One of the most likable dudes anywhere. Appreciate all of the knowledge you have published.

“Gunna lose the shop” 😂

I've always said My Vintage Iron and Uncle Tony's Garage are hands down the 2 best channels for learning about building engines. Best teachers on youtube.

I love this guy’s attention to detail. With the focus on being a tutorial and no drama . Keep up the great videos. 😎👍

Man, I’ve never worked on anything past top end and just bought my first V8 car, an 82 Monte with the pig slow 4.4L 267. Watching your videos has given me almost enough confidence to do a swap. Awesome knowledge and you know how to convey it like a classic shop teacher. Thanks!

Your video’s are the absolutely the best, most concise on the internet . I have been watching for a long time. My knowledge was good, but watching all the important details you cover in depth, has brought my knowledge and confidence to another level. THANKS YOU FOR SHARING YOUR EXPERTISE 🤙🏻🤙🏻

So spot-on with those hot-rod shows, that are just that: “shows.” Quick, flashy entertainment for people with short attention spans who like saying “cool” a lot. And these shows are nothing but advertisements for parts manufacturers. Which is why channels like this, and Vice Grip, and Uncle Tony, are EDUCATIONAL, taught by people who really want to share their expertise, to help people.

I’m happy seeing you still working on these great engine’s that’s awesome never gets old. I love the small block Chevy and big block.i mean I love the LS too but these engines are great and feels so much nostalgic Thanks for the video you are doing a great job.

Nice installment. I'm sure it's helping a ton of people, because they are just too afraid to ask, not wanting to appear dumb. Don't be like that, guys. If someone older is around you, ask him, especially if it's going to destroy your motor!

Absolutely amazing video I just talk to a friend for 2 hrs about your video and he is building a old-school flat tapping sold cam and he is now watching your video to see if he will switch to roller. 🖖🙏

Great stuff brother Truly the best engine channel on KZfaq!

Great video! I usually don't watch the long videos. But this one really caught my eye! Thank you! 💥🇺🇸💥🇺🇸💥🇺🇸

Thank you for explaining the end play on the cam good information and including the cover gasket

Awesome video! Your videos make more sense and are easier to understand than any others

Glad you’re making videos again and glad you didn’t lose the shop

Really truly enjoyed this content!, top notch and in depth from a true pro! Please continue with these types of videos.

My factory stock '69 350 2bbl was book rated for 250hp. I believe it was there, it was a good runner and pushed the Chevelle with authority, despite the little 2bbl.

WD 40 was not designed to wash parts, It was designed to prevent ICBM missiles from corroding in the silos, they would spray them down once a week or so, and no Corrosion, and while doing so they noticed its ability to penetrate nut and bolt threads, so off to the market they went with their penetrating fluid the only reason you have wd-40 today!

Great video! Thanks for posting. I gotta change my 2 barrel fe390 to a 4. I'll check your videos out on the 390 again...

I used to struggle to get the power I wanted from a 350. Then I built a 400. Didn't take but a couple miles to realize trying to get power out of a 350 is like running in the mud. A 400 is where it's at.

I could watch your builds all day

yhank you for the information made a lot of sense it seam so many wont tell you anything

You could give a pair of 32V aftermarket heads a try, there are some nice 32V head conversions around

Excellent as always. Thank you.

Man I love the way you teach. You have a great voice and you’re a natural teacher! I do have a question. I watched a previous video of yours where you did a budget build. What would be the price difference of doing this high performance version?

Lots of good take away knowledge as always.

I liked the timing cover recommendation. However, few engine builders explain how to get the right length pushrods and why. This is missing from this video. Here's what was not said. At 50% cam lift, the rocker arms should be level. There is a moroso pushrod length checking tool that slides over the rocker stud, and has a flat side to it. After setting the cam lobe to 50% lift using a dial indicator, you rest the tool on the valve, and use an adjustable pushrod to make contact with the same flat side of the tool. Take out the adjustable pushrod, and measure its length. Then, order some pushrods. Now, your valvetrain geometry is correct. You can ignore this if you want egg shaped pushrod ends with eccentric wear pockets in your rockers.......if that is your wish. The more radical the cam, the more you need to do this. Higher lift cams require this level of attention. Stock cams are already set up with the right length pushrods.....most of the time.

