wow thanks

He is one. Ever wondered why he wears all the UTI apparel?

@@OneWayWillie oh one way, not this again.

To him street/strip is not a thing 😂 I agree tho

I have to say you are the best I've seen as far as explaining what you are talking about. Youve helped me tremendously to back up slow down and get more of an idea of where I should've started at. Lol I didn't quite have the flames on the cam box yet but I was going in that direction and you asked what do your heads flow? I had to regroup at that point and think a little more and now I at least have info to draw from. I'm doing a sbc 400 in a 1988 ranger n it's gonna be interesting for sure. Thanks so much. Todd

That is awesome!

What school?

@@noahbfromthe9136 UTI in az

@@Myvintageiron7512 My apologies for using someone elses thread, but I wanted to tag you to make sure you got the notification. I'm about to rebuild the 350 in my '93 GMC Sierra K1500. Very similar to this rebuild except I will using Comp Cams' XE256H flat tappet (~.450 lift, 112LSA). New Vortec heads from Clearwater and my TBI Vortec manifold from Summit should be here in Feb. I had to remove the old intake manifold to get to the top two bolts on the trans bellhousing so I could pull the engine. So I will have to install everything from the intake forward with the new engine in the truck. There is not much space in the distributor area because of the firewall and I'm not sure I will be able to put a drill on an oil priming tool and run it back there. My question is: will I be able to finish the rebuild (intake install forward) with the motor in the truck? Any pointers or things to watch out for? (I know I will need to cover up intake ports and the top of the engine in general to make sure nothing gets in there.)

@@Myvintageiron7512 ... ....... ........... ... ... . .. . . .. .

I’m guessing the other brand is lunati

What the hell is a 390 fe? Big block Ford ?

I worked as an industrial mechanic for about 8 years in my youth. The number of people I worked with who had missing digits was way too high.

your very welcome I hope it's helping

back then all the oil had high ZDDP in it it was pretty hard to screw it up

Nothing wrong with that! Gotta start somewhere

I work on diesel generators and marine diesel engines. In the Bahamas and other places, I put together Frankenstein engines and generators, assembled voltage regulators from electronics scavenged from a dump. And gotten "dead" engines to come back to life by using methods that would really freak out the people that designed those engines. I have used and reconditioned parts that would have been thrown out if other parts were available. Most mechanics in the U.S, don't have the opportunity to improvise and solve real world problems with what happens to be available. This type of problem solving is the best possible training.

been there

Glad to hear this THX!!

U don’t retorque intakes with silicone ends because when the silicone is cured and you retorque it you’ll crack the silicone.

Well, yeah. On small block chevy the China wall gaskets are always trash and leak so we just use silicone. So yeah with sbc don't do a hot re-torque on the intake, but in general, he's right.

Do you mean 2 thou less valve clearance?

You only do that if you want the torque wrench to stay calibrated. Otherwise it is a waste of time.

You are 100% right. That's what a professional does.

@@daleeasternbrat816 So why would you not want it to stay calibrated?

@@camcamslim just a tongue in ckeek comment. I have been keeping my clickers like that since I was a kid.

And make sure you turn them to 'OFF' before putting them away.

High volume (not to be confused with high pressure) oil pumps usually take care of that just fine.

THX

nope just install them like they are they will be fine

Jason Joncas I was thinking the same thing .

I destroyed a timing light with a shrouded fan LOL I do like the electric fan idea.

If I were there I'd paint the fan tips yellow or white so they show up better. I'm an aircraft mechanic. An electric fan is the best bet.

yes he pro but please go electric fan save your hands for future pro engine builds

Uncle Tony’s Garage is a pretty good channel! I enjoy his content

So I’m nobody and have no experience, now that we got that out of the way just some advice, be careful with the silicone, their is such a thing as to much and if by chance some of that that oozes our can come loose on the inside of the engine it can be catastrophic to said engine, just keep that in mind if anything I would rather have it come to the outside of the engine then to the inside. But yes your idea makes a clean appearing build that looks more professional, again just my 2 cents.

Thanks

just use the correct oil and don't let it idle for the first 20 min watch your timing no more than 20 degrees at 2000 it will be fine ford small blocks are very stout engines they make great power with good heads and cam

@@Myvintageiron7512 Thank you ...your videos have been an inspiration ..my 66 is going to have a nice balance of power (about 310 when done) and handling ...But watching your videos makes me want to BUILD an engine from scratch !!! Thanks again and keep the data flowing

I pretty much always use diesel oil and ive never had an issue. More dinosaur bones haha

You may want to call the manufacturer of said diesel oil and ask about zinc, you will probably be suprised that diesel oil is generally low zinc.

@@jesselarson2570 Check ppm of regular oil, diesel, and manufacture break in oil. I think you will be surprised at similar additives and ppm . Diesel oil I looked up had 1100 ppm. 1000 to 1400 ppm is considered high zinc. Don't stop at 1 or 2 brands ; do several so you will have a larger group so you can see that typically diesel and break in are high in damn near every additive.im not saying you are wrong but here in southern US that seems to be.

Diesel oil is for diesel engines. And the zinc has been reduced in that as well since modern diesel trucks have catalytic converters now. Just use a zinc additive in high quality gasoline engine oil.

