Three suggestions. When wrapping a chain to prevent vertical split, wrap as many times as you have chain, instead of a single loop. This reduces the chances of snapping the chain. Plunge cut should be perpendicular to the tree, rather than parallel to the ground. Leave the hinge wider on the side you want to pull the tree toward, as it falls. Could have missed the maple tree.

Well explained - and pleased that you gave the credit Terry Hale deserves at the end - he has a mastery of theory, clarity of expression and dry wit that are an unmatched combination. Thank You.

Terry Hale does excellent, detailed videos and has a wealth of practical knowledge, not funny or quirky at all, but very concise and well explained concepts and a lot of different scenarios... definitely a good source of info.

I log in Michigan everyday. Buckin billy Ray on KZfaq best I've ever seen hands down.

Thanks for the link. Great idea about using the chain, will add that to my carry-all kit! A person can never learn too much! We hope you and Melissa had a fun Valentine's Day!✌🏻️

some good advice, thank you. that undercut hinge made me nervous the whole time though! glad everything went okay

Terry HALE is a fabulous teacher. As much as I enjoy your company, and as much as you have taught me, this is the biggest boon. Thanks!!!

Good point about cutting above the notch. Never heard the term "barber chair." Probably a regional term. I started out "girdling" timber about 1971. Most people today have never heard of that. Enjoy the videos. I have used a vehicle or winch to pull a tree a certain direction, just enough to fall away from objects. So many variables involved. It is easy to criticize from a computer but quite another to do the job. You did fine.

Another great video! Put the chain around the tree with the hook on one side and hook the tractor to the other side of the tree. When you pull it allows the tree to twist off the base! Great tactic i have been using lately to overcome these.

Thanks for the video Mike. Good idea about the chain or strap...I've never done that, but will the next time. I have only used the bore cut method for the first time last year. It worked fine. I was from the city 30 years ago and had never cut down trees. When I bought a Husky chainsaw back then (still using it ), the safety instructional manual gave directions to take down leaners, and I have used that method for years very succesfully. They advise to make a 'double notch' sort of intersecting each other with the point facing the direction you want to fall the tree. Then do your felling cut (an inch or so above bottom of hinge) The manual related that doing this 'double hinge' will allow the tree to start falling 'slowly' to give you time to get out of the way. I found this to be true every time. I wonder if anyone else out there has used this method? If so, please comment. Perhaps the bore method is better.??? I also wonder Mike, if you had left a little more hinge on the far side and not much on your side, if the tree would have twisted right missing the maple? I have used this method and found it can really help changing a trees desired direction. Keep up the videos and keep safe. And like Columbo..."just one more thing sir!"" You said the first thing you do is clear an escape route. That's the second thing I do, and the first is to say a prayer for safety. God Bless!

First couple were head scratchers, but after 9 hurricanes and thousands of these, 30 yrs, just another tree, but they are way more fun 60 ft up, with a stihl 066 in your hand, over a shed, and a, fence, and a pool near by.

Love it Mike. Way to admit your own shortcomings and refer to someone who you believe gives great advice. That's why I like you so much and have such respect for you. God bless

Thanks Mike for a step by step explanation of a bore cut, sometimes just getting the basic info is good to have before getting real technical. Your vid came up when i typed in bore cut, I knew I came to the right place.

You went home with same number of holes you started with, so that is a absolute win! Good information, thanks for sharing. God bless

My golden rule is respected all leans tree with respect Be safe all time Look a round you and that's all saved For all your workers equipment Thanks From Woody Cut South Africa 🇿🇦

Great video bro. Thanks for sharing. Lol. Was just about to go and cut a path in my 80 acres, when I ran across this presentation. I'm glad I did. Blessings.

Glad you went with the plung cut and trigger method. I use that method even with straight trees. The fast fall helps the tree get through the tree canopy snags. I liked the chain around the tree. Food for thought leave your hinge thicker on the side you want it to fall.

Good video Mr. Morgan. I have cut thousands of trees over the last 30 years in an almost identical manner as you demonstrated save one detail. I never thought to put a chain around the trunk. The instant I saw you do it I thought 'Holy Cow! Why didn't I ever think of that? It's so obvious!" Thank you for the video and the new pointer.

I am not a tree professional but better than most pros, you too. If I want to drop any dangerous tree orientation to prevent barber chair and back kick, I would use a rope with a wrench to pull the tree in the drop direction. I would consider the height of the cutting position on the tree. To drop a leaning tree like this, there are two drop directions, front drop or side drop depending on the drop space. You provided good information even better than any tree pros. Thanks.