I wish I had friends with skills like you have

Thank You for you expertise!!!

Glad you was able to save the shop that was close...lol

One of my favorite engines

This guy loves building engines. Does it right.

Thank you for another great video and because it’s amateur hour over here, 😂 I’m curious if you are using a cam that is just a little more than bone stock such as the one pulled out in the video, can you still use the stock pushrods or does that automatically change the rod length?

just bought a 434 sbc for my s10 , has a hyd roller cam with solid roller lifters and made 600hp n will rev to 7200 and be happy

You can do exactly the way you adjusted the valve lash and follow the firing order even on solid rollers, just do the intake valve on #1 next valve to adjust is #8 intake, but adjust intake valve just when exhaust start to open, adjust exhaust valve just as intake starts to close...like you say then just follow the firing ouder 18436572 then start on the exhaust 18436572 2 rotations of the crank and you are done. When adjusting solid rollers it gives you a perfect tune. To me it makes more sense to move your tools to a new cylinder than to rotate the crank 50 revolutions just to do a simple valve adjustment.

Nice build, That 292 cam should sound wicked. What thickness head gasket did you use? Thanks

I like the lines on this one.

Hello,great information

Excellent video 📹 👏

You can't help but love this guy hahaha

I have an SBC. A 350 Vortec to be exact, but I think my question is pertinent to all intake manifolds. Does using a carburetor gasket, or spacer with one large hole, negate the use of a dual plane intake? Thanks?

Hi Vintage 7512, My last 70 Impala 350/2bbl, 250HP had 441 castings on the heads (with 194/150 valves, I do not know the chamber volume).. I recently got another 70 Impala 4DSD, 350/2bbl, 250HP (mint 31K actual non rolled over miles, original shiny paint and original interior etc...). I just got an original set of duals, made by Waldrons (the company that does the exhaust for Jay Lenos Garage), the factory single exhaust had pin holes in the exhaust. I was surprised the factory duals (with the resonators) are almost silent. The 4bbl 350 Impalas were 350/300HP. I assume there was more than just the 4bbl carb and the duals to make up the additional 50HP. I am thinking a cam and maybe better heads. I want to send the original heads that are on the current original motor out to have them cleaned up (so they are good with unleaded fuel) and tweaked up a little (port matched, Flowed, new valve guides, seals, etc.... I want a period correct early Chevy 350 Hydraulic cam. I want it to be like a 70 Impala SS that was never made, nice factory cam maybe a Camaro 350/350 hydraulic cam, I actually have a Winters Foundry "Snow Flake" original LT-1 intake. I was thinking a Holley 600-650 w/vacuum secondary's original dual snorkel air cleaner and a set of LT-1 valve covers (just for looks). I have been in touch with Eaton Detroit, they gave me the original Police Package (F-41) Spring information. I will also add new Sway Bars and shocks, please keep this dialog going, Thank you, Cliff

Looking frwd to seeing the results.

Glad you stuck with the flat tops, wouldn't that cam have really lowered dynamic compression with the dished? I have a .060 over 350, 14cc dished .035 below deck, .015 shim, 64 cc Dart iron heads, 218/224, .460/.480 cam. Changing to 7cc flat tops, .015 below deck, .025 gasket, 70cc Dart iron heads, 231/235, .480/.488 cam. Static Compression according to Wallace Racing calculator went from 9.3 to 9.7, But Dynamic stayed the same at about 8.1:1 with good quench at .040. Seems harder to come up with a good combo when your trying to reuse parts instead of starting from scratch.

I can only imagine the amount of time you spent setting up shots and editing this.