As per royal purple, they said to use break in oil 1000 miles.

Yes change the oil right after 20 minute break in but put fresh break in oil back in for the first 500 miles then change it again using the same break in oil go another 500 miles and change to high zinc detergent based oil keep in mind there is always metel in the pan on a new engine use a magnetic drain plug and you will see it don't panic all new engines do this I had a customer with a new ZO6 and he was in a panic because his vette had metal on the magnet drain plug it's going to happen on any new engine for the first few thousand miles even with a roller cam

You need a new cam and lifters

Thank you, not what I hoped to hear but fair advice given you knowledge. Any recommendations on cam for a stock 305 that could use an upgrade in torque? Not a daily driver, chevy K10.

Comp lifters!!

@@kevinshiley9061 just for everyone's info I did use them in my figure 8 car. Broke it in right and beat the hell out of it and no problems.

15-40 is Synthetic mix. NEVER break in a new engine with synthetic oil. If you replace the lifter try some Isky lube and break in oil. Break it in like you're doing a new cam. 20 minutes at 2000 rpm. Bad Penn straight 30wt break in!

@stardroppercj Flat tappet cams are not broke in with synthetics. They don't have the zinc to protect the cam and lifters during the mating.

@stardroppercj First of all, idiot. I've been building engines for 35 years. Flat tappet cams have a complely different requirement than roller cams, which have no requirements for specialized zinc packages which DON'T come in synthetics. You have no real world experience obviously.

@stardroppercj Bradd Penn is the only one with ZDDP and Zinc requirements. LOL to open a comment says everything. I'm a pilot by trade, but besides working with muscle car engines I've built many radial and v12s. I have seen many new flat tappet cams fail without the use of specialized oils like Penn Grade break in oil. That wasn't the case 25 years ago. I called what fits. You spouted stuoidity and you're full of crap.

P.S. No one uses that in the states.

Thanks

No ! Never. They have to be broken into a specific motor to pick up the nuances, irregularities of their new home, otherwise you would be breaking them in twice one to the manufacture home if you will, then into there new home your engine. They could be just as apt, or greater possibility of failure because of small nuances of wear patterns. Lifters always go back to specific bores of specific cam lobe, of a cam, and specific engine of initial break in, if you don't you are asking for trouble. Lifters of flat tappets cammed engines have to rotate, they have crowns on there bottoms, and have friction because of machine process, that comes in contact with a dihedral friction surface of cam lobe, and stack tolerances in bores, lifters, and lobe surface half to break in together because of spacel location.

Well said bear

i hope u see this!! i just bought a cam .501 lift and 280 lbs springs from summit .. can i break the cam in with those springs???? 305 sbc... please dont laugh

have you ever broken in a cam with 280 lbs springs???? just got a cam from summit

Summit use to have the Delphi lifters in there kits Not Now

we have not seen any problems with Ford lifters so far it has only been the SBC and we do quite a few Ford engines

Most of us don't rebuild engine , we have them machines by a shop, and use the same rings pistons rods, and lifters by who knows who they have their own suppliers . Some don't fire them ,I think they just hand rotate, an I wrong or right,also I didn't hear filling the oil filter prior to installation, please comment

can I get an Amen??

@@edwardalamo2507 thats because u dont have to fill the oil filter ive seen guys do that but its not necessary

Swear to Christ I came down to the comments to say that haha

If he was my neighbor i would be broke🤣🤣

Hydraulic?

There is no reason flat tappets can't be used with good success, We do it daily, you just half to do it correctly, I am huge fan of roller cams they are better than flat tappets in every way and I always use them exclusively in my own stuff, but again when you tell people your looking at and extra $800 to $1000 to go roller they have a hard time swallowing that. I always give the roller option but I can tell you that 80% of customers take the flat tappet option

@@Myvintageiron7512 More specific question. I'm running a flat tappet cam but went with roller rockers. Should cam break in change at all as opposed to normal rockers?

all I got from this was push rod length can't change then ¬.^

I agree with hyd lifters I have seen quite a few if them adjusted too tight I like to get em to zero lash and add i/2 turn a full turn is too much

the point of cam and lifter contact is the highest pressure point in an engine so good luck

Even. Rollers had an have issues. Many LS rollers have failed simply because they ramp up so quickly causing lobe wear & lifter breakage. The more radical they are the more the potential for the issue increases.

I'm with you I prefer rollers However many people do not have them in their budget your looking at $1000 to upgrade an early small block to a good roller cam The fact is on these engines the flat tappet is still by far the most common cam type used

@@Myvintageiron7512 Quick question sir I've been a fan of Crane Cams for many years what's your opinion on them?? Haven't built a small block Chevy in a while and wonder how the flat tappet hydraulic cams are holding up..thanks

@@danielmccoy8875 Crane cams work well I've used them with good results

@@Myvintageiron7512 Does it make any difference when using roller rockers?

Is that made by Wolf Cola?

also use good high zinc break in oil and dont let it idle for first 20 minutes 2000 RPM

This is Crazy....would be better if someone just named the shity lifters to save others from wasting our hard earned money......