I just cut a leaner down tonight. I wish I would of seen this before. I did my notch and back cut above. But I've never done a plunge cut. Chain idea was nice too.

worked at it a long time 40 years with my grandfather and great grandfather and father

Appreciate you taking the time to help with my thoughts on this and humble enough to share Terry... Thanks

Nice job explaining the steps in bringing down that tree, Thanks!

A little tip, on trees that have a thick bark (big Ash) or just to be certain that the backstrap area is solid I take a vertical slice of the bark off of the tree where my release cut will be. This lets me see exactly how much holding wood there is as I cut out to the backstrap. I release the backstrap with a cut from the tip of the bar (standing back) at a point just below the bore cut, this is so the saw won't catch on the falling tree and go for a flip in the air. Good link , I have watched all his videos.

Mike, having found your channel last evening and enjoying it very much, I happened on this one today and I must say that you did a very good job bring up some very important points. As a saw instructor for wildland sawers, I can say there will always be the comments that include too much hinge, plunge cut too high or low, too much wood left in the trigger (which is easy to realize) when making your plunge cut and the trigger fails prematurely. Thanks again for pointing out some very important points in your video. My only comment would be to keep your notch as clean as possible and be careful with overcutting it, it can change the entire dynamic of how the tree performs. Keep the videos coming

Calvin in Kuwait dreaming about 6 acre home in Idaho. Love your video's Mike! Great information. Thank You!

I like the chain idea , it gives you an extra bit of protection.

Thanks for sharing. I don't know almost anything about falling trees but for my reference, this procedure has possible improvement: 1) the horizontal front cut itself was way too deep. It had to be much more precise so the miter cut and horizontal cut meet together. 2) falling tree direction maybe could be controlled by somewhat larger hinge on the side we wish it to go more, if tree was healthy. However in this rotten core case that would be real gambling and probably not particularly safe to count on. 3) the chain around the trunk was really a good decision, although with rotten tree there was no guarantee. So the author's comment "run from that tree" is valuable as pure gold. 4) The decision of hinge width, as perfecty explained in video, was a life savior in this case. Generally this example is not exactly the typical falling of a leaner, particularly because of rotten core complication and other tree obstacle.

Thank you for this video, Mike. I lost a very good friend to a barber chair. He was cutting alone, so we’ll never know exactly what happened, but he was an intelligent and experienced woodsman. I know we all have our moments of feeling invincible, but we’re not.

Hi Mike, Personally I think you are off to a very good start. I was waiting to hear about any effort at barber chair prevention. And you did it! If I may suggest... when you take your tractor back there, try this first: take a peavey/cant hook with you. If you have nothing bigger than the LogOX then take that. Can you extend the length of the LogOX for more leverage? I just want to suggest trying to roll the tree out of the crown of the tree it fell into. So often the falling tree hits off center. If it hit a bit to the right, stand on the left. Put your tool on it and lift. Try to roll it to the right. If the description shows it should roll to the left, then stand on the right. This is what many of us do around here. If this doesn't work or seems too scary, then go for it with the tractor. I just hope you will use a longer chain or cable. If the tree flops around a lot we want it to miss you and your equipment.

A very good video. I live on my 8 acres of woods and have been losing many trees. Mostly oaks, red and white. I also use wood stoves and often cut fallen limbs to start and end the wood burning season. The big stuff for those cold days. Burnt quite a bit when the temps got down to 2 degrees and I have 3 stoves going. So I've run across all different kinds of learns, breaks and hollow trees. You pointed out some things that are stuck in my mind now. I am as safe as possible but how often we forget certain things. I clear an escape route always, sharp saw and the like. When you think you have things planed out anything can happen. Like the time a top dead limb, as I heard it breaking, made me not want to run since I didn't know which way it was going. Had to be a good hundred feet this old dead oak. So I hugged the tree and the 4" x 15 foot limb landed about three feet behind me. SPOOKY! My hard hat would have been like a cardboard box had it hit me. I was lucky this widow maker didn't make me one! I learned a valuable lesson. Now I let those trees trim themselves or fall down own their own. The bark falls off and the top limbs fall down and then I will cut it down and always with a friend or two who can spot me. So you made some very good and important points. My Thanks! I'm tuned in now so I'll stay in touch! Peace and a great spring! DaveyJO in Pa.

Nice to see a video by someone who knows what they are doing for a change. The one thing I might have done in addition would have been a vertical plunge cut to see if there was rot and how bad. If the tree is really rotten you have to nibble away slowly making the undercut to keep from getting pinched. As another commenter said, if you cut the hinge thin or off on the one side as it's starting to go sometimes you can turn them a little extra.

