Nice motor! AG I put it at about 450 HP .Should drive real nice..

Like the idea of running pump gas. A lot of guys in that class making to much power and burning the tires off. Definitely have a great driver there and look forward to seeing him run. Thanks for all the videos Al

To much torque and it needs more HP. Consider a sbc 377(400 block with a sbc 350 crank)next time or a sbc 400 block with a 327 crank for a very high revving around 350 cubes. With the 327 crank build you can run 13:1 compression on premium pump gas without detonation. You need to use a 6.350" rod to pull that off. The extra dwell time at TDC reduces the chances of detonation. Refer to the 1997 HRM article "The Small Block 350 Chevrolet should of made" will explain the short stroke long rod high compression with pump gas theory. Adjust it for a race engine that you want RPMs out of it and it should make more than enough power with the right combination of parts bolted to it. The engine in the article made 412 HP and 435 lb ft of torque with a very mild roller cam. It made over 400 lbs ft from 2,800 RPM to over 5,000 RPM. I'll check that and correct it if I'm remembering it wrong. Also in all for 350 cubes that engine did fantastic, something the factory should of made it. Throw a set of good flowing aluminum heads on that 350 with a solid roller cam and high rise aluminum single plane intake and you'll never miss that extra 56 cubic inches. Make that thing rev to 8,500 like guys from your generation claimed that solid lifter sbc 327 could rev to. With a 2,500 lb car, you really don't need 500 lb ft of torque. RPM and HP is what you really need, especially with a 4 speed. 500 lb ft of torque on the street in a full weight 4,000 lb street car then absolutely 500 of those is just right.

400 inch Chevy engines seem to be quite popular now. 1. are they hard to find and expensive now vs a 350? 2. is this a 2 bolt or 4 bolt main block?

I like the approach to a more reliable engine build. Me and my Dad used to go watch the dirt track racing behind my dads convenience store that he owned in Wewahitchka Florida. Wewahitchka is about 30 miles from Panama City, Florida. The track was a 5/8th mile track. I had a blast going to the races with my dad. Late Models, Sprint car, and all the other classes would come. My favorite class was Super Street because the cars still retain the factory body, and they were fast. At least to me, they were fast..lol. I know you probably haven't heard of Wewahitchka Florida. Man, that was fun times, and it was about 30 years ago. Time flies....Anyways, I got into drag racing, but I loved watching the dirt track racing. That was great memories with my dad. May he rest in peace. Great memories

does a dual idler timing gear drive rob more horsepower than a double roller chain?

Don’t forget the track updates!

My buddy does that circle track racing and he has an engine in his car it’s $45,000 all brodix from top to bottom

Hey Allen, good video man I hope your engine does great on the dyno and yeah I didn't particularly like the cam combination and all that personally but you know what's really important is you're getting to do this with your son and like you said it's just a thing because if you don't like it you can change it Good luck buddy hope it does well

I've done a (cam) timing sweep on my personal 406 Chev, from 6 degrees advanced to 4 degrees retarded, every time I retarded the cam I traded torque for horsepower, but it wasn't 1 for 1, however it did do a fine job of improving the peak in terms of carrying power farther, essentially creating a flat horsepower curve from 7000 to 7600. (where I stopped the pulls) The change also took my compression test numbers from 220 PSI down to about 180 PSI.

I can't recall a distributor ever making better numbers over a different one, if I'm swapping ignitions on the dyno it's because it's misfiring.

A Distributor distributes fire where it's supposed to go. There is no need to spend money on an expensive distributor. MSD 6 AL Will take care of everything once it's given the command.

Going to be great to follow this build, hopefully you hit your goal with another satisfied customer!

finally showing some skin sexy man 🤩😍😍

My buddy has that Amazon HEI distributor so far it has been relatively reliable but it needed a recurve springs very heavy that comes with it

