omg, that was exactly the same issue with us and your comment SAVED me so much grief!!!! : )

Do you have a link to replacing pedal felt strips?

I realize your comment is 2 years old but I am stuck on the problem of a noisy damper pedal also and was wondering did you find a solution?

Very cool. Now you have some tools and some experience. Plus a good feeling that you can do it.

Hello ​@@feedback-loop!! It's me again about 7 years later... I'm having problems again with my damper pedal... Just like before, damper abruptly stops while I'm playing. Not sure if it was my poor soldering job or maybe something else... Potentiometer position ?

​@@amihanovhi, of you don't mind me asking... Your first soldering with the cables hold for 7 years until it began to have problem again? Thanks!

@@mvmarchiori Yes! But now I think it was a different problem all along. Maybe the soldering was unnecessary. Now I think I was wrong. The real problem might have been the proximity of the piece that moves the wheel to the wheel. Like it slowly moves away while you play until it's too far out... So when I sold the cables back then I also may have replaced that piece closer to the wheel... Next thing I will do if I ever have the problem again is simply reach down my arm under the piano and press the piece against the wheel I guess...

How do you know that this pot is linear? Based on marking? It can be confusing since there is no standard, and different manufacturers mark differently. See www.potentiometers.com/potcomFAQ.cfm?FAQID=29 As far as I remember (I am not so sure now), I checked the mid point myself, and it was far from 5K, which means that it is most probably log. Perhaps I should have mentioned that and the problem with confusing markings. Regarding the pedal names. They are also confusing. Perhaps I should have called the middle one "sostenuto" because it is a commonly used name for it in the US, but in Italian (and all this piano terminology came from Italian) sostenuto means sustain. And the right pedal, that is called either damper or sustain in the US, is called "risonanza" (resonance) or "forte" (loud, strong) in Italian. So I chose to call it damper to avoid confusion between sustain and sostenuto. So, with respect, I don't think I have made MASSIVE errors. Perhaps, I should have mentioned these differences in terminology, but it is hard to even remember to be so explicit about such details. I do appreciate your feedback. It helps to be aware of the confusing points and to try to be more careful next time. Thanks.

Well… there are 2 types of sustain pedals. The middle one is the sostenuto pedal and the right one is the damper sustain. So, he did not get it wrong.

OK, I checked the continuity from the connections to the potentiometer, they're good. I'm not getting any change in resistance when the pedal is depressed, apparently I need a new pot. How could I get a new pot. in this configuration?

You must be joking. What science? It just supports the pedals so that they would not hang in the air and the beam they mounted on would not bend and break. Adjust the bolt so that it touches the floor firmly supporting the pedals.

Perhaps, you mean the damper, which is the only variable control. The other two pedals are simple on-off switches.

I suggest reading the manual. This is configurable. Look for "damper mode" it can be configured as "continuous" or "switch".

@@feedback-loop yeah. I said damper. I don’t know why any piano player would want that. It’s easy enough to disable though, I guess. I was just complaining to myself... out loud

@@feedback-loop nah man. You misunderstand me. I have it disabled. I was just bitching about the whole concept being unwanted and unnecessary. Mainly because they or more likely to fail in their functionality as a simple switch.

Try calling Yamaha tech support. They are very helpful and sell parts for their instruments. Or, perhaps, you are very technical and want to build one yourself?

@@feedback-loop Hello dear, i would like to build a cable, do you have a pin number? thin connector --> Mouse connector pls.?

usa.yamaha.com/files/download/other_assets/2/322272/CLP260E.PDF

Hi ..How did you solve the problem?

@@roadguide123 Unfortunely, I could not solve the problem. As a last resort I contacted the only official Yamaha workshop here in Belgium (and in Europe). After a week of waiting and a diagnosis, it was a problem with a chipset on the motherboard. The way this chipset was soldered to the motherboard did not allow to replace it. Moreover, Yamaha no longer supplies parts for this type of piano (motherboard). I have since bought a new piano.

@@michelhost4826 thanks for replying…mine is a a year old clp 745..sometimes it works fine and sometimes it doesn’t

There are two contacts under each key to measure the delay between closing them and derive key velocity. One of them is not closing I suppose. Check the connections thoroughly. Carefully clean the conductive pads on the rubber strip as well. Maybe there is some corrosion from spilled drinks or something. I have another video repairing corrosion damaged keyboard: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/orh1ecWl1qrWaWQ.html

thank you.... i'll watch that

You are asking how do I know if the pot is working. I showed in the video how I tested it. The mechanism doesn't rotate it all the way, but in the range from about 1K to 9K. The pot was 10K logarithmic in my model. You need to make sure that the pot doesn't go open circuit in any spot of that range. Perhaps, the pot needs cleaning. Or, perhaps, it is worn out and needs to be replaced. It might be tricky to find a replacement of the same size and shape, and you need to do soldering. Are you asking about that little piece of flat cable with a connector matching the connector on the pedal board @2:24? This was just for convenience of testing, not essential. You may want to try calling Yamaha technical support. I had good experience before buying replacement keys from them. The problem might be that they can sell only the whole pedal assembly, which can be expensive. Or they might not have parts for an old model at all.

FeedbackLoop actually, I don't mind asking for the replacement. It's about 120 bucks. I wasn't even sure if that would solve my problem. I just finished testing using my newly acquired service manual and I confirmed there's an intermittent problem with the damper pedal (I'm not crazy thank god). Sostenuto and the other one tested fine. It has to be the por because it's not all that dirty. Do you think I could try disassembly (nothing to lose after all), and cleaning up ? Not sure if it can be removed.

FeedbackLoop BTW, Yamaha support sucks here in Chile. They rip you off and they don't solve your problem. So I'm on my own...

120 bucks for what? Replacement pedal assembly from Yamaha? You might try cleaning the pot with a contact cleaner (preferably with lubricant) if the pot has an opening in the housing (I don't remember this). Something like I showed here (that pot had an opening in the housing): kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rNKVeKadv9Ono6M.html If that doesn't help, you may wan to try taking it apart, but that, most probably, will require careful de-soldering.

FeedbackLoop aaaaah! Believe me. I will try :) !! Thanks to this video and the other one you pointed out to me. Most likely this weekend! Will try to buy all the stuff (cleaning liquid, soldering) maybe see if I can build a special cable like yours for testing and see if there's any difference. Anyway... I think I have a shot here. Thanks to you. Will let you know how it goes!

I have no idea about the pedals in CLP 840. What do you see? Some other arrangement for the damper (like a on-off switch or something)? If someone removed it, I would imagine that it must be obvious: a vacant place for it on the board and no mechanical link from the pedal to anything.

FeedbackLoop it looks exactly like the other pedal, it works exactly like the other pedal when I check the resistance with my meter, it looks like your pedal without the potentiometer. I suspect it is the cable because I measured the 2 ends of the cable and find a few are opened

Hey Thanh! It is glad to see your comments, and I really appreciate your help if you figured out the issue with the cable/meter, and I have CLP960, and it does not have the potentiometer on it, and the pedal does not work either. I am wondering did you solve your issue or how did you solve it? Thank you so much if you can provide any clue on how to fix this pedel without the meter. Thanks!

I found the issue, it was on the cable inside. It turns out the cable connector at another end inside had been suffering lots of strain that caused the cable connection to lose. I added a fixture to the connector and it fixed my issue. Thanks a lot for your comments!

No offense intended either, but a derogatory comment that manages to avoid getting to the point three times is worse than unhelpful, as well as painful to read, I’m afraid.

Hey man get a grip. Chill much?