Some wedges in the bore cut might have helped push it where you wanted it to go before you cut the strap. Im amazed at the difference they make.

Thank you for the video. I noticed the roots and wondered if they are also a danger factor. After seeing this I would of walked away. I do not have as much experience as you do. Thank’s.

Fantabulous job. I have a heavy leaner about 18"-20" diameter at chest height 100' ish tall with a rotted spot at ground level to about 18" high and 16" wide. Fortunately the direction of fall won't hurt anything if it goes on it's own. Cut level sounds solid but the barber chair is scary. My guess is the rot goes further. I cut down another tree that had about 3" of solid parameter but the inside was completely rotted away. That tree was 23" diameter. Have before and after pictures of it. Rotted trees are scary. The whole thing can come apart like the world trade center taking you with it. Another one had over 30' length of center rot. It split and partially collapsed under it's own weight half way up as it was falling. Here's a arborist trade tip: If the tree looks pregnant somewhere it's probably rotted inside at that point and somewhat above and below that point. Strongly recommend an experienced arborist remove those for ya. You may spend a couple grand but you'll still be alive and unharmed.

I like the chain idea, very smart.

Hey Mike, very informative video. Check out who you was referring too and I have watched lot of his videos several times, always good to keep fresh on what can happen out there. You all keep putting out the good videos, WEEYALL (yes it is a word down here) will keep watching them. Thanks for sharing.

it’s amazing how many professionals watch KZfaq videos about how to cut downs trees and comment negatively. Great video

GOOD safety video and GOD BLESS!

Great idea using the chain. Coincidentally, I could’ve used that this morning! I had a decent sized twisted leaner that had barberchaired about 10’ up. Fell where I wanted, but snarled up some good firewood rounds.

Great video! Good reminder of the center plunge cut before releasing it. Sometimes you can make your hinge wider on the side you want it to turn - it’s a pivot point wherein the tree will twist on the thicker side of your hinge and turn in that direction. It can help to further pinpoint and direct the path of the fell. Another point on a sawmill front - given the stress you mentioned at the beginning of the video on each side of the tree, it makes for a LOUSY saw log that will show its stress by releasing it while sawing lumber. This tree, regardless of the diameter, is best run through the splitter! Keep up the good work guys! 👊🏼

Mike (clap) one of your best videos the chain is a great idea it’s also a safety factor if it barberchairs prematurely and cherry tends to it protects you if the fibers let go at operator level thank you and be safe my son.

I am a million miles away from being any good at felling trees, but the very first one I tried to cut down, I failed to pay any attention to what the wind was doing. It can have a huge impact on where the tree might land. Looks like you had a calm day there. Thanks for all your great vids!

Helpful refreshing honesty dear fellow.

Kudos for the Terry Hale recommendation. He has the best instructional videos I have ever seen. Learned more about technique from him than I did in felling school.

Great job Mike. Felling trees takes time and practice. It's very dangerous. Love the videos

You popped out that piece of wood, and out of my mouth I said out loud man you better clean that up.. The next thing you say I'm going to clean that up... Good Man!

I think you probably saved my life with the advice here. Thank you!

i learned quite a lot here. thanks.

Thanks for making this Video Mike. I watched it and then one you recommended to watch in the link below. Very informative and needed for those who drop trees. I am one of those people and have a leaner that I've been avoiding to cut because of this reason. I have never made a bore cut before but will now practice on other trees with this method until I am comfortable with it. I will then drop that leaner knowing how to proceed. Thanks again Mike. I appreciate your videos.

GREAT VALUABLE SAFETY INFORMATION!!👍👊

Hey, x New Yorker here, from Long Island, my wife and I retired to S Fla in 2015, I have the same tree problems except for one thing, all palm trees on a half-acre of land. By the way, this video was published on our 44th anniversary.

Thanks for this. I am still never cutting down anything like this ever. Saw way too many accidents here on KZfaq lol.

I was really surprised to see you put that chain around the tree. A lot of people don't know that. I was a logger for quite some time and I have ran a saw since I was 13 yrs old. I have ran into a lot of people who really need to learn a few things that think they know well enough. There are just so many things one has to consider before you sink a saw into a tree but for someone like myself it becomes such second nature or more like instinct without much thought. After all these yrs it still amazes me in a way how something like this can become second nature to us. That being said no one is ever too good to get their killing! One word of advice though if I may give it. Any time you are worried about a barber chair you might try a bit longer chain and wrap it multiple times over a decent little span. Make sure it has good hooks and it's not a bad idea to put a load boomer on it. (Make sure it's no wimpy chain also) Also sometimes on your felling cut you can come in a little high but on a sharp angle. That gives you something to help hold the tree from kicking back so fast. It's never a guarantee as I have saw trees do some crazy things but it just might make that difference. Of course this isn't something i'd recommend in certain situations and especially if you plan to use a felling wedge or wedges. As they say we never get too old to learn but seems like you are doing pretty well. Be safe and happy cutting!