At first i thought you were building a boat engine when i saw the reversed headers. I am not really a believer in the Street\Strip engine combinations. In my opinion, what works great for racing, makes for a rough driving street engine. on the street you are not running 4000-6500 RPMs. cams that work in that RPM range and make the most power, don't perform well below 2500 RPM. and the inverse is true as well. for the street you need a smoother idle and vacuum to run power breaks. for a street engine i don't like cams more than 230 degrees at @.050. in a 350, depending on the displacement you can go bigger, for example in a baby big block like a 396/402 you can get away with around 240 @.050. the bigger the displacement the more cam you can run without effecting its street manners. for a 454 you can go to around 250 @.050 and still have it idle of if you use a wide lobe separation angle. like 112 or 114. however, in a race engine, you want peak torque and peak horsepower to be closer to each other so when you shift at peak power, it drops down in to peak torque and that carries the car back up to peak power faster. the wider the spread between peak torque and peak power the long it takes to get back to peak power. also 4000+RPM is hard on a hydraulic cam and valve train components. for me it all begins with compression ratio and the type of fuel being used. if the class has a specific compression ration limit, or you are required to run pump gas, like 92 octane. then those are factors you have to account for in the build. you should always build to the most compression ratio the class will allow. but increasing compression ratio has a diminishing return as you go higher. example you will make more horsepower and torque from going from 8:1 to 9:1. than you will make going from 9:1 to 10:1. the power increase is not linear. the power you get from going from 12.5:1 to 14:1 is minimal. Bottom line is, if the racing class allows 12.5:1. then the is no reason not to build it at 12.5:1. then match your cam, heads and intake to work with that compression in mind. anything else is just leaving power on the table. for me building a street engine is about how well it will cruise and well it behaves at Idle, from off idle to cruise and then from cruise to WOT. if it stubbles spits at edlem, and in the off idle transition, it's going to be miserable to drive, and if it runs poorly at low and mid throttle conditions, then it will also suck to drive. and it should still make power at WOT. but it will never be as powerful at WOT as a dedicated race engine built to the specs of the racing class. To me a Race motor is a dedicate engine built to the rule book with only one goal in mind and that is winning races. making compromises to a race engine to make it run on the street only kills power and loses races. I don't know the specs of the class its running, but if 12.5:1 was allowed, that would be my target compression, forget the pump gas, then a solid roller cam in the [email protected] and a really tight LSA in the 104-106 range.

? have you done a vid. on aluminum heads on tha sbc 400” “steam holes” if so could you hook us up to tha title an if not would you do one for us ?

You could have softened the torque by reducing the overlap 10-degrees and delaying the intake closing 20-degrees (increase the duration 10-degrees), the trouble with doing this on a budget build is that you'd want a rev limiter to stay safe with the short-block. Those C3 Vettes have such a great stingray look!! I actually prefer the painted bumpers on that body-style. Please complete the story with a running video of the vette!!! Love the build, love the videos!

That 1105 is the junkiest cam ever! No torque.. Use the 12 prefix instead of the 11 's . Or even the 17 prefix would be better than the 11. Those 12 prefix cams are a 4/7 swap but mainly they have good ramp rates and the correct LSA. Thanks

Hoping you do a little testing with restrictor plates.!!!

As always a very fine example of intellect, integrity that results in tremendous leadership. I’m a growing fan of this man’s efforts. They’re becoming more of a sermon for myself. Working in the performance engine machine and building industry all o my adult life these type of mindsets are most often the common denominator towards success. I liken them to the John Woodens of the world. Humility towards the basic fundamentals will garner a calm collective approach to success. I’m thankful for these reminders most of all.

Hey, Alan. I always find your posts interesting and informative. I've built dual-duty engines meaning street and race and have had the same engine perform successfully under both conditions. Running 11:1 compression on 93 octane pump gas without fuel additives. In general terms, the keys were the use of aluminum heads usually with softened combustion chambers, an appropriate camshaft degreed for the application and, slightly limited total advance. Well over 500 H.P. was attained with humble Windsor Small Block Fords I've built in this manner. I'm a Ford Guy and my roots were in Drag Racing but it does interest me to hear you speak mainly on G.M. Engines and Oval Track Racing. I enjoy hearing of the differences and similarities to what I've had the most experience with. One other quick note. I REALLY ENJOYED Your post from a couple of weeks ago referencing Your History with the Blue '68 Z/28 so often seen in the background of Your Videos. Not to self-promote by any means, a few days ago I commented on that video and shared with you a similar parallel story of a Z/28 and how My Ford and racing passion came to be and how it evolved. Thank You again, for Your posts!

Thanks for sharing! If the cam ICL is on a 110, I'm curious what the LSA is. Also on the 302 DZ, make sure you let us know the cam you ordered for that project. The suspense is killing me lol!

Nice,Good one! I hope to see vid of the boys car running on the track some day like the video of your car on the street.(that was an awesome video of yours Alan)👍🏻

Excellent video. Your son's engine sounds very healthy. Should make for an exciting ride in his 2500 lb race car. Looking forward to seeing the follow-on dyno video.

E85 pump gas high compression engine allowed in dirt track racing?

