finesse is need haha. Hope this answers your question 😀

Status update, just shaved half of my hand with it :) it's medium sized Solingen knife, so i hope it'll maintain sharpness for some time. Another question: i have a Browning Black 338, it came absolutely dull, with convex edge..now, can i keep it convex and sharpen just the very edge of the blade, or is it better to make a full wedge out of it?

Sorry for the late reply sometimes I loose track of comments😩 you can keep a convex edge or put a secondary bevel on it and sharpen like any other knife. Convened edges can be a pain to sharpen but provide a lot of benefits, but the benefits only come if the edge is kept full convex. The choice is really up to you.

Thanks!

Buy the guide-knife it help a lot... you reach a nice angle. I start sharpen 1 year ago my chefknives without results and now slowly slowly i see that every time come better and to adjust a knife you don t need 2000-3000 grit buy a wet stone 400 and 1000 is enough for normal purpose and is enough to keep sharpen most of the knives. When youll learn how to sharpen better move on more grit and when you will learn very good move on diamond stones because diamond stone if you don t know how to sharpen very well are gonna fuck up your blade.

Alexander Samarin oiu

Alexander Samarin i

Sir try to visit my channel... I also have my own techniques in sharpening a knife...

My understanding is if you see light reflected off the edge of the primary edge (the part the cuts) then you have to keep going with your sharpening strokes. When the primary edge comes to a true point, light is not visibly reflected off it.

If the knife is not apexed in a certain way, you will see what looks like a flat spot in the edge when you hold it up to the light.

I'm no an expert on angles and convexing. I do believe though, that any hand sharpened blade will have some convex to it. Even if you are very good at maintaining an angle while sharpening, there will still be some variation in that angle. I have seen this to be true in larger items like axes. You can actually see the convex edge, even if I try to maintain an angle on a flat stone, or flat sharpening surface. I know some people have better technique and muscle memory for maintaining an angle than I do, so It may be possible to not convex if your really good. This is just my opinion, based on things I've seen in my own sharpening experience. Your mileage may vary. Thanks for the comment, and thanks for stopping by😀👍

Netyr convex edge sharpening on a flat Stone is easy just roll it up on the pull stroke

ared18t Yeah it's actually just as easy to learn as maintaining a constant angle. One you set the convex its quite easy to maintain. Actually a strop is generally good to maintain the edge even with frequent use. Good blade to practice on are opinel.

Netyr l

I'd love to be that good. I'll keep at it.

You can't really ruin an edge completely unless you took it to a bench grinder. Just practice maintaining an angle and go slow. It does take some practice. The mora bushcraft is a scandi grind. All you have to do with that knife is keep the bevel flat on the stone. Again just go slow and maintain an angle. Hope this helps🙂

Smith's or Lansky has a kit for sharpening. Look them up.

​@@richardhatt6541 Systems with a set angle are not the best on Scandi grinds (use the Wicked Edge a lot myself). The problem is that the system is very exact, but the grinding on the knife is not. So it needs a more flexible touch, which can be achieved free hand. Easily, since the grind itself functions as an angle guide.

Not that my opinion matters much, but I have found that wet works better

In my opinion wet is better than dry because you can remove those grains from the stone... Try to visit my channel..I also have a technique on how to sharpen my knife

Dark elf?

I have a feeling you and I are about to become - V E R Y C L O S E

Thanks for watching!

The steel doesn't know whether you go forward or backwards. I suggest only going backwards as it's easier for beginners to maintain an angle and not mess up. Once you have the proper muscle memory it doesn't matter. Thanks for the comment.

Morris Getman you got it right!??

Morris Getman outstanding..I agree with you.

Morris Getman You cannot cold harden (work harden) a blade by merely sharpening it by hand. There is not enough force needed to achieve that desired effect. You could harden the blade with a belt sander, but not by hand. Therefore, the gentleman in this video is not incorrect. I personally use the Japanese method of sharpening, but a knife CAN be made razor sharp by going backwards only, and that method is certainly easier for beginners.

Morris Getman thats true ,sharping forward make strong teeth on micro saw than backward sharping...and in this case your cutting edge is sharp for longer...

Not super hard or super easy. Pushing too hard can round off the edge.

You lucky dog...where I'm from we use our last good tooth,,(usually in the middle up top )

😂

Exactly!,,and this is better if cut hard materials,just like heavy used ropes, ,,,in my work in the sea we have to do with coarse nailon nets and full of mud ropes. Only a buckwards sharpening on a medium stone have effect. Shave sharpening in a fishing trawler ia absolutely useless .

you are wrong,,,,

Your wrong that a knife that can cut paper can shave hair 😂😂😂 my Bowie knife can slice through paper with ease but it struggles to shave arm hair and my other knife can shave arm hair but it can't slice a newspaper or any paper with ease it just tears the paper

@@bluehornet197 No.. I said..a knife that can shave hair...can cut paper easy.

@@sergeantdef.3572 yes I know what you said and I said a knife that can cut paper can't always shave arm hair I am being trained in knife sharpeming from a man who has been doing sharpening of all kinds of blades for over 50yrs I have seen knives that can shave your arm actually struggle to slice through paper its the other way around if you can slice paper like butter you can shave your arm hairs and he also repeated back to me what I just told you so I am repeating back to you what a master knife sharpener once told me

No you wont. Either way will get just as sharp. Whatever works for you is best.

Thats how ive always been taught to sharpen. Hold the angle & draw the edge along the stone. Ive never seen someone sharpen spine first like this

Great comment. Stroking backwards will cause the burr to roll from one side to the other while stroking forward will pull the material away from the apex. 20+ years on a burr bench in a precision machine shop taught me this.

Yea it is but you missed the point of why he said that. When you do that it's easy for a beginner to move the angle and mess it up and have to start over.

@@jasonrogers803 But doing it the bad way means being a forever beginner.

I was told it redeposit's metal where its not needed going backwards, I was taught edge control low angle 22 degree apex going forward on a diamond rod or stone....... But that's me and I am 52 now, we will try this on a axe and see where it ends up. Aloha

That works if you have the proper muscle memory for sharpening. However if your new, you may not possess the muscle memory to keep from digging into the stone. Sometimes it's very hard to tell you doing it. That's why I recommend going backwards. I still use that method in my sharpening. Speed will come with practice. But it's just a tip for someone new who is struggling. To each his or her own, as your mileage may vary. Thanks for watching!

OUTDOORS55 yes true but i would recommend it because if you learn it at the start you don t gotta learn it later and i would also recommend it to you Thanks for answering