Fun build i wouldn't be too disappointed, this demonstrates the value in dyno tuning to smooth out the delivery

Great content! I always enjoy your videos. I have been a diy mechanic for over 30 years and have never dyno tested anything I have built. This really puts it into a realistic perspective as to what to expect from a similar combo. I never tell anyone how much horsepower I expect an engine I build will make bc there are just too many factors that can affect the outcome.

Nice build and a positive outcome. For the investment pretty good results. I am impressed. Nice explanation on the dyno sheets by Darell. Thanks for sharing. Take care, Ed.

I'm liking this series, very well done. A lot of things have to go right to have a good running reliable engine.

My DD-5 was way high on TQ. I changed the cam to ICL 108° and switched from Large tube to Small tube headers: 356hp @5000 423tq @2500 ***Highest HP and highest HP/TQ Average I had to change the ICL to 111°

Awesome video series! Enjoyed and learned something from every video! Thanks

I put basically the same set up in my 1983 chevy c20 truck project. Same cam and all. Lol. I made 350 as well with the ported stock heads. So I'm happy to see the same results. I wish I could share pictures in your comments. Nice build Allen. Looks an sounds great !!!

Good real world video enjoy the fact that you don't hide things and most times heads will seal up better after run in most shops now days won't lap valves after valve job . Keep up the real work .

great series, I have to make sure I watch all10 vids. Cheers from Calgary.

350hp/400tq fresh SBC for $1600 bucks is a good deal.

Thanks ,learned alot from this video, good info, my son and I built a similar engine, the only difference is we tore it down again and put new flat top pistons rods ARP,bolts they came with the rods, and new aftermarket cast vortec heads and a 1102 classic cam, 1.6 roller tip rockers. We have not dyno the motor hope to this or next summer. We are in eastern ont. Orleans area,

Looking forward to the next one.

We built a 355 sbc with set of flotek heads , flat tappet hydraulic cam stock cast bottom end and made really good power and torque for 1600 bucks . This was a great video to show what you can do in a low dollar build.

Awesome content. Thanks everybody

Thanks to you and your team for the hard work and info. I might want to hire Daryl some day to test an engine for me too. The thing about the exhaust flow numbers was interesting, I wonder if a slightly different rocker ratio would work on the exhaust valves? Maybe it would be interesting to try that if you retest this engine after you do the leak down repair?

I knew it was going to make a good bit of torque from down low!! I could hear it in the other short!! This is not bad at all!

300 h.p. at 4000 rpm with 50 more and good torque also. The rings are sealing up the friction in the motor will lessen a little with miles and when you fix the leaky valves it gonna get the 375. And Nice idle drive ability engine. Good video thanks.

Not bad, good work guys, should be a really nice street engine.👍

Great video though! I love it when people do real diy builds! Builds using oem iron heads are much more interesting to me becouse thats my caliber. Thats what i relate to because thats what my builds are like. This is the best! The only way it would have been more relatable for me is if it was the same, but with a ford FE. Thats what im workiin with in my shop.

You can change the spring in the oil pump to lower the oil pressure and if bearing clearance is too tight, use bearings that have .001" extra clearance, perfect bearing clearance for small block should be .002" on rods and .0025" on mains.

Very comprehensive garrage Build & Dyno test Results on this 350 Chevy.....The unfortunate High Leak-Down cylinder Issues is Why I like to Leak-Down test all heads Before Engine Assembly by Clamping a 1/2" thick Sealing Plate (with appropriate Gasket or rubber O-ring) to Each cylinder head Deck Combustion Chamber & performing Leak-Down test to catch All cylinder head & valve job Leakage Before Engine Assembly.....This way Each cylinders Total assembled Leak-Down # can be Identified & Evaluated to Valve job Leakage or Piston ring/Bore Sealing Seperate categories.....

Great budget 350 build thanks a ton. This is great.

Great work.....

That’s cool thanks man !!

Very interesting. Good to see also what bad leak down test can produce. Maybe some of the leak down is due to the rings not being broke in? But I know from experience that one can get bad valve job even from an experienced machinist. In my case the seats cut beautifully but he was off by maybe a degree on the valve lean. So it looks fine but when shining a light in the port its obvious that the valve seat is canted in relation to the valve. He dont normally vacuum test but go by look, sound etc. And in a case like this vacuum would show anything since in would draw the valve shut/sealed. Might have sealed up fine in the engine but would have worn out the valve guides for sure. And since one pay for excellence ist whats expected. And the head porter/machinist was dismayed and wanted to fix it. Everyone can make mistakes. So one need to check and check again it would seem.

Hope you do a video on what got messed up on the heads, makes you wonder just how good the whole valve job was, could be power in getting some decent seats and angles cut, back cut intake valves ? Reduce exhaust duration to make more power, that'd be a first, fuel out the exhaust, well yer, the exhaust valves aren't sealing.