Nice example of red danger sawdust from plunge cut. I know of a chainsaw instructor who does a plunge cut on every tree he falls over 6" in diameter. He had one explode on him before & lived to tell the tale & change his SOP

...Mike...thanks for a well explained video on how to cut a "leaner"....I have a big red oak on my property that needs to be cut and it is a leaner....your video gives me the confidence and the safety points to watch out for to get the job done... 🙂

You need to work on lining up the scarf cuts better

I wish we all had the chance to chat about this, or have a "tractor" to help, some of us have been winging it for 26 years...thats life!

Thank you for your video! I’ve been searching for videos on dangerous leaning trees especially the ones that look easy. I have one similar but up top the branches grew 90 degrees from the lean. Initially I thought it would be simple but now I’m not so sure. From your video I realize that you must take all factors into consideration. Thanks again!

Mike, Since watching your videos I got more curious about cutting down trees. I've watch a few videos on tree cutting and consider myself very lucking I never did a lot of tree cutting. when I was younger. This activity would of exposed me to many dangers I was not aware of, thanks.

I have found sharpening every time I fuel increases chain life. The chain states cooler and your day goes faster.

Mike, if you're going to use a tractor,.make it the '55 and a long chain!

Years ago to prevent some trees from barberchareing I would use a wire fencing staple to anker the 3/8 inch wire cable leaving eight inches long for 3/8 inch cable clamps. Then I would wrap nine tunes around the tree than cable clamp the ends together with three clamps! I never had a dangerous tree barberchare on me . The property owner got hurt and had to be rushed to the hospital for surgery. All of those dead trees were of the same species.

Hey Mike! Very good explanation of the dangers of learners! Thanks for pointing me to Terry Hale’s channel. Rather dry delivery but great information! Thanks for sharing!

I know this isn’t a current video but it’s well done! Thanks, Mike!

I have trained as a logger by the swedes and softwoods are so much easier to cut than hardwoods. I like the way you take your time and show folks how to do it right. One thig I could add (others may have already made the comment but here is my 2cents... your hinge controls the direction of the fall when you do your plunge cut make sure you are equally offset from your hinge or it will not fall straight... you hung up on the maple because you lost the far side of your hinge in the plunge cut. You can actually rotate a straight softwood 30 degrees by cutting the hinge on the side away from the direction you want it to turn. So here cutting the hinge on the near side would turn it away from the maple. Great video and I love the idea of the strap to prevent barber chairing (chains and chainsaws don't mix!) and the fact you checked for widow makers (rotten limbs).

The chain is a brilliant idea and I will be doing that from now on.

I have been cutting trees as an arborist for 35 years and have a degree in forestry ‘92 and the red rot is called brown rot by lay terms it has a Latin name of course lol well done

Should mention the Dutchman and how it affects direction of the fall along with the holding wood for the hinge.

ALWAYS have a chain file in your kit to fit your saw. Then you can take 5 minutes and sharpen when you see that your saw is dull.. Better than that , Sharpen your saw with a couple of licks with the file before you go to the woods.

Yes, thank you Mike, for those tips you mentioned I wouldn't have even considered some if those tips like the plunge cut, very good tip to do 🤔👏❤😊

being honest and humble counts a lot ... specially cutting trees Thanks for the tips sr..

Trees are unpredictable, it doesn't always go according to plan..

Excellent video Mike. Funny that you mentioned the saw wasn't as sharp as you believed since I had thought the same thing just a few seconds before that text showed up. Not kicking the chips like I've seen your saws do before. Shows just how easily they can become less sharp even when you are careful to stay out of the dirt. I watched Terry's video, you are right, very instructive. I've bookmarked his KZfaq page for future viewing/reference.

Excellent, excellent demonstration and discussion, especially your comments about discovering a rotten center. The only time I lost a saw to a falling tree was sticking my bar into a large, heavily leaning tree to initiate the bore cut. Soon as the bar tip entered heart rot the saw kerf collapsed pinching my saw. My textbook perfect rear holding strap then immediately ripped down the stump into the top of a large root allowing the tree to fall. As always, I had a clear escape route prepared and safely got out of the way. Not so for my beautiful $700 saw. Before cutting the notch, I suspected that the center was rotten and should have followed your advice to walk away from such trees. Thanks for such a valuable video.