I think I missed it, but is this Dirt track or Asphalt? On Dirt in Central NY, these Dirt guys are turning into the corner, momentarily half throttle and then Right back in the gas... the guys that coast into the corners and wait until after the apex before full throttle go backward real fast here. The asphalt guys, coast into the corners and gently roll into the throttle... coming from the dirt world, asphalt racing is a bit boring... but, on the bright side, the asphalt cars are nice to work on because they're always clean. 😂 I'd love to have a race motor that has 500+hp and 500+ ft-lbs on pump gas. We run a restricted class, 350-406cid on a 500cfm 2bbl and a dual plane intake. The strong motors/teams are making 430-460hp

The issue I see with this weighted chart method is you have a very limited selection of cam choices listed. What if none of those is the best choice? I'd be more concerned with giving the engine what IT wants or requires in order to perform in the expected RPM range instead of making that a lesser concern. How much overlap will produce the performance and sound you want without making the car a turd or less fun to drive? How much overlap beyond that is wasted power, torque and drivability? Why not use the Dynomation program Bill has as part of the decision? At what tappet lift was advertised duration of the Duntov cam measured .004"? .006"?, other? That would be critical in comparing the cams. Considering roller vs flat tappet, how much spring pressure is required with the solid roller cam and how much spring pressure are you willing to have beat on the valve seats under extended use? Obviously, the valves and other valvetrain components have to be up to task. I'd certainly question the rocker arm choice with the solid roller and increased spring pressure.

yeah lets put a 600 lift cam in and use weaker than stock valve springs from car quest cause we heard they use corvette valve springs! dumb meets dumber

Beautiful cars

Whats the name of the Dyno shop ? I forgot. I have a 355 never started or dyno yet.

What an awesome camaro. Thanks for the great video. The color looks great

The best thing a new builder can do is get DYNOSIM6, I got it and it helped me leaps and bounds in design and UNDERSTANDING what I was doing.

Thanks for sharing! Always enjoy!! 500 would work in my Ole 4wd !!

Tech question? My mild sbc406: Stock crank, stock rods, cast flat tops, Comp 270H straight up, stock home ported crappy 493 heads with screw in studs, 1.5 roller tipped rockers, Weiand 7546 single plane w/divider plate, Holley 3310 750vac, TH350/TCI Breakaway, 3.25:1 9"/Yukon Dura Trak in a '54 F100. Initial timing? Total timing? Tips? Suggestions? HP estimate? TIA. It runs good, but really stinky @ idle.

Before putting sealant on the china wall, set the intake manifold in place and observe the gap. Youd of course want the intake gaskets set in place when doing it. Seeing the actual gap would prevent guys from putting on an excessive bead of silicone. What type of gasket do you use on the oil drain plug. Ive just used the blue or green plastic ones, but they feel cheap. I had one crack once, then started replacing it every oil change.

Time is an important factor also.... Take your time, stay focused, don't rush, do the right sequence. As of now, sealing up my sbc builds take about 3-5 days of work.... That's when I started processing with this issue.

I almost forgot. An old bloke years ago, asked me why his Clevland would not start? I said, " every 353849 idiot knows Clevo's turn anti clockwise. The dissys, that is. He left without another word. A grunt was my thanks. Cheers.

Nice start up. I never thought to use hot plugs. I have used cold ones, and had the carb safe rich and I am surprised it ran. I had to tear the thing down, within 30 km and the chambers and plugs were soot! Safe rich, that's a bit rough! So it gets warm up North for a few days? Nice street and garden.

Hey never used arp bolts or products but all of the other manufacturers recommend that you replace the bolts every rebuild so basically 1 time than toss them and buy new ones But you said about the secret sauce and oil was the same after 7 uses so I think it's OK to reuse them more times by what you said..... AND I know the crank and head bolts do stretch is that right

It’s not too hard to find NOS GM SBC camshafts on many different sites. Why not find a true 30/30 Duntov cam? If the goal is to get that original sound and keep the engine close to original then use the real deal. If the lift isn’t enough for the heads, use a higher ratio rocker. There are many options when it comes to the lifters, I’m sure you know of a good brand with a hardened foot. I’m excited to see what the final decision is!

I hate leaks 😂 my old Corvette has a new block all new silicon gaskets and still drips 😂 my 2003 nissan 350Z has zero on original gaskets 😂

Tony's and 302 small blocks go together like peas and carrots. I've had a couple and about to build another one soon. Great video, thanks!

I think rope seals are not compatible with full synthetic oil and the detergents wash the graphite out and then leak. I think they were good on low rpm engines of 1940 and 50s that used non detergent like my dad's old 1954 Chevy Bel Air 235 cu in straight six

Looks and sounds great! What is the motor in it?

Hello Allen good to see this. I learned from this thank you. I remember when I first bought my 1976 firebird project car. It leaked so bad not only oil but everything else. I named it lake Pontiac because it left a puddle in my carport. Its down to a small drip now and still battling the rear main seal.

I really didn’t know much about Pontiac engines when I got the 400 TransAm I just liked the car so I got it, someone told me I need to switch to a big block Chevy to get real power, not sure if I want to do it

Love your Pontiac video’s! I have a TransAm with a 400 in it runs strong but I want more power thinking about switching to a 455 Pontiac

Good video

Thank you for your channel. You do a great job!