Oh! Allen, I forgot to add that I believe I have the right combination to make my car run as good as it does, 60 ft. times are 1.20 et.

What does the engine sound like while it is cranking, can you hear cylinders low on pressure when you get the valves sealed up you might try 1.6 rockers, but only on the intake side. I've usually found a substantial gain on the average.

Yep, no way a "500"cfm two-barrel carb is going to make as much power as a 600cfm four-barrel, even if the engine is "claiming" it's only using "500"cfm. Great video, thanks for sharing!

I have been following along while I build my 350. Is it possible to turn the engine by hand and check lifter rotation? Maybe a video. Thanks

Good enough to burn some tires and have some fun with around town, especially if hooked up to a 4 speed!

Bought a 92 bbc with peanut ports spun it over till we hit compression it sat a few more day went to turn it over again and it still had good compression

Am I missing something here on your price list at 27:01 on the video? I don’t see the new piston and rod price on it. Video #1 you said they ran $540.00 US, just wondering. Thanks

You will probably see less leak down now that the motor has been run. Curious to see.

That's a cheap investment for what your doing to get the power you are happy with. If I build an engine for someone I tell them approximate how much HP they can expect out of it. It all depends on what parts are put in it. There is a few variables... My BBC is a 468" engine, strictly a race car engine. 12.3 comp. Solid roller cam, SV1 carb, 1150cfm, BB-2 Brodix heads, 310 cc. Single carb one barrel. The parts are new, but they are over 30 yrs. old. Makes good HP, 800+. It makes 1.7 HP per cubic inch. It's fast for what it is. 66 Chevelle tune chassis and is light, 2,370 lbs. with driver. 5.40's et. in 1/8 th mile at over 125mph. And 8.60's et at 155mph in the 1/4 mile. I have a big engine Iam building that puts out around 1,300 HP on alcohol methenal, with 15:.1 compression with flattop Pistons. Power range on cam is 4,000-8,500 rpm.

Nice what camshaft using what lobe separation and degree at top dead center i learn stay awy 106 center sound 106 lobe separation know good own street I use 112 are 110 are 108 lobe separation make bigger difference

I dont remember? Did u guys build the heads urself? I guess im wondering why the exhoust valves were leaking? It happens i know. But did u have a shop cut the seats or did u guys do them urself with stones?

Nice❤ what camshaft you are using this engine?

Allen what lobe centers did you install the cam on?

At what rpm did the 2bbl carb start to loose power over the 4bbl?

I would like to see the same sort of build on a 351 cleveland as a comparison to a 350 chev

My guess on the 2 barrel was 30hp and 20tq down. Strange it lost more torque than horsepower. I've seen 550+hp 355s lose 70+hp with a 2 barrel. Should have tried a 750 doublepumper and a 750 3310 vacuum secondary carb also. Might have picked up a few numbers. 350 LT-1 came stock with a 780 vacuum secondary 4150 carb. They were rated at 360hp in the Z-28 & 370hp in the Vette. They actually made in the 350+hp range bone stock on a dyno with headers.

Good evening great job on the build I also am doing the same motor and have been trying to find your list of parts you used. I have the same pistons, hardened tappets, and would like to copy what you did mine is a Dec 1969 build 4 bolt main CRE any way, were could I find your build list I have all the parts except the cam Thank you for putting up the videos

Can you share the part numbers for each product you bought for this build please? I'm currently in the same boat with similar budget and would like to go this route. I would really appreciate it! I saw your first episode of this series where you put the sheet but it didnt have the part numbers listed.

Just made a pull (what were the numbers?)how can we tel WHAT your increases if you don't tell.

30 minutes of talk to get 5 minutes of info

That's a Great Deal! Can you build one for me?😊

What is a good fuel to air ratio number?

Nice test but a little disappointing on power .... Dyno cell did not look like it has a lot of exhaust room but a muffler might have helped and I assume the engine will be run with full exhaust system in the car..... If you do pull the heads look for fuel wash in the chamber .... With unknown port work that funny low rpm dip you got could be from fuel dropout .... With that camshaft and what you saw at peak a 1.5 rocker on the exhaust side only would probably help ..... Also flow cfm on the hat is not the same cfm as a carb measured with a pressure drop though your carb size should be ok ... Did you run a spacer? 1 inch open might help peak