Probably a dumb question but can you just a regular hydraulic cam one-up one-down like you did on the roller roller cam? P/s appreciate your knowledge p and enjoyed your S10 build

Great channel! Building a 383 stroker with 64cc aluminum heads numbers came out to 10.18 to 1 gonna run pump gas do you think that will work worried about too much compression thanks!!

last year i picked up 4 4 inch stroke 454 putting out 450 hp with a 02xx 400r turbo behind them with 6,000 to 58,000 miles on them all running perfect they come with steel crank heavy rods high flow heads all they really need is to breath put a 850 with weiland high rise for street it really came alive has a good cam stock good sound to it . i put in a 68 chevy pu works good for the street i made it look stock like if the factory put it in it put a serpentine belt off a 94 454 4 row radiator that came with the engine and twin electric fans pushers with flex fan could not use the clutch fan no room for it the fan is a 1/2 inch from the pullies 1 inch from the radiator but the fan shroud covers it use a fan shroud out of a 90 Buick fit perfect then put the 94 valve covers just polished them up painted the intake same as block which is same as paint on the rig powder blue then i put a street scoop just to be fancy all wiring in looms blue color use blue aluminum spark plug wire holders blue header wrap polished heat shield for starter . so far i only have 1400 in the build counting buying the rig still have the 327 and 400 turbo that was in it both work good lots of after market parts on the engine have lots of left over parts about another truck all rust free parts cab that was a air condition cab in mint condition . so i could even make money on the build i have a bunch of people wanting to buy the parts even got new kicker panels cab corners floor pan i got for free new in the box . next project is a 79 z28 rs t top all ready have most of the parts plus 2 hard tops all for free . i am the budget build king

Should I be concerned about the rocker stud protruding down and into the roof of the intake runners on my new heads? Afr sbc 195 comp head

Awesome explanation of the effect of compression and octane. Can't wait for the dyno results, my guess 486 hp at 5600 and 455 tq at 4100. Great video.

Great content! Are you doing this video at work?

Why would you use the Edelbrock etec when you can get a set of CNC afr 195 for 1-150 less? Edelbrock makes the afr castings. Just the lighter weight valves alone kind of make it a no brainer to use the afr, or trickflow CNC 185-195 heads. They can do the vortec intake bolt pattern on the 195 eliminator for a minimal upcharge. Unless you are an Edelbrock dealer and can get them way cheaper than retail it just doesn't make sense. You get so much more for 150-200 difference in price.

Great info!

If you have aftermarket alloy heads, than if you run a 9.6:1 compression you can get away with running 87 octane (91 in places like Australia and Britain where they use the RON system as opposed to MON) any more is just asking for trouble. If you're going for an aftermarket block though, you may as well go for the Chevy 400 bore size variant, unless you are restricted for size say in class racing etc.. You can get them with the 400 bore size but with the 350 main bearing size as most aftermarket cranks are in the 350 crank bearing size, and the benefit is you get reduced friction with a smaller journal size anyway. Nice to build a 427 size smallblock

Is this process goes same with stock 350 Tbi with roller lifters ( I mean valve adjustment)?? Thanks

Nice as always 👍

PLEASE HELP me. Im building a 355 sbc (dirt track car) I can have a 500 lift max on the cam, what's a good cam for this engine HAS to be flat tappet cam. the heads I'm looking at flow 210 cfm at 500 and 138on the ex at 500 cfm

Hey man, No need to replace the pistons man, just use E-85. My car 🚙 is Flex Fuel ⛽, I am running 🏃 11 to 1 compression ratio. Which is No problem for the 104 octane of the E-85 Fuel ⛽. Burns 🔥 cleaner and makes more Power. Also saving the Environment. Just put the flat top pistons back In.

I have a 350 with 041 heads in my 86 silverado and it runs decent...... my question is would vortec heads make it run any better? I don't know anymore about the engine, it was in the truck when I bought it.

I’m not trying to correct you, but the backstory behind WD-40 is interesting, but it was invited to keep the fuel lines from rusting and corroding on the Intercontinental Ballistic Atlas Missile. They would put brand new lines on these missiles before launching them, before the missile ever made it to its ceiling the lines would corrode and fail. You are 100% correct about what it stands for. WD stands for Water Displacement and the 40 is because it took the chemist 40 attempts to get the chemical right.

Here is a point of curiosity. Which compression ratio is more critical, static or dynamic?

Just a thought maybe have the crank balanced differently just my opinion I like the wood cam lifter bin u made

I'm a carpenter n my hammer is the magic wand lol

Do you still give classes? Your instructional videos are great.

What is your base/mech ignition timing with the kit installed?

Just got a set of Howards hydraulic roller lifters. I'm reading conflicting info as to whether or not to pre-soak the lifters before install and adjusting. What's you opinion? Frankly, you are one of the few guys I trust out here in cyber space. Thanks for all you offer to us rookies!

