It's my pleasure

Glad to hear it!

@@gjbmunc oh, if we're discussing ways to improve sound - I have noticed that you sometimes accidentally tap your mic with whatever you're holding. You might want to consider getting a foam cover for it, or moving it a few inches up or to the side.

Thanks!

It's my pleasure

Me too!

Glad you like them!

Glad you enjoyed it

Same here . Since I switch to Ashley Iles, I love it now.

Great point!

Good luck!

Thank you. I teach regularly at my own shop (see my website) and big schools around the country.

@@gjbmunc please visit the UK :)

Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks!

You're very welcome!

You're very welcome

Muchas gracias.

You're welcome!

You're welcome!

Trim the proud side/end and fill the gap.

Try eBay and do a Google search. There are also quite a few old tool dealers on line.

Welcome 👍

Absolutely, especially if you use a mortising boring jig with a sleeve matching the size mortise chisel and matching tenon.

A simple trick that often works is - providing the profile of the iron still matches the profile of the sole of the plane - simply to sharpen the BACK of the iron. The cutting edge after all is simply where the two sides of the iron intersect. (This is partly why a,s I mentioned in the episode, why the back of the mortise chisel I used was no longer completely vertical!)

It turned out the mortising section was too long so I interposed it between Part One and Part Two of the window-making episode. Next week you'll see the simple jig that is used after mortising to remove the moulded section.

Thanks!

Thanks again!

We also call it a "pig sticker" here in the US.

@@timothymallon Yes, I wonder if we also have a more "colorful" name for it 😅

I'm not typically one to give my tools names, but I really like "hole biter" so I might just use that!😃

@@jimhyslop Yes, it sounds like something out of Lord of the Rings 😄

if the board is 6 squared by a machine check from one face, then reference the other, the nails on the gauge will fall in the same hole. If you're doing a fully traditional style where you only have one reference face and one reference edge you need to measure the edge and find center, measure your chisel and find center on it also, then place the center of the chisel on the center of the edge of the piece and lightly tap it to establish a mortise width, then set the guage to the width of the line you made into the wood. You can also measure the width of the edge of the wood and divide that number by 3 to give you the ideal width of the mortise then set your mortise gauge by placing a ruler to the mortise gauge reference face and measuring to the first nail. You set the width of the mortise gauge first in most cases and then set the length of the gauge. To give a simple example I measure a board edge that is 6" wide. I divide that number by 3 which is 2. 2,4,6.- I place a line on the 2" spot and the 4" spot, this places the ideal mortise width on the piece, I match a mortise chisel close to this width then set my gauge accordingly. If my chisel is smaller than the width of the ideal mortise I simply try to find center by eye or if you are really particular you can measure the distance to find center. Once a gauge is set all references must be made by your established edge and face, If you're machining your wood then there's a lot more wiggle room but hand tools require the same reference face and reference edge to ensure accuracy. Also if you are slightly off one side or the other with the mortise hole the piece will be slightly off center when assembled- most cases the now assembled piece can be planed to a new thickness to accommodate both pieces. Hand tool work is a lot of correcting what's there, a machinist woodworker can't make many mistakes with his accuracy but a hand-tool woodworker has a lot more freedom to correct their errors and finish the piece. Remember the best furniture was made in a time people used wooden reference squares and sighted "flat" by eye. There was none of these machinist straight edges and fancy tools for your average carpenter 400 years ago and they still created brilliant pieces. Hope this helped, I do this stuff for a living so I like to share when I can.

Gabriel, thank you for your explanation, and of course your system works in many cases, but apart from the fact that the mortise (and tenon) are not always required exactly in the center of the workpiece, I find it generally easier to cut the tenon first and then use it to lay out and position the mortise by laying one on top of the other laterally and transversely. That way I don't have to actually bother with measurements.

Stand straight , let your arm hang down and your palm held horizontally should rest on the bench top. This is generally considerd ther best height for planing.

It's a four-fold, two foot rule by Stanley (from a long time ago)

Most of the time I do indeed start by cutting the tenon in order to use the tenone to mark out where the mortise will go.

Never heard it myself.

As I mentioned, it's mainly a question of size.

Ashley Isles make all sorts of chisels. I have a set of their bevelled chisels, they're great. I got them as a gift, they're not really worth the extra outlay if I'm honest, but they look and feel nice! I don't have any mortice chisels, but I may get some now just to see the difference. I'm off to ebay!

Mortise first and make the tenon to fit the mortise.

Whatever works (in different situations), but I usually find it easier to make the tenon first and then use it to define the mortise.

As I go along.

You can still purchase them new and can find them second hand as well. Not that uncommon. I have three old ones of different styles, mainly because they are beautiful looking and feeling.

Totally agree!

You are correct: excavating the mortise can easily damage the ends ( not the edges, as you mentioned), which is why I stressed not chiseling up the ends until the correct depth has been reached, that way any damage as you pry out the waste does not impact the very ends.