Really good info. The chain is a good idea. Good explanation of why the back cut needs to be a little high. Thanks

Man you need to improve 3 important aspects. 1/ your scarf. You had an overcut on the horizontal. This weakened your hinge in two ways. Firstly the overcut went half way through your vertical holding wood in your hinge. Secondly the tree HAD to pop its hinge as it came over and compressed in the overcut. Get those hinges spotless clean man! 2/ Take more care and accuracy on your bore cut. Make sure you have a perfectly even hinge of appropriate size. If your trying to put language into a heavy leaner of this size you might leave 2" of hinge wood. But that varies infinitely from Tree to Tree, situation to situation. Also cut out more of the bore to your back strap. You will get a faster, cleaner, gentler and more controlled release. If your strap is through the tension wood proper you only need 2" on a tree that size. 3/ release your bored and cut tree by cutting your back strap BELOW your bore. Or else expect to have your saw taken out of your hands one day. Also gives better release properties. Good on you for trying man, but be careful if you havnt had a master cutter teaching you. 🙏👍

i'm sittin here watching and like i was right there with ya,my heart was racing a bit. tree cutting is always dangerous work. we were shown the bore cut method but i never cared for it or used it. retired now so i just watch you guys on youtube. be safe out there, steve

Thanks from Australia, you’re info keeps people alive, don’t stop sharing your knowledge 👍

At 13:15 you said the correct thing about the tree kicking back, that is why I do not notch trees like that. I notch trees going up to where I cut in. It would not have taken very long to cut that tree down, easy tree to cut.

Also consider using a Humboldt notch which puts the notch in a reverse triangle below the hinge instead of in the same plane of the cut. Significantly reduces the risk of the tree kicking back as it falls. In this case it would have also ensured that the base of the tree landed on the ground instead of hanging on the stump when the tree hung up on that other tree.

It may not have gone a s planned, but no one is hurt and the resolution is doable. thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience.

Use your dog sights.. it helps out alot.. and don't be a wimp on the trigger . Any tree is going to fall just watch out for dominoes effect in close timber... forest firefighter here .. 10 year cutting trees down...

Great comment on the wrap of chain above the cut. The excess could have been wrapped around and tightened with a load binder. That technique works well with a good strong rope too, fairly thick 3/4 inch or greater, either nylon braid or manila. It also is a good technique to use if pulling on the tree prior to cutting down. The bore cut works but on smaller diameter trees (8 inch or less) a bore cut can be hard to start properly, so wrapping above the cut is a smart and safe method to use.

I barber chaired the heck out of a 25 inch walnut right next to my house. Second tree I cut down, didn't know the middle had a 10 inch hole. The crack went into the stump and up like 35 feet. The barber chair top part was like 20 feet up. I had to call some real cutters to come pull it down for me because I didn't feel safe. It was only like $300 to have them pull it down so it was well worth it. Cheers

The very first thing I would have done was have someone with me just in case something went wrong.

Missed the height on a hinge on a pine because it was getting dark and a shrub blocked my view some and it started pinching my bar and I ended up having to wedge it to free my saw and roped it the rest of the way. Good lesson on guessing i was back cutting the right height to the hinge.

Excellent video, keep them coming

Just learning. Love that the comments are respectful. Thank you!

I'm a novice, and appreciate your time and knowledge making this video. Thanks a bunch.

Excellent video! I’ve learned a lot!

Good job, worked out pretty good. Only thing id like to say is that I prefer to cut the strap with the tip of my bar, that way I can stand alittle further away. These heavy leaners are some scary stuff

Thank you for this excellent instruction. I have several cherry trees with similar leans that I am about to drop. Really appreciate your help!!

GOOD JOB! no damage done. I personally put a rope in the top, secure it and pull with a come-along 90 degree 18 inches above the ground then my bird, from the bottom-up knock out wedge the backcut from the higher ground side, everyones different but safety always comes first so remember too go slow.

It hit stick because the Dutchman in place. But congrats on your tree fell ! I appreciate your videos 😀

Great video Mike. Although I will probably never run into a tree in this bad of a condition, I was wondering--- what would you do if you did not have tractors to fall back onto? Thanks, Charlie

Good evening. Logger Wade has a channel. Buckin Billy Ray is a good saw man. Learned a couple of ideas from you as well.

Great video I have lots of severe lean trees on my land with potential hang ups going to think twice now before I tackle the big ones start off small to perfect the technique!

Thanks for the tips. Can't be too careful!

I volunteer to maintain a public park that's full of hung-up trees and leaners, so I'm always looking for videos like this one. Thanks for recording, editing, and posting it.