So I have a plain 350 Roller cam block. My block is a one piece roller cam block(pre 1996 vortec) I got these heads on a 350 that had a starter boss broken, numbers on the deck show it was a 1990 IROC 350 engine. But who knows. With these heads. 14101083: 350ci. Originally came on crate engines with 285 hp or 300 hp. 64cc chambers, If you are lucky these casting number heads are the same. 14096217. Not a great head but better than some tbi or smog heads. These heads are cast iron versions of L98 tpi alluminum heads on the 90 corvette. So 350 with short block, stock pistons, 64 cc chamber heads(milled to clean them up) I get a great 9.7:1 compression. And I run a 96-99 vortec hydraulic roller cam with stock type roller lifters. Custom made chip for my tbi(yes tbi) ecm. It runs great on 87 octane. It’s moves the 4400 pound 92 silverado great. And because money is tight I’m going to uses these heads on another rebuilt stock bore small block. I got 100,000 trouble free miles from this rebuilt short block but have developed blow by since. So I’m gonna do it again, and hope for another 100k miles with 17mpg like this engine. So if anyone finds these heads i mentioned above. I rebuilt these with some better components, better valve springs, retainers and locks. I broke in with plain oil, and ran orielly and Walmart full synthetic oil and wix filters. I beat on this truck daily, it’s a great, less expensive alternative for big money rebuilds. But I think this kind of basic short block and maybe some dart 180 or even the basic dart replacement or summit heads would be an improvement. I have talked to some custom cam companies about a custom hydraulic roller and a hydraulic roller is a added expense that I think is worth it. With zinc oil at $9 a quart, and store brand oil at $6-$7 a quart or plain oil even cheaper it’s just easier not to have to buy zinc oil for a flat tappet cam. If you are lucky enough to have a roller cam block it’s easier.

I understand the "were gonna lose the shop" is a jest but, what is the reference? I love my sbcs.

Hey would you consider selling those single valve relief pistons??

Fantastic instructor! Curious what length was your push rods?

I am surprised that you didn't drill and tap the center bolts like you did on prior builds. I would have done it with the engine apart. 6 bolts on the intake is certainly better than the 4 that GM did....

Good Videos. Can you talk about dynamic compression ratio. Thanks.

In regards to your initial comment about "take any old engine, slap heads/cam/intake on". My question is, in your opinion, STRICTLY SPEAKING SHORTBLOCKS (not including cam or any other valvetrain, as that would be unfair), what has been the biggest technological change when comparing a SBC shortblock to an LS shortblock ? Obviously Rings are better today, bearings might be as well, but does the improved 'Metallurgy' affect the cylinders/blocks themselves ? Let's say we go to the junkyard and pull a 100k mile 350 SBC and a 100k mile Iron block LS. More than likely the LS motor will still have healthy cylinders, bearings in good shape and really only need a cleanup, possibly a 'dingleball hone' (re-using it's current rings/bearings even) and finished with AFTERMARKET heads/cam/intake to make series power, like everyone is currently doing. The SBC will likely have enough blowby to sink a ship and be in far worse condition, even at the same mileage/usage as the LS and would require more of a refresh before final assembly. Has the quality of Bearings and Rings increased alone ? or is the finish of the bores better today ? Better metal in the castings ? Better (non-synthetic) oil ? I hope this gibberish makes sense. Great content as always.

Can you adjust valve lash/lifter preload as you do in this video on ALL flat tappet & hydraulic rollers ? Or is this method exclusive to hydraulic rollers with say .500 + lift? Or is it only for hydraulic rollers with massive lift? Trying to figure out which method is best for my application. Thank you again in advance

would it be possible to include the ungrades you made. i am fixing to put a 350 in our 1991 camaro and will be making it old school like my first car i did with a 350 4 bolt main. i had a 3/5 cam, stock heads, eldibrock intake and 750 holly double pump. it was making very nice power for me in 1977 with my camaro. But this time like i said i will be repeating what i did in 1977 with our 1991 camaro. i would like to do the exact same thing this time with the way you built the top end of this motor. thanks for this video. please let us know the cam, heads/values, rockers, push rods intake and carb.