There was a day not so far in the past 1 HP per CI was a respectable number... Regardless of it not hitting the goal with today's KZfaq ant boosted everything so many young folks think you need a minimum of 600hp to have a "fast" vehical but in reality with good gears, decent chassis on the lighter side like a Camaro, nova, g body s-10 and well sorted transmission setup 350hp/400ftbs will give you a pretty rowdy ride, it's plenty of power to blaze the tires off , and a lively 0 to 60. Look at how legendary the old 5.0 mustang GTs were everyone thought they were one of the hottest things on the street well they were in the low 3000lb area and had 225 net HP! Gross was 260ish I think that's almost a 100hp less than this engine. And people were dipping into the 13s with the top form of the fox mustang GTs. No your not going to hang with hellcats on the turnpike but who cares. The only thing I would have done differently with this engine is I would have gone a bit larger on the cam like something in the 230° area and .480" lift I would stick with DV's ICL rule of thumb, and I would have gone with a better intake basically a high rise dual plane, the EPS is like a factory replacement type like the standard performer. At least go the performer rpm standard or air gap doesn't matter air gap if there's a couple extra bucks available, with those there's no real loss down low and noticable gains up top on most every warmed over engine. But hey that's just me I'm not saying anything was wrong per se it's just what I would do. And with an engine like this if built right would go for years reliably you could easily daily it and get half way decent fuel economy like mid teens if tuned right. If you want a cool daily commuter that is actually pretty fast feeling this is a great engine setup.

9 months later you're lucky to find a shortblock for 1600

I wouldn't be ashamed of 400lbs of torque from a stock 350. I'd be happy as a pig in slop with the money for power results. Yes, 1000hp is nice but, how long will it live ondy street and how much does it cost. A torquestorm blower would be nice tho

relationship to air fuel and making power from perfect 14 to 1 and down vs wasting gas and stinking the parking lot up ?

A set of bone yard vortec ported heads would put it close to 400. Casting 906

Nice work Darrel Watters! Next time make him sit on a chevrolet chair!

No new bore, no new pistons, what does anyone expect. If most of the problem is with leaky valves that is much easier than taking apart the whole motor. I have just had a nightmare with a motor that idles smooth but as soon as load backfires. I now know inside out a Quadrajet. The problem was bad wires that are not old and 8.5mm, When I put the ohm meter to them I found dead wires. It is all logic and taking analysis one thing at a time in the elimination process when you do not know what the problem really is.

Dyno testing is a base to start with Allen...

1hp per cu-in on old style iron heads is still respectable.

I know it’s costs a lot money but it would be nice to see what engine does with hood leak down. Information sake.

Why does the budget price change every video 😂

There is more power in that engine, if you balance fuel A and fuel B. Your dyno guy should know that. Tune the carb so Fuel A and Fuel B read the same, you will be amazed at the power gains.

Would you consider doing a video on the small block chevy 302?

To bad we couldnt make those numbers with a ford 302 for $1600…….350hp 5.0 is well over $5k……im a chevy guy myself but my teenage son recently gotta ‘67 mustang 289 coupe…..i picked up a 302 roller motor out of an OJ bronco to build with him for when he is ready to move up from the tired 200hp 289……..im hoping for close to 300hp with the 302…….i tried to convince him to get a GM product cause i have tons of LS stuff on hand but he was set on a ford🤮🤮🤮

Looking at the dyno sheet VE numbers are wrong ...did you have the wrong engine cid punched into the software? VE on that engine should be in the 80s

You always get more low end torque with longer collectors...

350hp/400tq is nothing to be ashamed of especially with iron heads.

You can get 400 plus HP from a vortec 350, with the correct cam, intake, and headers. Any day of the week. Plenty of information, and videos out there to prove it.

You're still making >1 Hp per cube inch so not too bad considering the modest Build Budget.....Wish youall would've Killed a good Leak-Down Cylinder & Measured Power drop & Compared to one of the Bad Leak-Down cylinder to Determine Exactly how Much the Leaking Valve cylinder is Actually Down on Hp if any Significant.....Some Leaking Valve Cylinders produce Amazing Good normal dyno Hp.....As is, the motor seems to be Producing about Average power Results for a Typical DIY garrage Build.....

Young buck seems irritated

i don't have a computer to do stuff but i do know what the car weighs and how long of a road it needs to get up to 65mph... 250lbft average between first and second gear 4100lb 160 meters, 350lbft split on first gear and "deceleration torque" 460lbft to stall the motor down from 5k to 2000rpm thru the converter... "things that broke" not always a dyno to know 🥸 nothing but HP calculated on total fuel flow? 360hp for a 4.6 modular ford with 365'000km on it 🤔 "😶‍🌫...😴🐑" 23 gallons an hour 😵‍💫 fuel burn in time of the 160 meters corrected for elevation... 92% efficient at sea level. computer just does the same number calculations without a pen and paper "printer" 😅 4300lb to 65mph in 100 yards (HP to other data), the OEM equipment took 370 yards to get up to 65mph and that was ratted 205hp 275lbft. (not too many took physics in school, but one said 8 times the power to go twice "half", not even close to being accurate? hmm)

Oh! Allen, I forgot to add that I believe I have the right combination to make my car run as good as it does, 60 ft. times are 1.20 et.