You are welcome! Of course, no point in fixing the brakes when the future of the engine is uncertain... Although anything on that machine can be fixed and is worth fixing. It's only a matter of knowing which parts to order. Thanks!

@@FromSteelToWood There was a second factor in removing the brake...knowing the engine is going to be removed for extensive repair, I needed to make the back half mobile. That way it can go outside and free up the work area for this and other cold weather work. With the left rear locked in place that would make it much more difficult. There's no doubt about the value of the tractor, even if it takes a thousand dollars of parts and pieces.

You are welcome! Thanks!

Thanks! One day or the other, I will speak in my videos!!!

Don't worry about that just yet, the way you are presenting them now makes them easily understood too. You just do what you are comfortable doing.

You are welcomed! Glad it helped you!

Thanks!

Thanks Mike! This video was one complicated to make. The lights were hard to set, the camera was always in my way, and I was working between the transmission, the fender and the camera!!! The Case gets good maintenance, but it gets some hard work too!

The hard work won't bother it with the care it gets that's for sure...

That is right! That is a machine that can run for so long without a maintenance!

I would be glad to do so. I am fairly new to KZfaq and it is just a begining. Do you have a Case? If I am courageous enough, I may split my tractor this summer, to change the crank shaft oïl seal. I may upload a video on routine maintenance on distributor, points, etc. There is the linkage of the hydraulic levers that I should overhaul. There is a tremedous loose in it. So to say, there is many more videos to come! Thanks for watching!

Hello Lee Brown. You might be interested to take a look at my channel. I just published a series of 10+ videos on maintenance of the Case 430 tractor.

I am in the same boat as Lee Brown, and I am pretty sure I have the same tractor (the label was long since painted over before I bought it). Thanks a million for these videos.

Pat, I did that job like 4 years ago. The oil seal and bearing are not too complicated to replace. You just need time and patience. And I would suggest you buy 3 oil seals. One for a possible mistake. Here is a link to Yesterday's Tractors. If you don't know this website, this is your place to find such info. Here is a good link (www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=case&th=143595). There is three specific things I remember from this job. 1- Take out all the floor boards out for best working access. Get new bolts, they most likely will be rusty. 2- The plate where the oil seal is located, this plate is held in place mainly with the outer cover bolts PLUS one Phillips countersunk 3/8'' bolt. This is the last one retaining the plate at this point. This one could be hard to remove because of rust on the head and because it is taper. But the thread should be fine. Don't hesitate to drill the head if not possible to unscrew it. Then when you remove the plate, you get access to the bearing. This is a taper roller bearing. Now the shaft is pretty much loose on one end. If you do both sides at the same time, the whole differential gear is loose in the casing. Not ideal! 3- You have to assemble the plate and bearing, then after the seal. The seal has to slide over the splines. This is the tricky part. You may use some electrical tape or the like to protect the seal from the splines. If you don't have the shop manual, send me an E-mail, I could send you a scan of the specific pages. You will get a better view of the parts beneath the plate. You need to go in the "about" section of my channel to get my E-mail address.

Thanks Franks! Here is a link to the set I bought from PrincessAuto in Canada. I put an alternate link if you live in USA for Harbor Freight. BUT, I must say I had to take the straight one (pick) and curve it's very end. Actually, it happened accidently in an other job so I kept is as it! The bent part need not to be long. A 1/8'' bend is enough. Pick and Hook Set www.princessauto.com/en/detail/4-pc-pick-and-hook-set/A-p8572703e www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

Thank you Joe.

Hello, I used to get parts from the Case dealership. In the last 20 years, it went from a normal part to get over the counter, to the point it was a special order. So I decided to go with Steiner Tractor. I've ordered a few times there. Then I got another place where I can get the parts. It's Elmer's Repair. See the link below. www.elmersrepair.com/categories/case/parts-by-model/case-100-30-series/430.html?sort=featured&page=3 Hopefully, it helps!

Sorry for the late answer, I was out for businness and could not reply sooner. No, there is no gasket. Actually, there is a vent/drain hole at the bottom. The oil seal is beneath the splined shaft. The only thing I did in the past is to put some gasket maker on the top portion to avoid any rain water coming into the housing.

Been there before! I had a bad seal and the pads were soaked with oil. Not a big deal replacing the pads and getting a new seal. Do you know SteinerTractor.com? They will sell new pads. If you need more help, don't hesitate to write to joe.lesage@hotmail.com (make sure to copy the whole link).

To the best of my knowledge, it's a 1/2 - 20 (UNF) bolt. But it might also be possible on this side of the tractor that it was a stud. Then if it was a stud, the nut was 1/2 - 13 (UNC). Both sides (left and right) were not the same I think. I could not see any good reason for a stud, except to help installing the heavy casting. I hope it can help you! Let me know. (joe.lesage@hotmail.com)

@@FromSteelToWood mine have a Hex socket head on the bolt.

Now that you say that, it reminds me that. I might have replaced them by a regular bolt in the past. But yet, the same threads.

@@FromSteelToWood thanks Joe, email sent.

Salut, merci de visionner mes vidéos. Je suis dans les Cantons de l'Est, près de Bromont. Avant que je répare mes brakes, c'était comme toi, ça brakait pas fort. J'étais rendu sur les rivets, et un peu d'huile par-dessus tout ça. Des nouveaux pads et oil seal plus tard, ça va super bien!

Belle pente de ski!!!.. lorsque j`étais au étude, j`y suis allé souvent (Denturologie Longueuil il y a 25 ans)...Cet été je doit remplacer les 2 oil seal( inner outer) de roues arrières( 4 oil seals..je suis chanceux j`ai le shop manuel de 1956...on le voit tout en morceaux section par section avec no de pièce à côté de chaque pièce!!!! Connait-tu Yesterdaystracteur.com..( U.S.A) .full pièce et manuel pour plusieur tracteur ! Bien pratique! Beubye!

Bien sûr je connais. Des fois il est possible d'avoir le shop manual sur internet (ex. EBay). C'est ce que j'ai fait. Mais c'est quand même très sommaire comme information. Juste le minimum!

Salut Richard. Je ne sais pas si tu es passé sur mon channel dernièrement. Si ça peut t'intéresser, je viens de mettre en ligne une série de vidéos de maintenance sur le Case 430.