When you are talking about the cam bearings in the dart block at time 16.56 in the video. The roller cam dart block has the holes drilled for the factory hydraulic roller cam retainer plate. Can you use the factory retainer plate, stepped style cam, and not have to use a cam button?

No locking tab on the 3 cam bolts?

I need your help on a budget roller cam on a stock 327 help

Thanks

Do you have a parts list I want to do that to my 93 Chevy

All I need is a magic pushrod?!?! Got the parts number? Thanks!

Just about to upgrade the top end of my stock 350/290 deluxe. I’m curious as to why you never mention checking piston to valve clearance? Is it only necessary when running cams with .550 or higher lift ? The inter webs got me scared to just slap an aftermarket set of heads on a stock 350 without doing so. Thanks in advance !!

Where is your shop, I need an engine build?

I adjust hydrolic lifters alot different and get gains , dyno proven .

Can you use a later model step nose cam? It looks like it has bolt holes for a thrust plate.

I have a stock 1996 Chevy Silverado with a 5.7 Vortec with roller lifters. I had a problem with one of my lifters causing some other damage too, getting ready to put it all back together when I get the heads back soon. first question is- do I, do the valve adjustment like you did with my stock type lifters, like you did with those performance rollers that you put in? Question two I’m looking for a reliable pushrods, rocker arms, And lifters, what brand do you recommend for a stock application on a 5.7 Vortec, i’m thinking comp cam?

Great job as usual I like all your videos. Glad to see that you are posting new things. Did you get a new shop?

Hey man Do you think a built 4l60e would hold up in a 383 ? If not , what auto transmission would you recommend ?

The heads I want to buy say they are for a flat tappet cam. If I put a roller cam in the engine do I need to change anyting

what's the part number for the intake studs

i had a 305 turd in my bird........i watched this guy(and a few others like uncle tony,dd speed shop etc ) after that i added vortec heads(i did my own valve lapping,new valve seals,new beehive springs and retainers) and matching edlebrock intake,holley carb, new flat tappet lumpy cam,headers etc......i never did anything like this before........night and day brother and i did it all in 2-3 days while the engine was in the car...i drive it every nice day and i love it (1986 trans am) if a newb like me can do it,anyone can

I was interested on how you figured the pushrod length. I've got a 400 Ford that I'm putting aluminum heads(3V) on a standard 400 Ford. Also a new roller cam and new roller rockers. I have an adjustable pushrod but am curious on how you get lash, etc correct. Is a few thousandths ok? +/-. Thank you Sir.

You probably already did the video but am interested in the exact same video for my Mark IV stock bore 454 for a complete rebuild and a favorable gas friendly with this power setup like this video shows.

So I think one of the most important steps I needed to see was how to actually trim the button , can you PLEASE do a short video on trimming the ADJUSTABLE button not the nylon plastic one. This trimming procedure is what is keeping me from going retro roller cam. I don’t really want to go flat tappet due to all the issues.

10-1=91/93 9-1=88/89 Aluminum heads 10-1=105/110 9-1=91/93 iron heads I would never trust iron and never use less octane do the math forsure

I have a “crappy stock 350" in my 85 GMC pickup. Anxious to see these results, would really like to put some less crappy parts onto my crappy tree-fiddy. And maybe slow down some of the oil that leaks all over the place.

I have 2 350s with 4bolt mains that i need to get built

Hi, just found your channel. I haven’t been around older (pre electronic) engines in many decades. Last year for my retirement I bought a 1963 Chevy Nova SS similar to the one I had back in high school. This one has a 350 with a 350th transmission. I don’t know much about the engine (I bought it at an estate sale) the couple selling it said it was her uncle’s and they didn’t know much about it, or what her uncle had done to it. It is “back halfed” and tubbed. It has GM Performance aluminum heads, headers, MSD ignition, fuel cell in the trunk, B&M shifter. My question is only knowing very little about the engine and nothing about the internals, what gas do you recommend using, unleaded or leaded?

1is this the wyotech masters degree?

that cover would work fine for a engine with a 7 1/4 balancer, but on my 400 sbc it has a 8 inch balancer and you can't use a standard timing pointer you need one of the billet one's and not sure which ones. any ideas?